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Member Since: Jan 12, 2009
Last Visit: 6 days ago
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Point Rank: # 811
Total Points: 1,015

61 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1122 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 180 | Page Improvements | Comments 151 | Posts 189 | Stars 403 | Ratings 188
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > ... > Dark Horse (5.10a/b)
By: JMo When: Jan 6, 2018

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Comments: .3 to 4 singles is more than enough. P1 is great plus starting on peacemaker saves barely any gear as you pretty much want singles above p1 anyway. This route is quality but expect quite a higher burl factor than the other sheepshead 10a’s.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > ... > The Tombstone Stripper (5.10-)
By: JMo When: Dec 17, 2017

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Comments: Spoiler alert! Do not read if on sighting!

On p3 a sweet DMM gold offset is nice after you pull the little bulge at the end of the 20’ left angling groove.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > The Sheepshead
By: JMo When: Dec 17, 2017

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Comments: There are 13 routes pitched out in the latest guidebook on the sheepshead. I have only climbed 10 of them and am far short of leading, let alone sending, every pitch. But I have climbed enough of them to feel compelled to say a hearty thank you to those who put in the love, effort, time, and money to create these routes. I have shivered, sweated, whined, hollered, and clawed up this beloved dome enough times to say, whether others like the style or not, that I personally love it. Most days on th... more >>


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 8 - Summit Crags > ... > Swing Set (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Oct 11, 2017

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Comments: I saw the article at the bloc last week and when I took a close look at this route it reminded me how much I enjoyed Bridwell's perspective on this arguably insignificant yet undeniably sublime issue.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 8 - Summit Crags > ... > Swing Set (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Oct 10, 2017

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Comments: Jim Bridwell wrote an article called The Innocent, The Ignorant, and The Insecure. It can be found here: ukclimbing.com/articles/page.p...

"Fair rating of a climb implies a moral obligation, on the part of the climber, to consciously be as accurate as possible. A climber who downrates is stating that he is better than another climber. It is a practice as old as the first war. If a climber says a climb is 5.9 that another climber says is 5.10, then the first climber must... more >>


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 7 - Upper Highway > ... > Rayzors Edge (5.11b/c)
By: JMo When: Aug 5, 2017

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Comments: the slabby crux above the bulge is quite tricky, took me forever to get, and is significantly harder than any move on captain cook to the right. for those of us keeping score.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Volunteer Canyon > South Side > ... > Honey Cwm (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Maybe it was just the company the time and the place, but I followed this route and thought it was other-worldly, with amazing movement and preposterous situations. Dreamlike. Do we think those blocks will stay around a while? I sure hope so. All the stars.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > Mirror Image (5.10)
By: JMo When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: CV- no doubt- Greg is The Man. I just wanted to mention bc I moved down here read this jumped in and had one of the very few truly negative experiences I've had climbing. This way people can read this and know it might be very tricky heady and or dangerous and decide for themselves. I admit I'm soft - you should have seen the 7 pieces I placed after the bolt on Graceland yesterday. But compared to mirror image Graceland is a warm bath.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > Mirror Image (5.10)
By: JMo When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: If you lead this route and don't think it should be rated R, then you are truly a Lemmon climber. Come on, Greg.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > Hi Pro Glow (original line) (5.9+ PG13)
By: JMo When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: if you are jumping on to lipstick it is not the original line, and you are missing out on some fun. red diamond has scores of ways to combine routes. Hi Pro into Lipstick, Glowing Lipstick? is great don't get me wrong, but so is the original line. i'm also curious about sidewinder into mirror image, avoiding the heinously tricky and scant pro of the lower section of mirror image... kind of nice you can use hi pro to TR lipstick or mirror if you don't feel like stepping up. thoug... more >>


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > High Pro Glow (5.9-)
By: JMo When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: Description is wrong. Look at the book. High pro glow is a 9+ that stays right and heads up the big crack at the top of the cliff. I have not had the pleasure of doing it this way b/c we only had the app on the phone with the above description which told me head left onto lipstick. Don't get me wrong- this way is great fun and a great climb on its own- but there is absolutely no reason to lug a 5 for this finish- the description above says a big cam helps at the end -- wrong. A #1, .75, or... more >>


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > ... > Phony Pony (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: Excited to see there is a summit scramble and walk off for this climb.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (Southwest) > ... > Ides of Middlemarch (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: It would be super cool if the description matched the route as it exists and is climbed these days. P1 is a bolted bulge crux that is rated "10a" (presumably this rating is tossed around without overt malicious intent).


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > East Stronghold > Out-of-Towners Dome > Down and Outers (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: 4 pitches and 2-4 all have at least one 10++ move or more. This is a great route! Bring a light rack, we had singles.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > Boneyard
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Great reason to use a grigri too. Then at least one person lives. I'm super glad you both are OK- that rockfall sounded horrifying!


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > In Lightning (5.8)
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: I agree 100% w Christian. Pretty sure if I took a tape measure up there is 15+ feet between bolts on traversing ground in one spot. I love this route. I just wouldn't pretend it lacks spice for the 8 or 9 leader. All 10 leaders and above will find it casual. That is because of the grade not the space between the bolts.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 6 - Mid-Mountain > ... > Admiral Throckmorton (5.9-)
By: JMo When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: So there are two lines over the roof. One left and one right. This one is right. It is a number grade easier than the one to the left according to MP. Climb them both and tell me these numbers have anything to do with reality.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 3 - Windy Point East > ... > The Lady Don't Mind (5.8)
By: JMo When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Climber's left isn't it?


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 4 - Windy Point West > ... > Old Man (5.9)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Indeed at jtree this would get a ton of attention. Bring lots of long runners Couple gear thoughts: Sweet yellow totem/.4 slotted in plate out left protects final moves. blue totem/.3 is perfect at the very edge of roof, up high not under


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 4 - Windy Point West > ... > Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Christian speaks with great wisdom. listen to him, not the 5.6'ers.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > La Milagrosa Canyon > Main Wall > Litheon Flux (5.11b)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: I second that- I repeatedly missed the crux move to the right fingerlock, And each time fell within about 2 or 3 feet of the ledge. This was thought provoking since I knew it would add a couple or three feet to the fall if I blew the clip.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > La Milagrosa Canyon > Main Wall > Massive Headwound Harry (5.10d)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: grade banter aside this line is actually kinda burly down low and has great moves bottom to top. I found it perplexing to read the first time on it, which added to the fun. A personal favorite for this place.


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Wilson Mountain - East Side > The Bear Gun > ... > Photo
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Looks nice. Well done!


Location: Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > Wilson Mountain - East Side > The Bear Gun > Polar Bear (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Tigers bro. You forgot tigers. And the occasional bold marmot.


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... > Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... > 1 - Lower Highway > ... > It Crack (5.11a/b)
By: JMo When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: Just wondering if the reason for these allegedly odd anchors might be these bolts are in good rock at the obvious top of the crack climb. While the original anchors are set 4 feet back on top of the cap rock above the crack. I'm no expert but it seems to me these anchors are exactly where they should be to facilitate a fun crack climb as opposed to beating the crap out of your rope to awkwardly top out on a non-summit?. I admit they avoid some weird moves above the crack and further that, by say... more >>


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