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Rock Climbing Photo: Closing in on my one and only .12 send on gear!


Member Since: Jan 12, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 27, 2016
Contact JMo

JMo
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Point Rank: # 723
Total Points: 1,105
Last Year: 92
Last 30 Days: 0
53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1059 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 174 | Page Improvements | Comments 138 | Posts 187 | Stars 380 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Boneyard
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Great reason to use a grigri too. Then at least one person lives. I'm super glad you both are OK- that rockfall sounded horrifying!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : In Lightning (5.8)
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: I agree 100% w Christian. Pretty sure if I took a tape measure up there is 15+ feet between bolts on traversing ground in one spot. I love this route. I just wouldn't pretend it lacks spice for the 8 or 9 leader. All 10 leaders and above will find it casual. That is because of the grade not the space between the bolts.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Admiral Throckmorton (5.8+)
By: JMo When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: So there are two lines over the roof. One left and one right. This one is right. It is a number grade easier than the one to the left according to MP. Climb them both and tell me these numbers have anything to do with reality.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : The Lady Don't Mind (5.8)
By: JMo When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Climber's left isn't it?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Indeed at jtree this would get a ton of attention. Bring lots of long runners Couple gear thoughts: Sweet yellow totem/.4 slotted in plate out left protects final moves. blue totem/.3 is perfect at the very edge of roof, up high not under


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Christian speaks with great wisdom. listen to him, not the 5.6'ers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Litheon Flux (5.11)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: I second that- I repeatedly missed the crux move to the right fingerlock, And each time fell within about 2 or 3 feet of the ledge. This was thought provoking since I knew it would add a couple or three feet to the fall if I blew the clip.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Massive Headwound Harry (5.10d)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: grade banter aside this line is actually kinda burly down low and has great moves bottom to top. I found it perplexing to read the first time on it, which added to the fun. A personal favorite for this place.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Wilson Mountain - East Side : The Bear Gun : ... : Photo
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Looks nice. Well done!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Wilson Mountain - East Side : The Bear Gun : Polar Bear (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Tigers bro. You forgot tigers. And the occasional bold marmot.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : It Crack (5.11a/b)
By: JMo When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: Just wondering if the reason for these allegedly odd anchors might be these bolts are in good rock at the obvious top of the crack climb. While the original anchors are set 4 feet back on top of the cap rock above the crack. I'm no expert but it seems to me these anchors are exactly where they should be to facilitate a fun crack climb as opposed to beating the crap out of your rope to awkwardly top out on a non-summit?. I admit they avoid some weird moves above the crack and further that, by say... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Forbes Route (East Approach... (5.4)
By: JMo When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: You mean double strand not double rope. A single 70 works great.

Edit- after 2nd trip up, my partner wanted to kill me for taking a 70. See below. Its easy terrain so you may want a shorter rope and down climb some to save weight. Haven't done it yet this way so can't confirm if 35 meter rope would do?


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: JMo When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Let's assume you climbed this one star route, cursed Charles a bit for calling it a clip up, noted the sandbagged crux, and now want to get down before dark. Perhaps you made the mistake of reading this thread expecting that useful information here. You will instead have regaled yourself with debate about the first ascent and Geir's sobriety, and still be left to wonder how to get down this complex mountain. You will find this rather crucial info on the SE arête route description. It is gold. ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: KK- you need more lumens.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Pussy Mind Trick (5.12-)
By: JMo When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The 3rd pitch is a number grade harder than the second. Fantastic route. If you are the sort of climber who is leading p2 and following 1&3, you might want a couple 4's. Or at least, whatever you do, don't place your only 4 too low. The first pitch is preposterously good.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Elderon (5.9)
By: JMo When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The much-maligned first bolt has a bent/smashed hanger. The second is now the first. This is a touch spicy. Gear can go in crack to right to protect traverse- then clean after clipping the bolt. I recommend .5 Camalot and 0 metolious as larger gear would be in bad rock.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Rivendell
By: JMo When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Climbers don't like beautiful streambed hikes or this place would be packed. Nothing too hard, some sporty sections, slabby edging in a special locale. Me likes.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : Photo
By: JMo When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Don't care what anyone says. Love the sheepshead.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : 40 to Life (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Why not call it 5.8. Makes you seem really badass...


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Get The Flock Out Of Here (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Nov 21, 2015

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Comments: Excellent and stout and except p2 pretty dang hard throughout. 4 out of 5 stars and one of the better multipitch outings under .11 in the stronghold. Just barely under .11.... Reasonable protection except p3 crux fall almost turned out bad for me there. A 00 metolious in a placement a couple feet above the crux bolt may help keep you off the ledge. I cleaned this out w a nut tool and used it after testing the bolt, cause I didn't want to fall upside down within a few feet of the ledge a second... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : The Fool's Gambit (5.11a/b)
By: JMo When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Pretty techy little 11 minus. Like 11c minus.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Bobby Fissure (5.10)
By: JMo When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Single rack of metolious small purple to large blue plus rack of nuts and several long draws did me right. The rock is questionable in places - I broke a foothold on the short traverse to the crack, so nuts may be particularly good on this one. At the roof I could reach up and place a little purple metolious and then run it to the bolt. Easier climbing but you would not want to blow the clip. Really fun moves!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway
By: JMo When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: does the left one have you repeatedly returning to blocky holds on the arete and clipping bolts out right, and at one point committing briefly right to a questionable flake with a fingerlock and then an undercling? if so, then i say (at the risk of incurring The Interwebzian Wrath of Jimbo), that i disagree and found it superfun. definitely pull on stuff with caution.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Sahrrite (5.7+)
By: JMo When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: i'm giving it 4 stars because it is beautifully long on great stone with great movement and fairly consistent at the grade, with tons of protection opportunities (i brought singles to BD3 but you could easily find places for doubles).


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sycamore Canyon : Volunteer Canyon : North Side : ... : Lost Highway (5.10b)
By: JMo When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Here, there, or anywhere, this climb gets all the stars. Walk the 3 and sling anything you leave in the right crack super long or add two letter grades and four letter words.


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