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Member Since: Jan 12, 2009
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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JMo
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Point Rank: # 904
Total Points: 785

59 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1094 | Routes 10 | Areas 1 | Photos 176 | Page Improvements | Comments 146 | Posts 189 | Stars 394 | Ratings 178
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sycamore Canyon : Volunteer Canyon : South Side : ... : Honey Cwm (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: Maybe it was just the company the time and the place, but I followed this route and thought it was other-worldly, with amazing movement and preposterous situations. Dreamlike. Do we think those blocks will stay around a while? I sure hope so. All the stars.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Mirror Image (5.10)
By: JMo When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: CV- no doubt- Greg is The Man. I just wanted to mention bc I moved down here read this jumped in and had one of the very few truly negative experiences I've had climbing. This way people can read this and know it might be very tricky heady and or dangerous and decide for themselves. I admit I'm soft - you should have seen the 7 pieces I placed after the bolt on Graceland yesterday. But compared to mirror image Graceland is a warm bath.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Mirror Image (5.10)
By: JMo When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: If you lead this route and don't think it should be rated R, then you are truly a Lemmon climber. Come on, Greg.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Hi Pro Glow (original line) (5.9+ PG13)
By: JMo When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: if you are jumping on to lipstick it is not the original line, and you are missing out on some fun. red diamond has scores of ways to combine routes. Hi Pro into Lipstick, Glowing Lipstick? is great don't get me wrong, but so is the original line. i'm also curious about sidewinder into mirror image, avoiding the heinously tricky and scant pro of the lower section of mirror image... kind of nice you can use hi pro to TR lipstick or mirror if you don't feel like stepping up. thoug... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : High Pro Glow (5.9-)
By: JMo When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: Description is wrong. Look at the book. High pro glow is a 9+ that stays right and heads up the big crack at the top of the cliff. I have not had the pleasure of doing it this way b/c we only had the app on the phone with the above description which told me head left onto lipstick. Don't get me wrong- this way is great fun and a great climb on its own- but there is absolutely no reason to lug a 5 for this finish- the description above says a big cam helps at the end -- wrong. A #1, .75, or... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Phony Pony (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: Excited to see there is a summit scramble and walk off for this climb.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Ides of Middlemarch (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Feb 12, 2017

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Comments: It would be super cool if the description matched the route as it exists and is climbed these days. P1 is a bolted bulge crux that is rated "10a" (presumably this rating is tossed around without overt malicious intent).


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Out-of-Towners Dome : Down and Outers (5.10+)
By: JMo When: Feb 5, 2017

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Comments: 4 pitches and 2-4 all have at least one 10++ move or more. This is a great route! Bring a light rack, we had singles.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Boneyard
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Great reason to use a grigri too. Then at least one person lives. I'm super glad you both are OK- that rockfall sounded horrifying!


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : In Lightning (5.8)
By: JMo When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: I agree 100% w Christian. Pretty sure if I took a tape measure up there is 15+ feet between bolts on traversing ground in one spot. I love this route. I just wouldn't pretend it lacks spice for the 8 or 9 leader. All 10 leaders and above will find it casual. That is because of the grade not the space between the bolts.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Admiral Throckmorton (5.9-)
By: JMo When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: So there are two lines over the roof. One left and one right. This one is right. It is a number grade easier than the one to the left according to MP. Climb them both and tell me these numbers have anything to do with reality.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : The Lady Don't Mind (5.8)
By: JMo When: Mar 22, 2016

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Comments: Climber's left isn't it?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Old Man (5.9)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Indeed at jtree this would get a ton of attention. Bring lots of long runners Couple gear thoughts: Sweet yellow totem/.4 slotted in plate out left protects final moves. blue totem/.3 is perfect at the very edge of roof, up high not under


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Slippery When Wet (5.7)
By: JMo When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Christian speaks with great wisdom. listen to him, not the 5.6'ers.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Litheon Flux (5.11)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: I second that- I repeatedly missed the crux move to the right fingerlock, And each time fell within about 2 or 3 feet of the ledge. This was thought provoking since I knew it would add a couple or three feet to the fall if I blew the clip.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Massive Headwound Harry (5.10d)
By: JMo When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: grade banter aside this line is actually kinda burly down low and has great moves bottom to top. I found it perplexing to read the first time on it, which added to the fun. A personal favorite for this place.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Wilson Mountain - East Side : The Bear Gun : ... : Photo
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Looks nice. Well done!


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Wilson Mountain - East Side : The Bear Gun : Polar Bear (5.11+)
By: JMo When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Tigers bro. You forgot tigers. And the occasional bold marmot.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : It Crack (5.11a/b)
By: JMo When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: Just wondering if the reason for these allegedly odd anchors might be these bolts are in good rock at the obvious top of the crack climb. While the original anchors are set 4 feet back on top of the cap rock above the crack. I'm no expert but it seems to me these anchors are exactly where they should be to facilitate a fun crack climb as opposed to beating the crap out of your rope to awkwardly top out on a non-summit?. I admit they avoid some weird moves above the crack and further that, by say... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Forbes Route (East Approach... (5.4)
By: JMo When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: You mean double strand not double rope. A single 70 works great.

Edit- after 2nd trip up, my partner wanted to kill me for taking a 70. See below. Its easy terrain so you may want a shorter rope and down climb some to save weight. Haven't done it yet this way so can't confirm if 35 meter rope would do?


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: JMo When: Jan 31, 2016

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Comments: Let's assume you climbed this one star route, cursed Charles a bit for calling it a clip up, noted the sandbagged crux, and now want to get down before dark. Perhaps you made the mistake of reading this thread expecting that useful information here. You will instead have regaled yourself with debate about the first ascent and Geir's sobriety, and still be left to wonder how to get down this complex mountain. You will find this rather crucial info on the SE arête route description. It is gold. ... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Peacemaker (5.10a)
By: JMo When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: KK- you need more lumens.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Twin Butte : ... : Pussy Mind Trick (5.12-)
By: JMo When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: The 3rd pitch is a number grade harder than the second. Fantastic route. If you are the sort of climber who is leading p2 and following 1&3, you might want a couple 4's. Or at least, whatever you do, don't place your only 4 too low. The first pitch is preposterously good.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Elderon (5.9)
By: JMo When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: The much-maligned first bolt has a bent/smashed hanger. The second is now the first. This is a touch spicy. Gear can go in crack to right to protect traverse- then clean after clipping the bolt. I recommend .5 Camalot and 0 metolious as larger gear would be in bad rock.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : Rivendell
By: JMo When: Nov 29, 2015

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Comments: Climbers don't like beautiful streambed hikes or this place would be packed. Nothing too hard, some sporty sections, slabby edging in a special locale. Me likes.


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