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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jim Lawyer

Point Rank: # 377
Total Points: 1,882
Last Year: 482
Last 30 Days: 37
24 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1582 | Routes 67 | Areas 29 | Photos 124 | Page Improvements | Comments 157 | Posts 77 | Stars 1037 | Ratings 91
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Arachnid Traction (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The crack (with the tree in it) is Jump Bat Crack. The climber (coming in from the right side of the photo) is on Arachnid Traction.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Christine (5.10a/b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 2 days ago

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Comments: I got back on this over the summer and found it on the hard side of 5.10, perhaps more like 10c. And I agree that the crux protects really well. The only issue is the roof, which has big, easy holds, but consists of blocks that are a little scary; best to protect in the crack below and move quickly (and gingerly) over this without gear. The crack above protects really well too with #0.75-#1 Camalots.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice Climbing : Knob Lock : Unexpected Pleasure (WI4+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: More traffic? The route was added this summer.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Finger It Out (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: The ground at the start as eroded considerably, making the start much harder (perhaps in the 5.11 range). To keep the grade, simply begin to the left in the next crack.


Location: NY : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: For bouldering, check out Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Aquarium : Rum Doodle (5.7)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: I noticed (and was alarmed by) the "unfortunate graffiti" last weekend (Sep 5, 2016). It appears that people are scraping the moss off the rock to form letters. It's not paint or scratching on the rock. This is a new thing, and is totally unacceptable. It's 50' from the Giant Mtn Trailhead, so it's not surprising, and is consistent with the piles of poop in the woods next to the trailhea... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Shane: That hasn't been added. Got for it!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Ragged Mountain : Runnin' Ragged (5.11b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: There's a bolt at the crux. It really helps to have a draw pre-placed on this, especially if you're short.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Slavery Wall : Happiness in Slavery (5.12b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Having done a bunch of 12s at Ten Sleep and Wild Iris, I fail to understand the hype of this route. I found it hard for the grade, and a couple of the pockets bit me. Ouch! Amazing wall though.


Location: WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Babareena Area : Snake Flake (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I saw a couple of these anchor setups at Ten Sleep. If you add a leaver-biner to the end of the chain, then it equalizes nicely with the shut. Perhaps people are stealing the leaver-biners, leaving the chain dangerously higher than the shut? In other words, if you thread the chain, under tension the rope will slip out of the shut.

The problem would be solved if the chain was 3-4" longer. Until it's fixed, this is a single-point rappel/lower-off.

The route its... more >>


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Bear Scat Rock is a five-star location, and there is no fire damage anywhere on the approach or cliff that we could see (Aug 2016).

"Muzzle Loader" was especially good. "Woody's Hard One" also good, although the bushes were a pain. There is some loose rock, and the area has a newish feeling. No surprise. All routes bolt protected.

The approach map shown in the guidebook is wrong (but more correct than the descripti... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Smear Campaign (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Agree 100% Jon. More like 11b...or Meschinelli "10b". Ha ha ha.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: TommyWiggins: I've asked this exact question to Mellor, Cilley, and Barber.

There appears to be a general lack of remembering. Barber either (a) had a high first piece and reached the belay before the knot reached the first piece, or (b) the second began climbing before he reached the belay. In 2006 Barber told me it was probably a simul-climb situation, but didn't really recall.

Barber also doesn't recall who he did the route with, ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Lost T : Flavor of the Day (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The key jug-shelf below the roof often has a tiny bird's nest (apparently it's a perfect sport for a nest.) Check beforehand or you may reach up and squash eggs or chicks.

(This is a sport route; no additional gear is necessary.)


Location: NY : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice Climbing : Chapel Pond and Chapel Pond... : Patey's Gully (WI3-4)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps this is a variation, but it's the way I've always done it. At the top of the corner, you step left, then go straight up to a roof at the top of the corner about 80' up. Go up the right wall of the corner around the roof, then straight up to the trees. A long pitch with good rock gear to 3" (usually).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Mt. Colden : California Flake (5.9+ PG13) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 5, 2016

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Comments: rgold - not really. If you can stomach the ratty pitons below (the crux of the pitch), then you probably won't mind the run out to the anchor. And, no, there are presently no bolts on the first pitch.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : K: Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff : Poker Face (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: Yes, trees at the top of P1.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Flying & Drinking and Drink... (5.10a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: Regarding the direct: At the start of the traverse, go straight up. The crux at the angled ceiling is the protected by nuts in a corner below your feet; the top of this corner seems to be an unstable block. Hence the R rating.

It's a good lead, but best rehearsed on TR.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Wallface
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Hans: There are several aid lines remaining at Wallface, such as Huff 'n Puff and The Mission to Mars. The other notable line is Mental Blocks, which is climbed mainly as a clean aid route, although has gone free as 12a.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Cedar River Crag : Fritzie's Honor (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: An interesting historical note: this route was cleaned in the 1990s by David Buzzelli, but he never returned to climb it.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Beaverview : ... : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: uh....rock climbing?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Spanky's Area : Sunshine City : Diamonds Aren't Forever (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Bernard: The crux section is in the middle, and it's definitely easier (and tempting) to move right to Bee Hold. Flakes have definitely broken off, but it is speculation whether this made the route harder. Perhaps it was always a sandbag?

I have since climbed it directly and I think 11a or 11b is a fair grade.


Location: Europe : Spain : Catalonia : arboli
By: Jim Lawyer When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the best walls in the Siurana region. Awesome endurance climbs with long pitches. Great photo ops, and a nice communal base area.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Martini Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: This is a hidden gem, and one of the best places to go on a sunny, hot day.

I always wade across (about 20', knee-deep) the base of Shipton's. Also know that you have to bushwhack across the forested slope below Chouinard's Gully to reach the Power Play amphitheater.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Menace To Sobriety (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 4, 2015

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Comments: Awesome news Chuck! Thanks for the community service.


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