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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jim Lawyer

Point Rank: # 186
Total Points: 2,810

45 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jim Lawyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1829 | Routes 94 | Areas 46 | Photos 243 | Page Improvements | Comments 167 | Posts 82 | Stars 1099 | Ratings 98
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Noonmark Mountain : Wiessner Route (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: 3 hours ago

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Comments: Definitely not a survey marker. My guess is that it was added to facilitate climbing the crack. It's hard right there, and the bolt makes a perfect foothold.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond : ... : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: 3 hours ago

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Comments: I'm not sure what "Patey's Right" is, but the line you have labeled as "Patey's Right" is actually "Patey's Straight". The original Patey's goes right about 20' up the gully. The roof is yet some other unnamed version.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Pinnacle Mountain : What The Eft (5.11b) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: 2 days ago

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Comments: This was before Black Lung was cleaned, which is the crack to the right.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Gun Control Now (5.11d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Avoiding the cheater stones is V6.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : A: Northeast : Poke-O-Moonshine
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 9, 2017

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Comments: Chuck, it's a limitation of MP for now. (The words "Rock Climbing" are added by MP and are not removable.)


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : G: The Southern Region : West Canada Cliff : Beast of the Northern Wild (WI5+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 9, 2017

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Comments: This ice route follows (more or less) the summer route "Sausage Science", which ends on the ledge. The ice route stretches the rope to the top of the cliff.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : G: The Southern Region : West Canada Cliff
By: Jim Lawyer When: Feb 9, 2017

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Comments: Outside of Avalanche Lake, this has the most difficult back-country ice climbing in the Adirondack Park. It's an amazing place.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 19, 2017

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Comments: "Blue Lines 2" can be purchased from The Mountaineer in Keene Valley.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond : Lilith (WI4)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: There are two variations that remove all the wandering on this route.

On the first pitch, you can approach the belay ledge directly from below, making this pitch much more difficult. If it's not iced up, then you can dry tool a hidden crack in a right-facing wall (gear to 3"). Both options are great, and make a much nicer first pitch.

On the second pitch, there is a direct approach to the column from the belay ledge. On the overhanging wall, directly above th... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond Canyon : Ice Storm (WI5+ M5 PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jan 3, 2017

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Comments: Regarding the toprope comment above: this route (and the others on this wall) rarely forms, and when it does, the ice is fragile. I recommend against toproping it unless you can really treat it delicately.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : A: Northeast : Poke-O-Moonshine : Bushido (WI4+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 22, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the better lines at the Waterfall, but I think it's solid WI5. It's steeper, and less featured than the other lines, and is almost always delaminated. Finishing up the arete directly above puts the line at WI5+/6-.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Kalydna : Aurora (Part1) (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 13, 2016

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Comments: Old-school bolt spacing. Exciting!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Arachnid Traction (5.8) : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 7, 2016

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Comments: The crack (with the tree in it) is Jump Bat Crack. The climber (coming in from the right side of the photo) is on Arachnid Traction.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Creature Wall : Christine (5.10a/b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Dec 7, 2016

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Comments: I got back on this over the summer and found it on the hard side of 5.10, perhaps more like 10c. And I agree that the crux protects really well. The only issue is the roof, which has big, easy holds, but consists of blocks that are a little scary; best to protect in the crack below and move quickly (and gingerly) over this without gear. The crack above protects really well too with #0.75-#1 Camalots.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : The Barkeater Cliff : Finger It Out (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Oct 1, 2016

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Comments: The ground at the start as eroded considerably, making the start much harder (perhaps in the 5.11 range). To keep the grade, simply begin to the left in the next crack.


Location: New York : Adirondacks
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: For bouldering, check out Adirondack Park Bouldering by Justin Sanford.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Aquarium : Rum Doodle (5.7)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: I noticed (and was alarmed by) the "unfortunate graffiti" last weekend (Sep 5, 2016). It appears that people are scraping the moss off the rock to form letters. It's not paint or scratching on the rock. This is a new thing, and is totally unacceptable. It's 50' from the Giant Mtn Trailhead, so it's not surprising, and is consistent with the piles of poop in the woods next to the trailhea... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 30, 2016

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Comments: Shane: That hasn't been added. Got for it!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : E: High Peaks Region : Ragged Mountain : Runnin' Ragged (5.11b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 23, 2016

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Comments: There's a bolt at the crux. It really helps to have a draw pre-placed on this, especially if you're short.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Mondo Beyondo : Slavery Wall : Happiness in Slavery (5.12b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Having done a bunch of 12s at Ten Sleep and Wild Iris, I fail to understand the hype of this route. I found it hard for the grade, and a couple of the pockets bit me. Ouch! Amazing wall though.


Location: Wyoming : Ten Sleep Canyon : Valhalla : Babareena Area : Snake Flake (5.10b)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I saw a couple of these anchor setups at Ten Sleep. If you add a leaver-biner to the end of the chain, then it equalizes nicely with the shut. Perhaps people are stealing the leaver-biners, leaving the chain dangerously higher than the shut? In other words, if you thread the chain, under tension the rope will slip out of the shut.

The problem would be solved if the chain was 3-4" longer. Until it's fixed, this is a single-point rappel/lower-off.

The route its... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Laramie Range : Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 15, 2016

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Comments: Bear Scat Rock is a five-star location, and there is no fire damage anywhere on the approach or cliff that we could see (Aug 2016).

"Muzzle Loader" was especially good. "Woody's Hard One" also good, although the bushes were a pain. There is some loose rock, and the area has a newish feeling. No surprise. All routes bolt protected.

The approach map shown in the guidebook is wrong (but more correct than the descripti... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Poke-O-Moonshine : Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face : Smear Campaign (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: Agree 100% Jon. More like 11b...or Meschinelli "10b". Ha ha ha.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : The Spider's Web : Drop, Fly, or Die (5.11a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: TommyWiggins: I've asked this exact question to Mellor, Cilley, and Barber.

There appears to be a general lack of remembering. Barber either (a) had a high first piece and reached the belay before the knot reached the first piece, or (b) the second began climbing before he reached the belay. In 2006 Barber told me it was probably a simul-climb situation, but didn't really recall.

Barber also doesn't recall who he did the route with, ... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Lost T : Flavor of the Day (5.12a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The key jug-shelf below the roof often has a tiny bird's nest (apparently it's a perfect sport for a nest.) Check beforehand or you may reach up and squash eggs or chicks.

(This is a sport route; no additional gear is necessary.)


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