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Member Since: Feb 19, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 176
Total Points: 3,224

62 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 2030 | Routes 105 | Areas 54 | Approach Trails 1 | Photos 272 | Page Improvements | Comments 196 | Posts 92 | Stars 1192 | Ratings 118
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : Little Crow Mountain : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 25, 2017

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Comments: This is the base of the Barney Rubble Wall.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : Little Crow Mountain : Photo
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 25, 2017

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Comments: This is the route Yabba Dabba Doo (5.10d) at the Barney Rubble Wall.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Otter Lake Cliff : Porcupine Prelude (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: There's a large, wiggly, loose block in the crack near the top. I tried to remove it, but it's really wedged in there. Moves like crazy though.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Otter Lake Cliff : Crimp Scampi (5.11a PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: Surprisingly good. The second clip is sketch, so you can stick clip it...but then this is a 1-bolt sport route. No gear is necessary. Also, there's one really sharp right-hand crimp. Ouch!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Otter Lake Cliff : Independence Pass (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 20, 2017

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Comments: As of Aug 2017: First bolt pulled out of the hole and is now removed. Needs replacement. Stick clip the second bolt.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : I: Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls
By: Jim Lawyer When: Aug 1, 2017

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Comments: As of July 30, 2017, the river is still too high to cross without a canoe. There is now a tyrolean upstream of the normal board crossing. Bring a pulley.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Lower Beer Wall : Rockaholic (5.8)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jul 27, 2017

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Comments: As of July 2017, the junky gear anchor has been replaced with a bolt anchor.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : C: Keene Region : Pitchoff Chimney Cliff : Star Sailor (5.10c/d)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: The only downside to this route is having to disrupt the constant train of folks on Pete's Farewell to access the start. Other than that, it's a top route!


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Lost T : Courtney Marie's Boobies (5.10b/c PG13)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: Now has a fixed anchor.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Lost T : Crimps Are For Pimps (5.11- R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 30, 2017

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Comments: Now has a fixed anchor.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Backwater Wall
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 27, 2017

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Comments: You can see the Whitewater Walls clearly from the road; they are at the same level as the road. Scramble down the embankment to the river, find a place to cross, then walk up to the crags. If there's no dry rock-hop place to cross, you'll have to wade or swim, but I've never see the water *that* high.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Lower Beer Wall : Detoxification (5.8 R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: I should add that this route shared a tree anchor with Rockaholic, and that this tree died some years ago. I believe there is a new fixed anchor (on gear), but I'm not sure exactly where it is, or if it's still there.

Edit: As of July 2017, use the new fixed anchor on Rockaholic.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Beer Walls : Lower Beer Wall : Detoxification (5.8 R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: The tree with the fixed anchor is gone.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : B: Chapel Pond Pass : Upper Washbowl Cliff : Feet of Fire (5.11c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: Yes, as detailed here, this route has been upgraded by the FA party.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Tombstone (5.10a)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 20, 2017

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Comments: bingram: There *is* a bomber sling anchor on a tree, but perhaps not the tree you mention. Once you top out, walk back, scramble up a short slab, and locate a bomber sling anchor on a solid tree hidden by some branches. It's about 20' back from the top-out, and serves as the top anchor for belaying the follower. To rappel, simply use the Geronimo anchor, which is just over the lip (climber's) right of the top-out, and is easily reached from the top.

FYI: This is the same anchor setu... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Shantytown (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: MasterBeta: That's a variation to Hooverville. Things are tightly packed in there.


Location: New York : Payne Lake : A Better Place, Now! (5.6)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Nice line; somebody needs to remove that terrible bush!


Location: New York : Payne Lake : White Lies Yellow Teeth (5.9+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Pretty fun. The offwidth at the top has some hidden holds that make it a bit easier than otherwise. Needs cleaning...I pulled out some fairly large chockstones. Fixed anchor that you can reach from the top without rappelling.


Location: New York : Payne Lake : Never Ending Math Equation (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: I thought this was a high quality line. Look for the glue-in bolts. The first bolt is high, so maybe stick clip. The crux is half-way up (not the top). There's a fixed anchor.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : Drifter (5.10a R)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 13, 2017

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Comments: Woah...10a? I don't think so. Not if you avoid the routes to either side.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : I: Old Forge Region : Eagle Falls
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: As of May 10, 2017, The river is still too high to safely cross. Need a canoe to cross above the dam. The entire area is flooded with sooo much water.

Routes are dry, though.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : H: Southern Mountains : Pinnacle Mountain
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 9, 2017

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Comments: Peter Young: You can, but you have to work a little. For the routes at the Peninsula, walk/bushwhack left in front of the outer face of the peninsula, then back right to a ledge above the routes. A short rappel will get you to an anchor. For the Main Face, walk right into the chimney, make a couple 5th class moves, then walk to the top. The Kraken tree is accessible by walking. The other routes will require a rappel to safely reach an anchor.

So, yes, "reasonable", but not trivial. De... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : A: Lake Champlain Region : Highway Blues Slab
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Regarding Jay's comment about setting up a TR...here's the beta:

Walk left and follow the base of the cliff until you can cut back right to the top. Fairly easy.

You can reach the anchor of Road Trip without any fuss. It's set back from the edge, so you might want some long cord to extend the anchor to the edge.

The anchor on Eighteen Wheeler requires a belay or rappel to safely reach, and [with a 70m rope] you can set a TR directly off this anchor for that route.

F... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : D: Wilmington Region : Bear Den : Doesn't Remind Me (5.10c)
By: Jim Lawyer When: May 2, 2017

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Comments: Hey Matt, the info in Adirondack Rock was how the route was originally attempted. It was abandoned, and later completed by Mark & Will, who used a different (and better) start. That chimney is jingus.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : D: Wilmington Region : Moss Cliff : Creation of the World (5.10+)
By: Jim Lawyer When: Apr 25, 2017

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Comments: Jerome: In case that link is taken down:

Start: On the overhanging northeast face, find the lone low bolt and begin just to the right.

Pitch 1: Clip the bolt (while standing on the ground) and make difficult face moves leftwards past the bolt to a small overlap. Small TCUs and nuts protect the moves up the shallow left-facing corner and into the "flare". The flare constitutes the crux of the pitch and is easier for small people: awkward moves and good protection i... more >>


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