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Member Since: Oct 27, 2005
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 19,326
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Jerry Handren been climbing?


All 32 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 15 | Stars 1 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Warrior Eagle

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 45'

California > Joshua Tree National Park > ... > The Castle

Mar 3, 2010

Contributed Comments


Location: New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff > The Agronaut (5.13a)
By: Jerry Handren When: Dec 25, 2013

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Comments: Stevie wasn't exactly an English professor, but calling this route AGRONAUT wasn't a mistake.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Soft Job (5.12d)
By: Jerry Handren When: Aug 2, 2013

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Comments: FWIW Stevie Damboise flashed (or maybe even onsighted...can't remember if he went first or if I dogged it out first) the second ascent a day or two after Billy did it.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) > Sundown Ledge > Boulder Loop Trail Boulders > Moose Ball Arête (V4+ PG13)
By: Jerry Handren When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: The face was climbed by Dave Jacobson in 1988, he had a name for it but I can't remember what it was. The route started on the left and moved into the thin crack to finish. This was before pads, and I think he might have actually led it using a single tcu placement.

Location: New Hampshire > *Cannon Cliff > 2. Duet Area etc > Sinister Satisfaction (5.8+) > Photo
By: Jerry Handren When: May 16, 2012

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Comments: Fall from Grace
More than likely the nicest pure arete climb in New Hampshire. An extravaganza of desperate slapping, at the top end of the grade (12b). The bolting was a little sporty because there just weren't many clipping stances.
FA Jerry Handren, Chris Gill. June 1988.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Meadows > Holderness Corner > Hope For Movement (5.12d)
By: Jerry Handren When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: ok lets clear things up a bit.
Duncan McCallum did the first ascent of Hope for Donna in the spring of 1988 in a pretty impressive one day ascent, after bolting then route the previous day.
The route went up to that sloping shelf after the crux, then moved right to finish up the original finish of Flesh For Lulu which was up the center of the headwall to the left of where Flesh finishes now.
Next year Scott prepped but did not complete a left-hand finish which went up the thin crack/seam off the... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Cathedral Ledge > The Cathedral Cave > The Devil Made Me Dog It (5.12b)
By: Jerry Handren When: Sep 12, 2010

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Comments: There are no chipped holds on this route, so I don't know where "obviously manufactured" comes from. Possibly some grinding from Dry toolers.

If fact rumours of chipping in the cave went way over the top. Stevie chipped The Mercy, I reinforced that big flake on Sanctuary with glue (apparently liquid nails works pretty well since its still there !!) and beat a crumbling finger edge into a solid sloper up high, but that was the only chipping that I'm aware of, none of the other routes had any chi... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > *Rumney Bouldering > Black Jack Boulders > The Ricochet Boulder > Jerry's Traverse (V7)
By: Jerry Handren When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: The crux is staying very low between the Right and Left Train Track. From the starting hold on right Train Track move down, then go left using a small undercling. A bit contrived since its easier to go across up higher, but a powerful sequence.

Location: New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) > Sundown Ledge > Main Cliff > Eyeless in Gaza (5.12b)
By: Jerry Handren When: May 24, 2009

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Comments: " This might explain the shenanigans that went into sending this route. Climbers attempted this route for a few years before it was bolted. They used dubious pro, including pins that were pounded in behind some of the thin flakes that make for great incut edges for handholds. Between every attempt, the pins had to be pounded back in because the force of the fall loosened them. The route was eventually clandestinely bolted and sent, proving that Eyeless was always meant to be a sport route, despi... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Jackrabbit Buttress > Juggernaut (5.10+)
By: Jerry Handren When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: Karsten, only a mind lobotomized by the tottering attractions of the Labyrinth Wall could possibly think that this scruffy little route is worth any stars.

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Super Creeps Wall > Waltzing Worm (5.12a)
By: Jerry Handren When: Dec 5, 2007

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Comments: Checked this out to-day. Suprisingly, no change in grade, although the upper sequence is probably the crux now that the plate is gone.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Willow Spring > Hidden Falls Wall > Bigfoot - aka Sole Slasher (5.10a)
By: Jerry Handren When: Aug 27, 2007

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Comments: I recieved this note from Al Rubin a day or two ago, too late to put in the guide.
"Hi Jerry, I found my notes on that route in Red Rocks. The route that Todd Swain calls Bigfoot in Lost Creek Canyon/Hidden Falls is really Sole Slasher, FA: Mark Robinson, Eric Keto and myself on March 12,'89. Mark bolted and led the route. the name is a surfing term--Mark's passion at the time. This piece of information won't exactly turn the history of Red Rocks' climbing on its head, but its nice to be accurat... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock
By: Jerry Handren When: Aug 5, 2006

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Comments: Hi Folks
I'm close to completing a new guidebook to Red Rocks, (yes another one). I've got room for a few more shots and have too many of my friends already, so I'd like to get a few new faces in there. I'm looking for shots of leaders on multi pitch canyon routes in particular, but any nice shot will do. 4 mp digital is probably the minimum, I can use slides as well.
Any new route information is welcome. If its in the canyons and bolts are involved send it anonymously, so that neither I nor the... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress > Sugar and Spice (5.10a R)
By: Jerry Handren When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: Had a talk with Andrew tonight, he confirmed that Cayenne Corner is indeed the line on the next chunk of rock to the right, ie to the right of Sugar and Spice. Sorry for the confusion.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress > Sugar and Spice (5.10a R)
By: Jerry Handren When: Oct 28, 2005

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Comments: I asked Andrew Fulton, who was on the first ascent team, about the route a month or two ago, he said that it was a short distance right of Ginger cracks. I said how far is a short distance?, he said "spitting distance". Now while I would never underestimate Andrews spitting ability, the line in the topo is a little far. After our conversation he left me with the impression that Cayenne Corners was the line that you are calling Spice, but I'll try to get a definative answer sometime soon.

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Juniper Canyon > Ginger Buttress > Sugar and Spice (5.10a R)
By: Jerry Handren When: Oct 27, 2005

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Comments: Actualy Larry this route is in the guidebook, its just realy badly described, its called Cayenne Corners. Just ignore the photodiagram on page 305( along with just about every other photodiagram in the book) and ignore the " 200 ft right of Ginger cracks", and you will see that the rest of the description fits the line. Also in the same area, I'm pretty sure that Sweet Honey Pumpkin Love and Its a Boy! It's a Girl are the same route.

Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Possible Loop Road Fee Increase- public feedback needed NevadaJerry HandrenSep 8, 2017
re: 'Obscure' guidebook ?NevadaJerry HandrenMay 11, 2017
Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide II available.NevadaJerry HandrenMar 22, 2016
Black Velvet new routes?NevadaJerry HandrenJan 24, 2013
Camera found at Meetup WallNevadaJerry HandrenOct 22, 2012
North Conway Rock available.Eastern StatesJerry HandrenMay 16, 2012
re: .NevadaJerry HandrenMay 6, 2012
re: Jay Smith?NevadaJerry HandrenOct 14, 2008
re: Getting off MescalitoNevadaJerry HandrenAug 27, 2008
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