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Member Since: Jul 10, 2009
Last Visit: Jan 15, 2017
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Point Rank: # 19,136
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jeremy.M been climbing?










Contributions


All 31 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 11 | Posts | Stars 10 | Ratings 9

Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Eichorn Pinnacle > ... > Photo
By: Jeremy.M When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: It's probably not more popular because it calls for 4s, a 5, and 6s. That's a long haul with big gear for one pitch.


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > San Juans > The Grenadiers > The Guardian > Theory of the Leisure Class... (5.8)
By: Jeremy.M When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Really nice route, it's good to have more quality alpine routes in the San Juans. Thanks for putting this up and posting it, fellas! Awesome adventure indeed.

GRADE:
I am very confident that this is significantly harder than 5.8. Up high there are options and one could probably keep it 5.8 and below, but the first couple of hundred feet (in the big dihedral, which is great climbing) felt more like 5.10, or 9+ at the very least. The "fatty boombatty" also felt harder than 5.8. I w... more >>


Location: Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > East Stronghold > Rockfellow Group > ... > Photo
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Fat Cow - This comment is way late, you may never see it. But in case you or anyone else is wondering, here's how it looks to me:
These guys are climbing on two ropes. So the 2nd and third are each tied into the end of a different rope. The leader will belay them both up at once (spaced as far apart as they wish) using the auto-locking ATC guide in 'guide-mode'.

What it sounds like you're talking about is if they were 'end-roping', using only one rope on the climb. In this case the middle-pe... more >>


Location: Colorado > Durango > Sailing Hawks > Petrified Boulder
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know what the problem is that's in between Petrified Arete and Somethin' Southern? It looks real hard?


Location: Colorado > Durango > Sailing Hawks > Petrified Boulder > Somethin' Southern (V6)
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Great, sustained problem with a landing that wants some pads. V6 at Sailing Hawks. Harder most places.


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Sundance Pinnacle > Photo
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Great beta photo. To add some insight, from left to right the blue lines are, according to the Bechtel guide: (1)East face Center 5.9 (We did this as one rope-stretching pitch ~71meters); (2)Klettershoe Chimney 5.9 (didn't climb this because it looked more like an off-width to me and I wasn't prepared for that); (3) Right Crack; and (4) NE Arete

Personally, I think it would be a bit of a shame to walk in from the side instead of climbing the easy 5th class straight from the bottom. But that's... more >>


Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Horsetooth Reservoir > Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder > Silver Dollar Traverse (V7)
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Jordan, I agree that this is probably a V8, especially for tall people. When I was posting this, I was barely climbing that hard and nervous to give it a hard rating for fear of being wrong.


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Wolfs Head > East Ridge (5.6)
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: Incredible route. One of the most memorable I've done, right up there with Ancient Art. I thought that the short downward part of the piton-traverse was the scariest part and harder than 5.6, so I give it 5.7 just for those 10-15 feet.

We did the GRASSY LEDGES APPROACH. It was fun and mostly easy, but we scoped it well from the bottom and looked around while we were on it and I can't imagine that going at 3rd class, or even 4th class for that matter. We ended up simul-climbing the la... more >>


Location: Wyoming > Wind River Range > Cirque of the Towers > Pingora > East Face, Left Side Cracks (5.7)
By: Jeremy.M When: Aug 29, 2015

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Comments: I don't know if we were ever on the standard route, there seem to be lots of options. I think we were a little farther left than most people and we definitely got into some 5.8 climbing or harder. I would not recommend this climb unless you are very confident at 5.7. In particular, after the easy section of simul-climbing we headed for the right side of the huge right facing dihedral because that's how it looks in the beta photo. This RF dihedral was off-width in sections and certainly harder t... more >>


Location: California > Yosemite National Park
By: Jeremy.M When: Jul 12, 2015

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Comments: Can anyone recommend the best guide book for Yosemite free climbs, hopefully including Tuolumne?


Location: Colorado > Fort Collins > Horsetooth Reservoir > Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder > Penny Pincher (V3+)
By: Jeremy.M When: Oct 19, 2009

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Comments: I don't know about the name of the overhang on the North side, but I've done the problem going up left and it feels significant;y harder than V4 to me. I'd give it a solid 6. Great problem either way.
As for the Penny Pincher, maybe it's just something about this particular problem for me, but I give it a solid 4, if not 5. I find it just as hard as the Punk Rock Traverse, and definitely as hard as Corner Lock, and Mental block's Standard Route. I think it's harder than the right Eliminator,... more >>


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