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Member Since: Jun 14, 2012
Last Visit: Dec 28, 2017
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has JeffL been climbing?


All 350 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 308 | Stars 7 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments


Location: South America > Chile > Valle Cochamó
By: JeffL When: Oct 30, 2017

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Comments: This place is epic. Here’s what I wish I knew before going:
You just carry or hire a mule to bring all of your food and gear 13km, slightly uphill in the mud. I made 3 trips up and down over the course of a month. I’d recommend bringing 3x the amount of food you think you will need.

Every route requires at least an hour hike. Some routes require 6 hours of hiking. I felt like I needed more rest days from hiking than the climbing.

I can’t remember a single route that a 70m rope was ... more >>

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Temple of Sinawava > The Silverback (5.12+)
By: JeffL When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: Pitch 2 and 3 as described here have several missing bolt hangers. The leaning corner had no hanger on the bolt at the crux, and one other spot with no hangar. On Pitch 3, I could count 6 bolts but only two of which had hangers, we rapped and didn't do this pitch.

Not sure what's up, but bring some stoppers or rivethangars if you want any form of protection from these bolts.

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Lone Peak Cirque > South Summit Wall > Free Mexican Air Force (5.11b PG13)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: We found plenty of other pro than just the machine bolts. They actually looked in better condition than most of the rusted protection bolts in the cirque. I was kept away from this climb for a while because I was unsure what the pro was like. I found it to be safer than many other routes on the cirque. Get on it!

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Hogum Fork > Hogum's Heroes (5.11a/b)
By: JeffL When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: Did this route a few days ago, big day. We hiked with half a liter, and filled up in the pools in Maybird. If I did this again, I would hike past Red Pine Lake, then behind the Pfeifferhorn. If you avoid the summit of the Pfeiff, and walk south, you end up in some alpine meadow/fields that are pretty casual to walk in. You could also summit the Pfeiff and follow the ridge to the best place to drop into Hogum Cirque. Leave your pack on the ridge and hike for 30 minutes to the base of the rou... more >>

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Lone Peak Cirque > Flying Buttress > Hound's Tooth (5.11c/d)
By: JeffL When: Jul 10, 2016

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Comments: This route has amazing free climbing! Doubles green c3 and below, small nuts for the 10d dihedral. Moving past the "hounds tooth" is the crux. Standard rack for the crux move and 2nd pitch. The rock is really good! A small amount of exfoliation similar to what you'll see anywhere in the cirque. If this route see's a few more ascents, it will clean up nicely!

The block at the top of the first pitch is detached. It's huge, and doesn't seem likely to move, just use... more >>

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Lone Peak Cirque > Hyperform Wall > Vandals Took The Handle (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: Bring a knife to cut the tat at the anchors. There is so much, it's stiff, crusty and not that great. Quick links or biners for the bolts would be adequate to make the anchors ideal, tat would be another temporary fix.

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Green Adjective Gully > Trinity Right (5.12a)
By: JeffL When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: Can you clean this route on rappel? Obviously it's easier to have the 2nd clean it, but what if both want to lead it?

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Long Canyon > Shady Crag > Mini Skirts And Halter Tops (5.11-)
By: JeffL When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Such a rad route! Do it in one pitch for sure! Rack I'd take next time: .3, .4, 2x .5, 3x .75 and #1, 2x #2, and single 3 and 4. At least 6 slings, 3 double lengths, and a few draws. The roof is amazing, felt quite hard for 11a. The #2's in the roof are perfect, definitely no worries about it being tipped out.

This route seems like it would in the shade all day every day as it is in a dihedral with a pillar in front of it

Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Fin > The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: JeffL When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: I took the whipper just before reaching the chicken head yesterday. I fell pretty far, but it's not that bad. There is a shelf about 40 feet below the first bolt, best for the belayer to stand here as opposed to near the base of the fin arête.

As for gear, I brought a single rack #1 and below, offset nuts, and C3s that I did not place. I wish I had more quick draws to link p2 and p3. The pin they speak of above looked solid. You could definitely bring more gear, but if you're getting on t... more >>

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Angel's Landing > Prodigal Sun (5.8 C2)
By: JeffL When: Nov 24, 2014

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Comments: I did this as my first wall. Mostly a bolt ladder. As stated above. Tricams, pink, red, blue, brown make the c2 pretty straight forward if you look at how the beta photo places it.

Metolius cams were money in some of the c2 pods, one pod in particular that super topo makes a big deal out of.

There was a missing pin on p3, only spot a hook is really needed. Seems like there's a free variation to the left to bypass this. DON"T USE CAM HOOKS.

Took us 13 hours, base to summit. Don't plan on... more >>

Location: Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake
By: JeffL When: Aug 10, 2014

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Comments: The approach beta is slightly off. Hike west, not east from the parking lot. It's the same major trail as the Ruth lake hiking trail. There is a wooden sign that says "climbing" where you leave the main trail.

Also, the routes are bolted but almost all of them would go on gear. Bring a rack of nuts, tricams, and small camalots if you're into mixing things up a bit.

Location: Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Road > Bridge Area > Taking the Bullet (5.11a)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Very fun route! Endurance fest and fun movement. Lots of bolts spin on this route. Bring something to tighten them! Also, the anchors bolts are placed in a staggered orientation. Bring a double length sling or some cord to equalize them if you plan on TRing. Two quickdraws are not ideal on this anchor.

Location: Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Road > Bridge Area > The Tiger's Revenge (5.10d)
By: JeffL When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route with fun movement! The first bolt needs to be tightened! The hangar fell off when my partner weighted the rope. I was able to find the nut and tighten it with my fingers, but if you have a wrench bring it! Also, "Taking the Bullet" Just right of here needs several bolts tightened.

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower > North Face (5.11-)
By: JeffL When: May 7, 2014

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Comments: For some reason I thought you could rap this with a single 70m rope... Maybe the above poster speaking of an anchor 20-30 feet below the summit would work, but you won't make it to the belay ledge from the summit rap. We downclimbed... 5.4 exposed with huge consequences. There's also a bolt at the ledge that you do reach (15-20 feet short of the anchors) for the bolted route that goes up the north face. If you wanted to leave a locker or do some sort of shenanigans that would be possible. D... more >>

Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge Buttres... > The Mystery Machine (5.10b/c)
By: JeffL When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and definitely b... more >>

Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > Epinephrine (5.9)
By: JeffL When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Amazing route! I brought a single rack green alien to #4 camalot, with a 2nd #2 and an 11 hex. I was very happy to have and place the hex. Nothing else was needed, though you could walk a 5 for a ways in the chimney if you aren't comfortable. Once in the chimneys and once at a gear belay just after the last anchor in the guidebook (not supertopo). The last anchor shown in the guidebook before scrambling is missing the bolts. There's only 1 left, and it's not all that great. You could poss... more >>

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > The Confluence > Smashmouth (5.11)
By: JeffL When: Jan 27, 2014

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Comments: The beginning of the first pitch was not obvious to me. I think I was too far right? At any rate it was chossy and dirty. Is there scrambling required to get to the thin hands crack and beginning of the route?

Location: Oklahoma > Wichita Wildlife Refuge > The Narrows > Zoo Wall > The Dihedral (5.6)
By: JeffL When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: Felt like 5.7+ to me, falls were not clean as mentioned above. It's not really a crack climb, I used more liebacking and face climbing. I'd highly recommend Crazy Alice over this climb if you feel confident at 5.8 and are looking to jam

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches > Royal Arches (5.10a)
By: JeffL When: Oct 8, 2012

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Comments: There is a left facing just before the last pitch or two of traversing to the rappel bolts. Do not go up the steep crack! We did two 5.10 pitches to top out, but ended up bailing back down because there was no walk off or access to the North Dome that we could find.

Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: There is a rappel approach described in the book, here is the beta from personal experience. The hardest part is the first 3rd class scramble. There is a cairn marking the chimney or 4th class part just before the rappel bolts. We fixed a line and rapped the chimney with our packs, but down climbing and lowering packs would be ideal. Make sure you have a 60m rope to hit the ground, 70m is better for comfort as you can rappel past some scrambling. Watch for nettles as you pick up a trail and... more >>

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Half Dome > Snake Dike (5.7 R)
By: JeffL When: Sep 29, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this yesterday. I thought the technical crux was on the first pitch and the psychological is the 1200 feet of unroped slab to top out. There are bear lockers at Little Yosemite Valley. If you get a permit you can hike 4 of the 6 mile approach the day before.

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Kolob Canyon > South Fork of Taylor > Namaste Wall > 1/2 Route (5.10+)
By: JeffL When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: Amazing flow and well bolted. This it's the best single pitch sport route i have ever climbed! The approach is long but beautiful!

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