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Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at The Stretcher.  Devil's Lake WI


Member Since: Jan 10, 2012
Last Visit: Nov 27, 2016
Contact Jeff VS

Point Rank: # 6,122
Total Points: 89
Last Year: 42
Last 30 Days: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 44 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 19 | Posts 8 | Stars 8 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Heisenberg Cheese Danse (FA)

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a (1)

Trad, 1 pitch, 45'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat...

Nov 1, 2016

Indigo Billy

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Jul 24, 2016

Law and Gospel

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

Nov 1, 2015

6.63 Smoots

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

May 28, 2014

Beer and Booty

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b (5)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall

May 28, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Stephan on the crux

Stephan on the crux

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Indigo Billy (5.8)

Nov 7, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: John on the second crux

John on the second crux

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b)

Oct 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: John Markestad on the first crux, just off the gro...

John Markestad on the first crux, just off the ground.

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b)

Oct 20, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at The Stretcher.  Devil's Lake WI

Belaying at The Stretcher. Devil's Lake WI

The People of Mountain Proj... : Jeff VS : 4-H climbing pics

Nov 11, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Law and Gospel (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: John, Hannah and I all did this today(in the cold and wind). This is a wonderful route! We need some 5.12+ climbers to do this and see if they agree with my rating...maybe 5.11c? It's hard for we at the edge of our ability to be sure if we are rating this correctly. Give it a try. Bet you will like it!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Watermarks Left Side (5.8)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 11, 2016

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Comments: This climb is a very pleasant lead with a standard rack. There are MANY variations on this route; all about 5.8


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Law and Gospel (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: I worked out the whole crux yesterday and bumped up the rating to 5.11a/b (from 5.10d). Try it and see if you agree. This is a very pretty climb with lots of interesting moves.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat... : Heisenberg Cheese Danse (5.9)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: I put this up in 1977. The Janesville Gazette sent a photographer, Skip Drew, up to do a climbing article about the lake and I lead this for him. I have a nice image from it around here somewhere. I'll post it when I find it.
I played hookey today (11/1/16) and tried it for the first time in over 35 years...Well I took three falls on the finger jam and was so pooped by the time I got the the roof that, while I did make the crux move, I almost immediately fell off and was t... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Fear and Trembling (5.9)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 26, 2016

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Comments: This isn't a bad little climb (not counting the 5.11 bit at the top) but I sure think it is way over rated at 5.9. The crux/start is a bit tricky to suss out but it can be done correctly (nothing "off route") at about 5.7 and nothing after the crux seems tougher than 5.7. I have watched people use 5.9 moves to get the crux but they seem more interested in finding marginal hand holds than using some of the nice dancing foot moves to get it done. ... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Watermarks Left Side (5.8)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: This is one of the best routes on this wall and I think it deserves it's own name. What do you think of calling it "Erol's Marks"? Erol Altay, a Devil's Lake climbing phenom, just died in a climbing accident in Canada. I have belayed Erol on this route and he did use chalk and left his mark.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Red Pulpit (5.6)
By: Jeff VS When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Want a lovely variation? After the first crack, keep going staight up; don't go to the pulpit. You have a couple of very nice, balancy 5.8 moves. You'll like it!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Law and Gospel (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Erol and John can do this climb clean. I can't (yet). The many tiny micro crimps are real finger biters. After the first 10-12', the climb becomes a very nice series of 5.9 dance moves.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Finally! After more than 40 years of thrashing on this, it all came together today. What a lovely climb (once you can figure out that tricky start)! Thanks to John Markestad for the beta!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: After having this start spank me every time for years, last evening John and I finally worked out the start all the way up the first 15' before we ran out of light. I can hardly wait for next weekend to put it all together! I suspect we do it more like Angie and less like Doug but I've never seen either of them do it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff VS When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Terry! Couldn't imagine it was a FA. It is such a pretty climb, I'd just like more people to enjoy it.

We also have a couple of "nobody knows about" spots that I'll never list on Mountain Project.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This is such an obvious route I can't imagine it hasn't been done many times before. I don't find it listed in any of the guide books though.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : 6.63 Smoots (5.8-)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Sorry about the (now removed) Grade V. I had a senior moment.

BTW, there is a move on the climb that is a bit of a reach. If you are only one Smoot or less in height, it might be a bit of a challenge.

I'm leaving work early today (shhh! don't tell!) to put two young climbers on this very climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Der Glotz (5.9)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Have just a little time at the end of the day? "Der Glotz" is your go-to. John Markestad and I often take a 12 pack up to the Balanced Rock Wall after work. "Der Glotz" and "Beer & Booty" are the most interesting routes to play on with lots of variations to keep them interesting. Both climbs become VERY interesting after 4 beers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.1.1 - Railroad Amphitheat... : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: There is a very nice "hero" variation at the crux (we call it the "cheese danse"). When you are tucked under the big crux roof, instead of manteling to the ledge on the right, reach up on the face above the roof until you find the nice finger ledge with your left hand. The real "hero" looking move is to then match both hands on the little ledge and let go with the feet and just hang in mid air. Do a pull-up on the little ledge and use the little bulge on the edge of the over-hang for your rig... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Charybdis was my first DL lead back in 1970 and is still one of my favorite climbs to do. It is a real "classic" and, top roped or lead, shouldn't be missed.


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