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Member Since: Feb 26, 2006
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
Contact Jeff G.

Point Rank: # 875
Total Points: 820

508 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jeff G. been climbing?










Contributions


All 1287 | Routes 20 | Areas 2 | Photos 129 | Page Improvements | Comments 143 | Posts 356 | Stars 364 | Ratings 273
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: May 7, 2017

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Comments: Really nice!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Earth Juice (5.11c PG13)
By: Jeff G. When: Apr 22, 2017

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Comments: This route is really good! First pitch feels a little bold but on easier and positive holds. The hard stuff is perfectly protected with new stainless bolts.
The second pitch is a pretty wild ride. The rightward traverse off the anchor is pretty cool but not hard. The upper traverse felt hard and I fell a few times trying to figure out the moves back left to join into the top of Kisses Don't Lie. Really cool body tension and you just have to trust those feet! You can fal... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : Kisses Don't Lie (5.12b PG13)
By: Jeff G. When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: One of the best pitches I have done at Red Rock or elsewhere. Incredible slab climbing and just enough to keep you on!
Bolts 7, 8, and 10, at both cruxes, are hard and scary to clip. I led with two long slings on bolts 8 and 10. All the other bolts seem well placed.

The top 7 bolts should be replaced with modern hardware. The bottom 4 bolts have already been replaced.


Location: Colorado
By: Jeff G. When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Just wondering if routes on the Bastille are going to be open for climbing?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: I led this on gear today, and the pro is actually very good. That being said, it was strenuous to place, and I had to top rope first to figure out some of the placements. It's a little finicky right before the crux. The crux itself is protected with a bomber small stopper. This route feels really cool as a trad line. PG-13 rating with the right gear beta.

I used lots of small cams from the tiniest gray C3 up to a #0.75 Camalot plus small to medium stoppers.

This gear ... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Murrin Park : ... : A Prince Among Thieves (5.12b)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: Alex was saying that the sling on the pins needs to be replaced, not the pins themselves.
You can place a blue or yellow metolius just left of the pins if you wanted.
This route is fantastic and the setting is incredible!


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Rambo Santa (5.7)
By: Jeff G. When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Perfect rock and really cool features. This route is pretty damn good, especially for 5.7.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : I Turkey/ Resurrection (5.12a)
By: Jeff G. When: May 24, 2016

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Comments: This is a stunning line! Awesome movement working both sides of the arete and the crack finish is really cool. The crack protects well with #0.3 - #3 Camalots (no #2). The cable anchor atop Whimsical has been replaced with two modern bolts way up and right. Makes for a very abrasive top rope for I Turkey.
The bolts on the route are what appear to be 5/16 buttonheads with SMC hangers. They seem nice and tight, but, I agree, they really should be replaced with modern hardware. Th... more >>


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Sheila (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff G. When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Amazing pitch. I personally would not lead this without the #6 friend. I had one and was really glad to have protection on the burly lieback moves up top.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: I have contacted Rossiter via email, and he is in favor of updating the bolts. He did state that he would like to be involved in the process and suggested he may want to move the location of one or two of the bolts.
Maybe we could have a group replacement effort next summer. The job seems like a lot for one individual to take on.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: This is one of my favorite routes in the Park, or anywhere, for that matter! Great exposure, beautiful rock, and incredible alpine setting.
The crux moves are well-protected by the pin, as others have stated, but I think it's a huge sandbag to call this route 10-. The crux is very tenuous and thin for several moves to clip the pin and then move above it to the good hand jam. I've climbed this route 13 times over the years, and I've never found the 10- sequence! I call it solid for 10c. Just my ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Home Bruin (5.13-)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The entire bottom of this route fell off!!! Massive chunks of rock the size of buses are lying at the bottom of the cliff. The first three bolts fell off. I crawled under one of the fallen blocks and pulled two draws off the bolts! The most unusual booty I've ever collected.
The routes to the left and right seem ok, but it's pretty sobering to see the amount of fresh rock lying at the bottom of this cliff.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Amazing capture of the Gorge!


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: Nice!


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Trojan Bunny Buttress : The Bucket List (5.11a)
By: Jeff G. When: Aug 6, 2015

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Comments: Great pitch! But closer to 11d than 11a.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Jeff G. When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: Great climb, one of my favorites in the Park.

The bolts are starting to look pretty bad. Almost all the bolts are completely rusted.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Ironsides : Alloy Madness (5.10d)
By: Jeff G. When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: All bolts on this route look suspect to me and are totally rusted through. Looks liked mixed metal corrosion (Galvanic corrosion).


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : ... : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Jan 24, 2015

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Comments: I really hope that I'm missing something here! Sketchy!


Location: Nevada : Mt. Wilson (muderlak art) : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: That's awesome!!


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 12 - Wildcat Falls & Above ... : Tales of Power (5.12b) : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Sep 20, 2014

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Comments: Did you mean "most bomber cam in the valley"?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Jeff G. When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Maybe I just wasn't climbing well, but this does not seem like a good introductory 5.11 for Eldo. Seems very hard at the grade.
The pin seems ok, but it certainly isn't bomber. This is a heads up and difficult lead.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: It's Outer Space


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Amazing! The colors and perspective are incredible (not to mention the climber sans rope!).
Really well done.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Freischutz : Street Hassle (5.12c)
By: Jeff G. When: Jun 7, 2014

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Comments: Nice route! New first bolt protects the crux perfectly. No stick clip needed.
After the crux moves, the climb eases off to nice, 11-, slab climbing.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Photo
By: Jeff G. When: Jul 12, 2013

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Comments: Nice! That's what it's all about, right there.


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