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Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Crest Jewel (North Dome), with the Northwest...


Member Since: May 25, 2007
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
Contact Jeff Dunbar

Jeff Dunbar
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Point Rank: # 690
Total Points: 1,149
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 0
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 923 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 192 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 16 | Stars 633 | Ratings 38
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Orchard Wall : Triple Treat (5.10b)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: This is one of those excellent climbs where the on-sight is likely going to be WAY harder for most folks than the redpoint due to the trickery required at the low crux. It ain't obvious, but its great fun!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : K: Northern Region : Silver Lake : Potter Mountain Cliff
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Aug 11, 2016

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Comments: Many thanks to all the trail builders and route developers who did such a nice job opening this beautiful new crag a few years back. This place is awesome and deserves much more traffic!

Also, many thanks to Dom R for all the cairn-building and for posting the enhanced approach beta here on MP.com. My partner and I had no problem following Dom's directions during our first visit the other day (sans guidebook). You really did all visiting climbers a solid, Dom. Nice work, bud... more >>


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Linn Cove Lullaby (5.10a)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Nice route with much less wandering than Airly Gardens. P2 crux is a one-move wonder. We rapped straight to the ground off the top anchors with a single 70M.


Location: NC : Ship Rock : Main Tier : Airlie Gardens (5.9)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Nice route with lots of variety, but its hard to imagine this is the best 5.9 in the state. Also, as my partner discovered, the P1 crux is MUCH harder for shorter people (<5'3"). Next time I'd do this in one pitch using lots of long slings. We rapped straight to the ground off the adjacent anchors for Linn Cove Lullaby with a single 70M.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: 4 or 5 BD #3s??? Nah. This nice route can be safely protected with two 2-inch cams, two 3-inch cams, one 4-inch cam (circa mid height after the roof), and a medium/large nut or .75-inch cam at the lip of the mini roof.

I'd say this is a great one for those breaking into the grade and/or learning to hand/fist-jam. The initial stemming corner is sweet, and there are many good stances outside the crack from which to place pro on the upper half too. The last few moves are enjoyably scruffy, b... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Sep 13, 2015

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Comments: Ok, folks, sorry if I sandbagged a few of you by downplaying the challenges of the approach in my original description above, but for the record I am just delighted to see that so many people have now used this page to plan for (or whine about) a real adventure day at this almost-forgotten frontcountry crag.

At this point, let's just all agree that the hike to/from this crag can either be a piece of cake or a heinous bushwacking nightmare depending on the local trail conditions at the time you ... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Meadow River Gorge : Upper Meadow : Second Buttress : Rodent's Party (5.10c)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: The New River Rock Vol 2 guidebook gives this one a 10c rating with only two stars, but this climb felt softer and more fun than that. Maybe the 10c rating assumes no stepping off the main wall onto the top of the huge block at mid height?


Location: OH
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Hi, I am moving to Hudson, OH, in mid July and I am looking for serious training partners to get back in shape for many climbing trips to the New and the Red this fall. Any suggestions for where I should go (in person and/or online) to meet others in NE Ohio who are serious about training for outdoor climbing? 

I can lead easy 5.10 sport/trad off the couch, but I hope to be leading hard 5.11 trad/sport by the end of the year. Multiple training partners are welcome! PM me if interested...


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Fantastic (5.9 PG13)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Climbed this awesome route yesterday. It was great fun.

Be advised that there are currently two pairs of bolts (one old/manky, and one new/shiny, in each spot) at the P1 and P2 anchors, and the P2 anchor is located way left, at the right end of a huge sloping ledge system that arcs across the top of an equally huge overhung amphitheater below/left of the P1 belay. Don't be fooled by the topo in the NC Select guide, which makes this pitch look shorter and more verical than it really is.

Many t... more >>


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Banana Breath (5.10a R)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Oct 23, 2012

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Comments: I'd like to try this route, but I dislike the idea of trusting my life and my partner's life to a one-bolt belay station. There's just nothing redundant about that.

It seems like it would be safer to just combine pitches and simulclimb as necessary above the P1 belay bolt.

Is there any reason not to do this?


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Courtright Reservoir : Power Dome : A Little Nukey (5.9) : Photo
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jan 26, 2012

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Comments: Hey, that's Jill from SLO! - Hi Jill!


Location: North America : Canada : Alberta : Kananaskis : Mount Indefatigable : ... : Photo
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Dec 25, 2011

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Comments: Nice shot, dude! :)


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Photo
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Mar 21, 2011

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Comments: where is this exactly?


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Riverside Quarry : (q) Agony Arch Area : Agony Arch (5.11b)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Dec 10, 2010

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Comments: Is it possible to access the anchor from above to set up a toprope on this climb?


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Future Games Rock : Disappearing Act (5.10c)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: I topdogged this route yesterday after climbing Invisibilty Lessons and I was pleasantly surprised to find myself having a ball on this thin, sharp, steep face. Kudos to those who bolted (and re-bolted) the original line - as far as I can tell, all the cruxy moves are perfectly protected.

This route certainly deserves more traffic than it likely gets.


Location: CO : Vote for the REEL ROCK Tour...
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Aug 10, 2010

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Comments: Ha! Tough call, but I gave the nod to Top Rope Tough Guys. The assisted dyno is classic, and the anchor demo is just flat out impressive....

That said, congrats to all the amateur filmmakers who made the finals - watching all 9 videos was a great waste of 18 minutes!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : Escape Rock : Emotional Rescue (5.12a)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Aug 4, 2010

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Comments: This looks like it could be a fun one for a Top Rope Tough Guy like me.... Can this one be safely TR'd? What's the anchor situation on top? (and is there an easy way to get up there?)


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jun 6, 2010

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Comments: Consolation is a great climb, but I just want to cast one more vote for the alternative start via P1-2 of Constellation. Did this yesterday and it was awesome - an excellent way to add some extra spice (and ~200 ft of quality climbing) to an already great route.

P.S. If you try this variation, the guidebook says to go left (around the corner to a crack) at the solitary bolt. That worked well for me!


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sycamore Canyon : Paradise Forks : The Jungle Wall : Aqualung (5.10)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: May 17, 2010

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Comments: As a first-time visitor to the area, I would describe this as a must-do route. Also, with a decent length of cord and a 70M rope, it is extremely easy to set up a TR/rap anchor by slinging the knobby summit block of the pillar that sticks up from the rim directly above this route.


Location: Oceania : New Zealand : North Island : Wharepapa South
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Dec 19, 2009

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Comments: Bryce Martin - As a climber, he's a living legend. As a person, he's all that and more... and I concur his wife does make wonderful pies.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Fancy Free (5.10)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Sep 11, 2009

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Comments: I've climbed this excellent route twice now, and of course the classic second pitch was well worth it both times.

On my second outing, however, I was VERY tempted to explore a rumored variation for the last pitch which (I think) climbs the sick-looking, right-facing corner to the right of the original P3.

This corner looks clean and thin and steep at the start, and then the angle eases off rapidly near the top. It looks like it tops out 20-30 ft to the right of the standard finish.

Supp... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Hair Lip (5.10a)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: I lead this fantastic route for the third time yesterday and I learned something important: the initial path from the crack to the first bolt is WAY easier (and safer) if you leave the crack at its mid point and take more of a direct line straight up using face holds and the arete on the right.

If you stay in the initial crack til it ends, you will indeed be looking at a sketchy 5.9 traverse to the first bolt which is just as bad for the follower as it is for the leader.

I have also fallen a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : (o) Right of the Escalator : Hot Buttered Rump (5.10a)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: HBR makes for a great intro to the bizarre, thrutchy business of technical chimney climbing. Fortunately you can TR this one easily with a top belay by first leading Hair Lip (exciting) and then moving right 10 ft to the rap anchors for HBR.

Just lower your partner down from the top and then enjoy listening to him/her suffer on the way back up (the sound carries REALLY well straight up the chimney to your cushy belay ledge).

Do it this way and you will become VERY familiar with one of the ... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - South Face : Out on a Limb (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Mar 16, 2009

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Comments: Tried this for the first time today. I'm 5'8" and the start would require me to highstep my foot to my navel and then stand on it. With no hands. 10b? Sheesh...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.9)
By: Jeff Dunbar When: Jun 29, 2007

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Comments: Ok, just did Royal Arches last weekend. Awesome experience (highly recomend taking advantage of the bivy spot with the freshwater spring at the top for a most memorable night in Yosemite). Regarding my previous 2x60M vs. 1x70M rope question, I can now say with confidence that one 70M rope would've made for MUCH faster/easier climbing in the summer heat. We came across two other parties who were able to link more pitches than us with their 70M rope, and I guarantee I would've climbed faster if... more >>


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