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Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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jay davis
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Point Rank: # 10,436
Total Points: 40

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has jay davis been climbing?


All 558 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts | Stars 432 | Ratings 109

Contributed Comments


Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Main Cliff Right > Charity Case (5.9) > Photo
By: jay davis When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Unless it was Gold Digger into the finish of Goldbug, I think it's pretty likely that you were even further to the right - maybe Charity Case?

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Balcony
By: jay davis When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: I was on the ledge near Orange Crush (the climb) when it happened, so I'm not entirely sure where the rock came from or how it got loose - it may have been something that was kicked over the edge or sent flying by a pulled rope.

It looks like a lot of work was put into cleaning these routes, and I really look forward to giving them a try soon. I just wanted to make it clear that you can't let your guard down if you choose to climb there - you have to be very aware of the situation below you ... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Balcony
By: jay davis When: Sep 5, 2015

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Comments: It was mentioned it the description, but I'd like to reiterate how important it is to be extremely careful while hanging out in this area, especially on a busy day. In addition to lots of little stuff, there was at least one very serious block dislodged today that landed in the vicinity of the Black Mamba belay area. I'd strongly recommend climbing elsewhere if there's any sort of crowd near the lower routes of Orange Crush.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Main Cliff > Working Man (5.7)
By: jay davis When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: short but kind of fun. i thought the protection was decent, but i could easily imagine it feeling pg-13 depending on the state of lichen overgrowth.

i went to the right at the top and finished at the anchors of fat man. i agree that it might be nice to have an independent anchor for this one, as it would give people a nice trad/TR option without adding a lot of bolts to the face.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Main Cliff Right > Tipping Point (5.8)
By: jay davis When: May 19, 2015

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Comments: This is a really enjoyable climb. The second pitch is great - it's relatively short but has a fun slab section that brings you to the cruxy steep moves that guard the anchors.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The Prudential > Machine Head (5.11d) > Photo
By: jay davis When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: not sure i trust the photo credit... looks like something scanned out of a climbing textbook to me.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Main Cliff Right > Get It On (5.12c/d)
By: jay davis When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: The well-chalked lefthand sidepull knob near the start of this route (above and to the left of the first bolt) was flexing quite a bit yesterday. I'd suggest treading very lightly if you choose to use it, especially as a foot; it's not in a spot where you'd want to be surprised by a broken hold.

It might be secure enough to last a while (I'm not great at assessing this sort of stuff), but to the untrained eye it looked pretty iffy. And at any rate, the route goes fine without it, you just n... more >>

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Venus Wall > Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c)
By: jay davis When: Oct 22, 2013

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Comments: Was it one of crimps to the left of the bolt above the roof (where the Neptune linkup meets Venus), or one of the holds near the next bolt? A friend and I were on it Sunday and didn't notice anything broken, and it felt about the same to me as it did two weeks ago (really hard).

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > The G-Spot > Lichen Lickin (5.10d)
By: jay davis When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: i agree with the description and comments - the route looks pretty casual from the ground, but it can get desperate in a hurry up top, especially with the lichen overgrowth that makes it tough to find holds. very tricky to onsight.

i stayed to the right at the third bolt after pawing around on the left side for a bit - it felt about 10d/11a the way i did it, but i would not be surprised to learn that i missed some marginally better holds out left.

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > Monsters from the Id > Abominable Snowman (5.11b)
By: jay davis When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: FYI, this route still only has one anchor, and it's a spinner (as is the bolt below it).

edit: apparently this has been fixed. a big thank you to the person responsible for putting in the time and effort to make this route safe!

Location: New Hampshire > *Rumney > New Wave > Smokestack (5.9+)
By: jay davis When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: Did I overlook a bolt in the middle section? I only counted 8 to the anchor, and there was a pretty sizable runout on the easier ground after the first chimney.

Location: Iowa > Pictured Rocks > A Wall > Super Fly (5.11b)
By: jay davis When: Sep 7, 2009

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Comments: The giant flake is pretty sketchy right now, and should definitely be avoided.

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