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Member Since: Apr 6, 2009
Last Visit: Apr 3, 2017
Contact jay davis

jay davis
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Point Rank: # 7,241
Total Points: 40

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has jay davis been climbing?










Contributions


All 511 | Routes 1 | Areas 1 | Photos 3 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts | Stars 397 | Ratings 97
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Unknown

V3 6A (1)

Boulder, 10'

Iowa : Palisades Kepler State Park : Boat Ramp Boulder (Roadside...

Aug 3, 2009

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Boat Ramp Boulder (Roadside Attraction?)

Iowa : Palisades Kepler State Park

Aug 3, 2009

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: tyson cranking through some of the less than ideal...

tyson cranking through some of the less than ideal holds on the v9 variation

New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : Zig-Zag Crack Variation (V9)

Jun 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: sean moving into the crux, may '15

sean moving into the crux, may '15

New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : Plate Tectonics (5.12d)

Jun 16, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: getting started

getting started

Iowa : Palisades Kepler State Park : ... : Unknown (V3)

Aug 3, 2009

Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Charity Case (5.9) : Photo
By: jay davis When: Apr 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Unless it was Gold Digger into the finish of Goldbug, I think it's pretty likely that you were even further to the right - maybe Charity Case?


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Balcony
By: jay davis When: Sep 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I was on the ledge near Orange Crush (the climb) when it happened, so I'm not entirely sure where the rock came from or how it got loose - it may have been something that was kicked over the edge or sent flying by a pulled rope.

It looks like a lot of work was put into cleaning these routes, and I really look forward to giving them a try soon. I just wanted to make it clear that you can't let your guard down if you choose to climb there - you have to be very aware of the situation below you ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Balcony
By: jay davis When: Sep 5, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It was mentioned it the description, but I'd like to reiterate how important it is to be extremely careful while hanging out in this area, especially on a busy day. In addition to lots of little stuff, there was at least one very serious block dislodged today that landed in the vicinity of the Black Mamba belay area. I'd strongly recommend climbing elsewhere if there's any sort of crowd near the lower routes of Orange Crush.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Working Man (5.7)
By: jay davis When: Aug 7, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: short but kind of fun. i thought the protection was decent, but i could easily imagine it feeling pg-13 depending on the state of lichen overgrowth.

i went to the right at the top and finished at the anchors of fat man. i agree that it might be nice to have an independent anchor for this one, as it would give people a nice trad/TR option without adding a lot of bolts to the face.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Tipping Point (5.8)
By: jay davis When: May 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a really enjoyable climb. The second pitch is great - it's relatively short but has a fun slab section that brings you to the cruxy steep moves that guard the anchors.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Prudential : Machine Head (5.11d) : Photo
By: jay davis When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: not sure i trust the photo credit... looks like something scanned out of a climbing textbook to me.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get It On (5.12c/d)
By: jay davis When: Jul 12, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The well-chalked lefthand sidepull knob near the start of this route (above and to the left of the first bolt) was flexing quite a bit yesterday. I'd suggest treading very lightly if you choose to use it, especially as a foot; it's not in a spot where you'd want to be surprised by a broken hold.

It might be secure enough to last a while (I'm not great at assessing this sort of stuff), but to the untrained eye it looked pretty iffy. And at any rate, the route goes fine without it, ... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Venus Wall : Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c)
By: jay davis When: Oct 22, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Was it one of crimps to the left of the bolt above the roof (where the Neptune linkup meets Venus), or one of the holds near the next bolt? A friend and I were on it Sunday and didn't notice anything broken, and it felt about the same to me as it did two weeks ago (really hard).


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : The G-Spot : Lichen Lickin (5.10d)
By: jay davis When: Jul 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: i agree with the description and comments - the route looks pretty casual from the ground, but it can get desperate in a hurry up top, especially with the lichen overgrowth that makes it tough to find holds. very tricky to onsight.

i stayed to the right at the third bolt after pawing around on the left side for a bit - it felt about 10d/11a the way i did it, but i would not be surprised to learn that i missed some marginally better holds out left.


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Abominable Snowman (5.11b)
By: jay davis When: Jun 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: FYI, this route still only has one anchor, and it's a spinner (as is the bolt below it).

edit: apparently this has been fixed. a big thank you to the person responsible for putting in the time and effort to make this route safe!


Location: New Hampshire : *Rumney : New Wave : Smokestack (5.9+)
By: jay davis When: Sep 16, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Did I overlook a bolt in the middle section? I only counted 8 to the anchor, and there was a pretty sizable runout on the easier ground after the first chimney.


Location: Iowa : Pictured Rocks : A Wall : Super Fly (5.11b)
By: jay davis When: Sep 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The giant flake is pretty sketchy right now, and should definitely be avoided.


Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Hangman V4+ 6B+

Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : East Side- Backbone Ridge

Out Past Curfew V4 6B

Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : Boat Landing Boulders

The Good Times Are Killing Me V2-3 5+

Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : Godfather Boulder

Face Left of Wright's Arete V3 6A

Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : ... : West Side- Backbone Ridge

Slope of Dadaism V3 6A

Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : ... : East of Trail Boulders

Liberal Tendencies 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Iowa : Ozark Wildlife Area : Hoot Bluff

Wasp V2 5+

Alabama : Temp HP40

Asphalt or Pythagorean Theorem V5 6C

Georgia : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders

Golden Shower V5 6C

Georgia : Rocktown : Asphalt Boulders

Green Goblin 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Arkansas : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty

Bird in Hand 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Iowa : Pictured Rocks : Wild Iowa Wall

Grounded For Life V5 6C

Wisconsin : Governor Dodge State Park : Boat Landing Boulders

Metamorphosis 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Zig Zag Crack V1 5

New Hampshire : *Rumney : ... : The Zig Zag Boulder

Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Thin Air 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

New Hampshire : *Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face

Junco 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Clusterphobia 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M...

Jolt 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : The Hinterlands

Overlooked V4 6B

New Hampshire : *Pawtuckaway : Trailside Boulders

Lonesome Dove 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Jimmy Cliff

Millenium Falcon 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Main Cliff

Social Outcast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Bonsai

Apocalypse Later 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Apocalypse Walls

Waimea 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

New Hampshire : *Rumney : Waimea

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