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Member Since: Apr 29, 2010
Last Visit: Dec 7, 2017
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Point Rank: # 107
Total Points: 4,494

9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1731 | Routes 242 | Areas 77 | Approach Trails | Photos 182 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 231 | Posts 10 | Stars 711 | Ratings 275
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 08. Iceberg Area > Inflatable Forearms (5.11d)
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 23, 2017

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Comments: It should also be noted that the FA of this route purposely set the route with no anchor. The routes are so short at Bozoo he expected a topout. Anchors are in now, I suppose, but if you want to climb in the FA's style then keep that in mind!


Location: New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mountains > Nine Corners Lake > Middle Earth > ... > Thorazine (V8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: Ole Thorazine is not tall and bold but gets everything you need in those 11' to be world class. Crimps, tension, crazy beta, send you home crying wet fires, a tough lip that your hands just can't quite hold on to, and a rad mantle finale.

Only in bouldering will you find a line that everyone thinks is classic with a LAY-DOWN start! You might not think your feet are anything to fuss about on the problem with ledges for feet but mind you put a toe in the wrong spot you will immediatel... more >>


Location: New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mountains > Nine Corners Lake > Middle Earth > ... > Andrugen (V1)
By: Jay Shultis When: Oct 6, 2016

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Comments: It's short, but if it wasn't good I would not do it every time I go!


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 08. Iceberg Area > Photo
By: Jay Shultis When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Thx for the info summary sheet. Phat back has always been a mixed route, from what I remember 3 bolts and anchors. Any clue who/why this was retro-bolted? Did they work with the First Ascent party?


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 08. Iceberg Area
By: Jay Shultis When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: There is an established line in that general location called "The Dish" but I believe that may not be what you are referring to. I am not 100% but this may be a top rope that one of the guiding groups from Blacksburg or Radford use. If I recall its a pretty dirty gully like feature. Maybe 5.5 or less.


Location: Tennessee > Stone Fort (aka Little Rock... > The Stand (V1)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Honestly its probably no more than Class 3... being that its a no hands rest! Pretty hard to grade a gimmick, but its there and fun!


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 08. Iceberg Area
By: Jay Shultis When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Can you be more specific on the location? Maybe a picture?


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 08. Iceberg Area > Phat Back (5.8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: That's too bad. Paul, do you know the FA on this one?


Location: New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mountains > Nine Corners Lake > Middle Earth > ... > Pop or Drop (V4)
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: To clarify this is for Pop or Drop Stand. Stand start with Left hand on a cood crimp (or the bad one if you can't reach) and right hand on the arete. Make a couple body tension moves to ledges and a easy, but high topout.


Location: New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mountains > Nine Corners Lake > Middle Earth > ... > Dave's Problem (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Needs a description: SDS on opposing sidepulls at the lowest point of the boulder on the downhill side. Make a couple tough pulls to a jug topout 8' off the ground.


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > 04. Rigor Wall > In Need of Repair (5.8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Paul, Please confirm but based on your notes "Hokie Corner" was the name given as a top-rope. We later led this route, hence the name change.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > McAfee's Knob > Dragon Boulders > Left Dragon > Firedrake (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: Most natural start seemed to be matched on the bottom of the rail. Where her left foot is in this pic: mountainproject.com/v/10736904...

But, if you start further left you can give yourself additional bonus points!

Nice little climb for sure.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Cascadia Area > Cascadia > Accelerated Freefall (V9)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 17, 2015

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Comments:



Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering
By: Jay Shultis When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: The newest Cascades Testpiece, thx to Joe Gruss!




Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Cascadia Area > Clandestine Block > Secret Squirrel (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: I agree with AAron's advice... start low. You can do a formal ass-down SDS for more movement but it's pretty awkward getting going!


Location: Utah > Joe's Valley > New Joe's > Chip and Dale > Chips (V7) > Photo
By: Jay Shultis When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: At the moment this problem has three ridiculous 1+ foot long tick marks on the finishing jug. Pretty unappealing and not removable without a spray bottle and concerted effort. Aesthetics be damned.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Cascadia Area > Small Block > Small block traverse (V3-4)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Does this end on "fun flake"?


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Cascadia Area > Small Block > Immersion (V4)
By: Jay Shultis When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Mind that this whole problem is climbed on a huge detached flake, seems solid though! Very fun.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Cascadia Area > Cascadia > The Asinine Project (V-easy)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 13, 2015

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Comments: Not sure I like the working name for this proposed beauty! If you are using any of the hands from space invaders as hands on this then something is wrong. The idea is to use the marginal slopers up the bulge to finish on the right side of inglorious, not to finish on space invaders. Basically what Metzman said.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > Cascades Bouldering > Title Fight Area > Title Fight Boulder > Journey To Glory (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: This is an amazing problem. The mantle is committing but casual! Once you do the first move it gets easier the rest of the way!


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > Bozoo Bouldering > Project Area > Lyman's Boulder > Zugzwang (V8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: To clarify, Ed says: "I don't remember if I ever did the problem from the sit. I say they should claim the sit if they do it, won't get any argument from me."


Location: West Virginia > Bozoo > Bozoo Bouldering > Main Area Bouldering > A: Pocket Boulder > B. Katty Corner (V3)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Finally got the topo's from Shawn and this one actually has a name. Updated again.


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > McAfee's Knob > Roadside > Reverse Traverse (V6)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: I think every grade from V0-V10 is well covered at this will with this additional problem!


Location: Virginia > Southwest Virginia Region > McAfee's Knob > Roadside > Brooklyn Bridge (V8)
By: Jay Shultis When: Feb 3, 2015

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Comments: FA = Adam Walker 6-22-06 after broken jug.


Location: Texas > Reimer's Ranch > Mai Tai Wall > Tree (5.9+)
By: Jay Shultis When: Jan 27, 2015

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Comments: This is confusing, pretty sure the tree is still there and you start literally in between two branches of it heading up to the first bolt.


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