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Member Since: Oct 18, 2008
Last Visit: Jan 30, 2017
Contact Jay Harrison

Point Rank: # 73
Total Points: 5,470

46 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jay Harrison been climbing?










Contributions


All 1192 | Routes 303 | Areas 74 | Photos 293 | Page Improvements | Comments 74 | Posts 33 | Stars 361 | Ratings 54
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Moxham Mountain : Lower Ridge : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: Red: Yam Jam 5.7
Orange: Mox Me 5.5
Yellow: Upper Hudson Railroad 5.7
Red: Children at Play 5.5


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Beaverview
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 2, 2016

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Comments: NOTE: Rockfall has significantly modified the terrain on the section of cliff containing Drumthwacket. The base is now open - all the trees have been smashed - but rather than a wooded steep slope, it is now a jumble of large boulders and debris. The routes are still climbable, but the trees on the ledge are gone, and the ledge (and stances along the way) is cluttered with debris as well. Be wary of loose material lying on slabs. Finding a viable belay anchor is challenging now.... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Sky High : ... : Solo, Gracias (5.7 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Yes, the original R start is now safer - and avoids the slimy moss corner - via a bolt-protected variation. Free-climbing it involves a 10a friction traverse following a PGish clip of the lowest bolt.
However, if it isn't against your "religion", tension-traversing across using that first bolt to reach the knobs provides a nice 5.7 A0 climb.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : F: The Central Region : Starbuck Mountain : ... : Dark Roast (WI4)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: This is on the same "flow" as Banana Almond Bread, but climbs the ice on the vertical face to the right. Good stuff, though it is often quite thin. FA was in lovely fat condition.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Stand Your Ground (5.7)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: Typos corrected.
Be aware that the a 60m rope *usually* manages this lower/rappel, but old ropes tend to shrink - quite a lot - and may not make it to the base. You can swing over into the gully to climber's right if needed.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Beaverview : Drumthwacket (5.7)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 4, 2015

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Comments: Note that significant rockfall occurred above this and neighboring routes (from Livin' on the Edge to Beat the Crowd ) in Spring 2014. While Drumthwacket was relatively undamaged (there is one 2' spot on the initial crack, about 30' up, that did get hit, but the climbing here is not difficult and the damaged rock is easily avoided), the original belay tree was completely eradicated. There is no natural option for an anchor here. One must now climb an additional 35' to reach ... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Jun 19, 2015

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Comments: This is the third pitch. There's a right-slanting crack on the 30' wall just below that is 5.7 and directly connects the bottom pitch with the one in the picture. Not many people do it - short and often wet - but it's worth a run if it's dry.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Boston (5.5 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Spoiler Alert:
One can do the "Z" Move extruding through the offset offwidth, which entails a crazy lot of effort and sketchy, strenuous gear, or...
Squirm up to the overhang, then reach up and out left on the face. Jugs, stems, and delight. Problem solved.
BITD, this was one of our standard TR setups for teaching newbies. Considering that we were not far graduated from their ranks, we were perhaps unqualified for the position. Anyway, we always squirmed, folded, and mutilated ourselves t... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Low Exposure (5.11-)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: You can add a sit-start under the waist-high roof (or do it as a boulder problem). Just be sure there are no copperheads lying in wait under there! Awkward jamming, stems, and pressure holds.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Historical Footnote: Bob Gilmore is 5'9", which makes that reach pretty desperate...but he has a mythological wingspan of 6'6", putting that key crimp well within his grasp.
Better known for his FA of The Sliding Board with Willie Crowther, Bob also explored a few Adirondack crags back in the day.


Location: Minnesota : Winona, Sugar Loaf
By: Jay Harrison When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: My wife and I, still wet behind our ears in 1983, saw this formation and thought we were getting close to Devil's Tower! After assuring ourselves that Minnesota was a bit too wide for that, we took every turn leading toward the tower in sight, finally making it to Winona.
I recall soloing some peculiar, 3' deep, but only 6" thick, megashelves on the way up to the promontory. My wife chose a more sensible path. At the base of the tower, two guys were installing the lights that have since highligh... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Gamma Ray Arete (5.9+)
By: Jay Harrison When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The problem was that someone had removed the intermediate quicklinks from the system; people were therefore clipping into carabiners that were lying flat on the wall. During a rappel, the 'biners would torque off the surface, imparting a twist to the rope. If more anchor material disappears, it may be necessary to add your own, or (unfortunately) rap off a tree to prevent tangles...which is why removing said gear is not a good thing.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Le Jeur de Bon Heures (5.3 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Sorry for the long delay - I don't check in on all the route comments regularly.
The pro for LJdBH is decent: the first pitch is dirty, so you may have to pull some grass clumps to access good pockets; think Tricams and narrow-headed cams. Second pitch has a small spruce tree to sling near the start. Crux move is getting past it; I believe a cam can be had in the corner crack, but you may have to trust the tree to do the move. There's another 5.3 move pulling onto the main sl... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : F: The Central Region : Crane Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, this FA was just prior to my entrance into the digital era, and apparently Jason's also. I think it was that May that we got our first digital camera.
Nowadays, I take more butt-shots of my climbing partners in one week than I did in my entire life during the film era. Quantity has a quality all its own... (I think it was Trotsky who said that first?).


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : F: The Central Region : Starbuck Mountain : ... : Banana Almond Bread (WI4)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: Lukasz or Ben: Is this the leftmost, long fat ice at Starbuck Right? It seems this route and the next are on the same flow, one taking the left notch, the other a more direct approach straight up the longest continuous flow on its right side. Is this correct? If so, did you send anything on the fat flow to the right (which goes through the summer route Perseiid)? There appear to be two possible rts there as well: the left going through a narrow curtain/pillar up a bulging face, the righ... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Spiral Staircase (5.6)
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: This needs to be cleaned again. Some of the detritus scraped off Misty Mtn Hop landed in this route's main feature.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Misty Mountain Hop (5.8)
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: This is filthy, otherwise it would warrant a couple stars.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Measles Walls : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: The right flank of the Lower Measles Wall currently (2013) holds the only collection of 100% bolted (i.e. "Sport") routes on Crane Mountain. And they are pretty sporty at that: improper clipping or belay can result in ground falls. In general, do NOT attempt to clip a bolt unless your feet are solid (good luck with that here), and do NOT attempt clipping overhead - very, very bad idea in most cases. And belay studiously.
Please be aware that these routes are HARD for most folks on their first vi... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Thank you, Ken, this is correct. Honestly, the nomenclature for the summit cliffs is awful. The Summit's Diagonal Wall turns out to be little more than a boundary between two other areas, across which at least one route goes - meaning it traverses *3* "walls". It's a symptom of the haphazard development up there over two decades. We hope to remedy that problem before the next edition of the Adirondack Rock Guidebook.
The Diagonal Ramp Wall is an appropria... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : F: The Central Region : Starbuck Mountain : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: This is Starbuck Central's Right end. Routes are between 60 and 80' tall.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Good beta photo for several routes:

-The left-facing corner at the end of the traverse of Outpatient (and a variation to Recuperation Bvd) is visible on the left side of the photo.

- The vertical crack directly below the outside corner belongs to Adk Rehab

- The vertical seam to right of center marks Scaredy Cat

- and the long vertical crack on the right edge of the photo is Lane Change.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Kudos on this pic, Ben. It's gorgeous.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: There is no variation of this route beginning below the Patio.
The Direct Variation is (IMHO) 5.12a and begins at the Patio directly below the route's crack line. Climb up the short slab to reach the beginning of the crack - here it is more of a seam - and continue all the way up. The beginning 15' are very technical & sequential. The pro, while adequate, is very strenuous to place and requires care and skill to place properly. One placement is effectively blind, and is critical to do right. Imp... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : F: The Central Region : Crane Mountain : ... : West Coast Connection (WI4- M4 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Great to see this getting done. What brought you to Crane? Did you get a chance to climb Providence and Fifi's as well?


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Raindance Roof (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 24, 2012

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Comments: The "sketchy" spot does have fairly decent pro if you have the right cam and search around.
V2 is excellent, sustained 5.6 climbing with decent gear; just needs better cleanup at the start.


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