REI Community


Member Since: Sep 3, 2001
Last Visit: Jul 29, 2014
Contact Jason Nelson

Jason Nelson
is a member of
Point Rank: # 1,303
Total Points: 645

109 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Nelson been climbing?










Contributions


All 198 | Routes 20 | Areas 7 | Approach Trails | Photos 68 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 4 | Stars 36 | Ratings 6
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes > The Wisdom (5.11d R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 6, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: I had been scared of this route for a long time, and finally tried it. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but most of what is said about the route is true. Here is some gear beta. You might use different gear, but this will give you an idea of what to bring.

P1 - blue Alien (or #0 Metolius), #1 Metolius, small stoppers, and quickdraws. P2 (roof) - 2 quick draws is all you need. P3 (crux) - #00 Metolius, 2 #2 Camalots for falling off the crux, #1 Camalot, #3 Camalot, and quickdraws. P4 (Psycho ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Darkness 'til Dawn (5.10a)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 3, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Keep in mind that you need two ropes to get down (unless you have a 70m rope). Summer '02 there was an accident here and I know someone that also let the end of the rope slip through the belay device and caught it with one had. Yikes!


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > The Contest (5.11d)
By: Jason Nelson When: Jan 3, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: Shorter climbers may want to stick clipt he first bolt, but taller ones can clip it while still standing on the ramp. Climbing through the crux is thrilling as you're leaving the bolt behind you with a bit of a pump and a fall would result in a good swinger if you've passed the crux. Good sports action for the spectators.


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > South Rim Routes > Astro Dog (5.11+)
By: Jason Nelson When: Sep 5, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Well, looks like I stirred up quite the controversy! I think some of you guys might monitor this site a little closely. As to the 5.11- pitch. There is a fixed head and an old bolt protecting the crux. The head looks OK, and the bolt belongs in a museum. It's a rusted out leeper hanger (remember those got recalled), with what looks like a nail holding it in. My partner led the pitch a totally sowed it up. Following the pitch, I wasn't sure what kind of weight the gear would hold, but I do... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Genius Loci (5.11d)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I've done the edge a number of times, and enjoyed the route (genius loci) as something different from the original edge start. I thought it was fun arete and face climbing in a spectacular postion. As to the controversy, I probably wasn't even rock climbing yet when it occured.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... > Roving for Love (5.11c R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Hang a long runner on the bolt on the roof of Rover so that your second can do the moves. Otherwise the bolts at their feet once they pull the moves and the rope is pulling them back off the roof. Also, long arms are useful to clip this bolt for the leader. I think the bolt is in a bad place (better than no bolt however).


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > T2 (5.11a R)
By: Jason Nelson When: Nov 18, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Keep in mind the "scramble" to get to Ruper is about 2 pitches (300 ft.)


Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About