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Member Since: Apr 30, 2012
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Jason Kim

Point Rank: # 2,993
Total Points: 255

24 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Kim been climbing?










Contributions


All 595 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 53 | Posts 293 | Stars 168 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > The Sentinel > The Sentinel - East Face > Ball Bearing (5.10a)
By: Jason Kim When: Nov 19, 2017

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Comments: Only did the first pitch, which is very sustained and protects well. Harder than expected!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Quail Springs Area > Hound Rock > Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Jason Kim When: Nov 19, 2017

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Comments: Great climb and quick approach (10 minutes on level ground). Looks much harder than it climbs! Wonderful stances and pro, get on it!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... > Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Jason Kim When: Nov 19, 2017

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Comments: We scrambled up to the ledge unroped to start the climb, which I would call 4th class (or even easy 5th, depending on which crack system you take to get there). The stance leaves something to be desired, and it isn't a great place to flake the rope and tie in. If you want to move quick and feel comfortable soloing the first "pitch", I'd recommend flaking the rope on the ground and having the follower for the first real pitch (the 10a business) run up to the ledge, build a quick anchor in the c... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face > Sexy Grandma (5.9)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 11, 2017

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Comments: Todd, I am not in a position to add to the debate whether this route needs another bolt, just wanted to give everyone a head's up. I have clipped many of your bolts over the years - thanks for the hard work.

I was able to yard in a foot or two of slack as the piton pulled, and as he kept falling, I threw myself down to the ground. Pretty sure he would have decked, otherwise. I can't say whether the hard catch contributed to the pin pulling - it all happened so fast and I was trying to... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Real Hidden Valley > The Sentinel > The Sentinel - East Face > Fote Hog (5.6)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: Reading through these comments leaves me confused. Didn't encounter anything R rated or tricky to protect. I ran it out here and there, but only because the climbing was super mellow and a fall seemed impossible.

I followed the line shown in the newer Gaines guide (Best Climbs Joshua Tree Nat'l Park) and it went smooth and safe. The traverse felt like 5.4 across big footholds. Bring some long slings and do it in one pitch as others have recommended. The patina face and crack at the ... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Echo Cove > Echo Cove - East Side > Hatfield Arete (5.9-)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: I started up with a #3 and decided I didn't want to pull through the crack with only one piece between me and the ground, went back and got my #4, and felt very well protected using fists to make it over the ledge. The upper section will take another smaller piece or two. There were some thoughtful moves, but there are bolts where you need them.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Split Rocks > Future Games Rock > Continuum (5.8+)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: I did Invisibility Lessons prior to this, and believe IL is a tick more difficult, but Continuum felt more sustained and awkward due to the angle. A super fun climb though, and more enjoyable. Crux is probably the very start, protects great and positive jams or locks whenever you really need them.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > The Old Woman > The Old Woman - West Face > Sexy Grandma (5.9)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: Update 10/8/17. My partner slipped just below the roof (hadn't yet clipped the 2nd bolt), pulled the pin below and took a 20 footer. Came very close to decking, actually banged his knee on the ground due to rope stretch. The pin appeared to be in good shape prior.

So, if you've read through all the above and expect a totally benign clip-up, you could be in for a surprise.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Area > Dozier Dome > Isostacy (5.8 R)
By: Jason Kim When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: I avoid R-rated climbs and would have steered clear of this one, had I seen the rating and comments here. It was definitely a bit run out in sections and I took extra care when placing pro, but I felt that it protected well and was safe. I was able to find good stances wherever I needed them. The interesting mix of slab, features, and cracks was great for a climb at this grade and I would recommend it to anyone who is fairly confident at the 5.8 level.


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Pywiack Area > Pywiak Dome > Zee Tree (5.7)
By: Jason Kim When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: We linked the first two pitches with a 70 m rope. Belay was from the obvious ledge about 30' up the 3rd class slab. Climb the 4th class first pitch - no pro so just keep moving toward the anchor and don't look down! Clip the anchor and then go from bolt to bolt til you reach the 2nd anchor, which will be out of view until you are almost there, to your right. Grade felt on par with Joshua Tree slab, but different and perhaps less confidence inspiring! The rock is more featured, but al... more >>


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Left Wall > Urge to Merge (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Kim When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Fun and worth doing, feels pretty stiff for 10a IMO


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > Blue Sky Wall > Buffalo Brothers (5.8-)
By: Jason Kim When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: The route description might confuse some. This climb starts well up the ramp, which is 5-easy and passes a couple of bolts and a rap station on the way up. Clip these for pro and keep an eye out for the anchor on the left, about 150' up.

The next two pitches are easily linked together with a 60 m rope, and probably should be, unless you enjoy a semi-hanging belay. Even with quickdraws, it's basically straight up and there's no rope drag, so no real reason to pitch it out.

Yo... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Hidden Valley Campground > Cyclops Rock > The Eye (5.4)
By: Jason Kim When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: 5.4 sounds about right to me. If you're a new-ish climber with mostly indoor experience, it will probably feel harder than that. I'll go with the PG-13 rating, since the pro is sparse and there are definitely sections where falling isn't an option.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... > Rewritten (5.7)
By: Jason Kim When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: My first visit to Eldo and Rewritten left me disappointed. Did the Great Zot start which was just OK. The 4th pitch traverse was really cool but also super short. The amount of choss, whether it be the hollow flakes or the loose rocks/blocks all over the belay stances left me feeling pretty uneasy.

To be fair, a thunderstorm rolled in and we ended up blasting through the top and missed the arete, which looked pretty fun. Had fun on the descent with some lightning and a rattlesnake as we dropped... more >>


Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress > Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: Jason Kim When: Jun 2, 2015

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Comments: Finally got on the Flower, and it lived up to expectations. Very intimidating when you see it from afar, but less so once you're under it. I felt it was fairly stout for the grade, but eats pro and has key rests where you need them. I used most of my double rack of C4's, and a few nuts. Saved a #2 and #3 up top for the anchor, along with a big nut. My partner belayed at the top of the gulley, anchoring by slinging two horns and placing a lower cam to prevent an upwards pull - this saves most you... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Split Rocks > Isles in the Sky > Bird of Fire (5.10a)
By: Jason Kim When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Is there a better "first Josh 10a" out there? It's mine and I have no regrets.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Touch and Go Face > Touch and Go (5.9)
By: Jason Kim When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: What an excellent climb.. I really had to work for this one but got it clean, and that's after sending Bird of Fire which felt almost casual in comparison. A very stiff 5.9 but it eats pro and felt totally safe throughout. Harder than Pope's for sure.


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - South Face > Pope's Crack (5.9)
By: Jason Kim When: Mar 22, 2015

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Comments: Great route, having just done Touch and Go I would say this is definitely the easier of the two. Pope's has better stances and is less sustained, but longer and the traverse is exciting (but relatively trivial if you made it that far).


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley Pinnacles > ... > Brewed Awakening (5.11b)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Was also stumped on the start (11b?!) but then figured it out by using a decent right crimp as the starting hold to approach the first bolt. Very thin set of opening moves, regardless. After gaining the flake, it eases way off and you'll get a nice stance to get a couple of pieces in, when you reach the crack. I sewed it up, using everything from a blue Alien to a gold Camalot. Protects very well, and definitely worth doing if you brought your rack. As mentioned, cleaning is a pain.


Location: California > San Bernardino Mountains > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley Pinnacles > ... > Lunar Eclipse (5.11a)
By: Jason Kim When: Oct 12, 2014

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Comments: Super fun and a Holcomb standout if you enjoy delicate slab. Crux (last 2 bolts) is well protected and gym climbers will find it very difficult, if not used to this sort of climbing. Much easier down low with several big rest stances, do it!


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... > Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: Jason Kim When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: 1st pitch felt like 5.4, super relaxed and several options to approach the ledge. 2nd pitch protects great and felt 5.7-ish to me, nuts worked great and I didn't even reach for a cam (gasp!). 3rd pitch is definitely the money pitch, whether you lead or follow. The downward traverse, if you take it, is fun and different. 4 pitch, if you do it, is easy and over in 2 minutes. All sorts of anchor options up top, I wedged myself behind a yucca and slung the rope around a little horn as a backup.... more >>


Location: California > Joshua Tree National Park > Lost Horse Area > Dairy Queen Wall > Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... > Bill's Nuts (5.7)
By: Jason Kim When: Mar 4, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. You can get 3-4 good pieces in to keep you from decking and then run the top out, where the climbing gets easier and there isn't much to be found.


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > Valley of the Moon > Patina Wall > (Unknown) (5.10c)
By: Jason Kim When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: This route would be more fun if it saw more traffic. The rock is crumbly down low, and the entire climb is covered in exfoliating granules that made for some very spicy moves. The crack is harder than it looks, but takes gear well.


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth > Easy Rider (5.7)
By: Jason Kim When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: Just climbed this one again after a few years. My partner (new leader) bailed after the 2nd bolt. It's no gimme at 5.7, and the big ledges and bad landing put you in the no-fall zone for much of the climb.


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Limbo Area > Standard Deviation (5.10b)
By: Jason Kim When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: The terrible landing and committing moves down low make for one intimidating lead! Felt stiff for .10b.


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