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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 6353 | Routes 439 | Areas 120 | Approach Trails 17 | Photos 1110 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 669 | Posts 598 | Stars 2013 | Ratings 1385
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > The Sponge > Pumping Huecos (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jesse, I moved the anchors down and placed a new fifth bolt a few years ago.

A local climber friend upgraded the chains and steel biners on the existing (lowered) anchors last summer. But they weren't painted and were quite shiny. Because it's a high-hiker-traffic area I didn't care for the shiny anchor chain/biners so I swapped them out a couple weekends ago with painted hardware. That's probably what you noticed most recently.


Location: New Mexico > Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Confession: T'was me that placed those Austrialpin steel ovals in 2008/2009 on many routes at the Tower. As DisturbingThePeace said, the rating is higher than many oval screw links used to secure chains or other lowering hardware on most sport routes and I've not heard accounts of any screw link failures.

I wouldn't consider these biners viable for lead-climbing protection. But I'm very comfortable with the thought of lowering off 10kn steel biners because the redundancy of two biners supporti... more >>


Location: Forums > Colorado > The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... > Post > Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: climbing.com/news/ski-flatiron...


Location: New Mexico > Truth or Consequences Area > Caballo Lake > Bat Cave Area > Tufa Wall > Tufa Consequences (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Great name!


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Leaning Tower > Tupelo Chain Sex (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: This past weekend I extended the route by two bolts and installed a two bolt anchor. The left chain on the anchor could use one more screw link to orient the carabiner properly to avoid rope twisting (I'll take a link next time I go up there.)
I hoped to put real hangers on the bolts but the bolts were much too big for my standard hole hangers. It may require drilling new holes, unfortunately.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > The Wart > Something Big & Lovely (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: No problem Mike. It might could have been interesting climbing up and left to the top but it would take a lot of brushing and cleaning and I'm not sure it would have been worthy. I chatted with Cam Burns last week about the route before putting in the anchors and he was cool with anchors being added but didn't think any new lead protection bolts would be necessary so straight up it was!


Location: New Mexico
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Hi David, locals further to the south than me may have other suggestions but you'll be a couple hours from The Tunnel and 2.5 hours from Last Chance Canyon both of which could be nice in March.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > The Wart > Something Big & Lovely (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I had enough fun on this route last summer to motivate enough to install a two-bolt anchor on the route today. I considered going up and left with the anchor but the rock was really punky that way so the anchor is straight up a few feet from the last (fourth) bolt.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Cattle Call Wall Area > Paranoia (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 19, 2015

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Comments: I don't have a photo of it Mikey but from your description and mine here, I'd say were talking about the same route. Any idea who bolted it and/or had the FA? Thanks.


Location: New Mexico > El Rito > Little River Wall > Main Wall > Busted By Dewey (5.10b) > Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 23, 2014

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Comments: Ha, sharp eye again John! I do recall at least one other teasing incident. Funny, this is a topic I hammer home to people each year that I teach the LA Mountaineers climbing school leading/seconding class. I didn't see the climber in this shot doing it and didn't notice it until just now. Those tiny LCD screens!
We've been lucky to find some decent quality rock around Northern NM in the past couple of years and I'm psyched to see the ro... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Winter Wall > Gopher Broke (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 19, 2014

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Comments: With an 80m rope it is possible to lower/TR the entire route but just barely (hooray for stretch!) Tie a knot in the end of the rope.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Last Chance Canyon > Solstice Cave > Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: The crimp is a full pad and really positive. The new move from the crimp is a tad more reachy because it's a downward pull instead of a side pull that allowed shorter climbers to get their hip into the wall to drive for the clipping jug by the second chain. Still a great route.


Location: New Mexico > New Mexico, other Southern ... > Last Chance Canyon > Solstice Cave > Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: The glue-reinforced/glued-on right-hand sidepull between the first and second fixed chain draws has broken off and sits near the base of the route. Thankfully there's a good crimp in the vicinity and the difficulty hasn't changed much.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area > Death Grip (5.12d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: I could see a belay/rope management bolt being quite useful. It is hard to figure a great place to put where the belayer would still be out of the water. That's a challenge with the first bolt on all the routes on this wall...keeping it up and away from the water enough so as to not have the belayer standing in the drink. Also, because of the way the climber comes out of the cave and would cross over/under a new first bolt, the placement is another challenge.

Ironically, while just recently wor... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Capulin Tower Area > The Viking (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Aaron, as of this weekend it's still there (you can see it in this photo from Saturday) We had hoped to climb it and get it for you but ran out of time.


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > Pinnacle Valley > Tombstone > West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: The moves right above the rusty 1/4" bolts at the start are the most difficult on the entire route. Thankfully a there's a decent nut placement just left of the bolts.
We did the route in one single pitch with a 70m rope and diligent rope management. We suspect it could be done in one pitch with a 60m rope just belaying a bit below the top of the formation. The chimney near the top is really fun and, despite being short, some of the best 5.8 climbing I've done in the Sandias.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Eagle Wall > ... > Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2014

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Comments: Fifth pitch, 450 feet off the ground!.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Area 37 > Fatigue (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification on the quickdraw numbers. I've modified the Protection information accordingly. it's also good to know that with a 70m rope you can lower down to the anchors at the top of Cyclic Loader.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input fellas. A re-org of the area is on my list. Any others out there have an opinion on the re-org of The Grotto area?


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area > The Other Woman (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 19, 2014

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Comments: I feel this is the best line of the newer 9s and 10s at the Love Shack. Cool features, steep climbing on big jugs and an airy finish. Thanks for the work to establish it and removing all the poo.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... > Grotto Right (West Side) > ... > Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: That line was just a little too hard for most people and needed a small crimp right there.

Seriously, though, it's a tan bolt hanger spun upwards a bit and not a bolted-on climbing hold.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: I like the idea of a reorganization of the areas to make it more clear. The organization of the Grotto here has always confused me and even after many years of climbing there, I'm still confused by it. :-)
Grotto Left (East) and Grotto Right (West) would be clean. Any thoughts on sub-areas in within these two areas or is that too much and not really needed?


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 9, 2014

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Comments: No problem. I've changed the caption and moved the photo to the Sandias area instead.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area > In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 6, 2014

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Comments: Good news, the seeping holds at the start were temporary, just lasting a couple weeks after the heavy rains in August. It's all dry at the start now.
The wrap-around handlebar hold at the second-to-last bolt is one of the cooler holds in the Jemez.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Area 37 > Bag of Sand (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 5, 2014

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Comments: Hey skelldify, my wife, at 5'5" with a -1 AI has beta for it that works. Problem is, we climb the route only a few times a year and have to relearn the beta each time. I tend to think it's a bit easier for short folks, actually. But 6'1" with a +4.5 AI would be nice too!


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