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Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay

Jason Halladay
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Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 10,491
Last Year: 648
Last 30 Days: 52
798 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5764 | Routes 373 | Areas 80 | Photos 988 | Page Improvements | Comments 621 | Posts 514 | Stars 1880 | Ratings 1308
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: As you will probably find out, our suggested ratings here are certainly just ballpark guesses and most likely soft.
As the routes clean up and chalk up, I fully expect the routes to feel easier. Routes tend to feel a bit harder when they're brand new, one is a bit cautious about pulling hard and the best holds aren't chalked up.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.10c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Seems to be confusion on this route and the next right one. The first route right of the 5.9 was in the sustained 5.10/10+ range and has the cobbles of ill reput name tag on it. It was one of the best i did that day. I'm guessing this one is "cobbles.....". There was another steep route to the right and maybe it is goitter grabber? That one has the. 5.8 to the right and could have an easier escape to the right. I didn't do the right of the 2. We need Jason to chime in and clarify ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10b R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments:
Kevin Dahlstrom wrote:
I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route...

I think you missed out on the primary reason this route is so rewarding and good...leading it with its creative and intermittent gear. The rock quality and moves are way good but the real charm in the route comes when you lead it.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: Ahh, so that's what the La Luz trail looks like! :-)


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Some quick food beta:
  • The "honey balls" for dessert at the Aegean restaurant (south end of the main drag in Masouri) are not to be missed!
  • Barbra Yiannis restaurant (northern end of the main drag in Masouri) is fantastic for lunch or dinner. Super friendly staff with great, outdoor, covered seating right along the road.



Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments:
Eric Whitbeck wrote:
Aaron, thanks for the topo upgrade. My vote is for Thorsten to be the bikini clad local.

+1!!!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2014

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Comments: Oh, yes, Nathan, that fifth bolt is missing its hanger currently. I've been meaning to replace the hanger but haven't been back up there yet. Hope it goes well for you next time!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: Hey Nathan, I don't think the bolt protecting the crux is missing (it was there a few weeks ago when I last climbed the route.) As I recall it's just below the crux bulge. I replaced that bolt a few years ago with a higher-quality 1/2" bolt after the original, weird bolt had taken a beating from falls.
It is a bit of a fall but a clean fall, if I recall correctly. Allison (the one pictured here) does the crux by getting her right hand in the crack and laying it back to get above the bulge. I'm ... more >>


Location: South America : Ecuador : Cayambe : Standard Route
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 1, 2014

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Comments: Looking forward to the details on this route


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Can I get an autographed copy of your $50 guidebook!?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: May 24, 2014

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Comments:
Chet Butterworth wrote:
will be here in the next few days, what's the most recent word of camping in Las Conchas?

A couple of years ago (at least) the forest service closed all camping along the river at Las Conchas in the first 1.6 miles (or so, maybe further) from the highway. So effectively no camping. But there are forest service campgrounds not too far away. Look for Redondo Campground or San Antonio Campgrounds to the west a number of miles.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Renaissance Man (5.12-)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: Thanks for the input guys. For the time being, I've sorted Renaissance Man as George suggested (right of "Whole Lotta Rosey", left of "Ring Around the Rosey"). If any of the Standby Shack regulars have a correction, please comment.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: Your photoshop skillz are amazing, Aaron


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 9, 2014

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Comments:
david Graham wrote:
...IDK why it's called crimp chimp but it's a cool name.

Probably because the first half of the route is all crimps.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Hidden Tower : Turkey Bacon (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: A really fun route with some amazing holds on it. Before you rope up, take a good look at the holds down low--there are some blind reaches/throws. The first clip is balancy/tricky so you want to stick clip it (or maybe even the second bolt.) Cool and airy finish.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Sin after Sin (5.13a)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: Not unethical at all when you put the effort into establishing the line. I hope your elbow continues to feel better so you can get back on the route.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Galatinani : Nymfi (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: What RyanO says!! Of eight days climbing on Kalymnos this trip, this is the standout. Just wow.

Also, this route description here is brilliant!


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Secret Garden : Ricounet (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is super rad!


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Jurassic Park
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a wonderful little area stacked with amazing climbing. It's well worth the extra effort to get here and you're likely to have the place to yourself or with minimal others. A fine day is to start climbing at Spartacus and then move up to Jurassic when Spartacus gets crowded.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : Main Wall : Dafni (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: If you climb one route at the Ghost Kitchen, climb this one. Amazing features that seem too good to be true.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : Main Wall : Lilo (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: All four of us really, really enjoyed this route. Great variety of climbing to fun and featured climbing that flowed well. Definitely worth doing and not as popular as neighboring routes.


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Ghost Kitchen : Lower Right Slab : Serena (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: The hardest move on the route is clipping the anchors. Probably best to clip from well below the anchors. You'll appreciate the lead protection bolt so close to the anchors.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 19, 2014

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Comments:
John Tex wrote:
How much snow is there in March, if any at all?

John, I'm far from a local but knowing NM winters, the March snowpack will vary. This year I'm guessing there's little snow in the area now. The north-facing slopes will likely retain snow into April but all other aspects ought to be pretty dry. The long road in is in some narrow canyon spots at times so my educated guess is it's kinda sloppy and/or icy in spots into April. Hopefully someone more local will chime in if they ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route names fellas. Big kudos to the name Metamuscle. As brilliant as the route.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments:
Allison M wrote:
These two smarty pants decided to hike in from 59. Our road tripping car definitely doesn't qualify as high clearance and we NEEDED to see what Enchanted Tower was all about. The hike is about 15 miles and 6 hours round trip. Do I regret it? No. Would I do it again? No. Well.. maybe. Enchanted Tower is stelllar! Seroiusly, that road is rough. Don't consider driving in unless you have a car that can take it.
I love the dedication! Was the road snowy or is it passable right... more >>


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