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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay

Jason Halladay
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Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 9,808

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










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All 5985 | Routes 376 | Areas 87 | Photos 1017 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 653 | Posts 563 | Stars 1932 | Ratings 1356
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Naked Lunch (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: We felt this quite soft for 12a and I don't say that to be condescending...it's a really fun route and if you're a 5.11 climber, don't avoid this based on the 12a rating. It has lots of great 5.10+ climbing to a short, crimpy crux. I've been slapped around more by 11c routes elsewhere in the Red.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Frisky Widow (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: A great line! Fantastic thin hands to hands climbing punctuated with good rests splitting a clean face.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Salt Mother (5.8) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Rich. Moved it to the proper location.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Hey Benjamin...I know how to clip draws and what textbook clips look like. In my 17 years of clipping bolts, I've never once seen the negative impacts of draw clipped "not optimally" so I go with personal preference most of the time and only really pay attention to it when I think it really matters.

I also wear a helmet when I want which isn't all the time.

But thanks for the concern.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments:
mark felber wrote:
Excellent shot. The draws hanging from your harness are a little bit of a giveaway, though.

Thanks but giveaway of what? I don't understand what you're implying I guess.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Saint George (V3)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Howdy Alex and Dustin. As an admin for the RRG area here on MP, I changed Alex's initial FA information to "First Recorded Ascent (FRA)" until it could get sorted out. Typically this approach works (as it has here) as more communication between users occurs. Thank you two for getting it sorted out.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. It's been a long time since I climbed the route.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Trouble in Paradise (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: I'd love to hear how folks are doing the start of this route to the first bolt. It felt super hard for 12a to me but maybe being 6'5" is a disadvantage here?


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: We climbed the two 5.11s on this wall this past weekend and really had a fun time on both routes. Some of the holds are incredible. It's still a bit more adventure than your standard sport climbing so touchy leaders may want to skip 'em but you're looking for a good pump and some pretty incredible holds, check these out.
Kudos to all your hard work, Rich.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S...
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, the three sectors setup was quite confusing. As of 9/23/2015, they've all been lumped into one Main Wall section again. If anyone finds any route sorting errors, please let me know.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the comment of recollection, Jim.

The 21st Ascent, by the Yale Mountaineering Club, reached the summit on April 2, 1956. We spent the night in a small cave in the bowl below the "horn". Our informztion was to throw a rope over the Horn and climb the open face with a belay from above. The wind was blowing too hard, so I climbed the open face free on miniscule holds until reaching the fixed bolt at the top of the pitch. (Apparently this precedes the free cl... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Busted By Dewey (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the report, Tim. We used 3.5" wedge bolts on most of these routes so there should be a good bit of steel still in the hole but I'll take a look at it next time we're out there.

We got super aggro with the cleaning and spent A LOT of time per route working stuff loose. I think the rock is just barely good enough for climbing so it'll keep on cleaning up. That said, if anyone wants to get after it with some mor... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Slacker Ken (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: A belay bolt was added in September 2015 at the base of this route. Please use it to avoid swinging out over the eroding area between the switchback and tearing that area up even more. The lowered climber should take the trail/switchback to return to the base of the climb instead of going straight back to the belay and tearing up the eroding area. The logs and rocks are in that area for reason. Keep our crags tidy and sustainable, please don't create additional erosion.

In ... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : The New Zoo : Barrel Full of Monkeys (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: Corrected "Location"


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Fruit Wall : Jew Jew Fruit (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks tscupp. I added your location information to the description and sorted the area as I believe it's lined up. If you see an error in sorting, please comment.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments:
Skelldify wrote:
Hate all you want, but I think the plastic toys should be removed. They are trash.


I'm much more offended by the two separate instances of wadded up, used-as-toilet paper, undergarments uphill of the Rad Wall then I am of the plastic toys.
I'm continually flabbergasted by the shitty ethics of people who ought to know better and treat the outdoors with more respect.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Due to an impending storm we found it's possible to escape from the tat anchors near the base of the paddle flake by climbing up and right to the big corner and then making a non-hands, tricky foot traverse right across the clean face along the obvious crack leading up and right to the small, overhanging alcove where the bolted rap anchors of Westside Story are found. This was probably about 10b and bit scarier for the second but actually pretty fun, interesting climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : McTech Arete (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Super fun route on great rock the entire way (well, the third pitch of scrambling isn't great but otherwise...) We climbed the hand crack roof on the first pitch as it looked way more appealing than the wide crack off to the left and I'd highly recommend this perfect hands roof variation.

Consider going a bit heavy on the finger-sized pieces for the second pitch if you want to sew it up pretty well. A #4 camalot would be useful a few times on the route so it's worth bringing if you have ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments:



Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: The American Alpine Journal just published an online article, written by Aaron Miller, regarding Capulin Canyon including some fantastic photos by Grindrite


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: For tall climbers this is a more difficult route, IMO, and deserving of the 12c rating. At 6'5", I felt the standard beta of climbing on holds to the left of the fixed chain at the crux didn't work for me at all--way too scrunchy given the left hand sloper. It took some time and concerted effort but I managed some really fun tall-guy-beta that uses holds (and a kneebar!) on pockets to the right of the chain draw to finally put it all togethe... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Pinch and Roll (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Whoa! Spontaneous rock fall...scary. It sounds like no one was hurt then? I hope not. That roof feature above the anchors has some dubious rock all along it. I cleaned the rock up and a left of the anchors but if folks stray too far left or right it'll be loose.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Cobble Cave (a.k.a. Black C... : Broken Desire 43 (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Way to go, Ed. I'm psyched to hear you gave this route the extension it deserved and look forward to additions to the cave!


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Hardcore! Does the new start start left of Shipwrecked, join it for a couple bolts and then move right into Cast Away?


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: It's been many years since I was last on this route and I climbed it again recently. It's definitely not for the budding 5.10 leader. If you have a big enough stick clip, clip the second bolt before heading up. The moves out of the slot/chimney are awkward and the first bolt is at your feet with the second bolt well out of reach still. A fall from there would be a big sideways fall onto the first bolt--could be pretty grim. A bolt protecting the moves out of the slot would make this route much m... more >>


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