Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay

Jason Halladay
is a member of
Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 9,625

803 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 5806 | Routes 374 | Areas 80 | Photos 991 | Page Improvements | Comments 626 | Posts 529 | Stars 1890 | Ratings 1316
Page 3 of 26.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Trouble in Paradise (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I'd love to hear how folks are doing the start of this route to the first bolt. It felt super hard for 12a to me but maybe being 6'5" is a disadvantage here?


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We climbed the two 5.11s on this wall this past weekend and really had a fun time on both routes. Some of the holds are incredible. It's still a bit more adventure than your standard sport climbing so touchy leaders may want to skip 'em but you're looking for a good pump and some pretty incredible holds, check these out.
Kudos to all your hard work, Rich.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S...
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Agreed, the three sectors setup was quite confusing. As of 9/23/2015, they've all been lumped into one Main Wall section again. If anyone finds any route sorting errors, please let me know.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the comment of recollection, Jim.

The 21st Ascent, by the Yale Mountaineering Club, reached the summit on April 2, 1956. We spent the night in a small cave in the bowl below the "horn". Our informztion was to throw a rope over the Horn and climb the open face with a belay from above. The wind was blowing too hard, so I climbed the open face free on miniscule holds until reaching the fixed bolt at the top of the pitch. (Apparently this precedes the free cl... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Busted By Dewey (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the report, Tim. We used 3.5" wedge bolts on most of these routes so there should be a good bit of steel still in the hole but I'll take a look at it next time we're out there.

We got super aggro with the cleaning and spent A LOT of time per route working stuff loose. I think the rock is just barely good enough for climbing so it'll keep on cleaning up. That said, if anyone wants to get after it with some mor... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Slacker Ken (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A belay bolt was added in September 2015 at the base of this route. Please use it to avoid swinging out over the eroding area between the switchback and tearing that area up even more. The lowered climber should take the trail/switchback to return to the base of the climb instead of going straight back to the belay and tearing up the eroding area. The logs and rocks are in that area for reason. Keep our crags tidy and sustainable, please don't create additional erosion.

In ... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : The New Zoo : Barrel Full of Monkeys (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Corrected "Location"


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Fruit Wall : Jew Jew Fruit (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 2, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks tscupp. I added your location information to the description and sorted the area as I believe it's lined up. If you see an error in sorting, please comment.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments:
Skelldify wrote:
Hate all you want, but I think the plastic toys should be removed. They are trash.


I'm much more offended by the two separate instances of wadded up, used-as-toilet paper, undergarments uphill of the Rad Wall then I am of the plastic toys.
I'm continually flabbergasted by the shitty ethics of people who ought to know better and treat the outdoors with more respect.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Due to an impending storm we found it's possible to escape from the tat anchors near the base of the paddle flake by climbing up and right to the big corner and then making a non-hands, tricky foot traverse right across the clean face along the obvious crack leading up and right to the small, overhanging alcove where the bolted rap anchors of Westside Story are found. This was probably about 10b and bit scarier for the second but actually pretty fun, interesting climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : McTech Arete (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun route on great rock the entire way (well, the third pitch of scrambling isn't great but otherwise...) We climbed the hand crack roof on the first pitch as it looked way more appealing than the wide crack off to the left and I'd highly recommend this perfect hands roof variation.

Consider going a bit heavy on the finger-sized pieces for the second pitch if you want to sew it up pretty well. A #4 camalot would be useful a few times on the route so it's worth bringing if you have ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments:



Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The American Alpine Journal just published an online article, written by Aaron Miller, regarding Capulin Canyon including some fantastic photos by Grindrite


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: For tall climbers this is a more difficult route, IMO, and deserving of the 12c rating. At 6'5", I felt the standard beta of climbing on holds to the left of the fixed chain at the crux didn't work for me at all--way too scrunchy given the left hand sloper. It took some time and concerted effort but I managed some really fun tall-guy-beta that uses holds (and a kneebar!) on pockets to the right of the chain draw to finally put it all togethe... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Pinch and Roll (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Whoa! Spontaneous rock fall...scary. It sounds like no one was hurt then? I hope not. That roof feature above the anchors has some dubious rock all along it. I cleaned the rock up and a left of the anchors but if folks stray too far left or right it'll be loose.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : Little River Wall : Cobble Cave (a.k.a. Black C... : Broken Desire 43 (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Way to go, Ed. I'm psyched to hear you gave this route the extension it deserved and look forward to additions to the cave!


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hardcore! Does the new start start left of Shipwrecked, join it for a couple bolts and then move right into Cast Away?


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 4, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: It's been many years since I was last on this route and I climbed it again recently. It's definitely not for the budding 5.10 leader. If you have a big enough stick clip, clip the second bolt before heading up. The moves out of the slot/chimney are awkward and the first bolt is at your feet with the second bolt well out of reach still. A fall from there would be a big sideways fall onto the first bolt--could be pretty grim. A bolt protecting the moves out of the slot would make this route much m... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Whipper Snapper (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: If you outweigh your belayer by a good margin, definitely consider anchor her/him on the tree near the base. The slightly overhanging start, coupled with bolts in a perfect line, results in very little friction in the system and a fall at the crux means you'll likely pull your belayer up and collide. As of April 2015 there was some old rope tied around the tree serving as a convenient belayer anchor.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Serenity Point : Return of the Mohan (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This felt pretty stout for 11d. Enjoyable climbing.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Dogleg (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: At 6'5" with an even ape index, I feel this route is perfect for me. Super damn fun big, but static, moves for me. However my 5'5" wife couldn't even envision how someone her size could do it. Big, steep dynos I presume but man that would be incredibly difficult.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Welcomed Guest (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I really enjoyed this route. Super fun arete climbing to interesting and strenuous roof moves to airy but easy traversing over the void. Great variety.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Jason, I generally don't have an issue with fixed draws except in places where there's a lot of non-climber traffic or the draws would detract from the view of an amazing feature such as the Tower. That said, I don't think there's a lot of non-climber traffic back there so it's less of an issue, especially if they're "short term" working draws. I wouldn't be upset or disturb them, personally.
My opinion would be to just place them on the upper section above the mid point anchor if you do pu... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Pumping Huecos (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 31, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Jesse, I moved the anchors down and placed a new fifth bolt a few years ago.

A local climber friend upgraded the chains and steel biners on the existing (lowered) anchors last summer. But they weren't painted and were quite shiny. Because it's a high-hiker-traffic area I didn't care for the shiny anchor chain/biners so I swapped them out a couple weekends ago with painted hardware. That's probably what you noti... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Confession: T'was me that placed those Austrialpin steel ovals in 2008/2009 on many routes at the Tower. As DisturbingThePeace said, the rating is higher than many oval screw links used to secure chains or other lowering hardware on most sport routes and I've not heard accounts of any screw link failures.

I wouldn't consider these biners viable for lead-climbing protection. But I'm very comfortable with the thought of lowering off 10kn steel biners because the redundancy of two biners supporti... more >>


Page 3 of 26.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>