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Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Jason Halladay
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 5764 | Routes 373 | Areas 80 | Photos 988 | Page Improvements | Comments 621 | Posts 514 | Stars 1880 | Ratings 1308
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Slacker Ken (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: A belay bolt was added in September 2015 at the base of this route. Please use it to avoid swinging out over the eroding area between the switchback and tearing that area up even more. The lowered climber should take the trail/switchback to return to the base of the climb instead of going straight back to the belay and tearing up the eroding area. The logs and rocks are in that area for reason. Keep our crags tidy and sustainable, please don't create additional erosion.

In ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : The New Zoo : Barrel Full of Monkeys (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: Corrected "Location"


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Fruit Wall : Jew Jew Fruit (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 2, 2015

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Comments: Thanks tscupp. I added your location information to the description and sorted the area as I believe it's lined up. If you see an error in sorting, please comment.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments:
Skelldify wrote:
Hate all you want, but I think the plastic toys should be removed. They are trash.


I'm much more offended by the two separate instances of wadded up, used-as-toilet paper, undergarments uphill of the Rad Wall then I am of the plastic toys.
I'm continually flabbergasted by the shitty ethics of people who ought to know better and treat the outdoors with more respect.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : Paddle Flake Direct (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Due to an impending storm we found it's possible to escape from the tat anchors near the base of the paddle flake by climbing up and right to the big corner and then making a non-hands, tricky foot traverse right across the clean face along the obvious crack leading up and right to the small, overhanging alcove where the bolted rap anchors of Westside Story are found. This was probably about 10b and bit scarier for the second but actually pretty fun, interesting climbing.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Columbia Mountains : Purcell Mountains : ... : McTech Arete (5.10-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2015

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Comments: Super fun route on great rock the entire way (well, the third pitch of scrambling isn't great but otherwise...) We climbed the hand crack roof on the first pitch as it looked way more appealing than the wide crack off to the left and I'd highly recommend this perfect hands roof variation.

Consider going a bit heavy on the finger-sized pieces for the second pitch if you want to sew it up pretty well. A #4 camalot would be useful a few times on the route so it's worth bringing if you have ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments:



Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: The American Alpine Journal just published an online article, written by Aaron Miller, regarding Capulin Canyon including some fantastic photos by Grindrite


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Godzilla Meets Bambi (5.12b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 24, 2015

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Comments: For tall climbers this is a more difficult route, IMO, and deserving of the 12c rating. At 6'5", I felt the standard beta of climbing on holds to the left of the fixed chain at the crux didn't work for me at all--way too scrunchy given the left hand sloper. It took some time and concerted effort but I managed some really fun tall-guy-beta that uses holds (and a kneebar!) on pockets to the right of the chain draw to finally put it all togethe... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Pinch and Roll (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 22, 2015

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Comments: Whoa! Spontaneous rock fall...scary. It sounds like no one was hurt then? I hope not. That roof feature above the anchors has some dubious rock all along it. I cleaned the rock up and a left of the anchors but if folks stray too far left or right it'll be loose.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Cobble Cave (a.k.a. Black C... : Broken Desire 43 (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Way to go, Ed. I'm psyched to hear you gave this route the extension it deserved and look forward to additions to the cave!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2015

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Comments: Hardcore! Does the new start start left of Shipwrecked, join it for a couple bolts and then move right into Cast Away?


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Class Act (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: It's been many years since I was last on this route and I climbed it again recently. It's definitely not for the budding 5.10 leader. If you have a big enough stick clip, clip the second bolt before heading up. The moves out of the slot/chimney are awkward and the first bolt is at your feet with the second bolt well out of reach still. A fall from there would be a big sideways fall onto the first bolt--could be pretty grim. A bolt protecting the moves out of the slot would make this route much m... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Whipper Snapper (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: If you outweigh your belayer by a good margin, definitely consider anchor her/him on the tree near the base. The slightly overhanging start, coupled with bolts in a perfect line, results in very little friction in the system and a fall at the crux means you'll likely pull your belayer up and collide. As of April 2015 there was some old rope tied around the tree serving as a convenient belayer anchor.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Serenity Point : Return of the Mohan (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: This felt pretty stout for 11d. Enjoyable climbing.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Dogleg (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: At 6'5" with an even ape index, I feel this route is perfect for me. Super damn fun big, but static, moves for me. However my 5'5" wife couldn't even envision how someone her size could do it. Big, steep dynos I presume but man that would be incredibly difficult.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Welcomed Guest (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I really enjoyed this route. Super fun arete climbing to interesting and strenuous roof moves to airy but easy traversing over the void. Great variety.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jason, I generally don't have an issue with fixed draws except in places where there's a lot of non-climber traffic or the draws would detract from the view of an amazing feature such as the Tower. That said, I don't think there's a lot of non-climber traffic back there so it's less of an issue, especially if they're "short term" working draws. I wouldn't be upset or disturb them, personally.
My opinion would be to just place them on the upper section above the mid point anchor if you do pu... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Pumping Huecos (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 31, 2015

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Comments: Hey Jesse, I moved the anchors down and placed a new fifth bolt a few years ago.

A local climber friend upgraded the chains and steel biners on the existing (lowered) anchors last summer. But they weren't painted and were quite shiny. Because it's a high-hiker-traffic area I didn't care for the shiny anchor chain/biners so I swapped them out a couple weekends ago with painted hardware. That's probably what you noti... more >>


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 25, 2015

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Comments: Confession: T'was me that placed those Austrialpin steel ovals in 2008/2009 on many routes at the Tower. As DisturbingThePeace said, the rating is higher than many oval screw links used to secure chains or other lowering hardware on most sport routes and I've not heard accounts of any screw link failures.

I wouldn't consider these biners viable for lead-climbing protection. But I'm very comfortable with the thought of lowering off 10kn steel biners because the redundancy of two biners supporti... more >>


Location: Colorado : The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice ... : Post : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 12, 2015

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Comments: climbing.com/news/ski-flatiron...


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Tufa Wall : Tufa Consequences (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Great name!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Leaning Tower : Tupelo Chain Sex (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: This past weekend I extended the route by two bolts and installed a two bolt anchor. The left chain on the anchor could use one more screw link to orient the carabiner properly to avoid rope twisting (I'll take a link next time I go up there.)
I hoped to put real hangers on the bolts but the bolts were much too big for my standard hole hangers. It may require drilling new holes, unfortunately.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Wart : Something Big & Lovely (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: No problem Mike. It might could have been interesting climbing up and left to the top but it would take a lot of brushing and cleaning and I'm not sure it would have been worthy. I chatted with Cam Burns last week about the route before putting in the anchors and he was cool with anchors being added but didn't think any new lead protection bolts would be necessary so straight up it was!


Location: NM
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: Hi David, locals further to the south than me may have other suggestions but you'll be a couple hours from The Tunnel and 2.5 hours from Last Chance Canyon both of which could be nice in March.


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