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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Jason Halladay
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Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 9,740

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 5896 | Routes 375 | Areas 85 | Photos 1010 | Page Improvements | Comments 639 | Posts 550 | Stars 1907 | Ratings 1330
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : The Infirmary : Brachial Plexus (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments:
Dustin Stephens wrote:
Crux bulge bolt has been moved to reduce leg-flipping potential.

Thanks Dustin. I've removed the text about that in the description and will delete these comments shortly.


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the route


Location: New Mexico : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : South Tower : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Hey Dave, I'm quite sure that's the right end of the Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall). I think the view is foreshortened and you can't see the small basin between Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) and the South Tower area.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond : West Face (a.k.a. Grid Wall...
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: There are two unknown routes with tan hangers uphill of the listed routes here. We didn't climb them but they look pretty moderate on dark, featured rock.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Chaos
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments:
Raiden wrote:
The current order for Swamp Gator and Lithuanian Princess needs to be switched (Swamp Gator is left of Lithuanian Princess).


Fixed. Thank you for the correction and your RRG contributions, Raiden.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Bush Doctor (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments:
George Perkins wrote:
This description is word-for word copied from the guidebook, and should be deleted or improved, unless it was done with Dennis Jackson's consent.

I contacted both Dennis Jackson and CaseyE about the route descriptions many of these Sugarite routes. It was a good, civilized discussion about a mix-up. We've decided to leave the routes listed and replace the descriptions with text offering the route entry be assigned to any user ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Lower Tempest (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I don't recall the name being changed on MP at any time but I concur with Dave and Amy the name is over-the-top crass. I've changed it per Amy's suggestion to "Lower Tempest" from the original name "Asian Whore". I include the original name here in my comment in case someone really takes issue with the name change here on MP and would like to know the original name.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Rabbit Rock (a.k.a. Crag 12...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This whole situation is curious. Jason and the other people who bolted and climbed at Upper East Fork walked past this formation and made a deliberate decision to not bolt it for the last 10 years. Now it's been bolted at a PG-13 rating (whatever that means) and the hangers are repainted, by one of the main UEF bolters, but he didn't goso far as to remove them. If a subdued presence is best (I'm not convinced this ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Rabbit Rock (a.k.a. Crag 12... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments:
George Perkins wrote:
To my surprise, this crack was solo'd in the 1980s by Bob Roback and another companion from the field camp he was in in the Jemez at the time, though they assumed it had been climbed previously.

Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Rabbit Rock (a.k.a. Crag 12... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Wall of Mediocrity
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Great! I'm glad to hear the routes are seeing some action. I think we did too good of a job of camouflaging the hardware and most don't even realize there are routes here.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Rabbit Rock (a.k.a. Crag 12...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: I stopped by the crag this evening to paint/camouflage all the plated steel hangers and ring anchors. Things are a lot more muted now. I'm a fervent advocate of always pre-painting hardware in areas of high non-climber traffic. I've used rustoleum brown spray paint for years and it seems to hold up very well.
In cases where the hardware is in-situ, I use a cardboard stencil I cut out a couple years ago that does a decent job of blocking overspray.

 more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Rabbit Rock (a.k.a. Crag 12...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This is the obvious fin of rock just northeast of the parking area for Upper East Fork so I've added that information to the "Getting There" information as most climbers will know it better that way.
According to a long-time Los Alamos Mountaineer, Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and Battleship Rock, for training climbing in the 1950's. Pretty cool!

I climbed the line up the crack/flaring... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Hi Meg, if you plan to stick close to Santa Fe for the weekend, Diablo is your best bet and, in particular, the shaded walls of Runway (Lower Tier) and chasing shade in The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch).
The Main Wall of The Shack is shaded in the morning until about 1pm and while it doesn't have many great easier routes, it's got a number of fun 5.11s.

The free BLM camping at Diablo is likely to be pretty toasty. It's pretty exposed and low elevation. Yo... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: How is this route rated 5.6??? The Organ mountain moderators will eventually get someone killed on this route with their very sandbagged ratings, since a lot of people like to free-solo this. Pitch 7-I'd love an explanation how it's a 5.6, when its more like 5.8+. I know the old route was 5.6, and whoever bolted the new portion didn't want to annotate the new change because they were disobeying BLM rules, but come on... The first six pitches were great, definitely a little easier than... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Zoo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 31, 2016

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Comments:
cevans wrote:
The GPS coordinates for the parking lot listed in the "Getting There" section of this page appear to be incorrect. We followed these GPS coordinates and came to what we believe is the Emerald City parking area. The parking lot for The Zoo is indeed the same lot as for Roadside Crag--that page on mountain project correctly lists the GPS coordinates of the parking lot as: 37.7334, -83.6591


Thanks for the correction. I verified the issue and changed the coordinates text accor... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: A couple of excellent, recent Michael Clark photos refer to this as "Crystal Clear Arête": Photo uno and photo dos.

This name sounds much better than "Unnamed Arête" to me so I've updated the name here.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Video of Chuck Calef sending the route on gear days before his 69th birthday:




Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments:
Jwh wrote:
A couple questions. I was wondering if Enchanted Tower is a possibility. We would be looking for 5.6 - 5.12+, and a chill place to camp for a couple days. Is the new approach possible in a rental car? How about a rental SUV? Can you camp there? How will the temps/shade be that time of year? I'm guessing hot...? Any info is much appreciated! --Josh

Hey Josh, we've spent a couple of Fourth of July weekends at the Tower and while it's not ideal temps, it's really not too shabby. ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: This is easily my favorite 11d at Shelf, if not my favorite route overall. Great movement on quality rock with hard to read sequences. Pumpy yet technical. The bolt spacing adds to the overall enjoyment by allowing flowing, uninterrupted climbing movement between clips.
If absolutely desired, some finger-sized gear would minimize the runs between bolts.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Sicilian Style (5.11a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Like Leverage, this is a nice, long route that, because of the ledges and rests, and makes for a good warm-up for nearby harder routes.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments:
ange heying wrote:
can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one

The standard is to climb Against Nature and simply keep going above the Against Nature anchors. Typically most just clip the right-side anchor chain of the Against Nature anchors and keep keep going. The first few clips above the anchor chain are fixed draws so it should be obvious where to go.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



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