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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
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Jason Halladay
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Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 10,520

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 5805 | Routes 374 | Areas 80 | Photos 991 | Page Improvements | Comments 626 | Posts 528 | Stars 1890 | Ratings 1316
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This is the obvious fin of rock just northeast of the parking area for Upper East Fork so I've added that information to the "Getting There" information as most climbers will know it better that way.
According to a long-time Los Alamos Mountaineer, Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and Battleship Rock, for training climbing in the 1950's. Pretty cool!

I climbed the line up the crack/flaring... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Hi Meg, if you plan to stick close to Santa Fe for the weekend, Diablo is your best bet and, in particular, the shaded walls of Runway (Lower Tier) and chasing shade in The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch).
The Main Wall of The Shack is shaded in the morning until about 1pm and while it doesn't have many great easier routes, it's got a number of fun 5.11s.

The free BLM camping at Diablo is likely to be pretty toasty. It's pretty exposed and low elevation. Yo... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: How is this route rated 5.6??? The Organ mountain moderators will eventually get someone killed on this route with their very sandbagged ratings, since a lot of people like to free-solo this. Pitch 7-I'd love an explanation how it's a 5.6, when its more like 5.8+. I know the old route was 5.6, and whoever bolted the new portion didn't want to annotate the new change because they were disobeying BLM rules, but come on... The first six pitches were great, definitely a little easier than... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : The Zoo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 31, 2016

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Comments:
cevans wrote:
The GPS coordinates for the parking lot listed in the "Getting There" section of this page appear to be incorrect. We followed these GPS coordinates and came to what we believe is the Emerald City parking area. The parking lot for The Zoo is indeed the same lot as for Roadside Crag--that page on mountain project correctly lists the GPS coordinates of the parking lot as: 37.7334, -83.6591


Thanks for the correction. I verified the issue and changed the coordinates text accor... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: A couple of excellent, recent Michael Clark photos refer to this as "Crystal Clear Arête": Photo uno and photo dos.

This name sounds much better than "Unnamed Arête" to me so I've updated the name here.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Video of Chuck Calef sending the route on gear days before his 69th birthday:




Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments:
Jwh wrote:
A couple questions. I was wondering if Enchanted Tower is a possibility. We would be looking for 5.6 - 5.12+, and a chill place to camp for a couple days. Is the new approach possible in a rental car? How about a rental SUV? Can you camp there? How will the temps/shade be that time of year? I'm guessing hot...? Any info is much appreciated! --Josh

Hey Josh, we've spent a couple of Fourth of July weekends at the Tower and while it's not ideal temps, it's really not too shabby. ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: This is easily my favorite 11d at Shelf, if not my favorite route overall. Great movement on quality rock with hard to read sequences. Pumpy yet technical. The bolt spacing adds to the overall enjoyment by allowing flowing, uninterrupted climbing movement between clips.
If absolutely desired, some finger-sized gear would minimize the runs between bolts.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Sicilian Style (5.11a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Like Leverage, this is a nice, long route that, because of the ledges and rests, and makes for a good warm-up for nearby harder routes.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments:
ange heying wrote:
can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one

The standard is to climb Against Nature and simply keep going above the Against Nature anchors. Typically most just clip the right-side anchor chain of the Against Nature anchors and keep keep going. The first few clips above the anchor chain are fixed draws so it should be obvious where to go.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Great Red Roof Area : The Great Red Roof (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Doctor's Office : Synethesia AKA Linger Fick... (5.12+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser...
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: We went on a Saturday in April this year and got our permits a week in advance. We hoped the permit system might limit the crowds but it was mighty damn busy (it was a Saturday after all so that makes sense). It's not clear to me if there's a daily limit or not.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments:
grog m wrote:
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...

Hate to break it to you but that's just climbers in general, not just NM. :)


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: I think it makes sense to have the separate areas here as the walls themselves are broken up by natural breaks. See this photo for the overview.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the Subdivisions
Overview of the Subdivisions


Admittedly it is a bit difficult to orientate oneself because many routes on some of the walls are not posted here.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments:
Zeffe wrote:
Implication is that you ain't all that brahhhhgg!

Still don't get it. I'm following a pitch and stemming wide for the photo--that's all there is to it.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Naked Lunch (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: We felt this quite soft for 12a and I don't say that to be condescending...it's a really fun route and if you're a 5.11 climber, don't avoid this based on the 12a rating. It has lots of great 5.10+ climbing to a short, crimpy crux. I've been slapped around more by 11c routes elsewhere in the Red.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Frisky Widow (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: A great line! Fantastic thin hands to hands climbing punctuated with good rests splitting a clean face.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Salt Mother (5.8) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Rich. Moved it to the proper location.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Hey Benjamin...I know how to clip draws and what textbook clips look like. In my 17 years of clipping bolts, I've never once seen the negative impacts of draw clipped "not optimally" so I go with personal preference most of the time and only really pay attention to it when I think it really matters.

I also wear a helmet when I want which isn't all the time.

But thanks for the concern.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments:
mark felber wrote:
Excellent shot. The draws hanging from your harness are a little bit of a giveaway, though.

Thanks but giveaway of what? I don't understand what you're implying I guess.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Saint George (V3)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Howdy Alex and Dustin. As an admin for the RRG area here on MP, I changed Alex's initial FA information to "First Recorded Ascent (FRA)" until it could get sorted out. Typically this approach works (as it has here) as more communication between users occurs. Thank you two for getting it sorted out.


Location: Wyoming : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. It's been a long time since I climbed the route.


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