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Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jason Halladay

Jason Halladay
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 5766 | Routes 373 | Areas 80 | Photos 988 | Page Improvements | Comments 619 | Posts 518 | Stars 1880 | Ratings 1308
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: This is easily my favorite 11d at Shelf, if not my favorite route overall. Great movement on quality rock with hard to read sequences. Pumpy yet technical. The bolt spacing adds to the overall enjoyment by allowing flowing, uninterrupted climbing movement between clips.
If absolutely desired, some finger-sized gear would minimize the runs between bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Sicilian Style (5.11a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Like Leverage, this is a nice, long route that, because of the ledges and rests, and makes for a good warm-up for nearby harder routes.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments:
ange heying wrote:
can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one

The standard is to climb Against Nature and simply keep going above the Against Nature anchors. Typically most just clip the right-side anchor chain of the Against Nature anchors and keep keep going. The first few clips above the anchor chain are fixed draws so it should be obvious where to go.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Great Red Roof Area : The Great Red Roof (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Doctor's Office : Synethesia AKA Linger Fick... (5.12+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser...
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments: We went on a Saturday in April this year and got our permits a week in advance. We hoped the permit system might limit the crowds but it was mighty damn busy (it was a Saturday after all so that makes sense). It's not clear to me if there's a daily limit or not.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2015

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Comments:
grog m wrote:
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...

Hate to break it to you but that's just climbers in general, not just NM. :)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Subdivisions
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: I think it makes sense to have the separate areas here as the walls themselves are broken up by natural breaks. See this photo for the overview.
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the Subdivisions
Overview of the Subdivisions


Admittedly it is a bit difficult to orientate oneself because many routes on some of the walls are not posted here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments:
Zeffe wrote:
Implication is that you ain't all that brahhhhgg!

Still don't get it. I'm following a pitch and stemming wide for the photo--that's all there is to it.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Naked Lunch (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: We felt this quite soft for 12a and I don't say that to be condescending...it's a really fun route and if you're a 5.11 climber, don't avoid this based on the 12a rating. It has lots of great 5.10+ climbing to a short, crimpy crux. I've been slapped around more by 11c routes elsewhere in the Red.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Frisky Widow (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: A great line! Fantastic thin hands to hands climbing punctuated with good rests splitting a clean face.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Salt Mother (5.8) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Rich. Moved it to the proper location.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: Hey Benjamin...I know how to clip draws and what textbook clips look like. In my 17 years of clipping bolts, I've never once seen the negative impacts of draw clipped "not optimally" so I go with personal preference most of the time and only really pay attention to it when I think it really matters.

I also wear a helmet when I want which isn't all the time.

But thanks for the concern.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Half Dome : Snake Dike (5.7 R) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments:
mark felber wrote:
Excellent shot. The draws hanging from your harness are a little bit of a giveaway, though.

Thanks but giveaway of what? I don't understand what you're implying I guess.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Emerald City : Saint George (V3)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Howdy Alex and Dustin. As an admin for the RRG area here on MP, I changed Alex's initial FA information to "First Recorded Ascent (FRA)" until it could get sorted out. Typically this approach works (as it has here) as more communication between users occurs. Thank you two for getting it sorted out.


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. It's been a long time since I climbed the route.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Boneyard : Trouble in Paradise (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: I'd love to hear how folks are doing the start of this route to the first bolt. It felt super hard for 12a to me but maybe being 6'5" is a disadvantage here?


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 6, 2015

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Comments: We climbed the two 5.11s on this wall this past weekend and really had a fun time on both routes. Some of the holds are incredible. It's still a bit more adventure than your standard sport climbing so touchy leaders may want to skip 'em but you're looking for a good pump and some pretty incredible holds, check these out.
Kudos to all your hard work, Rich.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S...
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 24, 2015

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Comments: Agreed, the three sectors setup was quite confusing. As of 9/23/2015, they've all been lumped into one Main Wall section again. If anyone finds any route sorting errors, please let me know.


Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the comment of recollection, Jim.

The 21st Ascent, by the Yale Mountaineering Club, reached the summit on April 2, 1956. We spent the night in a small cave in the bowl below the "horn". Our informztion was to throw a rope over the Horn and climb the open face with a belay from above. The wind was blowing too hard, so I climbed the open face free on miniscule holds until reaching the fixed bolt at the top of the pitch. (Apparently this precedes the free cl... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Busted By Dewey (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the report, Tim. We used 3.5" wedge bolts on most of these routes so there should be a good bit of steel still in the hole but I'll take a look at it next time we're out there.

We got super aggro with the cleaning and spent A LOT of time per route working stuff loose. I think the rock is just barely good enough for climbing so it'll keep on cleaning up. That said, if anyone wants to get after it with some mor... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Slacker Ken (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: A belay bolt was added in September 2015 at the base of this route. Please use it to avoid swinging out over the eroding area between the switchback and tearing that area up even more. The lowered climber should take the trail/switchback to return to the base of the climb instead of going straight back to the belay and tearing up the eroding area. The logs and rocks are in that area for reason. Keep our crags tidy and sustainable, please don't create additional erosion.

In ... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo : The New Zoo : Barrel Full of Monkeys (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2015

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Comments: Corrected "Location"


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