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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
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Jason Halladay
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Total Points: 11,639

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 6306 | Routes 435 | Areas 115 | Approach Trails 17 | Photos 1098 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 666 | Posts 591 | Stars 2004 | Ratings 1378
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Europe : Greece : Peloponnese : Leonidio
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 17, 2017

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Comments: As of November 2017, climbing-leonidio.com/ is no longer a legit site. It appears the domain name was not re-registered and has been taken over by an ad service.

Other info:
  • Expect to pay ~10 euros for the various toll roads driving from Athens to Leonidio. The drive takes 3.5 to 4 hours as it winds along the coast on a scenic road.
  • Many of the crags face south so fall through spring is best for climbing. That said, there are shady crags, just not as high quality (at least that we...
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Location: Colorado : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Tanks for the Hueco (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 16, 2017

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Comments: Ha, yes, the layback is legit. I'm 6'5" and have climbed this a number of times before realizing I could stem it!


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 8, 2017

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Comments:
Richard Heying wrote:
Hey is the new road open right now?

It hasn't snowed yet this year so I'd fully expect no problems on the drive in past the Davenport Lookout


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Hellboy (5.8+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 4, 2017

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Comments:
Andrew Christian wrote:
Also, the first clip after the mid-point anchors is one of the thinnest on the climb over some of the more suspicious rock. Do not attempt to lead the second pitch if you are not considerably stronger than a 5.8 climber or you will seriously risk both a factor-2 fall and showering your partner with choss.

It's definitely not recommended to do this as two pitches, but, rather, one long pitch to the top. Then rap down. This way you don't need to worry about ... more >>


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : Guernica (To first anchor) (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 26, 2017

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Comments: Wow! That would make a nice jug on a home gym wall. :)


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Holy Wall (5.10a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 25, 2017

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Comments:
Justin B wrote:
Just an FYI, the top chain links (the ones on the bolt hangars) have become quite worn.

Thanks for mentioning that. I took a look at the links last week and they were worrisome enough I went back this evening to replace them.

I replaced the worn lap links with screw links, new chains and new lowering biners on both bolts. On the right bolt, I also swapped out the hanger. The left bolt is spinning in the hole so I could not get the hanger off. Instead, ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Eden Canyon : Eden Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 24, 2017

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Comments: Careful, that thing's gonna fall over! :)


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 23, 2017

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Comments: According to a couple of posts in this 2012 forum thread, at least one person has climbed there post-Las Conchas 2011 fire and another said it "looked fine".


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Post Moderate (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 23, 2017

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Comments: Re: anchors. I agree they need to be replaced. This past spring I brought hardware to replace them but found the bolts placed in depressions in the rock face and my wrench couldn't get in that angle to get enough torque. Also, I seem to recall one was a spinner but I could be wrong about that. A socket wrench is needed should anyone get out there to fix this up.

Edit 11/7/2017:
I installed new anchors and removed the old ones last weekend. The location of the old anchors made it painfully ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : Potato Canyon : The Great Potato (Mt. Ore I... : East Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 30, 2017

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Comments: If anyone repeats this route and would like to add a bolt or two to the last pitch to lessen the runout/make it safer, please do (use a hand drill, it's wilderness.) We should have added one when rapping but it was getting dark.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments:
Zachary Burton wrote:
I have a question for everyone. What is the proper pronunciation of Amarillo sunset?

The double "L"s in Amarillo are pronounced like the letter "Y". You can hear it on translate.google.com.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: This weekend I added two bolts and a separate anchor on this route to make it a completely independent line. The independent finish up the brown/green streak is still a bit flaky (tread lightly until it cleans up) but has some great pockets on it and feels a bit more sustained than the finish of Rumplestiltskin which adds some quality to this line. After the no-hands pod rest, climb the corner for a few moves then move out left into the streak and up to the anchors.

The way I climb this route ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Shiver Me Cobbles (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Here's hoping for a strong rain event soon to wash off the large amount of dirt on the rock in the middle section. Until then, expect plenty of dirt and tread carefully.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Las Vegas / El Porvenir : Hermit Peak : Hermit's Cave : Thai Cookin' (5.11d PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: My friend Josh and I climbed this route recently. It was a cool, adventurous outing that felt pretty wild. Kudos to Hiroki, William and Eric for the FA so long ago--it must have been a four-star experience for sure.
A few notes:
  • There's a lot of deadfall in the approach drainage above the old mine. So much so that after we climbed and rapped down, we hiked up past the Hermit's Cave to the standard Hermit Peak trail and hiked that trail back down with some easy cross-country hiking bac...
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Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stoker (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments:
Aaron Miller wrote:
Bolt 6 is not doing well. Its an old 5-piece, plated steel, spins freely, and will not tighten (just spins in place when wrenched). Be careful! It needs to be replaced.

It was the fifth bolt in question (turns out the route has only six bolts total.) The bad bolt has been removed and a new one installed near its original location.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 4, 2017

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Comments:
Camster wrote:
I bolted this route with Bob. He definitely didn't do the FA.

Thanks Cam. Did you do the FA then? We'll update the page with proper info if so.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Tranquilo (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: I appreciate the civil discourse, Loren. Thanks.
Loren Bunjes wrote:
Food for thought, would it take away anything to add a bolt near the top for safety? I mean, if a person wanted to practice trad climbing, couldn't they simply not clip into the bolts? Devils advocate.


It may sound odd but the addition of a bolt on a route does take away something from the route--it can diminish or remove the commitment and, therefore, the mental challenge/reward of the route.
I realize this poin... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Tranquilo (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments:
Loren Bunjes wrote:
Would anyone be averse to adding a bolt before the chains? I feel like it's a bit precarious. This would be a good route for a new lead climber, but with the height of the anchors at the top, this makes for a slightly dangerous situation. Sport routes shouldn't need trad gear to be safe imo.

Hey Loren, considering the "Protection" section suggests a standard rack and some draws for the bolts, this isn't a pure sport route.
If you want to discuss ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : It's Time to Drink Beer (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: I went to replace the beat up and less-than-ideally-placed fourth bolt/hanger today but couldn't get it out of the hole despite working on it for quite a while. I did place a new fourth bolt down and to the right a bit from the original that keeps the quickdraw in a much better location. I'll go back with a crowbar and cutting tool at some point for the old fourth bolt. In the meantime there are currently two bolts about 14" apart for the fourth bolt. Clip the new one!


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it? Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Just a mere three years later but I finally fixed up the fifth bolt this evening. I drilled a new hole on the right side of the dihedral at about the same height for the new bolt. I didn't use the old bolt stud for a couple reasons:
1.) All the original bolts on this are wonky. I didn't have a nut for the non-standard size and it didn't protrude much from the rock anyway.
2.) The location on the left side of the dihedral meant the rope ran from bolt five on the left to bolt six on t... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Squeeze My Cobbles (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: The left anchor carabiner could really use some lube if anyone is so inclined. The gate is very sticky and one must manually shut it.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Upper East Fork (UEF)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments:
Ryan Frieberts wrote:
Gnar routes but somebody needs to cut the damn grass...

Ha, hilarious. This is national forest, not a golf course. :-)


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments:
Adam Block wrote:
This pitch is heady for the 5.7 leader. the first section is an enduro thin fist liebacking on the steep step slab. Looks like it takes #1s and #3s from the ground but somehow only #2s fit, I'd recommend bringing at least 5 #2s to make this safe...

LOL, well played


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Practice Wall : Kate's 1st Trad Lead (5.1) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: I knew that Alex Honnold guy would spur a massive increase in free soloing. Damn him...so irresponsible!


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