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Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Jason Halladay
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Page Improvements = 3
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All 5771 | Routes 373 | Areas 80 | Photos 990 | Page Improvements | Comments 619 | Posts 521 | Stars 1880 | Ratings 1308
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Welcomed Guest (5.11d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: I'm sure they will. But for the sake of accuracy I updated the topo line here.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : The Infirmary : Zoonotic (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: After seeing your comment, David, I took a look at this route this past weekend. The route you added, with the very high first bolt, is indeed Bipolar. Zoonotic is the next route left of Bipolar. The "spook eyes" holds visible in the Zoonotic photo were obvious to us and a great identifier for finding the route. The "spook eyes" holes are about seven feet off the ground and my 5'@SE... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Courtesy Wall : Welcomed Guest (5.11d) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: I believe the route traverses a good bit to the right after the second roof instead of going straight up (as the photo initially depicted--updated 11/7/2016)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Mad Dogs and Englishmen (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: So very civilized to have independent anchors on all these routes. Thanks for the upgrades Owen and Luke. It's a great little wall with fun, featured climbing and it's nice to see the area getting some hardware maintenance.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Pumping Harry (5.10+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Note I changed the name of this route here from "Unknown" to "Pumping Harry" based on a suggestion from a couple climbers. The name is derived from the route's proximity to the classic "Pumping Huecos" and the crass pseudonym used by the FA as his/her MP username.
If the FA will supply a better route name, we'll update it here.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : The Infirmary : Brachial Plexus (5.11c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 4, 2016

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Comments:
Dustin Stephens wrote:
Crux bulge bolt has been moved to reduce leg-flipping potential.

Thanks Dustin. I've removed the text about that in the description and will delete these comments shortly.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic perspective on the route


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : South Tower : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Hey Dave, I'm quite sure that's the right end of the Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall). I think the view is foreshortened and you can't see the small basin between Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) and the South Tower area.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Land Beyond : West Face (a.k.a. Grid Wall...
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 11, 2016

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Comments: There are two unknown routes with tan hangers uphill of the listed routes here. We didn't climb them but they look pretty moderate on dark, featured rock.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Miller Fork Recreational Pr... : Chaos
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments:
Raiden wrote:
The current order for Swamp Gator and Lithuanian Princess needs to be switched (Swamp Gator is left of Lithuanian Princess).


Fixed. Thank you for the correction and your RRG contributions, Raiden.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Bush Doctor (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments:
George Perkins wrote:
This description is word-for word copied from the guidebook, and should be deleted or improved, unless it was done with Dennis Jackson's consent.

I contacted both Dennis Jackson and CaseyE about the route descriptions many of these Sugarite routes. It was a good, civilized discussion about a mix-up. We've decided to leave the routes listed and replace the descriptions with text offering the route entry be assigned to any user ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Lower Tempest (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I don't recall the name being changed on MP at any time but I concur with Dave and Amy the name is over-the-top crass. I've changed it per Amy's suggestion to "Lower Tempest" from the original name "Asian Whore". I include the original name here in my comment in case someone really takes issue with the name change here on MP and would like to know the original name.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: This whole situation is curious. Jason and the other people who bolted and climbed at Upper East Fork walked past this formation and made a deliberate decision to not bolt it for the last 10 years. Now it's been bolted at a PG-13 rating (whatever that means) and the hangers are repainted, by one of the main UEF bolters, but he didn't goso far as to remove them. If a subdued presence is best (I'm not convinced this ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments:
George Perkins wrote:
To my surprise, this crack was solo'd in the 1980s by Bob Roback and another companion from the field camp he was in in the Jemez at the time, though they assumed it had been climbed previously.

Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Wall of Mediocrity
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Great! I'm glad to hear the routes are seeing some action. I think we did too good of a job of camouflaging the hardware and most don't even realize there are routes here.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: I stopped by the crag this evening to paint/camouflage all the plated steel hangers and ring anchors. Things are a lot more muted now. I'm a fervent advocate of always pre-painting hardware in areas of high non-climber traffic. I've used rustoleum brown spray paint for years and it seems to hold up very well.
In cases where the hardware is in-situ, I use a cardboard stencil I cut out a couple years ago that does a decent job of blocking overspray.

 more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This is the obvious fin of rock just northeast of the parking area for Upper East Fork so I've added that information to the "Getting There" information as most climbers will know it better that way.
According to a long-time Los Alamos Mountaineer, Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and Battleship Rock, for training climbing in the 1950's. Pretty cool!

I climbed the line up the crack/flaring... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Hi Meg, if you plan to stick close to Santa Fe for the weekend, Diablo is your best bet and, in particular, the shaded walls of Runway (Lower Tier) and chasing shade in The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch).
The Main Wall of The Shack is shaded in the morning until about 1pm and while it doesn't have many great easier routes, it's got a number of fun 5.11s.

The free BLM camping at Diablo is likely to be pretty toasty. It's pretty exposed and low elevation. Yo... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: How is this route rated 5.6??? The Organ mountain moderators will eventually get someone killed on this route with their very sandbagged ratings, since a lot of people like to free-solo this. Pitch 7-I'd love an explanation how it's a 5.6, when its more like 5.8+. I know the old route was 5.6, and whoever bolted the new portion didn't want to annotate the new change because they were disobeying BLM rules, but come on... The first six pitches were great, definitely a little easier than... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 31, 2016

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Comments:
cevans wrote:
The GPS coordinates for the parking lot listed in the "Getting There" section of this page appear to be incorrect. We followed these GPS coordinates and came to what we believe is the Emerald City parking area. The parking lot for The Zoo is indeed the same lot as for Roadside Crag--that page on mountain project correctly lists the GPS coordinates of the parking lot as: 37.7334, -83.6591


Thanks for the correction. I verified the issue and changed the coordinates text accor... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: A couple of excellent, recent Michael Clark photos refer to this as "Crystal Clear Arête": Photo uno and photo dos.

This name sounds much better than "Unnamed Arête" to me so I've updated the name here.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Video of Chuck Calef sending the route on gear days before his 69th birthday:




Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments:
Jwh wrote:
A couple questions. I was wondering if Enchanted Tower is a possibility. We would be looking for 5.6 - 5.12+, and a chill place to camp for a couple days. Is the new approach possible in a rental car? How about a rental SUV? Can you camp there? How will the temps/shade be that time of year? I'm guessing hot...? Any info is much appreciated! --Josh

Hey Josh, we've spent a couple of Fourth of July weekends at the Tower and while it's not ideal temps, it's really not too shabby. ... more >>


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