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Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
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Jason Halladay
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Point Rank: # 32
Total Points: 10,472

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 6103 | Routes 385 | Areas 89 | Approach Trails 4 | Photos 1053 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 658 | Posts 583 | Stars 1953 | Ratings 1376
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Terence McKenna crag
By: Jason Halladay When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I concur with Drew and Bill. It's on my list to move these routes under the Sugarloaf area. I don't see a need for a new "area".


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : Potato Canyon : The Great Potato (Mt. Ore I... : East Ridge (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 30, 2017

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Comments: If anyone repeats this route and would like to add a bolt or two to the last pitch to lessen the runout/make it safer, please do (use a hand drill, it's wilderness.) We should have added one when rapping but it was getting dark.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : North 40 : Amarillo Sunset (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 29, 2017

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Comments:
Zachary Burton wrote:
I have a question for everyone. What is the proper pronunciation of Amarillo sunset?

The double "L"s in Amarillo are pronounced like the letter "Y". You can hear it on translate.google.com.


Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : White Witch (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 11, 2017

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Comments: This weekend I added two bolts and a separate anchor on this route to make it a completely independent line. The independent finish up the brown/green streak is still a bit flaky (tread lightly until it cleans up) but has some great pockets on it and feels a bit more sustained than the finish of Rumplestiltskin which adds some quality to this line. After the no-hands pod rest, climb the corner for a few moves then move out left into the streak and up to the anchors.

The way I climb this route ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Pirate's Wall : Shiver Me Cobbles (5.10b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2017

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Comments: Here's hoping for a strong rain event soon to wash off the large amount of dirt on the rock in the middle section. Until then, expect plenty of dirt and tread carefully.


Location: New Mexico : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Las Vegas / El Porvenir : Hermit Peak : Hermit's Cave : Thai Cookin' (5.11d PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 16, 2017

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Comments: My friend Josh and I climbed this route recently. It was a cool, adventurous outing that felt pretty wild. Kudos to Hiroki, William and Eric for the FA so long ago--it must have been a four-star experience for sure.
A few notes:
  • There's a lot of deadfall in the approach drainage above the old mine. So much so that after we climbed and rapped down, we hiked up past the Hermit's Cave to the standard Hermit Peak trail and hiked that trail back down with some easy cross-country hiking bac...
 more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Stoker (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments:
Aaron Miller wrote:
Bolt 6 is not doing well. Its an old 5-piece, plated steel, spins freely, and will not tighten (just spins in place when wrenched). Be careful! It needs to be replaced.

It was the fifth bolt in question (turns out the route has only six bolts total.) The bad bolt has been removed and a new one installed near its original location.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 4, 2017

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Comments:
Camster wrote:
I bolted this route with Bob. He definitely didn't do the FA.

Thanks Cam. Did you do the FA then? We'll update the page with proper info if so.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Tranquilo (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 26, 2017

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Comments: I appreciate the civil discourse, Loren. Thanks.
Loren Bunjes wrote:
Food for thought, would it take away anything to add a bolt near the top for safety? I mean, if a person wanted to practice trad climbing, couldn't they simply not clip into the bolts? Devils advocate.


It may sound odd but the addition of a bolt on a route does take away something from the route--it can diminish or remove the commitment and, therefore, the mental challenge/reward of the route.
I realize this poin... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Tranquilo (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments:
Loren Bunjes wrote:
Would anyone be averse to adding a bolt before the chains? I feel like it's a bit precarious. This would be a good route for a new lead climber, but with the height of the anchors at the top, this makes for a slightly dangerous situation. Sport routes shouldn't need trad gear to be safe imo.

Hey Loren, considering the "Protection" section suggests a standard rack and some draws for the bolts, this isn't a pure sport route.
If you want to discuss ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : It's Time to Drink Beer (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 22, 2017

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Comments: I went to replace the beat up and less-than-ideally-placed fourth bolt/hanger today but couldn't get it out of the hole despite working on it for quite a while. I did place a new fourth bolt down and to the right a bit from the original that keeps the quickdraw in a much better location. I'll go back with a crowbar and cutting tool at some point for the old fourth bolt. In the meantime there are currently two bolts about 14" apart for the fourth bolt. Clip the new one!


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it? Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Flake Out (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Just a mere three years later but I finally fixed up the fifth bolt this evening. I drilled a new hole on the right side of the dihedral at about the same height for the new bolt. I didn't use the old bolt stud for a couple reasons:
1.) All the original bolts on this are wonky. I didn't have a nut for the non-standard size and it didn't protrude much from the rock anyway.
2.) The location on the left side of the dihedral meant the rope ran from bolt five on the left to bolt six on t... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Squeeze My Cobbles (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: The left anchor carabiner could really use some lube if anyone is so inclined. The gate is very sticky and one must manually shut it.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Upper East Fork (UEF)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments:
Ryan Frieberts wrote:
Gnar routes but somebody needs to cut the damn grass...

Ha, hilarious. This is national forest, not a golf course. :-)


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Roadside Attraction (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments:
Adam Block wrote:
This pitch is heady for the 5.7 leader. the first section is an enduro thin fist liebacking on the steep step slab. Looks like it takes #1s and #3s from the ground but somehow only #2s fit, I'd recommend bringing at least 5 #2s to make this safe...

LOL, well played


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Practice Wall : Kate's 1st Trad Lead (5.1) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 22, 2017

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Comments: I knew that Alex Honnold guy would spur a massive increase in free soloing. Damn him...so irresponsible!


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Jug or Not (5.10a PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 21, 2017

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Comments: Admin note: I moved this route from its originally-submitted location, North Rock, to Mosaic Rock as it sounds like it's near Suprise-Suprise. If incorrect, let me know.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Packrat Dihedral (5.6) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: I added two lines (purple and pink) for the second pitch. The second pitch as marked in yellow is easier but not the standard second pitch as I know it. I believe the more standard second pitch follows the purple line.
A third option I've done a few times is the pink line. Exciting exposure on quality rock but not as much protection.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Area 37
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 14, 2017

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Comments: The two gnarly widowmaker trees leaning against the wall have been cleared. It was pretty wild. In the carnage, the large kinda-scary-but-very-featured plate down low shared between The InBetween and Bag of Sand was knocked off. It's pretty dirty in that section now (there was dirt behind the flake) but I don't believe the difficulty of the routes has changed.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Wall of Mediocrity : Two Buck Chuck (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: Glad to hear this area saw at least *some* action. You're probably the fourth person (after me, Walt and Chris) to climb this route. :-) Lots of lichen for sure...maybe it'll never clean up. Also, did we meet on Friday evening at El Rito, Andrew?


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: To be clear, the photo was originally captioned as Huecos Rancheros and added on the Huecos Rancheros page. I corrected the caption and the location after Rob's comment.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 12, 2017

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Comments: I met a couple of out-of-town climbers at El Rito recently that were having a hard time navigating the walls of the area and didn't have the PDF. Thus, it makes sense to include the overview photo here for those just using the MountainProject app.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Middle Fork : The Great Chasm : The Great Chasm (5.7)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: The original summit register book is all filled up. If you're heading up it would be awesome if you could take a new notebook up there. The summit register is a large ammo can so a full-size notebook will fit in there. Plenty of pens.


Location: Utah : Maple Canyon : Maple Canyon Road : Windshield Wiper Wall : DOO (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 8, 2017

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Comments: Really fun climbing! I found this to climb better and a tad easier than Whiskey on the Southbound


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