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Member Since: May 30, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jaren Watson

Point Rank: # 596
Total Points: 1,195

20 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jaren Watson been climbing?










Contributions


All 756 | Routes 74 | Areas 14 | Photos 51 | Page Improvements | Comments 61 | Posts 261 | Stars 187 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : East Car Body Canyon : Holiday in Cambodia (5.10b)
By: Jaren Watson When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I thought this route's position and movement were pretty great for the grade. One of my favorites at the Black Cliffs.
My poor wife, however, was not a fan of the literal hundreds of spiders at the base! I can honestly say I've never seen so many spiders in one place in my life. Reminded me of a scene out of Temple of Doom.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : East Car Body Canyon : Eyeless in Gaza (5.7)
By: Jaren Watson When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I thought so, too, K Baumgartner. A bit headier than some other 5.7s in the area. Fun, though!


Location: Wyoming : Teton Canyon : Photo
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: Good to know the info about your first ascent, Ray. It's hard to believe nobody climbed it before that, but it's probably unlikely someone else will show up and refute your FA.
I agree it's easier than 11-. 10c? Maybe. I'd put in a vote for 10d. Whatever. It's a fun line.
Are you saying there are now bolts? I hope not. That would be unfortunate.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Palisades Creek
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: It would be better if The Pines was listed as a separate area to avoid confusion. Weeping Cave saw route development several years earlier than when Dean and Heather Lords and I developed the Pines, along with Riley Rollins and Stephen Elmer.
Though, a couple of final routes did go in at Weeping Cave at roughly the same time.

By the way, Dean always called the warmup left of the headwall 5.9, though I imagine a 5.9 climber will find the climb to be a bit stiff for the grade. :)


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : The New Fringe : Bushwhacker (5.7+)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: I think this is a very fun route at the grade. Runout between 4 and 5, but a fall here would be safe.


Location: Idaho : West Idaho : Black Cliffs : The New Fringe : Epic for the Masses (5.7+)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: If climbing at your limit, you will probably want to supplement the bolts. The holds are big, but a fall between 2 and 3 and between 3 and 4 could be quite bad. The good news is there are many options for good gear.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Pointless Crag : Alien Pod (5.7)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2017

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Comments: Waltpacker, I'm a fan of consensus building by the community to determine a route's grade, but we ought to form our opinions based on reasonable standards. One of which is that steepness can affect difficulty but is definitely not the only factor. No overhung 5.7s? Just because you don't know of any doesn't mean they don't exist. I'm sure climbers up and down the east coast would smile at this assertion and supply a list of dozens upon dozens of 5.5 and 5.6 climbs signif... more >>


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face : ... : Photo
By: Jaren Watson When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: Yes, it's wildly steep. Even more so when the camera is tilted at a 45 degree angle!


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : South Park : Main Wall : Scary Rattlesnake (5.11b)
By: Jaren Watson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Large and Loose was my nickname in high school.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : The Fins : The Discovery Wall : Martini Sector : ... : Photo
By: Jaren Watson When: Sep 9, 2013

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Comments: Hi Ian, I got the photo from Jonathan's website after asking him if it was okay to pull a few shots from his trip last fall. Hope it's cool with you. If not, I'll gladly take it down.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: Jaren Watson When: Sep 5, 2013

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Comments: A single 70m rope will definitely not get you down. As of the middle of August this year, someone had left/installed a mid-route heavy-duty quicklink, allowing for two single-rope raps, but keep in mind before leaving the ground there's a chance that link will not be there.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : City Girls (5.10c)
By: Jaren Watson When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: Very fun route. I love the variation, felt like three distinct styles, each enjoyable on their own. Great angle on positive jugs to finish. Not a lot of technique required, but for climbers whose strengths are not raw power, I could imagine this feeling like 10d. I wouldn't argue with 10b or c. 10a might not accurately reflect the experience. Regardless, great fun.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : City of Rocks : Transformer Corridor : Short Circuit (5.10a)
By: Jaren Watson When: Aug 21, 2013

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Comments: I also neglected to read the description here and found myself feeling relieved that the climbing was indeed only 10a. Awful lot of space between those bolts. Regardless, a great line.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : Lemhi Range : Diamond Peak : East Ridge
By: Jaren Watson When: Jul 31, 2013

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Comments: Ryan is correct. Diamond Peak is right in the middle of the Lemhi Range.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Heise Rock
By: Jaren Watson When: Jul 17, 2013

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Comments: To be fair, routes that have seen literally thousands of ascents can't accurately be described as dirty, loose, or dangerous. Indeed, one is hard-pressed to imagine a safer crag. Still, the charge is an uncomfortable issue.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Guide's Wall (5.8)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jul 16, 2013

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Comments: As Trevor said, a single 70-meter rope will work. The first rappel was the most challenging. I overshot the lone, tiny tree that is the only option we could find for splitting the traditional first 150' rap. Fortunately, my climbing partner got it on the way down, and I was able to tie in from my precarious perch 30' above the flake ledge. Other than that, the raps were straightforward with a single line.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : South Park : In the trees : Mr Hankey (5.12a)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 18, 2013

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Comments: Two more important holds are now gone.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Palisades Creek : Toys in the Attic (5.12c)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 8, 2013

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Comments: One of the best routes in all of Southeast Idaho. Amazing fun!

First Ascent, by the way, is Dean Lords, who equipped the route.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Pointless Crag : Sleepwalker (5.10d)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Steep is right! I found the crux to be pulling over the ledge.


Location: Idaho : Central Idaho : Box Canyon : Bardini Wall : Coral Sea (5.10a)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Good point, Dave. Sure, you'll forfeit some skin if you fall at several places on this route (like many slab routes), but an R rating implies the possibility of significant injury or death.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Paramount Rock : Dark Side (5.10a)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Can be protected traditionally if you're feeling adventurous.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Teton Dam (Lower Teton Rive... : Cheese Wedge (BDB Cluster)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: FYI, I've seen and heard rattlesnakes at or near this boulder more often than at any other place in the canyon. I think one lives under the large rock just right of Sakura.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Teton Dam (Lower Teton Rive... : Walrus : Grace Under Water (V3+)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: For a fat man, this sit start is incredibly challenging.


Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Teton Dam (Lower Teton Rive... : Walrus : The Walrus and the Carpente... (V2)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: FA is either Heather Lords or myself. I can't remember who climbed it first.
Inspiration



Location: Idaho : East Idaho : Teton Dam (Lower Teton Rive... : Slabtastic (BDB cluster) : Slabtastic face (V2-3 R)
By: Jaren Watson When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: Don't climb this. You'll die! Seriously, the face is filthy, and yes, it looks like a fun problem, but it's actually a death trap waiting to kill the crap out of you.


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