Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared LaVacque on Acromion Division, currently the...


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 86
Total Points: 5,347
Last Year: 305
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1770 | Routes 95 | Areas 36 | Photos 729 | Page Improvements | Comments 212 | Posts 8 | Stars 497 | Ratings 193
Page 2 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : South Gateway Rock : East Side : Silver Spoon (5.5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This line is 9a. If you can climb 9a and argue with my resume, call me out.

But, on an aside. This awesome rig was sketchier for me to climb, though great by all Garden standards, even after I was flashing consistently in the .12 grade in the 90s and redpointing .13/.14.

The lines in the Garden and the lines anywhere in the U.S. capped at .10, way prior to most of the comment making folks were born...and maybe your parents.

Old school 5.5-5.11 will kick your ass, get over it.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park Boulder Area : ... : Plethora Ninja (V5)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: That hold was sketchy in 2005, kinda surprised it's still there!


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The low XX marker on the photo is a great place to place a .75 cam, as there in no directional bolt. The purpose of this is to keep the rope out of the climbers way while climbing(and not between the legs).


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Sat Nam (5.13b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: 6/10/16 Sat Nam is probably closer to .13b now, versus .13a. At the end of the crux, 7 years ago, I broke a 15 pound undercling off, on my 2nd lap on the route. This hold(when intact) made the transition from just under the 3rd bolt much more fluid. It is now more thrutchy and the boulder problem keeps going for a couple more moves.
This route is now comparable in grade, though slightly taller than Harpooned on the Glenn, which is consensus .13b. So, for similar height and a boulder problem, ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : Naught For All (5.11a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This line is sketchy to lead. The reason being is that the potential to fall moving toward the 2nd bolt is higher than one would like and the fall would result in hitting the ledge and or shelf system, making the first bolt rather ineffective. The crux is more bouldery than All for Naught.

The moves from the 2nd bolt to the anchor can be done two different way, directionally. Either move up and then traverse left to the anchor, or keep the bouldery moves going by diagonally left and enjoying mo... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Pivot Point : Lower Pivot Point : All For Naught (5.10d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Cleaned the lichen and moss of of the holds today making the route much more appealing. Climbs better than it right-ward neighbor(in terms of being smooth and flowing well). A crashpad or stick clip is probably a good idea if you don't have gear prior to the first bolt, as the root system is an ankle loving nightmare.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Route Update:

As of 6/8/2016, almost a month since my last visit, the jugs to the right of the first bolt have broken, still leaving good holds, with one more that is loose(marked with an X). Upon descending to run another lap, I pulled a collection of holds of the large tufa-bucket.

Since my last visit, someone else exfoliated a large seemingly solid flake at the 3rd bolt. The grade became more reinforced with these two large breaks, but not by much. Unfortunately, the 3rd bolt area became l... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Heart Route (Free) (5.13b V10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome looking line! Is it graded .13b or d? A V10 move would make it .13d/.14a.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch one has 10 bolts with an optional 11th off to the left prior to the anchor.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Broken Bit (5.10d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jun 1, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pitch one has 11 bolts to a quick-link and chain anchor.


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Mecca Boulder Area : ... : Felicity (V4)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Man, if that doesn't look like a line that has your name written all over it...nice find. Reminds me of Awoman in terms of aesthetics (not its overall shape obviously).


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Luckily, Andy, the mosquitoes are at bay so far this year, so I will hold off on the propane deterrent. Someone else already installed signage though I have yet to locate it, because of the 4 times I have been there this season, there were other parties...and the last session, a total of 10 people other than myself. The shade is provided by the canopy as you well know, so no Home Depot run for that is necessary. Bolts are approximately every five feet...so I guess we could upgrade to 5/8 inch gl... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Mike L. Boltin (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stand and Deliver (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Chump Monkey Among Us. (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hello Chris, the comment on this route was applicable to some of the crux holds getting smaller since it was bolted...but not meaning that the route has gotten worse or anything, just that it has cleaned up a nicely, given the rock in the area. Basically, the grade became solidified and the route climbs nicely as a result of it, which, as you know at some of the other areas where exfoliation happens more frequently, the hold breaks can definitely alter the quality of the route. In the case of Th... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The comment made was from the first ascentionist, commenting on the original grade and how it has changed over the years.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: On similar rock certainly, similar features doubtful.. on similar rock. The features here are quite different from Wookie, Purinton(as you would know) and the other lot on the Glenn. But, my initial comment was to reflect that I went climbing with the bolting party yesterday and conversation was about the holds that had changed. That was the point. Given the fact that this wall went up before Weiner and the person speaking bolted the line, I think my comment stands as his observation. Troll on..... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : Onomatopoeia (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Over the bulge, holds have deteriorated, yielding a crux that is thinner and goes less easily the way it did when bolted originally. Harder more straight-forward sequences ... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Ravine Lake Climbing Areas : Weekender Wall : On Your Celtic Way (5.11+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Went out climbing with the 1st ascent party on a few routes at Weekender today and it is agreed that the holds have become smaller on this and others, causing the grades to be stiffer than they are in the guidebook and on MP. Granted the rock here exfoliates less than nearby areas, but over time has become less friable and cleaner. Approximate grade of this line is .11d or .11+ and solid at it.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely not the only one, Senor Clark Griswald. If we could somehow take the entire shit rock-band, minus the 20-40 or so lines that aren't complete seasonal freeze and thaw choss bombs, along the HWY, and place them on one cliff, the rest of it could be removed as well, as it exfoliates itself on a yearly basis. This place, and the entire highway, is a safety hazard for climbers and should be treated as such, not revered for its closeness...certainly not its quality. There are routes along t... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Bone Park Boulder Area : Plethora Boulder (Right Gon...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: It was removed by the user that submitted it a while back.


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I definitely think some of the lines are sandbagged, but definitely not all. For instance, I think Room climbs a bit more like a face climb and feels a bit less physical as a result even though it's letter grades harder. The middle grades at the wall are the ones that are a gray area, as they seem to require "body English" atypical of other areas. It reminds me of the physical nature of Rifle, which takes time to get used to the non-down pulling nature of the rock, but when you grow accustomed t... more >>


Location: AK : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Cave : Break the Chains (5.12a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Apr 8, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The first pitch is approximately 35 feet long. The first pitch anchor to the second anchor is approximately 40 feet, making the second anchor at approximately 70-75 feet. The third anchor is another 30-35 feet above the second. According to people who have been climbing in the area for many years and as of today, as a reference, there are a lot of holds in the first pitch and second pitch that have become smaller, both feet and hands. Calling the route a .12a/b or b might leave you feeling quite... more >>


Page 2 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>