REI Community


Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 86
Total Points: 5,485

17 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1915 | Routes 97 | Areas 36 | Approach Trails | Photos 795 | Page Improvements | Comments 230 | Posts 9 | Stars 538 | Ratings 210
Page 1 of 10.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Triangle Boulder Area : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: 4 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Looks like a great line!



Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Fairangel Walls : ... : Broken Head (5.13-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I agree, it is kind of hard to rate a contrived feature. This route definitely leaves a lot of "which way" should I go versus what was intended by the bolt line.
Because of the initial arching nature of bolts 1-3, I assumed Paul intended it to follow the harder crux, as there are holds to do it. Gus, after trying, thought going right made more sense for him. If the bolts were one foot left, it would certainly dictate the harder line, if the bolts were one foot right, it would certainly... more >>


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Hatcher Pass : Archangel Valley Sport and ... : Fairangel Walls : ... : Broken Head (5.13-)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 18, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: That's exactly why I posted the section that stated "IF" you adhere to the bolt line, the crux is ... and the route is ... If you want to climb the whole arete and not do the crux, which both Gus and Spenser didn't stick and Gus thought skipping it and using the arete was feasible, then do it. But, if that's the case, why would the route not just have been bolted on the arete? If you wander on any route you have a potential to change the grade. I guess, just do that. I hone... more >>


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Nine Mile Hill : Late Bloomer Boulder Area : ... : Bat Cave Traverse (Right to... (V10)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: A more contrived version of this route can be done by avoiding the larger holds and sticking to the crimps, which goes at V11, also done by Ed Strang.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Anchorage & South Central I...
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 9, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: That honestly depends on the season and the location. Sometimes winter comes early and sometimes late and there are seasons where precipitation is low for a winter. For instance, this last season was the highest in precipitation in the Anchorage area since the winter of 2012/13. Typically by late November/early December, we should be in the right range.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Left Cave : Seismic Wave (5.11b/c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Wavebolts?!?...What an atrocity!!!

Just kidding, thanks for upgrading hardware as usual :)


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Desert Devil (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 22, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Desert Devil isn't missing carabiners on the fixed draws. Emerald and the project to it's left have old runners that are missing the lower biner. Desert Devil has chain perma draws with biners.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Side Walls : Unknown 5.12 (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The nose feature right above the 3rd bolt is quite hollow and will eventually be exfoliated. If it weren't for this section the route would be much better.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : The Bunker : Tugging Softly (5.12+ V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 5.12+ and V7 don't coincide at all. V6 would be .12+, being either .12c, c/d or d. V7 is considered a crux sequence commensurate with .13a.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Endomorph Man (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 5 bolts to two-bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Loc-tite.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Endomorph Man (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Beta Alert: Stick clip the 1st bolt. Cruise up to the 2nd on pockets and crimps, veer right after clipping the 2nd, following face climbing style hands and slab foot movement, to clip the 3rd bolt out-stretched left from a 1/3 pad edge. Continue to the 4th and 5th bolt on easier terrain.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : South Mountain
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The link is dead in the "Getting There" section of the page. Can someone update it with new information?


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Mentor Cave : Mentor (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 15, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This route would be 4 starts if the crack under the roof and a few holds above weren't coated in chalk/sweat/rubber slime imported from Rifle. Aside from that, it's a great line.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Main Squeeze (5.11a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This is the best line on the wall and well worth doing.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Blisters in the Sun (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 14, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: 10 bolts to two bolt chain anchor.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Emerald (5.13+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Holds are broken. The epoxy reinforced holds are getting friable and the in-situ draws are missing lower carabiners.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Nothing's There (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The bee hive is still active and Arizona is known for Africanized Bees. Stay clear of the routes in the immediate area.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Death Row (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: This route, though lacking chalk, is doable, has great body position and more cruxy than its neighbor, to the left. Chalk it up, use the crack/shallow arete and Go!


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Arrowhead Wall : Thief Among Us (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Anyway...pending comments are on their way. Thief is definitely .12d~ at this point. There are more missing holds and some sequences have changed over the years.The sequence is made less direct in one particular section (to not spoil beta), though avoidable, by making much thinner direct moves, instead of traversing to a jug off right and then back into the route. a hold is epoxied back on, some holds are backed up preemptively. On the move to the mono, the supporting feet that once allowed a pe... more >>


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Great Lobster Dispute (5.10a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is more defined by cruxes and also a more "heady" lead for the aspiring 5.10 climber. It climbs well and is on quality rock for the HWY. It is not quite as stitched up as the other .10s on the cliff.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Shiner (5.10b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely the smoothest flowing, climbing wise. Still the HWY and holds break, but like the rest of the 10s on this cliff, are well trafficked and compact and HWY solid.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : 20/20 (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The anchor section collapsed a while back.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : Herbalistic Vision (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The anchor section collapsed a while back.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : Catalyst (5.13a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The crux holds are now broken and two of the clipping holds have broken leaving other similar, yet likely to break holds.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Sly (5.10b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Definitely bring a #2 for the top. The crack is casual in the dihedral and you could skip gear if you feel good about it, but a fall without it will certainly land your feet into one of a few ramp/ledges/shelves and not be pretty.


Page 1 of 10.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About