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Member Since: Dec 22, 2008
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Jared LaVacque

Point Rank: # 127
Total Points: 3,795

16 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jared LaVacque been climbing?










Contributions


All 1851 | Routes 95 | Areas 36 | Photos 749 | Page Improvements | Comments 225 | Posts 9 | Stars 532 | Ratings 205
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Left Cave : Seismic Wave (5.11b/c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: May 4, 2017

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Comments: Wavebolts?!?...What an atrocity!!!

Just kidding, thanks for upgrading hardware as usual :)


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Desert Devil (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 22, 2017

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Comments: Desert Devil isn't missing carabiners on the fixed draws. Emerald and the project to it's left have old runners that are missing the lower biner. Desert Devil has chain perma draws with biners.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Wookie Wall/Weiner Lake : Weiner Lake Routes : Right Side Walls : Unknown 5.12 (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Feb 14, 2017

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Comments: The nose feature right above the 3rd bolt is quite hollow and will eventually be exfoliated. If it weren't for this section the route would be much better.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : The Bunker : Tugging Softly (5.12+ V7)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 23, 2017

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Comments: 5.12+ and V7 don't coincide at all. V6 would be .12+, being either .12c, c/d or d. V7 is considered a crux sequence commensurate with .13a.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Endomorph Man (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 20, 2017

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Comments: 5 bolts to two-bolt anchor. Shares anchor with Loc-tite.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Endomorph Man (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 20, 2017

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Comments: Beta Alert: Stick clip the 1st bolt. Cruise up to the 2nd on pockets and crimps, veer right after clipping the 2nd, following face climbing style hands and slab foot movement, to clip the 3rd bolt out-stretched left from a 1/3 pad edge. Continue to the 4th and 5th bolt on easier terrain.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : **Phoenix Areas : South Mountain
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: The link is dead in the "Getting There" section of the page. Can someone update it with new information?


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Virgin River Gorge : Mentor Cave : Mentor (5.12b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: This route would be 4 starts if the crack under the roof and a few holds above weren't coated in chalk/sweat/rubber slime imported from Rifle. Aside from that, it's a great line.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Main Squeeze (5.11a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: This is the best line on the wall and well worth doing.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Blisters in the Sun (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: 10 bolts to two bolt chain anchor.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : The Emerald (5.13+)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: Holds are broken. The epoxy reinforced holds are getting friable and the in-situ draws are missing lower carabiners.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Nothing's There (5.12a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: The bee hive is still active and Arizona is known for Africanized Bees. Stay clear of the routes in the immediate area.


Location: Arizona : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : The Pond : Death Row (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jan 12, 2017

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Comments: This route, though lacking chalk, is doable, has great body position and more cruxy than its neighbor, to the left. Chalk it up, use the crack/shallow arete and Go!


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Arrowhead Wall : Thief Among Us (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: Anyway...pending comments are on their way. Thief is definitely .12d~ at this point. There are more missing holds and some sequences have changed over the years.The sequence is made less direct in one particular section (to not spoil beta), though avoidable, by making much thinner direct moves, instead of traversing to a jug off right and then back into the route. a hold is epoxied back on, some holds are backed up preemptively. On the move to the mono, the supporting feet that once allowed a pe... more >>


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Great Lobster Dispute (5.10a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: This is more defined by cruxes and also a more "heady" lead for the aspiring 5.10 climber. It climbs well and is on quality rock for the HWY. It is not quite as stitched up as the other .10s on the cliff.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Shiner (5.10b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Definitely the smoothest flowing, climbing wise. Still the HWY and holds break, but like the rest of the 10s on this cliff, are well trafficked and compact and HWY solid.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : 20/20 (5.12c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: The anchor section collapsed a while back.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : Herbalistic Vision (5.12d)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: The anchor section collapsed a while back.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : Catalyst (5.13a/b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: The crux holds are now broken and two of the clipping holds have broken leaving other similar, yet likely to break holds.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Goats Head Soup : Sly (5.10b)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments: Definitely bring a #2 for the top. The crack is casual in the dihedral and you could skip gear if you feel good about it, but a fall without it will certainly land your feet into one of a few ramp/ledges/shelves and not be pretty.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: The anchor and the churd band is most certainly gone for Herbalistic Vision and 20/20. All bolts are scary and suspect. Each time on the route, except for the first go to weight the bolts and check route quality, all hell broke loose. They are dry, but 8 years of seepage took already marginal rock and made it dangerous.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Seward Highway : Sky Pilot Areas : Sky Pilot : ... : Photo
By: Jared LaVacque When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: The left hand hold exploded in my face today, make jokes. The HWY is a savior's grace and a bomb, even within the most "solid". Come Join Us. And not climb here. Dirt with the left, dirt with the right, two times and 4 holds later. Much harder.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Whoa, so I can replace my Bosch with a spray can of bolts!? I am not sure we have a demographic statistician that specializes in Dew Mound routes yet. Not quite a budget for it at this point. Perhaps we can make a non-profit PFD campaign out of it? Anyway, not having bolts where gear can be placed is just fine. But, generally speaking, Andy, placing bolts in places where the rock is conducive and people can clip them without having to lasso them instead, is generally a popular trait some other s... more >>


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stonemaster (5.10c)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 29, 2016

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Comments: Lang, I dig. But, the same applies to the first pitch. The 1st bolt might as well be the 2nd. I changed the comment, to reflect that I was commenting on both pitches, but then rambled about the 1st, but didn't mean to disclude the 2nd.


Location: Alaska : Anchorage & South Central A... : Eagle River : Dew Mound : Dew Mound - Lower Wall : Stand and Deliver (5.13a)
By: Jared LaVacque When: Jul 27, 2016

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Comments: The crux is approximately V6 and on the stiff side of it, uses a series of 7 side-pulls and nothing down-pulling until after the finishing deadpoint. The feet are less than ideal going through the crux, especially the left ones. Pre-clip the 2nd bolt. There is no plausible clipping stance and the first functions more as a directional to keep the rope from between your legs. The first is easy to clip and is reachable as soon as you step off the ground. Falling with the 2nd clipped is safe but wil... more >>


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