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Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
Contact James Schroeder

James Schroeder
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Point Rank: # 215
Total Points: 2,529

85 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has James Schroeder been climbing?










Contributions


All 2617 | Routes 108 | Areas 38 | Photos 250 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 385 | Posts 986 | Stars 490 | Ratings 342
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Birch Tree Crack (5.8) : Photo
By: James Schroeder When: Feb 14, 2017

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Comments: Woodchuck, is this your photo? I can reassign it to you if you'd like.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 30, 2016

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Comments: Steve,

Thanks for your blessing on this - the Wisconsin climbing community will benefit greatly. I think with the addition of the bolts, this is destined to become a classic. Leading this on gear must have been quite an interesting experience - pre-send rituals or not. Hopefully the bolts will give modern-day climbers the opportunity to contemplate what was a bold, impressive ascent.

Cheers,
James


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Reserved Seating (5.10b)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: I think this is one of the best routes I have done in the RRG. I found it well-bolted, engaging and fun. Don't miss this one if you're at Pebble Beach and climb the grade.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Environmental Impact (5.7)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Tight hands down low. This might feel a little harder than 5.7 if you've got big paws.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Ju Ju (5.10a)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: A good line, but a little heady.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Brother Stair (5.9+)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 28, 2016

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Comments: Save your time and climb something more fun than this.


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: Admittedly, I changed the route description (and cleaned up some no longer relevant comments) to describe the route's current state. I didn't think you'd mind Nick - I apologize if my assumption was wrong. I thought about reassigning the route to me - but I felt you deserved the to keep the credit for the original contribution. Let me know if you think my solution warrants editing.

For what it's worth, I had a chanc... more >>


Location: Wisconsin : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 22, 2016

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Comments: The "Location" information looks like your words Nick.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: This looks cool, but I can't picture where it is on THR.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: James Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2016

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Comments: Isn't this the top of Cleo's Amphitheater?


Location: Wisconsin : Weidman Memorial Park : Northeast side of Narrows C... : Upper Guardrail Ridge : Mental Helen (V2+)
By: James Schroeder When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: This problem got considerably harder today as a key hold broke.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8)
By: James Schroeder When: Sep 21, 2016

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Comments: Ha!

Joel,

They can't all be four stars, and compared to adjacent routes, this is the last 5.8 I'd climb.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Prospect Point Pinnacle : Creamy Caesar (5.6)
By: James Schroeder When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: This would make a great final to pitch to a wintry ascent of Great Ridge. Felt very alpine-esque.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.11a)
By: James Schroeder When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: I move that the description of this route is the first MP description fully-plagiarized from Jay's new guidebook.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James Schroeder When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: I think the shift from thuggish offwidthing and weird pedestal humping, to steep face climbing throws people for a loop. I think the thing protects well (sling the block!), but the move off the pedestal is disconcerting for sure.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Indigo Billy (5.8)
By: James Schroeder When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: See here - What qualifies as a route?


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Stained (5.9)
By: James Schroeder When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Lots of hollow rock on this thing, and several of the bolts are in what I'd call questionable rock. Have your head on tight for this one if it's at your limit.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Double Elephant (V4)
By: James Schroeder When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: Jeez.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James Schroeder When: May 20, 2016

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Comments:
Chris treggE wrote:
The excellent first pitch of The Haunting.


Ha! It's not even a warmup for the warmup for the warmup for The Haunting.


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Beta vid:




Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Beta vid:




Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: James Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

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Comments: Hard to tell which is the "hidden hold" that separates BPL from BPR. I'm sure somebody, somewhere, knows and cares.


Location: Wisconsin : High Cliff State Park : North Side : A. Red Bird Statue Area : White Swan Drive (V1-2)
By: James Schroeder When: May 17, 2016

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Comments: Andy, any chance you can post a photo?


Location: Wisconsin : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Tombstone Direct (V5)
By: James Schroeder When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure ... more >>


Location: Illinois : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James Schroeder When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Personally, I find the climbing in the upper-runout to be engaging and rewarding. Because it can be easily protected, the lower-runout is a non-issue in my mind. I don't think the runouts are exceedingly dangerous, and even if they were, that wouldn't necessarily be a justification to retro-bolt this route. The route has been done dozens of times this way, and existed for many years in its current state - this ought to be plenty of reason to leave this route in its current state.

More generally... more >>


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