Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Before the whip (photo by Jay Knower)


Member Since: May 7, 2002
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact James M Schroeder

James M Schroeder
is a member of
Point Rank: # 184
Total Points: 3,199
Last Year: 566
Last 30 Days: 24
84 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has James M Schroeder been climbing?










James M Schroeder

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 2584 | Routes 102 | Areas 33 | Photos 249 | Page Improvements 18 | Comments 385 | Posts 975 | Stars 482 | Ratings 340
Page 1 of 16.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: 3 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Steve,

Thanks for your blessing on this - the Wisconsin climbing community will benefit greatly. I think with the addition of the bolts, this is destined to become a classic. Leading this on gear must have been quite an interesting experience - pre-send rituals or not. Hopefully the bolts will give modern-day climbers the opportunity to contemplate what was a bold, impressive ascent.

Cheers,
James


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Reserved Seating (5.10b)
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is one of the best routes I have done in the RRG. I found it well-bolted, engaging and fun. Don't miss this one if you're at Pebble Beach and climb the grade.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Environmental Impact (5.7)
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Tight hands down low. This might feel a little harder than 5.7 if you've got big paws.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Ju Ju (5.10a)
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: A good line, but a little heady.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Brother Stair (5.9+)
By: James M Schroeder When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: Save your time and climb something more fun than this.


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Admittedly, I changed the route description (and cleaned up some no longer relevant comments) to describe the route's current state. I didn't think you'd mind Nick - I apologize if my assumption was wrong. I thought about reassigning the route to me - but I felt you deserved the to keep the credit for the original contribution. Let me know if you think my solution warrants editing.

For what it's worth, I had a chanc... more >>


Location: WI : Necedah (Petenwell Bluff) : Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall : Glass Balls (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The "Location" information looks like your words Nick.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This looks cool, but I can't picture where it is on THR.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: Nov 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Isn't this the top of Cleo's Amphitheater?


Location: WI : Weidman Memorial Park : Northeast side of Narrows C... : Upper Guardrail Ridge : Mental Helen (V2+)
By: James M Schroeder When: Oct 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This problem got considerably harder today as a key hold broke.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : Lower Diagonal (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Ha!

Joel,

They can't all be four stars, and compared to adjacent routes, this is the last 5.8 I'd climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - West Rampart : Prospect Point Rampart : Prospect Point Pinnacle : Creamy Caesar (5.6)
By: James M Schroeder When: Sep 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This would make a great final to pitch to a wintry ascent of Great Ridge. Felt very alpine-esque.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart : Plethora (5.11a)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I move that the description of this route is the first MP description fully-plagiarized from Jay's new guidebook.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: James M Schroeder When: Aug 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I think the shift from thuggish offwidthing and weird pedestal humping, to steep face climbing throws people for a loop. I think the thing protects well (sling the block!), but the move off the pedestal is disconcerting for sure.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : 6.0 - Balanced Rock Wall : Indigo Billy (5.8)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jul 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: See here - What qualifies as a route?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Stained (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Lots of hollow rock on this thing, and several of the bolts are in what I'd call questionable rock. Have your head on tight for this one if it's at your limit.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : West Bluff Bouldering : West Bluff South : ... : Double Elephant (V4)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 27, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Jeez.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments:
Chris treggE wrote:
The excellent first pitch of The Haunting.


Ha! It's not even a warmup for the warmup for the warmup for The Haunting.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Beta vid:




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Just Another Sick Old New R... (V1)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Beta vid:




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff North : ... : Photo
By: James M Schroeder When: May 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Hard to tell which is the "hidden hold" that separates BPL from BPR. I'm sure somebody, somewhere, knows and cares.


Location: WI : High Cliff State Park : North Side : A. Red Bird Statue Area : White Swan Drive (V1-2)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 17, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Andy, any chance you can post a photo?


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Tombstone Direct (V5)
By: James M Schroeder When: May 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I think this is often confused with Tombstone Classic which goes up to the good edges just left of the crack and was first climbed by Gill in the 50's or 60's.

Tombstone Direct goes up and left, avoiding the good edges to the right and the hand crack to the left. The direct is a typical DL eliminate deal, you know, do the first third of a classic, then do two contrived moves to avoid the easy part and then rejoin the classic. I think EZ did the direct first, but I'm not 100% sure ... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Personally, I find the climbing in the upper-runout to be engaging and rewarding. Because it can be easily protected, the lower-runout is a non-issue in my mind. I don't think the runouts are exceedingly dangerous, and even if they were, that wouldn't necessarily be a justification to retro-bolt this route. The route has been done dozens of times this way, and existed for many years in its current state - this ought to be plenty of reason to leave this route in its current state.

More generally... more >>


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Hidden Peaks : Unclaimed (5.9)
By: James M Schroeder When: Apr 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I totally disagree. There is no reason to add more bolts to this route. A well-placed C4 can protect the bottom runout and the upper runout, while spicy, is not in ground-fall territory (and it's also much easier than the climbing it takes to get there). Not everything needs to be accessible to people on their first day out of the gym.


Page 1 of 16.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>