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Member Since: Jun 1, 2005
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Total Points: 4,595

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 1609 | Routes 188 | Areas 85 | Approach Trails | Photos 287 | Page Improvements | Comments 366 | Posts 182 | Stars 484 | Ratings 17
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : High Fructose Corn Syrup (5.8)
By: James Garrett When: 1 day ago

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Comments: Yes, the convenient steel lower off carabiners do NOT negate the need that one should still use one's own locking carabiners when repeatedly lowering and TRing the route. The Steel ones there are already second generation despite the relative young age of the route. The anchor consists of two glue in bolts securing the steel Biners, but I anticipate replacing the steel lower off carabiners once again before winter to insure ongoing safety concerns. The sad accident that occurred earlier in... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : East Hellgate : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Aug 7, 2017

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Comments: Very confusing to me, as well. Part of the blame should be put on all the climbing magazine action shots glorifying people NOT wearing helmets. It just isn't cool to be seen wearing a helmet. Many will wear a helmet biking, but not for climbing. I guess their hair doesn't look as good for the photos.
I don't even walk around the base of the walls without a helmet anymore. And I am sure I look like a dork:)


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Top anchor repaired and ready to go


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Six Pence (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Thankyou


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Solitude : Top Summit : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: OK, I stand corrected, it is just out of the photo down left below the ridge. The top of the Summit Chair (Solitude) is indeed quite a ways above the Twin Lakes Reservoir and the Millie Lift (Brighton) is NOT the Summit Chair.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10b)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 24, 2017

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Comments: OK, thanks for bringing this to our attention.
My earlier fears that it seemed to be bad rock where the glue-in replaced the other one must be the cause.
I believe it was previously a 3 bolt anchor and we replaced a spinner. Do two bolts still remain there?

I would suggest people stay off this route at least for a couple of days and then I will hope to return there and redo the anchor.

Thanks again for your understanding. I would love to see the bolt that pulled out if possible. I will driv... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Brighton's Frighton Wall
By: James Garrett When: Jul 21, 2017

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Comments: Early season (standing water), warm nights, a fresh hatch, and yes to some extent, Bad luck.



Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Snowbasin : Mt. Ogden : The Gray Slabs (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Yes, I agree with previous statements about the tag lines. Although they are hardly as bad as I expected. Please just use them for a point of reference only. Do NOT trust them.

I recently climbed those pitches and found the left facing dihedral hand crack on the second tier of jumbledness to be really fun and solid 5.4 or 5.5 fun. I never once even came close to following the tag line...it was well to my left (south).

That said, the route is seeing some traffic and I hope to do Full Battle ... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Cool:)! Surrounded by English Teachers....or trolls:)?? I stand corrected. That's a solid 10.4 on Emergent. Geez, Bois, you sure know how to call it. Love you guys, what would MP be like without you??:) very boring, I'm sure.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : ... : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: This sawed off USSR era Russian Titanium Piton was placed during the original ascent in 1988 when only a few hand drilled bolts were placed on the entire route on lead. I did add the chain at a later time.
An emergent rappel would not even pass by this belay (#2). It is off to the left (two glue-in bolts) and used for rappel only. The rappel stations were equipped at a time when maybe 5 ascents were undertaken each summer, nowadays 5 ascents per day (even on weekdays) is probably a more accurat... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Triangle Wall : Stratosphere (5.10c/d C1+) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Jun 23, 2017

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Comments: DCool,
Glad you got down OK, but I have great memories of the 5th pitch so I respectfully disagree with you.
I think it is a great pitch, and in turn offers a very straight down (albeit wildly overhanging!) rappel to the rappel station at the top of Pitch #2.
Pitch #5 was also a bold and wild lead that Seth Shaw led on his only trip up to Stratosphere. I again returned with Dave Anderson and I retro-drilled the 5th pitch on lead with bigger bolts with my first Bosch Bulldog.
If the tree is an i... more >>


Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : The Arizona Strip : Lime Kiln Canyon : The Sacred Trust : Secret Tryst (5.11b)
By: James Garrett When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: FA: James Garrett and Franziska Garrett
Is the wall register still there? Or is it in pieces and needs removal?
Thanks!


Location: Utah : West Desert : Steamboat Pass : Through the Never (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: I have to agree with Sam's comment on the quality limestone. Repeated this Classic (IMHO) trad route Easter Sunday with good friend Kris Pietryga. The first pitch (if you choose to belay there) does have two vertically stacked bolts for the belay. The original sling connecting the two was probably removed due to wear. the anchor was set this way so that the two could be tied together as well as offer a higher up clip above the belay.

The other bolts and museum worthy pitons... more >>


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : The Road to Mecca (5.5)
By: James Garrett When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: And use glue in Wave bolts or equivalent going forward would be a lot better for climbers wanting to repeat these routes.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower : Winged Warrior (5.10 A1) : Photo
By: James Garrett When: Apr 8, 2017

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Comments: Wow, Way to tag the summit!!! Beautiful.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: James Garrett When: Feb 26, 2017

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Comments: It has been a super long time and unless people have added stations, I think two ropes would be prudent:).... lots of air rappelling .... probably possible if you rap the line of ascent..


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Easy Eshi (5.9)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: Much more cleaning done, a few SS bolts added with permission of First Ascensionist, destined for super classic status at AG:)! The most fun multi-pitch route at AG! 60m rope obligatory, 70m probably best for abseiling the upper pitch.


Location: Africa : Ethiopia : Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa) : Tenish Tenish (5.10)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 19, 2016

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Comments: So clean, a couple bolts added to make it even MORE climber friendly! Belay bolt at landing.


Location: Asia : United Arab Emirates
By: James Garrett When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: I am very interested in making a spontaneous and brief visit to Dubai but only if I can get in some rock climbing ... so surprised to see the good reports here about the quality and quantity of the offerings.
So, what is the latest? Is it possible to find partners and access to the climbing areas pretty easy these days? Would love to do some routes!


Location: Europe : Greece : Kalymnos : Telendos Island : South Face : ... : Wings for Life (5.10a)
By: James Garrett When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: in the high season, boats leave almost every half hour from 0700 on every day to the South Face. Very convenient connections and the boatmen are very accommodating. The multipitch routes deservedly are becoming super popular.


Location: Africa : Kenya : Hells Gate
By: James Garrett When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Any partners available in mid November for climbing? Which is more recommended? Hellsgate ? Or Lukenya? Or both? May have a free week.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Strone Crag : Itchy Scratchy (5.7)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 7, 2016

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Comments: Super fun, I am sure their are more than a few out there scratching their heads wondering why they didn't get to this first:). Loved it and look forward to next time!


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Long Dong Silver Area : Long Dong Silver (5.9 A3)
By: James Garrett When: Oct 7, 2016

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Comments: Strong work Cole! ...I was too scared and creeped out:)!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower One : Hell is for Children (5.6)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 27, 2016

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Comments: Hellgate Highway was occupied, which was a first for me having someone on a Main Hellgate route at the same time I was up there:)...so we visited the Hell is For Children Area (another first for Franziska and me)....it is quite good and it was heart warming to do a route by some genuine 90's era Alta locals Danny Caruso (now a long time living and skiing in Davos, Switzerland) and Bill Hunt, aka the King of Hellgate...both of whom I haven't seen in ages an... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Triangle Wall : Stratosphere (5.10c/d C1+)
By: James Garrett When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: If the Pitch#4 "belay tree" is indeed dead, by all means....the next party to go up is encouraged to install a new two-bolt belay nearby. Thanks for the update. I think the last pitch was equipped with bigger bolts than the 1/4"ers drilled by hand on the FA.


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