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Member Since: Jul 22, 2009
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 4,331
Total Points: 155

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has JSlack been climbing?


All 217 | Routes 11 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 6 | Page Improvements | Comments 8 | Posts 67 | Stars 122 | Ratings 2

Contributed Comments


Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Tuolumne Meadows > Mt. Conness > South West Face (Harding) R... (5.10c)
By: JSlack When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Pitch 1 is (mostly) dry as of 9/7/14. This was a full value route. We did it in 8 pitches, taking 9 hours. The pitch 2 crux is short and well-protected, and it is quite possible to, ahem, uh, stem through the 10a offwidth bit (which I followed). We brought doubles through #3 C4, plus a green big bro and #6 C4. I also threw in extra yellow and orange Mastercams and was happy to have them for building belays as pitches 2-7 (as we did them) are all rope stretchers. Fun route that never lets up.

Location: California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Auburn SRA > Cave Valley (aka Auburn Qua... > ... > Human Oddity (5.11d)
By: JSlack When: Nov 25, 2013

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Comments: Great route! Definitely the best thing we got on at ASRA.

The jug to the left of the sloping hole (1st crux) is now gone. A football-sized block came down while my buddy was pulling on it. It makes that sequence a bit harder, but the route is still pretty soft at 12a.

Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > The Brickyard > ... > Grotesque Old Woman (V7+)
By: JSlack When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Traversing in on crimps from the left is a fun way to do this thing without the dyno. It still has great movement and you still get the balancy, slopey top-out. V6?

Honing in on the real deal...

Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Painted Cave > ... > Static Head (V6)
By: JSlack When: Feb 25, 2013

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Comments: Shouldn't this be called Baby Eliminator?

Location: California > Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks > Tahquitz Rock > (d) Northwest Recess > The Consolation (5.9)
By: JSlack When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: After three pitches, rather than head left and finish on Whodunit we climbed up and slightly right for one junky pitch (~100ft). We belayed on a nice ledge from which I found a stellar fingertips-layback to steep hands pitch (9+/10-). From the top of this we trended a bit further right and finished up on Long Climb I believe. I highly recommend this as the tips-layback pitch was the best on the climb. I would love to know what climb that pitch belongs to.

Location: California > Central Coast > Santa Barbara > * Santa Barbara Bouldering > Potter's Point > ... > Debra (V8)
By: JSlack When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Nice work Andy! Glad to see this thing finally go. I'm shocked that, after two years, that starting block is still attached.

Location: California > Yosemite National Park > Yosemite Valley > Cathedral Spires Area > Higher Cathedral Rock > Northeast Buttress (5.9+ PG13)
By: JSlack When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Amazing route! Very steep and super physical / sustained after P5. Me and my partner were both solid 5.10 leaders but we were both hurting by the end. Still, in my opinion, the route deserves the 5.9 rating (it's Yosemite folks) and is definitely not PG-13. Every pitch protects just fine. Do this climb!

Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower One > Ruper (5.8+)
By: JSlack When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: I just climbed this today. Amazing climb. One of the best 5.8s I've ever done. I disagree with the "mandatory" #4. I did this climb without one and felt fine. It is possible to get a good #3 low in the "Ruper Crack" then many good placements for smaller gear begin about 8 feet higher. Even if you don't have the big stuff, this climb is do-able and totally worth doing.

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