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Member Since: Jun 28, 2010
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Point Rank: # 445
Total Points: 1,480

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Jack Sparrow been climbing?










Contributions


All 1590 | Routes 131 | Areas 10 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements | Comments 82 | Posts 106 | Stars 843 | Ratings 414
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Hey michalm, it's been a bit since Ibe been on it but for the roof when you get the first bad sloper for right hand I jack my right knee up and slot in a knee bar next to the right hand sloper at this point if you get the knee good it's agame changer and you can reach over the lip. I'm fuzzy on specifics but mess around with the knee bar. It worked very well for me, I thought it made a burly v4 feel v2 if you fit the knee bar


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Curvaceous (5.11)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: I think this route is 5.8, probably soft for the grade. Wahoooooooooooooo.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Hands of Destiny (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 8, 2017

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Comments: This is one of the premier lines of Boulder Canyon. A true face climbing granite testpiece. I've climbed a lot in Bo Can, and I feel like Hands of Destiny is what it's all about for Bo Can rock climbing.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Too Many Puppies (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 11, 2016

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Comments: The 8a.nu approved beta is as follows good left hand side pull on face, high slopey right foot ,right hand hits an intermediate shit crimp then big stand up move into a huge underclings in the roof that connects to the other wall. Porter said so himself, jk. You can go straight up on the arête as well. My understanding is they are around the same difficulty, but if your short going straight up might be the only way. Awesome route with crazy rock on it.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Pine (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: Awesome climb, very similar to it's neighbor just a smidge harder with more underclings. Instead of waiting in line for ro come get on this one it's better and harder


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Appalachian Spring (5.13a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 9, 2016

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Comments: One of the best routes in the red or anywhere for that matter.. Huge dynamic climbing, that leads into a sustained beautiful face climb. Hyper classic. Also if orange juice is getting slammed get on this, it's better and no one hardly does it. Even weeks after doing it I can't get this route out of my head.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Are the Pies Fresh? (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 29, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Steiner the first pitch is awesome and the crux on the upper pitch is cool but the rest of the route sucks. Prolly better to stop a pitch one


Location:
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 23, 2016

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Comments: Oh my god


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Funk Rock City : Hardcore Jollies (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: Hey tony is there any route you have added online and not downgraded. Just curious, I'm sure in eldo this would be 5.9+. Righhhhht


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : Alabalik : Brazilia Carnaval (5.11b/c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 10, 2016

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Comments: Well ken I'm a bit surprised to see this at 11.-. If you think there is no move harder than 10 d. I'll respectfully disagree and say compared to routes in the red river gorge or many areas in co or any sport climbing destination I've been to the grade feels on point. Perhaps you climb in the gunks or eldo or maybe Yosemite in which case this climb may very well seem 11a/b. but this is a sport climbing destination and like or not but shit is graded a little differently in sport areas. Cheers


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Kulluin : Ruzgarli Bahce : Brandia rosa (5.10d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: A not so great warm up that follows a big flake to a thin dihedral enjoy using two sharp monos for clips. The moderates in this area are seriously lacking in quality.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Olympos : Cennet (Jennet) : Bittersweet (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Nice vertical route with a crimp crux down low to a hard move up high finishes on some grovelly five ten climbing. Some of the rock is a little fragile. Take in the view at the top pretty awesome.


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Alabalik (Salmon) : Alabalik : Akintiya karsi yuzmek (5.11)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 24, 2016

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Comments: Climb up to a tufa then follow a system of crimps up the face. Beautiful and sustained climbing the whole way


Location: Europe : Turkey : Antalya Geyikbayiri : Trebenna West Right : Diplomarbit (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 19, 2016

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Comments: A great technical climb with lots of slopers crimps and intriguing body positions. Crux towards the top perfect rock with powerful techy moves


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Super Slab (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 18, 2015

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Comments: After trying most of the classic routes in the red up to 13a, this one takes the cake for my favorite rock climb in the gorge and maybe of all time. Stunning rock with perfect beautiful technical climbing the whole way. I dont think climbing gets any better than this. Save it for good temps it's much better with good friction.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Left Flank : Mercy the Huff (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: Absolutely stunning rock climb. The five ten finish is frustratingly hard on point.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Bald Rock Recreational Pres... : The Motherlode : Buckeye Buttress : Stain (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: This has some of the best movement ive found anywere, incredible.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 24, 2015

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Comments: So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of ston... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Days of Future Passed aka O... (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : Upper Sense of Religion : ... : Rain of Gold (5.13b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: This is a sweet route. One of the better hard pitches in the potrero. It looks completely impossible from the ground but there are decent holds the whole way. Great rock, amazing face climbing on positive pockets and crimps. The route would go at 12+ if it wasn't for the vicious boulder problem mid way. Think tiny pockets and a very high foot. I think it climbs better than weeping Jesus but not nearly as popular.


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : Devil's Cabaña Boy (5.12d)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 24, 2014

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Comments: The second pitch of this route has to be one of the greatest climbs on earth. The movement is outrageously cool, be thinking epic flags and drop knees with huge tufas and underclings. Crux near the belay and a redpoint crux exiting the tufa chandelier. The exposure is heroic on this as well. It's a lot like celestial omnibus only more tufas and longer. The only downside to this route is some of the tufas are a little dirty. I don't think this pitch gets climbed much which is unfortunate because ... more >>


Location: North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : The Outrage Wall : El Hoyito (5.12a)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: This is a VERY unique route. I felt like I was climbing a wall of porcelain no friction at all. Very different for potrero not many positive holds after the crux. Felt a bit like slippery down under only a lot harder. This is called 11c/d in Eds guidebook and its complete bs this route is without a doubt 12a. One of the most unique rock climbs I've ever been on. Stellar


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Peer Review (5.12b)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 7, 2014

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Comments: Drew, are you trolling? Saying this route has good feet is kind of ridiculous, and just 'cause you're taller certainly doesn't make this move that much easier. An OS would be proud. I would argue that Ten Digit Dialing is slightly easier and Balkan Dirt Diving is significantly easier.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : The French Are Here (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Dec 4, 2014

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Comments: This is probably one of the best hard twelves at Shelf. Usually at this grade, the holds are very small and sharp where a high pain tolerance is necessary. This is not the case on the French are here, the crux holds are amazing not sharp or even that small. It's a little steeper than the average Shelf route too. The only downside for me is the old school bolting, clipping the fourth bolt when your pumped on point is very exciting. I would not want to fall with clipping slack out. Overall, an ama... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Fapanese Direct (5.12c)
By: Jack Sparrow When: Oct 28, 2014

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Comments: Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel... more >>


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