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Member Since: Oct 30, 2002
Last Visit: Jan 13, 2012
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 599 | Routes | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 38 | Posts 558 | Stars 2 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Rock Island I
By: jack roberts When: Sep 2, 2011

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Comments: It should be noted that this crag was first developed about 20 years ago as a DRYTOOLING practice area. Several of the top rope anchors were placed for this purpose....

People should not freak out if climbers show up with crampons and ice tools and begin using these tools on the rock.... Rock climbing is a secondary sport here.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Second Tier : ... : Dominator (5.10c)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 24, 2010

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Comments: Actually the last bolt is still there with the nut on it, the hanger is what is missing.

When we climbed it on June 24th, 2010, you could slip a thin wired stopper over the nut and between the rock and bolt so that the last few moves could be protected. Seems silly that the last bolt is unclippable since there are eight bolts on the route.

Either chop it or don't...A GREAT climb!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Third Buttress : Ah Maw (5.10a PG13)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 4, 2010

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Comments: On June 3, 2010, Michele Beaty and I did what might be either a new route or a combination of routes to the top of the 4th Elephant Buttress.

We began climbing 15 feet to the right of the start for Monster Woman. It was unprotected but moderate in difficulty up a right-facing dihedral, and I could place a good cam. A bit further I clipped an old 3/4 angle piton with a broken eye. From here, I went straight up through corners and discontinuous cracks and flakes until I got to a spot where I h... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: jack roberts When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Come on you guys. This route is pretty tame by today's standards..........

I'm just glad it has not been bolted...............there is a story............


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Dihedrals Area : Equipment Overhang (5.11a)
By: jack roberts When: May 31, 2010

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Comments: Just saw this.

Frank Trummel was my partner on the FA. Glad people are still enjoying it.


Location: California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b)
By: jack roberts When: May 10, 2010

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Comments: Did this route just yesterday (may 9th, 2010).

The only wet spot was crossing the pendulum pitch. We stayed pretty dry. The waterfall is boiling but where you have to cross it there is an obvious crack that you can climb even when wet. We could place adequate protection and the rest of the way was a hoot and dry.

The rappel down can be done with one 70m rope.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : The Thang aka Frigid Insemi... (WI5+ M5+ R)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: This route was first led by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance around 1985. Paul aided the first three bolts and then finished the rest free. Steve followed it free. Don't know who did the first free ascent on lead.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Rigid Designator Amphitheat... : Aberrant Behavior aka LoweK... (WI6+ M7)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: I'm pretty sure that Alex did this route about one day before Jeff.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Log-Jammin' (WI3-4 M4-5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: "Log-Jammin'", is the original name given to it by Paul Sibley and Steve Pomerance who did the FA.

Any other name is just make-believe....


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Boxed In (aka Stemcicle) (WI5- M6+)
By: jack roberts When: Mar 19, 2010

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Comments: This route was first climbed in 1996 by Charlie Fowler and his partner, named Stephan. Instead of the two bolts that have just recently been placed three pitons were fixed (later two) and left in place.

The original name given by Charlie, which I feel should still be honored, is "BOXED IN".


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Left Side aka Pin... (WI3 M5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: This route has been climbed as and named as East Face Left Side.
First known ascent was by Bob Culp and partner 40 years ago. The name Pink Dreams is incorrect and should be stricken from the records........


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Flatirons : East Face Gully aka Silk Ro... (WI3 M5 R)
By: jack roberts When: Feb 19, 2010

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Comments: As George stated, this route has been known for over 50 years as the East Face Gully NOT Silk Road. It is wrong and incorrect to assign another name for this route just because it has also been climbed as an ice/mixed route.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Direct West Face a/k/a West... (5.11b)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 23, 2009

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Comments: Dougald and I did this route today and we confirm the 4star quality rating. This is the best route that has been placed since the bolt ban went into effect. A climb which has tremendous exposure, exceptional rock quality and combines sustained fingery and balance climbing with the occasional thuggish move. We broke this up into two pitches. A #3 and #2 Camalot would be perfect for the belay.

Thanks to all the first ascentionists for doing such a fine job.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Spear Me the Details (5.11d)
By: jack roberts When: Sep 11, 2009

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Comments: Paul Gagner and I did this route yesterday (Sept.10, 2009) and were grateful for the hard work that Eli put in replacing the crux pitons and putting in BIG new bolts. Makes the route much safer than the older bolts.

This route can easily be done in five 60m pitches. We had a 70m rope and probably, had we not forgotten most of our slings and left them at home, could have done it in four pitches. AN AWESOME ROUTE!!!

The walk off down the East Ledges descent route was very quick....


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Glacier Gorge : ... : Black Lake - West Gully (WI3-4)
By: jack roberts When: Nov 18, 2008

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Comments: Went up again to All-Mixed-Up today (Nov. 18) and BOY! has it changed up there in the past two days. Lots of melting and not much freezing. A lot of the ice that was there a week ago has disappeared and not even left a wet spot it is so warm.

AMU itself is still standing but just barely. If you go up, take more rock gear than usual. We got in a few good screws but the ice on the overlaps is just about history. The approach is easier as a result of all the melting.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Water Line (5.11a)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 5, 2008

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Comments: Did this route today. It looks like it needs a good scrubbing, and probably it would help the route quality by at least one star if it was a bit cleaner; however, it has some very good moves on it and the pro is very good up until the bolt after the bolt there really isn't any protection but the climbing (if you go right just after the bolt) kicks wayyyyy back to easy 5th. Maybe more like 5.10d than 5.11a. Go left and the climbing is more scruffy and harder.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Alice in Bucketland (5.8+ R)
By: jack roberts When: Jun 14, 2008

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Comments: Buzz,

I think you've been climbing in the gym too much. This route is no more difficult that 5.8, even by today's standards. Maybe you are making the entry move from the roof onto the face above in a difficult place but grading this climb 5.9 is way off.


Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed
By: jack roberts When: Mar 3, 2008

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Comments: CONDITION REPORT:

For those lost souls like myself who just must climb ice until the end.
I'm in Telluride at the moment and this is what I know.

Silver Pick is IN at WI4 and looking good. We punched a trail in.
Coronet is gone, gone, gone.
Bridalveil is looking fat and there is so much snow at the bottom the first pitch is practically buried.
Ames Ice Hose is totally in shape. Again, the first pitch is really buried under snow from above but the rest of the climb is in thick shape.

Gravity... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : The Untitled (5.12a)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 20, 2007

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Comments: Funny that I have never checked out this thread before, but here is Bret's and my version of what occurred that day. Bret contacted me the previous day about coming up to Cadillac Crag to climb what has now been called either Fuzzy Dice or Untitled. I agreed. We wanted to try and drill the route on the lead, ground up. As far as Bret (or I) knew, no one else had ever been on this route before although we knew that Richard had been checking out various lines in the area. To the best of our k... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Chick on the Side (5.10b/c)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 19, 2007

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Comments: I managed to do the opening moves to the first jug statically, but it was awkward and I had to stem out left and under the overlap. I agree with the sharp and crimpy hold business, but I think 10b is a fair grade. This isn't Boulder Canyon. The tree needs to be trimmed at the top! Protection is good and the moves are interesting.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Bloke On The Side (5.9+ R)
By: jack roberts When: Oct 19, 2007

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Comments: I found the gear and protection to be fine on both pitches. The rock quality could be a bit better, but overall it's fine.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10c)
By: jack roberts When: Sep 20, 2007

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Comments: I did this route yesterday and it felt no harder than 5.10a/b. The climbing is mainly sustained 5.9 with one, maybe two cruxes but there are a couple of different ways to climb around those depending on the usual variables........flexibility, finger strength, height etc. Nevertheless, fine classic Platte slab climbing!!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: jack roberts When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: I was trolling up and down Boulder Canyon today looking at rock which has yet to be developed or probably even climbed, and it reminded me that in order to put up new trad routes around here one would have to be willing to put in a lot of work. Much of the remaining rock is dirty, the cracks may not be that great for protection, bushwacking of course to the base of the climb and maybe not climbing really hard grades. Of course, most of us put up first ascents in the first place mainly for adve... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: jack roberts When: Sep 12, 2007

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Comments: Why aren't more trad lines going up? There is plenty of new rock to be climbed in Boulder Canyon but it seems that most of the new routes are sport. Is it because the majority of climbers that are getting into rock climbing these days are sport climbers and sport climbers are mainly only interested in the physical aspect of climbing, not in the mental stress that comes with placing gear? Trad climbers seem pretty complacent when it comes to first ascents in BC. I've recently done a couple o... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)
By: jack roberts When: Aug 21, 2007

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Comments: Did this route about three weeks ago with two friends and we all thought it was a "CLASSIC" alpine ridge. The 5.7 direct start is easy for its grade, and if you aren't just a punter who only clips bolts in a gym, placing pro is a snap. We didn't experience any unsafe run-outs. The positions on the ridge are pretty classic. We stayed on the crest of the ridge the entire way and got sweeping vistas along the route. Going to either side of the ridge does provide less than desireable quality ro... more >>


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