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Member Since: Jun 26, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact j wharton

Point Rank: # 1,677
Total Points: 462
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 2
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has j wharton been climbing?










Contributions


All 110 | Routes 33 | Areas 6 | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 37 | Posts | Stars 33 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

The Naked Truth (FA)

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 40'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Nude Buttress

Jul 4, 2006

The Unspoken Truth (FA)

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b (1)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Nude Buttress

Jul 4, 2006

Pete-15

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c (2)

Sport, TR, 1 pitch

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Big Wild Boulder

Jul 1, 2006

Shake Yer Money Maker

5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b (2)

Sport, 1 pitch, 30'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Big Wild Boulder

Jun 28, 2006

Wild Thing

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c (11)

Sport, 1 pitch, 90'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 28, 2006

Problem Child

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b (20)

Sport, 1 pitch, 85'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Wild Rock

Jun 27, 2006

The Avenger (FA)

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 (8)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

I'll be Black

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b (41)

Sport, 1 pitch, 60'

CO : Independence Pass : ... : Sunset Cliff

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Mount Hooker

WY : Wind River Range : Baptiste Lake

Aug 17, 2014

Alberta Falls Wall

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice

Jan 30, 2014

Nude Buttress

CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area

Jul 4, 2006

Big Wild Boulder

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 28, 2006

Wild Rock

CO : Independence Pass : Wild Rock Area

Jun 27, 2006

Sunset Cliff

CO : Independence Pass : Lincoln Creek

Jun 27, 2006

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Free-version topo.

Free-version topo.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Dunn Westbay (5.10 C3)

Aug 10, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Frisky Cliff : The Borg (5.13c)
By: j wharton When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I fell and hung on all the bolts in 2016, and they're fine.

Great route. A tricky opening jump into sustained roof climbing, that sticks with you all the way until you rock onto the slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Tourist Extravagance (5.12d)
By: j wharton When: Nov 13, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is an awesome little route deserving of more attention. Similar in style, albeit much harder, to the "first" pitch of CCC.

I'm not sure if it has lost holds since the FFA, but it's definitely 5.13 in its current state. I'd call the opening boulder V8 or V9. It involves a tricky stab to a mono and then a creative gaston/thumb catch. This sequence will be very hard for the short.

The upper half of the ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : The Honeymoon is Over (5.13c)
By: j wharton When: Aug 15, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The belays have changed! See details below:

Eric Doub did an incredible job envisioning and establishing this route, and Tommy's FA style is remarkable. Someone is going to have to flash, or onsight the route to better his effort! Given the traffic it's received recently and the way it's cleaning up, I think this route is one of, if not the best, hard alpine rock route in the lower 48.

However, last year after redpointing the route, I... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Grizzly (5.12 WI5+ M10 R)
By: j wharton When: Dec 17, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I thought it was good, Eli. Definitely the hardest route at the crag. A little spicy due to the ledges and gear that's a bit hard to see from below. The lost arrow fell out on me, but there's a good red C3 where it was. I left the orange cam fixed. Thanks for another great route!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Bear Lake and Bear's Den : ... : Grizzly (5.12 WI5+ M10 R)
By: j wharton When: Dec 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Be sure to pre-clip the second bolt on this route; either with a stick clip, or by levering off the first bolt. Otherwise the crux move has very serious ledgefall potential.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : The Free Hallucinogen Wall (5.13 R)
By: j wharton When: Oct 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is probably my favorite route in the Black, HK is not exaggerating when he says it's MEGA! Hopefully someone will do a ground-up free ascent soon, as it would certainly be very cool and not outrageous for someone with strong fingers and a good head.

Even though this is a historic aid climb, I would encourage aid climbers to seek out other lines in the Canyon, or at least do the direct variant between Fantasy Island and Happy Trails. There are many fragile edges, especially on pitches six ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Eroica (5.12b PG13)
By: j wharton When: Sep 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This gets my vote as the best 5.12 on the Diamond. The last two pitches are a bit dirty, but the meat of the route is amazing. Watch out for the 11+ stem pitch. It might feel harder than the 12b pitch if you haven't been standing on your feet lately.

Andrew Rothner and I linked Endless Summer into Eroica in about 12 hours on 9/9/15. Worth noting for no other reason than this was Andrew's first trip up the Diamond. Not too shabby!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Endless Summer (5.12- R)
By: j wharton When: Sep 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route is very good. I was shocked by the quality of the rock and climbing. The two 5.11 pitches above the grassy ledge are especially good. The final 5.12- pitch is a bit convoluted but also high quality. Although we had mostly dry conditions, which I'm sure help, I think the route isn't particularly dangerous.

Andrew Rothner and I linked Endless Summer into Eroica in about 12 hours on 9/9/15. Worth noting for no other reason than this was Andrew's first trip up the Diamond. Not too shabb... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Crack (5.12c PG13)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Best approached by climbing in from the left, via the first two bolts on Ninja Ladder. Quality, difficult climbing, but unfortunately it gets wet from runoff, and therefore grows a lot of lichen. In the unlikely event that the route received a heavy scrubbing and then some consistent traffic, it would be very good. As is, bring a big wire brush and perhaps some goggles.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Salt Block Rock : Ninja Ladder (5.14a)
By: j wharton When: Jun 6, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a very good route. Crap rock for the first ten feet but then quite good and clean. Great resistance climbing, with enjoyable movement. No especially hard sections but nothing very easy either. I'd venture to say that if this route was in Boulder Canyon, it would be one of the most popular 14as in the Front Range. The approach is 3 minutes, all but the final two holds stay dry in pouring rain, and the route gets morning sun and afternoon shade, making it a great, convenient project. Props... more >>


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