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Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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J. Albers
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Point Rank: # 555
Total Points: 1,228

44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has J. Albers been climbing?










Contributions


All 3489 | Routes 44 | Areas 9 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 466 | Posts 1361 | Stars 726 | Ratings 642
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Enchanted Tower : Pogue's Cave Area : Never Never Land (5.12a/b)
By: J. Albers When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: ^^^^ Take away the beta? If you don't want any route beta, then don't troll around on a website where the mantra is "Beyond the Guidebook". If you're so pure, next time just show up to the crag, pick a line, and fire away Scotty.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam...
By: J. Albers When: Mar 11, 2017

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Comments: ^^^^ yes, Molly Gulch is still closed. Just down the road is Goose Creek, which is still open (seasonally). See here:

fs.usda.gov/recarea/psicc/reca...


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Trivial Pursuit (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Mar 6, 2017

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Comments: Hey Melon,

Thanks for adding this to the database, but perhaps a grade IV deserves a bit more of a description than two sentences. Not everyone owns Croft's book and knows that it starts to the right of Gangway on the WPB proper. Also, what did you think of the route? Is the hard climbing pretty run, or just the easier parts? Given the FA crew, its not hard to believe that even the hard bits are heads up protection-wise (I always wondered about this, but never got a chance t... more >>


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Feb 28, 2017

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Comments: Wow! It looks like there is still dust settling. I wonder if the cop just got lucky and saw it (and missed getting hit)?


Location: California : Central Sierra : Calaveras Domes : Deer Bridge Dome : Designer Wall : Rio Negro (5.10b/c)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: IIRC, you can stuff a gold camelot (or something similar) at a small roof right off the ground. But then you have to do actual climbing to get to the first bolt and at the end the gear may or may not keep you off the ground...maybe 20 feet to the first bolt maybe (with moves)? Fun enough route.


Location: Wyoming : Lander Area : Wild Iris : The Erratic : Big Medicine (5.10b)
By: J. Albers When: Feb 1, 2017

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Comments: King Tut wrote: Hey guy, Steve and I put up that route and if you don't like it stay off.

When you gain some experience at Wild Iris you will realize that over bolted and over cleaned routes are becoming greasy and slick. This route is made so that competent leaders can do it, not your grandmother. Consequently, its life as a good slab climb will be many years longer than if it was bolted to your inexperienced taste.

Good lord John (yes, I know who you are... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Roototop (5.8)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Hi John,
Roototop goes all the way to -- well -- the top of the Sheeprock formation. After the initial 4 pitches that you mention, the route continues up Acid Rock by climbing a bolted pitch just to the right of the Divine Ms. M.:

see here:

mountainproject.com/v/unknown-...

You then climb the second pitch of Divine Ms. M (i.e. the black streak runnel). This pitch puts you at a big ledge (kind of a horizontal gully) where you then... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : The Deep (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Really good route, 11b for the left variation and maybe 11c for the right variation? Certainly easier than Leviathan or Mud Shark, but just as fun.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dream On (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: 11b, Tony? Really? Maybe I was eating lead Cheerios for breakfast, but I thought that this was harder the either of the variations to the immediate right or left, both of which I thought were reasonable at 11c/d. I also thought the variations to the right or left were better routes, but to each their own as they say.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Spider's Den : Spiders and Snakes (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't look like much from the ground, but this is quite a nice climb. Bob is right that if you stay out of the corner to the left, then the grade is quite a bit harder (12a or b maybe?), but it is also contrived if you do it that way. 11+ of some kind seems about right using the most logical sequence, and no way would this be 5.10 at the Iris, because this is certainly harder than Tribal War, Cowboy Poetry, or Lonely Are the Brave, which are all classic 11b'@SEMICO... more >>


Location: New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : Repentance (WI5 M4-5) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice! The Knappster on MP!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^ You removed the whole tree?!?!? Seriously? No offense, but that was unwarranted. Please don't remove the tree next time. Trim it a little....meh, maybe, but remove the tree, no.

Edit: very good, Mauricio, glad to hear it wasn't removed.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Angle of Repose (5.11d)
By: J. Albers When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^
How about you ask the community before you unilaterally start removing bolts? How much do you want to bet that the majority of the community wants you to refrain from touching AoR at all? This route has been up for over fifteen years and is by and large considered a classic route, and then all of a sudden you -- who was less than ten years old when it was put up -- has decided that they need to "fix" this terrible wrong. Really? Please leave the route as is.

... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: J. Albers When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments:

CONDITION REPORT:



Folks should be aware that there is a pretty huge wasp (or some such stinging creature) nest in the ground right next to the staging area for the Unwall. If you are facing the wall while standing in the very nice open flat area at the base of the routes (The Unwall #4 and #6, The Unimpressed etc.), then if you simply turn around you will be staring at a fairly large pine tree that is maybe 15-20 feet from the wall (really the first tree IIRC). Anyw... more >>


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: J. Albers When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^
That's Hailstone at the top I believe, so yes, you have identified those correctly. And they are in Jimi's recent book, check it out:

jimthornburg.com/bay-area-rock...


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: (laughing)
I don't even know the guy who was 'bombing' your climbs, so you're barking up the wrong tree there. And if you want to be all snotty about it, the only climb of yours that I bombed (the "12a" with the big cobble) was a climb I casually onsighted, so no, I wasn't scared....just dirty from all the mud. Have a good day!


Location: California : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: ....says the guy who bolts mud.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice work, Mark.


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3
By: J. Albers When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Hey Buster,
Thanks for the note about the rockfall. Any idea which aspects of the formation (route areas) the rockfall occurred on?
Cheers.


Location: California : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area
By: J. Albers When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ Stephane,

here is the guidebook for the area:

maximuspress.com/shop/proddeta...


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : G3 (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route. The moves through the roof don't look 10+ from below, but it's all there on great features. Regarding the loose flake that Bernard mentioned, I gave it a tap when I arrived under the roof and decided that I didn't want to pull on it. Luckily you can simply undercling out right a bit (super positive undercling) and then make a big but super fun move up to the jugs over the roof. This is a totally reasonable solution that negates the need for the loose flake. Done this way the ro... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ said the peanut gallery who have most likely never sent nor FA'ed anything like what the gent in the pic is setting up. Pipe down unless you have been on the route and can comment on it from a first hand perspective.


Location: California : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : High Eagle : Main Wall : Illuminati (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Such amazing stone....so good.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure aka W... (5.13a) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that is interesting news because the last time I got on this I remember thinking to myself that this sequence felt harder than it had before. I thought it was just my pathetic weakness, but I guess not that was not the only factor (grin). Bummer. As tbol says though, I certainly still goes because I was able to do it....did feel sharp though.


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