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Rock Climbing Photo: Bucky


Member Since: Jul 11, 2008
Last Visit: 8 hours ago
Contact J. Albers

J. Albers
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Point Rank: # 309
Total Points: 2,235
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3420 | Routes 44 | Areas 9 | Photos 240 | Page Improvements | Comments 460 | Posts 1317 | Stars 717 | Ratings 633
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Roototop (5.8)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 25, 2016

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Comments: Hi John,
Roototop goes all the way to -- well -- the top of the Sheeprock formation. After the initial 4 pitches that you mention, the route continues up Acid Rock by climbing a bolted pitch just to the right of the Divine Ms. M.:

see here:

mountainproject.com/v/unknown-...

You then climb the second pitch of Divine Ms. M (i.e. the black streak runnel). This pitch puts you at a big ledge (kind of a horizontal gully) where you then... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : The Deep (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Really good route, 11b for the left variation and maybe 11c for the right variation? Certainly easier than Leviathan or Mud Shark, but just as fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Dream On (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: 11b, Tony? Really? Maybe I was eating lead Cheerios for breakfast, but I thought that this was harder the either of the variations to the immediate right or left, both of which I thought were reasonable at 11c/d. I also thought the variations to the right or left were better routes, but to each their own as they say.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : The Spider's Den : Spiders and Snakes (5.11c/d)
By: J. Albers When: Aug 29, 2016

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Comments: Doesn't look like much from the ground, but this is quite a nice climb. Bob is right that if you stay out of the corner to the left, then the grade is quite a bit harder (12a or b maybe?), but it is also contrived if you do it that way. 11+ of some kind seems about right using the most logical sequence, and no way would this be 5.10 at the Iris, because this is certainly harder than Tribal War, Cowboy Poetry, or Lonely Are the Brave, which are all classic 11b'@SEMICO... more >>


Location: NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs : Repentance (WI5 M4-5) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice! The Knappster on MP!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.9-)
By: J. Albers When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^ You removed the whole tree?!?!? Seriously? No offense, but that was unwarranted. Please don't remove the tree next time. Trim it a little....meh, maybe, but remove the tree, no.

Edit: very good, Mauricio, glad to hear it wasn't removed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Angle of Repose (5.11d)
By: J. Albers When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^
How about you ask the community before you unilaterally start removing bolts? How much do you want to bet that the majority of the community wants you to refrain from touching AoR at all? This route has been up for over fifteen years and is by and large considered a classic route, and then all of a sudden you -- who was less than ten years old when it was put up -- has decided that they need to "fix" this terrible wrong. Really? Please leave the route as is.

... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: J. Albers When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments:

CONDITION REPORT:



Folks should be aware that there is a pretty huge wasp (or some such stinging creature) in the ground right next to the staging area for the Unwall. If you are facing the wall while standing in the very nice open flat area at the base of the routes (The Unwall #4 and #6, The Unimpressed etc.), then if you simply turn around you will be staring at a fairly large pine tree that is maybe 15-20 feet from the wall (really the first tree IIRC). Anyway, r... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena
By: J. Albers When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^
That's Hailstone at the top I believe, so yes, you have identified those correctly. And they are in Jimi's recent book, check it out:

jimthornburg.com/bay-area-rock...


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: (laughing)
I don't even know the guy who was 'bombing' your climbs, so you're barking up the wrong tree there. And if you want to be all snotty about it, the only climb of yours that I bombed (the "12a" with the big cobble) was a climb I casually onsighted, so no, I wasn't scared....just dirty from all the mud. Have a good day!


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Wine Country : Mount St. Helena : Table Scraps Pinnacle : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 31, 2016

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Comments: ....says the guy who bolts mud.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Mar 25, 2016

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Comments: Nice work, Mark.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3
By: J. Albers When: Mar 15, 2016

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Comments: Hey Buster,
Thanks for the note about the rockfall. Any idea which aspects of the formation (route areas) the rockfall occurred on?
Cheers.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area
By: J. Albers When: Dec 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^ Stephane,

here is the guidebook for the area:

maximuspress.com/shop/proddeta...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : G3 (5.11a)
By: J. Albers When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route. The moves through the roof don't look 10+ from below, but it's all there on great features. Regarding the loose flake that Bernard mentioned, I gave it a tap when I arrived under the roof and decided that I didn't want to pull on it. Luckily you can simply undercling out right a bit (super positive undercling) and then make a big but super fun move up to the jugs over the roof. This is a totally reasonable solution that negates the need for the loose flake. Done this way the ro... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Berlin Wall : ... : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 27, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ said the peanut gallery who have most likely never sent nor FA'ed anything like what the gent in the pic is setting up. Pipe down unless you have been on the route and can comment on it from a first hand perspective.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : High Eagle : Main Wall : Illuminati (5.12b)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Such amazing stone....so good.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Wipeyur Buttress : Snapping Station (5.12a)
By: J. Albers When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: ^^^ Having the anchor higher anchor adds, well, fun, 5.10, slab climbing on good rock. There are definitely some routes at DH that would be better with lower anchors (some stuff on Crimpfest comes to mind), but this is not one of those routes. Personally, I am glad the anchor is higher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Challenges of Leisure (5.13a) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: Huh, that is interesting news because the last time I got on this I remember thinking to myself that this sequence felt harder than it had before. I thought it was just my pathetic weakness, but I guess not that was not the only factor (grin). Bummer. As tbol says though, I certainly still goes because I was able to do it....did feel sharp though.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Wheeler Crest : Mayfield Canyon Towers : ... : Chicken Delight (5.6 R)
By: J. Albers When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Wow, beautiful rock. Interesting that this rock is on the Eastside because it looks like the crazy featured stuff that occurs in the Southern Sierra (Shuteye, King's Canyon, etc.) Cool to know that this exists.


Location: WY : Lander Area : Wild Iris : Aspen Glade : The Aspen Glade : All He's Ever Gonna Have (5.10a)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: One of the best at its grade at the Iris. Thanks a ton for the new routes Lightner clan.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10+) : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 25, 2015

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Comments: I remember this rap setup. While I appreciate the effort and money that went into the anchor updates, I think this setup is a bad choice. The integrity of the whole setup boils down to some hardware store screwed pin link. Why in the world you would do this when simply adding a couple quick links and leaving the anchors chains hanging separately would allow you to thread each anchor point independently, thus having a redundant anchor that doesn't rely on the hardware store pin.

And on top of ... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Black Wave Wall : A Woman Scorned (5.11c)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 17, 2015

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Comments: I would agree with Slim on this one. Really great route but probably more like 11a.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Velcro Wall : Bolted Route (5.7)
By: J. Albers When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: @ Daniel ^^^

I certainly understand your sentiment regarding the lack of holds and feeling of desperation (some of my scariest moments in climbing have been run out on pure friction). Still, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the combination of low angle climbing and abundant friction on this section of wall negates the need for any holds at all if you have your friction game dialed. When I did this pitch last fall (2014), I thought the route was about 5.6. I don't say that to be a sandbag... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Comment : Photo
By: J. Albers When: Sep 1, 2015

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Comments: It was the USFS, Tony. They closed the area for a bunch of weeks so they could clear it (...and it was really closed, because there was a fine if you were caught violating). Having walked through it myself, I can say that they did a serious amount of work, because there were a sh*t ton of huge trees that needed to be cut and cleared.


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