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Rock Climbing Photo: girl40


Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Healyje

Point Rank: # 3,163
Total Points: 225
Last Year: 73
Last 30 Days: 10
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Healyje been climbing?










Contributions


All 1141 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 1068 | Stars 3 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff
By: Healyje When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: It should be noted that almost none of these routes were originally ever led, nor did we ever have any intention or desire to lead them as we had plenty of other rock elsewhere for that purpose. A couple of easy ones were led, but the rest that saw leads were more one-time 'exhibition' leads and could just have easily been free solos at the time. In fact, the cliff originally saw way more free solos than gear leads. The challenge of leading these routes ca... more >>


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Give it a whirl, we were trying to do the wall around the corner and top out under the diving board. It was also the path of least resistance once you're up there, but again, give it a go and report back. Would love to read a trip report.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Healyje When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: This was my first rope solo back in 1975, and after decades away, my wife and I made a quick overnight trip in and out of town last year so I could do a fortieth anniversary rope solo of it.

Unfortunately, however, we were so tired we ended up oversleeping in the hotel that morning and found the usual conga line on the route and in line when we got there. I was pretty bummed, because I only had a few hours available for the climb and it clearly wasn't going to be happening f... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : Photo
By: Healyje When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Too much pegmatite to fathom....


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Oracle (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Absolutely the best line at the crag. Also in pursuit of the FA, I did the roof with smaller pro immediately below the roof rather than the C6 in it. But at Arent's suggestion I did later buy one and used it for three later leads to evaluate the bolt idea and the C6 was no problem at all to place at my 5'11" height (nor was placing the solid pro in the corner crack next to the second bolt). Regardless, I was in total agreement with ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Always been a 'high value' route. It was particularly interesting before the bolts and cams. There were thousands of ascents without the bolts - hard to believe they've been allowed to stay.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Day of Atonement (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: A #4 ballnut is bomb in the thin crack.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Solid Gold (5.10-)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Similar to Hollow Victory's top, it just needs periodic cleaning. If no one does it then, yeah, it gets dirty every winter and every spring storm.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Naughty and Nice (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: "The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing."

I typically clean the ledge and the dihedral a couple of times early every year, but missed it that year and this due to pneumonia and not being able to deal with the dust. But hey, it's not that big a deal to thoroughly clean both out. I similarly clean the exit moves on Hollow Victory numerous times in the spring. And it's the same deal at Beacon, if everyone would j... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (5) Fir Tree Ledge : Squeeze Play (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: This is actually a great little TR from the Naughty & Nice anchor.

The line goes up and stays on just the corner itself and is quite challenging.


Location:
By: Healyje When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Two, an hb alloy #9 and a red metolius which are kind of buried in the crack below the biner and not really visible.

-------------

"Is it me or your biner is cross loaded?"

It has that appearance, but no. Under tension the rope and screamer loop ride up to the top of the biner and the chockstone sling unweights. The chockstone sling's only purpose is just to keep the rig oriented correctly when unloaded.


Location: Australia : Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: That's a ridiculous number of bolts for what it is...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Strayed onto this by accident with in 1975 with just a few stoppers and a novice partner belaying me, and it's the closest I've ever come to dying while climbing. Managed to get off of it alive, but just barely. Interesting and not surprising to see it didn't get done until 13 years later - definitely burly with some sketch pro.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Hollow Victory (5.10+ R)
By: Healyje When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Just a note to say the bolt was added immediately after the FA rather than 'recently' (replacing a double #2 ballnut placement).

## That bolt, however, in no way changes the seriousness or R rating of the route. ##


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: As I said, we kind of blitzed in and out just doing Tarzan and then putting up The Wizard. Something about the army guys trying to kill themselves and throwing stun grenades around kind of put us off to the place after a couple of altercations with them. I've posted a picture of Marco on it occasionally on ST and mentioned it to Ed Webster, but otherwise it was all pretty stealth from a historical perspective.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. No, the doubles just seemed prudent in keeping pressure off a sort of circularly equalized nest of micro stoppers (prior to the cam) which had a screamer on it as well. We also sliced the screamer bartacks at a steep angle with a razor blade in a bid to soften the loading curve on the nest. The screamer on the cam was what took care of the rigid cam stem and is probably unnecessary today as the horizontal slot itself is basically truck.


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 19, 2015

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Comments: Sorry, fixed....


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Jill's (5.11a/b R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Isn't that Poison Ivy? (Need to get back there soon)

I believe Jills was a right leaning/trending affair.

Crikey I'm get senile.

Won't matter if I can still send it I suppose...


Location: MA : Leominster Area : Crow Hill : 3. Fisherman's Wall : Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Well, not that I know of, but no telling what's gone down since we put it up....


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Full Moon Foot Dance (V1 X)
By: Healyje When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: You do not under any circumstance want to blow the last move off the climb. The crux[s] were the first and last moves.


Location: IL : Giant City State Park : A. Shelter 1 Bluff : Makanda Layback (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: a) Hump? It's 'Camel's Back', not 'Camel's Hump' - weird that would somehow change.

b) 'The Gully's finish is what you have marked as the 'Devil's Backbone' finish, the marked finish was a slightly spicier solo variation. It had two starts, the traditional one marked until the ground washed out, and the more commonly used marked start to Camel's Back and traverse left into The Gully. Also, The Gully typically went left in the 'gully' up to the seventh dash you have marked for 'Devil's Backbone'... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Lost Warriors (5.11+ R) : Photo
By: Healyje When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Commenting when you haven't climbed pretty much makes you the only joke.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (6) Main Cliff : Wushu Roof (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: Ideally you want side-by-side Metolius #9 and #10 cams (or med. and large Super Cams) straight upwards into the dark slot at the roof crux. Both need the outside cam lobes to the left with the #9 to the inside and the #10 outboard next to it. The comparable BD cams would actually be the old 3.5/4.5 pairing, in the new ones I'm guessing two #4s. You have to pay attention to those placements, make sure they're all the way to the top of the slot.

Also, the route is ba... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Farside (aka Dropzone) : (5) Fir Tree Ledge : Tunnel Vision (5.11b)
By: Healyje When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I consider the crux throw to be the single most strenuous move out there.

[Edit: I agree with Kev's comment above...]


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : South Face : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Healyje When: Aug 30, 2013

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Comments: It is again a good bit of climbing and the same issues were raised on the East Face of the Monkey with Watts pre-placement of gear vs. Trotter doing a real FFA. FFA does stand for 'First Free Ascent', but was never meant outside of the context of placing gear on lead and that's my only question in this instance. And so long as this isn't some kind of prelude to retro-bolting the route or the South Face columns in general I certainly have no problem with it at all.


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