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Member Since: Jan 31, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,670
Total Points: 290

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1756 | Routes 3 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos 52 | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 1651 | Stars 5 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Beacon Rock > South Face > Link-up: Free for All/Dod'... (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Oct 16, 2017

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Comments: I generally do FFA up to the tree on a 60m. It really eats nuts so I use two sets of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets along with a #11 WC Rock and #2, 5, 6 & 7 metolius cams. For Dods above the tree I add a second #6 and a #8 metolius cam and use a bunch of it all on Dastardly which is usually tiring by the time I get up there. Still, you're not going to go wrong bringing doubles as Nathan says.

"Bryans: Joe, i love you, but your advice is pretty specific to nuts like you who have this wired a... more >>


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Beacon Rock > South Face > Free For All, Direct (5.10a)
By: Healyje When: Sep 20, 2017

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Comments: I do that with:

Two sets of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets (#7-11)
One WC #10 (Silver) Rock
Metolius MasterCams 1-#1, 1-#2, 1-#5, 2-#6, 2-#7, 1-#8 (just 1-#6 and nothing larger if not doing Dods / Dastardly)

From the ground to the perch anchor I use all HB/DMM offsets except for a #5 and a #7 MasterCam.

You can make it to the tree on a 60m.

I do the offwidth up to the tree with just a DMM #11 Offset and the WC #10 Rock at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up the offwidth respectively, both in perfect place... more >>


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > The Eternal Buffalo (5.12-)
By: Healyje When: Aug 22, 2017

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Comments: This was a long-envisioned, but intermittent, effort started in 2008 by myself and Shane Polizzano and then dabbled on in the intervening years until Benjamin stuck it this year.

Anchor is just to the left (west) of the Oracle / Wushu anchor.


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Black Velvet Canyon > Black Velvet Wall > ... > Photo
By: Healyje When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: There's those two wild and crazy guys again...


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Hollow Victory (5.10+ R)
By: Healyje When: Jun 29, 2017

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Comments: Ok, so maybe some commentary on this line is in order. First, it is a dead serious lead, no doubt about it. I took a fall on it at the top crux on my first attempt at the FA, I got it the second try a bit later after the rattle wore off.

The top crux is highly technical and those moves, while common to climbing steep Southern sandstone walls and roofs where my early climbing happened, aren't as commonly encountered / used out West here. So, while intuitive for folks from that region, they m... more >>


Location: Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > Oak Creek Canyon > Solar Slab - Upper Tier > ... > Photo
By: Healyje When: Jun 7, 2017

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Comments: Two of my favorite people...


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Day of Atonement (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: I would more describe the cruxes on both Atonement and Hollow Victory more as technical with limited solution sequences - both cruxes are quite elegant in terms of movement, unless you deviate from those specific technical sequences, in which case they would become both harder and somewhat awkward.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Lion of Judah (aka Sugar an... (5.10a)
By: Healyje When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Hmmm. Gotta say the route protects well for the entire pitch if you are a competent trad leader at the grade...


Location: The People of Mountain Proj... > fossana > international stuff > Photo
By: Healyje When: Jan 29, 2017

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Comments: Nice shots both this group and the other one. Thanks.


Location: Photo
By: Healyje When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: No, if I'm using pro then I'm using a minimum of two bomb pieces. There are actually three associated with the picture plus the rock holding them upright. Again, the backup knot thing is personal and I'm personally way, way safer than I would be if I were dicking around with them and breaking up my rhythm and flow. I also have the rope from the pack through a slitted/velcroed piece of 1" webbing on my shoulder strap which would trigger the Eddy if I fell and the rope started to ... more >>


Location: Illinois > Giant City State Park > A. Shelter 1 Bluff
By: Healyje When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: It should be noted that almost none of these routes were originally ever led, nor did we ever have any intention or desire to lead them as we had plenty of other rock elsewhere for that purpose. A couple of easy ones were led, but the rest that saw leads were more one-time 'exhibition' leads and could just have easily been free solos at the time. In fact, the cliff originally saw way more free solos than gear leads. The challenge of leading these routes came way after the fact by decades... more >>


Location: Massachusetts > Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 3. Fisherman's Wall > The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: Give it a whirl, we were trying to do the wall around the corner and top out under the diving board. It was also the path of least resistance once you're up there, but again, give it a go and report back. Would love to read a trip report.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > The Bastille Crack (5.7)
By: Healyje When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: This was my first rope solo back in 1975, and after decades away, my wife and I made a quick overnight trip in and out of town last year so I could do a fortieth anniversary rope solo of it.

Unfortunately, however, we were so tired we ended up oversleeping in the hotel that morning and found the usual conga line on the route and in line when we got there. I was pretty bummed, because I only had a few hours available for the climb and it clearly wasn't going to be happening from the end of t... more >>


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > The Painted Wall > Photo
By: Healyje When: Aug 3, 2016

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Comments: Too much pegmatite to fathom....


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Oracle (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Jun 28, 2016

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Comments: Absolutely the best line at the crag. Also in pursuit of the FA, I did the roof with smaller pro immediately below the roof rather than the C6 in it. But at Arent's suggestion I did later buy one and used it for three later leads to evaluate the bolt idea and the C6 was no problem at all to place at my 5'11" height (nor was placing the solid pro in the corner crack next to the second bolt). Regardless, I was in total agreement with bolting the first roof due to foot entangl... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two > Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Healyje When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Always been a 'high value' route. It was particularly interesting before the bolts and cams. There were thousands of ascents without the bolts - hard to believe they've been allowed to stay.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Day of Atonement (5.10b)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: A #4 ballnut is bomb in the thin crack.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Solid Gold (5.10-)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: Similar to Hollow Victory's top, it just needs periodic cleaning. If no one does it then, yeah, it gets dirty every winter and every spring storm.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Naughty and Nice (5.10d)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: "The dihedral above the ledge was terribly dirty. We cleaned what we could, but more traffic is needed on this thing."

I typically clean the ledge and the dihedral a couple of times early every year, but missed it that year and this due to pneumonia and not being able to deal with the dust. But hey, it's not that big a deal to thoroughly clean both out. I similarly clean the exit moves on Hollow Victory numerous times in the spring. And it's the same deal at Beacon, if everyone would j... more >>


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (5) Fir Tree Ledge > Squeeze Play (5.10c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: This is actually a great little TR from the Naughty & Nice anchor.

The line goes up and stays on just the corner itself and is quite challenging.


Location: Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 22, 2016

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Comments: Two, an hb alloy #9 and a red metolius which are kind of buried in the crack below the biner and not really visible.

-------------

"Is it me or your biner is cross loaded?"

It has that appearance, but no. Under tension the rope and screamer loop ride up to the top of the biner and the chockstone sling unweights. The chockstone sling's only purpose is just to keep the rig oriented correctly when unloaded.


Location: Australia > Photo
By: Healyje When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: That's a ridiculous number of bolts for what it is...


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > The Bastille > The Bastille - N Face > Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Healyje When: Apr 1, 2016

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Comments: Strayed onto this by accident with in 1975 with just a few stoppers and a novice partner belaying me, and it's the closest I've ever come to dying while climbing. Managed to get off of it alive, but just barely. Interesting and not surprising to see it didn't get done until 13 years later - definitely burly with some sketch pro.


Location: Washington > Southwest Cascades > Farside > (6) Main Cliff > Hollow Victory (5.10+ R)
By: Healyje When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: Just a note to say the bolt was added immediately after the FA rather than 'recently' (replacing a double #2 ballnut placement).

## That bolt, however, in no way changes the seriousness or R rating of the route. ##


Location: Massachusetts > Leominster Area > Crow Hill > 3. Fisherman's Wall > The Wizard (5.11+ PG13)
By: Healyje When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: As I said, we kind of blitzed in and out just doing Tarzan and then putting up The Wizard. Something about the army guys trying to kill themselves and throwing stun grenades around kind of put us off to the place after a couple of altercations with them. I've posted a picture of Marco on it occasionally on ST and mentioned it to Ed Webster, but otherwise it was all pretty stealth from a historical perspective.


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