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Member Since: Oct 14, 2007
Last Visit: Jan 8, 2018
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Point Rank: # 338
Total Points: 2,114

130 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Hans been climbing?










Contributions


All 643 | Routes 43 | Areas 32 | Approach Trails | Photos 239 | Page Improvements 3 | Comments 62 | Posts 65 | Stars 178 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Washington > Northwest Region > North Cascades > Washington Pass > Silver Star and connected s... > ... > East Face / Rebel Yell (5.10)
By: Hans When: Aug 11, 2017

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Comments: Some beta:

On August 9, 2017 it was very easy to reach the start of the route from Burgundy Col without crampons or ice axe. Cold weather might change this.

There was running water at the base of the route.

Watch for rope eating flakes on the rappels.

The gear beta above is spot on.

The pitch breakdown above can be improved. In my opinion P1 above should be split into two pitches, and P3, P4, and P5 above should be two pitches and not three.
Some better beta:
P1 - 5.9 55m - Take th... more >>


Location: Washington > Central-East Cascades, Wena... > Stuart-Enchantments > Mt Stuart > The Direct North Ridge w/ G... (5.9+)
By: Hans When: Jun 28, 2017

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Comments:



Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw) > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Jun 19, 2017

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Comments: This is the second half of pitch 2 as per the route description, or the beginning of pitch 3 if pitch 2 is split into two parts. I think it goes at about 5.10c ish.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha
By: Hans When: May 21, 2017

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Comments: As a former Okanaganite, I realize that Penticton as a town doesn't have a lot to offer the traveling climber. Golf courses? Check. Strip malls? Oh, yeah. But cheap restaurants with good food? That's hard to find.

Having said that I highly recommend Tequila Vallarta on the main street into town from the crags. Great food and reasonably priced. Yum. It's not Mags 99, but it's close.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Climbers in blue are on the route McTech Direct.

Climber in green is at the belay at the end of pitch 1 of McTech Arete.

Climber in orange is rappelling the wall. Not recommended due to dangerous rappeller induced rockfall.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Kootenays West > Valhalla Mountains > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Great photo. Such a cool place.


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Telendos Island > South Face > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: Original found at climbkalymnos.com/wp-content/u...


Location: Europe > Greece > Kalymnos > Telendos Island > South Face > ... > Wild Country (5.10b)
By: Hans When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: It's easy in my opinion to go wrong for the 5th pitch. At the ledge at the end of pitch 4, Wild Country goes left while Eterna goes straight up.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Skaha > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 17, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: SH: Stouthearted, 5.10a sport, 35m, Plum Wall
PL: Plum Line, 5.9 sport, 35m, Plum Wall

DA: Dad's Army Strikes, 5.10a mixed, 30m, Ramparts
SR: Storming the Ramparts, 5.10b mixed, 30m, Ramparts

TD: The Dream, 5.9 trad, 15m, The Turret

ETB: Et Tu Brutus, 5.9 trad, 50m, The Grooves
MS: Minor Skirmish, 5.10c sport, 20m, The Grooves


Location: California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/... > Sad Boulders > ... > The Fang (V4)
By: Hans When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: I humped the fang.

:-(


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > ... > Weathermen (5.9)
By: Hans When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: If I'm correct, as of August 2015 this was the third bolt line from the left.

This and all other climbs at the crag were incredibly clean. Props to the scrubbers. Having said that some bolts on some routes are installed sideways. Also, the routes on the left side of the crag all have ledge fall potential, sometimes in more than one place.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Squamish Days Traverse (V2)
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: In order to get the V2 grade you need to stay high and avoid the good holds a bit lower. Otherwise it's more like a V0 or V0-.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > ... > Squamish Days (V0)
By: Hans When: Jul 5, 2015

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Comments: Skipping the arete is a fun eliminate that bumps the grade up a bit, at least if you're short.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Slhanay (The Squaw) > The Great Game (5.10c/d)
By: Hans When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: There are bolted anchors every 35m or so as John says, but they aren't set up for rappels. We left some tat on the last two and made it down, but keep this in mind. Walking off would be a lot faster.

Great climb BTW. First pitch is definitely harder than the rest, which have only short cruxes.


Location: North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Malamute > ... > Photo
By: Hans When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: I may be wrong but I don't think this is Grub Street. I think this is too far to climber's right, and leads to the easy bolted slab routes on the right side of the upper Malamute


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