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Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Guy H.
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Point Rank: # 52
Total Points: 6,761

401 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Guy H. been climbing?










Contributions


All 4855 | Routes 402 | Areas 44 | Photos 514 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 398 | Posts 210 | Stars 2955 | Ratings 330
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Picnic Rock : Adults Only Picnic (5.9+)
By: Guy H. When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: There is lots of gear on this pitch, but I doubt you would want to whip on any of it.

Gear: tiny-#2 C4.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Picnic Rock : Uninvited Guest (5.9-)
By: Guy H. When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: This one is probably R rated due to the detached block. If you F-up going around the block, you might ground out. The climbing is pretty straightforward in this section, though.

Gear: nuts, 0.2-3 C4.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Picnic Rock : Chips and Beer (5.9+)
By: Guy H. When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: A brief crux leads to some cool moves in a dihedral. The upper part of the route is still a little dirty.

Gear: 0.3-#2 C4


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Picnic Rock : Picnic Blank It (5.10a/b)
By: Guy H. When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: Low crux with interesting moves on good rock....

Gear: gray/yellow Alien, 0.4/0.5 C4.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Picnic Rock : Less Lichen, More Lovin' (5.10-)
By: Guy H. When: May 6, 2017

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Comments: This climb is footwork intensive with lots of sidepulls and underclings. Make sure your gear between bolts 3 and 4 is solid, since you will be near the ground if it blows.

Gear: small nut, purple C3, gray/yellow Alien, 0.5 C4.


Location: Wyoming : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 8, 2016

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Comments: You can rap to the anchors at the start of Hollywood and Vine and then to the ground with a 70M rope.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Chamber : Rusty Shackleford (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: This one might be a little harder, since the good crimp at the crux has broken.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Childhood's End (5.12- R)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 3, 2016

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Comments: If you plan on aiding the crux pitch, bring a purple C3. The 5.7 pitch with no bolts is a lead you won't forget anytime soon. I don't think my partner was impressed when I yelled "falling" after clipping the anchors.


Location: Wyoming : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Walt Bailey (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 30, 2016

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Comments: Right now, the best method to belay is off a #4 cam backed up with the bolts at your knees.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : The O-Face (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: Jun 18, 2016

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Comments: Great route with lots of variety.... The hanger for the 6th bolt was on the ground when we did it. We placed it back on, but it is only hand tightened. If you have a wrench, it might be a good idea to give it a crank.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Crystal Wall : North Face : Better than Watching TV (pr... (5.11d)
By: Guy H. When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: The bolts have been replaced on the first pitch, and a direct start appears to be added.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Puking Yuppies (5.11a PG13)
By: Guy H. When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: I think Bob's book has the ratings reversed. The left line is 5.11c, and the middle line which requires gear is 5.11a. It probably feels harder, since the bolts are very old and getting gear in the upper crack is from a pumpy stance.

NOTE: the pictures above show the bolts on the left line being clipped and not the middle line.


Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Bachar Up Against The Wall... (5.11b)
By: Guy H. When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Crappy bolt positions, especially the last one.... The cruxes come when you try and clip them!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Slippery Buttress : The Undertone (5.10d)
By: Guy H. When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: You should bring some "large" RPs or a good selection of small nuts for P1.

It looked like you could get down with one 70M rope if you swing to the right and down climb a small pillar.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Back in Slacks (5.11c)
By: Guy H. When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: You can place a 0.4 C4 in the pin hole above the lip if you like.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : First Pullout : Tuna and Chips Wall : Chips Ahoy (5.9)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 28, 2015

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Comments: The first pitch probably R/X rated since none of the gear before the bolt at 50ft will probably hold a fall. I placed two tiny RPs, a 0.1 X4, and slung a small flake.


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Narrows : Eden Area : ... : Garden Of Eden (5.11a)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: You can lower off with an 80m, if you clean the gear.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Pine Nuts (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Has anyone tried to rap P2 with a 80M rope?


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b)
By: Guy H. When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Yep... A 80M works...


Location: Colorado : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : The Scepter : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: This is Hantavirus (5.10d) around the corner on the right. Fun climb with cool finish....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.7)
By: Guy H. When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: A set of nuts and cams to 0.75 is more than enough gear....


Location: South Dakota : Spearfish Canyon : Big Picture Gully : Fat Grandma : Everything's Big In Texas (5.10a)
By: Guy H. When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: Watch out for the wasp in the "X"ed pocket.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Guy H. When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: When these bolts finally get replaced, I remember the first bolt on P6 being difficult to clip. Maybe I went the wrong way or was just scared silly, but I remember the easier climbing being right of the bolt. As with many of the pitches, a fall before the first bolt would be a bad ledge fall. Moving the bolt to the right 6 inches would help.

We should also contact Rossiter to see if he has any input.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 15, 2015

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Comments: This is Outerspace.... I just looks different from this angle.


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Guy H. When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: Yep... you need two ropes. 60m ropes are nice, I haven't tried it with anything shorter.


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