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Member Since: Jan 3, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Gunkswest
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Point Rank: # 56
Total Points: 6,695

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 1347 | Routes 441 | Areas 65 | Photos 258 | Page Improvements 20 | Comments 60 | Posts 20 | Stars 463 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: North America : Virgin Islands : St. John : Ram Head
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 19, 2017

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Comments: Visited Ram Head yesterday. Once you reach the end of the trail and are at Ram Head, the routes and bolt described above are about 150 feet down and to the west (right).

To rig a top rope, you need a 50 foot climbing rope, a 20 or 30 foot cordelette and a couple cams equivilant to red and gold Camalots. In addition to the cams and bolt, you can wrap some boulders as part of the anchor. Alternatively, you could bring a 30 meter rope (or longer) and skip the cordelette by using one end of the rop... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Hitman Rock
By: Gunkswest When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Sometime in late December 2016 or early January 2017, there was significant rockfall at Hitman Rock just to the right of Acuity.
Rock Climbing Photo: The gap where some of the blocks fell from. Note t...
The gap where some of the blocks fell from. Note the horizontal scrape across the wall at the height of the ceiling, where the blocks slid out.


Rock Climbing Photo: Compare the center right portion of the picture (t...
Compare the center right portion of the picture (to the right of Acuity) with the Hitman Rock and Acuity photos already posted on Mt Project!


Rock Climbing Photo: The new rubble below the cliff. The van-sized bloc...
The new rubble below the cliff. The van-sized block from the upper portion of the cliff is the furthest one down-slope with the white end.


Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the new rubble below Acuity.
Another view of the new rubble below Acuity.

Rock Climbing Photo: Rock fall with arrows and things...
Rock fall with arrows and things...



Location: South America : Colombia : La Mojarra - Cañon del Chi...
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: As of 12-2016:

We just spent eight days at Refugio la Roca. The owners, Richardo and Alexandra, are wonderful! The amount of thought and work they have put into the refugio and climbing area is just amazing.

We flew to Bucaramanga from Bogota, caught a taxi from the airport to the bus station in Piedecuesta (39,000COP) and then the bus up to Mesa Los Santos (10,000COP each). We were dropped off right at the entrance to the refugio. It's a very simple process.

Leaving, we c... more >>


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca : LP
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: LP is a must-do route that is reminiscent of climbing at the Gunks in New York. The route wanders through intimidating terrain at a surprisingly moderate grade.

The crux corner is as difficult as Double Cross at Joshua Tree (what many folks call 5.8).

The climb is located at the far left (away from town) end of the Suesca cliff. Walk along the tracks for about 25 minutes, looking for a clean, steep slab and arête right on the edge of the railroad tracks. This steep, clean and arête has a c... more >>


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca : Zona De Suerte : Natalio Ruiz (5.9+)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This route is located about 50 feet to the left of the Madonna. The upper section shown in the attached picture (the left leaning crack) is clearly visible from the RR tracks.


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca : La Abeja : La abeja (5.10c)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: Depending how you do this, some locals will call it 5.7. It's 5.7 in the same way LP is 5.7 and the Black Book is 5.6. Climbing one of the two cracks directly through the ceiling is harder (5.10-ish) than traversing right underneath the ceiling (the "5.7" and probably original line).

No matter how you slice it, the climb is really polished and the dusty nature of the alcove only adds to the excitement.

To make the climb "5.7,&quo... more >>


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca : Zona de Alcatraz : Dirty Girl (5.8)
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 25, 2016

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Comments: Compared to other Suesca routes like LP (rated 5.7) and the Black Book ([Libre Negra] rated 5.6), this route is 5.6. If this is 5.8, those routes are 5.10.

As of 12/2016, there are no bolts on this route (other than at the anchor), so it should not be labeled as a sport route. It protects well with trad gear.

You can start at the level of the railroad tracks and climb a rounded, dirty face about 25 feet up to the ledge (exciting 5.5, but not really recommended) or start off the ledge about 15 ... more >>


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca : Zona de Alcatraz
By: Gunkswest When: Dec 25, 2016

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Comments: To reach the Zona de Alcatraz:

From town, gain the railroad tracks and follow them past the Madonna (on the right side of the tracks) and the base camp facility (several hundred yards further on the left side of the tracks).

About 100 yards after the base camp facility (on the left), you'll come to a section of the railroad tracks with trees on both sides of the tracks. In another 50-75 yards you'll reach the Zona de Alcatraz.

On the right side of the... more >>


Location: South America : Colombia : Suesca
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: As of 12-2016, the route and area organization here on Mountain Project for Suesca is pretty messed up. As an example, coming down the railroad tracks from town you'll reach:
El Riel
La Abeja
La Virgen
Zona de Alcatraz
LP
Just those sections (and there are lots of others between La Virgen and Zona Alcatraz) are not currently in the correct geographical order here on MP.

Suesca is a fantastic place filled with lots of great traditional (and historic) lines. The Black Book (L... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Roadside Rocks : Glory Dome : Hope and Glory (5.8)
By: Gunkswest When: Nov 16, 2016

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Comments: Named "Old Glory" in Bartlett's "Rock Climbs of Hidden Valley" (1992) page 54.


Location: California : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Keeler Needle : Harding Route (5.10+) : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: A bit more about Ken Cook from Chauncey ("Chuck") Parker (Chauncey IV) this morning:

"Kenny and I climbed together a lot at Tahquitz through the 1970s. Kenny was one of my favorite climbing partners and an important mentor.

Steve Barker of Eagle Creek, ran the mountain shop, The Mountain People, in Idyllwild at the time. He employed both Kenny and me at the shop and with the Idyllwild Mountaineering Institute teaching and guiding."


... more >>


Location: Asia : Southeast Asia : Laos : Vang Vieng : Pha Deang Mountain
By: Gunkswest When: Jun 17, 2016

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Comments: Paul Turecki and Kirsten Kremer were some of the first folks to climb at Pha Deang Mountain. In 1999 and 2000, they established numerous lines at Pha Deang without placing bolts, several of which were later bolted and are now popular sport routes on the Main Wall.

See the 2002 American Alpine Journal for more info:

publications.americanalpineclu...


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Zealand Road / Notch : Sugarloaf : Middle Sugarloaf / Main Fac... : Bullit - with Alternate Sla... (5.9 PG13)
By: Gunkswest When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Named for a long link of expended .223 rounds found at the base during the FA (presumably from a SAW) and the movie (well known at the time for its car chase).


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Mind over Splatter (5.10a PG13)
By: Gunkswest When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: This route pretty much starts in the same spot as Space Walk. Both routes start about 40 feet up and right of Head Over Heals.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : ... : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: The line drawn in this photo replicates what is in the Vogel JT West guide, but this isn't the line most folks actually climb.

Most people jog right and follow the crack up to the fixed anchor.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Head Over Heals (5.10a)
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: There's a very good second pitch to this route.

From the fixed anchor atop the first pitch, step right and climb the steep hand crack up the wall above to another fixed anchor (5.10a).

Rappel from the upper anchor straight down a chimney to the ground (a 50m rope works).

Note that this upper crack/second pitch can be toproped from the upper fixed anchor after doing Farewell to Poodles or any of the other crack climbs to the left of Head Over Heals. You would climb the junky chimney (as for t... more >>


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Mind Over Matter (5.10a/b R)
By: Gunkswest When: May 19, 2016

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Comments: A big chunk of the down-facing flake that you use just after the initial ceiling broke off. The chunk is currently sitting at the base of the route covered in chalk. Not sure if this changes the difficulty, but be forewarned...


Location: New Hampshire : WM: Crawford Notch : Webster Slabs : 1. Lost and Found Slab
By: Gunkswest When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: My bet is if someone went up there with bolts (or boldness), there would be other routes on the slab.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Hemingway Buttress : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa... : Golden Years (5.9+)
By: Gunkswest When: May 3, 2016

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Comments: There used to be a fixed pin or two before the bolt. These are now gone.

The best bits of crack leading up to the bolt (where the pin[s] were) is parallel-sided, and unfortunately, smaller than the smallest BD 3 cam units (grey and purple).

Heaven help you if you came off above the bolt and it failed, as the nuts leading up to the bolt likely wouldn't save you...

At the top of the vertical crack system (shared by this route and Feltonian Physics), many people go up and left, to finish on Poo... more >>


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Climbs here generally face south. In hot weather, you'd only want to visit early in the morning or in the evening. There are some trees for shade, but they don't extend up very high and the cliff is generally concave, making it a bit of a solar oven.

There are at least three sectors:

Leftmost area (to left of large iceberg shaped boulder) has at least a couple bolted climbs.

Red sector (routes currently described in this route section) is to the right of the large iceberg shaped boulder. Cli... more >>


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: This is the view of the crag as approaching up the trail from the theatre parking lot on the south side of the hill.

The red sector of the crag is to the right of the large boulder in the center of the photo, although there are some number of climbs on the leftmost portion of the cliff in this photo.


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: To the left of this photo is the theatre parking area. This trail entrance is at the lower right portion of the parking area.

If you were to take a taxi from the Acropolis Museum or Plaka area, you would likely be coming in from the right of this photo.


Location: Europe : Greece : Athens : Filopappou : Photo
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: This photo is of the red sector and is looking from route "1" toward route "6."

The approach from the theatre parking area would be to the photographer's back.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : AFPA Rock : Bolder Face (5.7)
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: Correct spelling of the route name is "Bolder Face."


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Batline Dome : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Gunkswest When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: A Batline is attached to the Batarang.


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