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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 246
Total Points: 2,617
Last Year: 736
Last 30 Days: 23
23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 2654 | Routes 63 | Areas 5 | Photos 326 | Page Improvements | Comments 293 | Posts 1902 | Stars 65 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: 11 hours ago

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Comments: So lots of folks know that climbing the 2nd pitch of Classic is a great way to go after P1 of Jackie. But it can get even better - climb the arete that's just left of Classic's P2 dihedral. Details and photo:
mountainproject.com/v/11237109...


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Cosmic Ray (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: IMPORTANT - the black Tricam is the 0.25. The white is the .125. Since the black is specified by color here (who uses numbers for the small pieces??), I assume that's correct. I stayed away from this route based on the book specifying the .125.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Aquarius (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Book says the mantle is the crux, but group consensus today was that the first few moves were the hardest part. No problem with the mantle at all. Nice route with great pro - def. want the double 2s and 3s, and a 4 plugged well overhead gave me a warm feeling on the opening.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Sagittarius (5.8+ R)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: I found nothing remotely 5.8 about the unprotected (PG? Really?? You could take a 30 footer from that spot) upper face. More like 10a, and I only found the "nice hueco" (ADK Rock descr.) while trending up and R from the Starline bolt after TR'ing that line.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : c. LA Roof : Sound The Horn (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: 7 years later that stump is still there.


Location: VT : Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana : Main Crag : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Man, that brings back memories.


Location: VT : Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana : Main Crag
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: The trail (such as it is) takes off from the south end of the campground loop that's on the EAST side of the road (main campground, ranger booth, beach etc are on the west side). I used to take my kids climbing on the quartzite cliffs here every summer, and access was simple. Now, however, the area has been designated a National Recreation Area, and there have been some changes. Camping at Falls of Lana is no more, the privy along the fire road to Silver Lake has been remo... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Glee Club Crack (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: The consensus of our little group today is that stemming that awkward early move is the way to go.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Belleview (5.9 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Can't stress enough: the first bolt is ABOVE THE CRUX. This makes sense if you stick clip it. Otherwise this is a bloody dangerous route.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Giucco Piano (5.8 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: I think this is one of the best routes on the slab. It's a much better pitch at 5.8, than, say, Belleview is at 5.9.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Frog's Head (5.6) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: Get that leg out of the rope.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Classic (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 29, 2016

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Comments: A variation on the second pitch - there's a bush/tree low in the corner that's getting big enough to be annoying. To stay in the corner, you'd pass this on the right. But instead, go past it on the left and climb the arete to the top. Superb position, great gear, and a bit more challenging (at one particular spot) than the corner.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Turdland (5.9 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: The bolts have been replaced on this route, so there should be no worries.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: Another observation on FJ's 3rd pitch - the "horn" (Swain's guidebook) that signaled where to pull the overhang on this route has broken off some time ago. I kind of suspected it as I looked up there on previous visits. But I climbed it today and confirmed that that very useful feature is indeed no longer there. A minor point perhaps; the heavy lichen above the move suggests this pitch doesn't... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Faithful Journey (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 20, 2016

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Comments: We noticed today that the bolts have been removed from the GT Ledge at Wise Crack/Bombs Away/Middle Earth. They have also been removed from the top of the route (slings and rings are back on the pine tree). I'm 100% in favor of removing those poorly placed bolts on the GTL. As I posted earlier this year, their location to the left of ME's 2nd pitch effectively routes the rope and climbers across a slew of deadly loose blocks, a few of which have already... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : In the Silly (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Sep 18, 2016

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Comments: There's only one tree up there now - and it's alive - so Imagine the infamous "dying tree" is gone. Also, the pitch is now a good 125' long rather than the 100' given in the guidebook (and here). A 60m rope still suffices for the rap.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake Champlain Region : Deadwater : Main Cliff : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 26, 2016

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Comments: Another vote for doing it "from the base". A long pitch with varied climbing and numerous challenges. Reminiscent of the Gunks' "Last Will be First" (though harder of course).

There was no sling on the tree 20' down from the top (nor should there be IMO) today, but a 70m rope from the hemlock atop the route got us down to the base of Bozeman Bullet. There was enough extra rope that I suspect a... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : J. D. Memorial Route (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Super, super thin past the first two bolts. I TR'ed this and couldn't find any hold that I would be able to make the clips from. Fun though.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Tuesday Layback (5.7)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Felt easier than 7, but I can see how the "mantle" could be tricky.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : New Buck : Autopilot (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Fantastic line. Deserves more stars than Jim/Jeremy gave it. If you're struggling on this you need to work on your jamming.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Tanager Face : Lifelong Affliction (5.8+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Gotta disagree big time with Kevin on this.

CAUTION - beta follows.

I "walked into" the lower part of the crack as he suggests, and it was awkward, off-balance, and super reachy (nb - I have probably 6" less wingspan than him). Ended up moving leftwards to the crack in what could be be called an unexpected dynamic move. Plus, the gear for this, if you can get it, is placed blindly. The real gear is behind you in the corner and the fall backward... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: How many tugs on the rope should the fallen second do to communicate "I've fallen off the move but if you could please lower me about 6 feet I'll give it another shot"?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Life and Debt (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: The crux moves are quite unlike most Shanty routes - more balancey and incremental. Make sure you eyeball the face (e.g. from LGD) and know where the anchor is, or else you might get suckered into trending left up high, over toward the anchor for Hard Times, since that comes into view before the L&D anchor.

Gear - small wires helpful.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Vernal Imperatives (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I find this route every bit as delightful as Little Gem Diner, maybe even more so (more thoughtful than LGD).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Shanty Cliff : Soweto (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: This is probably my favorite route at Shanty. Continuous challenge, outrageous holds, solid gear of all types, great view from the top.

Descent - I don't know if it's feasible to reach down to any of the anchors on the Rocina wall (never tried it). I've walked off the left end of the cliff (bring your approach shoes up with you) as well as walking around climbers' right to get to the Vernal Imperative anchor.


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