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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 344
Total Points: 1,865

27 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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Contributions


All 3179 | Routes 71 | Areas 6 | Photos 389 | Page Improvements | Comments 321 | Posts 2319 | Stars 73 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: 5 days ago

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Comments: If you set the TR so that the powerpoint is no more than a foot or so below the edge, it shouldn't be too hard to downclimb a couple moves so your partner can then lower you. Lacking a partner at the bottom OTOH does make for a difficult rap. Make sure your autoblock is working (!) and consider lowering yourself (rapping, batmanning etc) off a tether of some sort for the first few feet. Extending your rap device in the modern way will certainly make this even more problematic.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Adirondack Rehabilitation (5.10a R)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 18, 2017

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Comments: Be careful of some weak orange rock under the 'hang as you're clipping the 3rd bolt. Minor edges there snapped off (minor = not crucial and don't change the route) on both me and a partner.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Sky High : ... : I Don't Want No Scrub (5.8-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: So we climbed this today and, having not noticed the start until we were back down, considered it a "direct variation" to Never Alone. But super fun.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Sky High : ... : Second Helping (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 16, 2017

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Comments: Passing the 3rd bolt seemed harder than 5.9


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : c. The Clamshell Wall : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: I've seen someone take 20 minutes to make the move off that starting boulder.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : z.. Dickie Barre (upper PK ... : c. The Clamshell Wall : Windy City (5.8-)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 14, 2017

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Comments: The crux is definitely that start. Folks' opinions of this route's difficulty covered a greater range than just about any other PK route as I was gathering info for the guidebook. Everything from 5.6 from the folks who cruised the start to 8+ from folks who got shut down.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: I tossed a #5 BD hex in the crack well over my head before leaving the ground. Good old school fun! A wired #5 would likely have been easier to get in there.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Firecracker (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: I thought this pitch had more enjoyable jamming than Jammer.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: Helpful, except the road out from the lot toward SH Rd doesn't angle as shown but rather off to the lower left on this map.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Goosesteps (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: You can lengthen this pitch if you downclimb about 15-20 ft off the left end of the Jammer ledge to a good stance with a vertical crack (anchor the belayer). The added climbing is knobby and fun; the crux at the bolts above is quite a jarring change.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs : Action Steps (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 10, 2017

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Comments: I clipped the first bolt from the SYG crack (i.e. the normal start) then climbed the 5.9 Variation off the ground. It's a bit reachy and one of our group had to jump to get to the horizontal 10-12' up. From there it's possible to traverse right to that first bolt, but the swing would be pretty serious if you fall before getting there. Of course we all tried a "directissima" start directly to the bolt - no success. Overall a really terrific route with some elegant face c... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : a. Khadejha Area : Anna's Route (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments: Anna's catches the right edge of that long slender overhang partway up.

Old Route pretty much runs up the left edge of this pic before angling left through a bulge on a finger crack (easily seen from the ground but out of this shot).

The flat block you see here stuck in the wide horizontal on Old Route has been pulled out and now lies on the ground. Not sure why anyone would do that - it was not in any position to fall out and hurt anyone - but it doesn't change how the route clim... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jul 5, 2017

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Comments: I'm sure Chad put his rope over the big limb up there and not pinched between the tree and the pillar.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : a. Khadejha Area
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: See the photo and comment under Anna's Route. The photo in the book and the early app for these routes is not correct. Apologies! (the app has been updated to show these properly) Mike


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : a. Khadejha Area : Anna's Route (5.8)
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 15, 2017

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Comments: See the photo I just put up. It corrects erroneous info in both the guidebook (photo pg 39) and GunksApp re. the line for "Old Route" and "Anna's Route". The route "Sensitive Side" is also farther left than where it is shown in these guides.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : RMC (5.5) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: More like "lay down".


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Jun 13, 2017

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Comments: Staying out of the big right-facing flake/corner is DW's Variation 1. It is also much easier that way.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Best Left to Obscurity (5.10a R)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: LEFT-leaning ramp, no?


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (r) Pleasure Palace : Red Scare (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: I thought this was a much better route than Watermark, though a fall going to the 2nd bolt looks like it would generate quite a leftwards swing.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (r) Pleasure Palace : Watermark (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: May 22, 2017

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Comments: Felt much easier than 9 to me. Maybe Gunks-type moves aren't so easy for SR climbers?


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: To be more precise - there are no chains on any bolted anchors anywhere at PK.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Laurel (5.7) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: "The climber's placement in the pic"? Huh? I don't see any gear anywhere. Nor, presumably, does the belayer.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Great shot; love the intensity in her expression. Just when you think you've seen all the possible ways to do that move, along comes a pic like this. :-)


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: 2 of the 3 pins have been removed from this route. Only the first remains. Caveat accordingly.


Location:
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: A ring cutter in the ER won't be needed or useful if he gets that ring caught in a crack and/or falls with it stuck on something. Ring avulsion injuries are pretty gruesome.

PS Kudos for the catch, Helen!


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