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Member Since: Jul 29, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Gunkiemike

Point Rank: # 337
Total Points: 1,855

25 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Gunkiemike been climbing?










Contributions


All 3030 | Routes 71 | Areas 6 | Photos 387 | Page Improvements | Comments 308 | Posts 2185 | Stars 73 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Best Left to Obscurity (5.10a R)
By: Gunkiemike When: 4 days ago

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Comments: LEFT-leaning ramp, no?


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (r) Pleasure Palace : Red Scare (5.10b)
By: Gunkiemike When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I thought this was a much better route than Watermark, though a fall going to the 2nd bolt looks like it would generate quite a leftwards swing.


Location: Oregon : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (r) Pleasure Palace : Watermark (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Felt much easier than 9 to me. Maybe Gunks-type moves aren't so easy for SR climbers?


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : s. The Golden Wall : The Golden Dream (5.9+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: To be more precise - there are no chains on any bolted anchors anywhere at PK.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : a2. The Uberfall - right : Laurel (5.7) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: "The climber's placement in the pic"? Huh? I don't see any gear anywhere. Nor, presumably, does the belayer.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: Great shot; love the intensity in her expression. Just when you think you've seen all the possible ways to do that move, along comes a pic like this. :-)


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Never Never Land (5.10a)
By: Gunkiemike When: Apr 10, 2017

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Comments: 2 of the 3 pins have been removed from this route. Only the first remains. Caveat accordingly.


Location:
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: A ring cutter in the ER won't be needed or useful if he gets that ring caught in a crack and/or falls with it stuck on something. Ring avulsion injuries are pretty gruesome.

PS Kudos for the catch, Helen!


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Glory and Consequence (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: You can get some much-appreciated rests off of kneebars if you look for them. That's pretty rare for a 5.7.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Central Scrutinizer (5.9)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: A red BD C3 (and likely a similar sized TCU) backs up the pin quite nicely.


Location: Kentucky : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : The Arrowhead (5.7 PG13)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 20, 2017

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Comments: +1 for Tricams, as long as you know how to use them. Overall I thought this little climb had more challenging gear than RRG average.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : North Face of Pitchoff : Hanging Spoons (WI5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Mar 1, 2017

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Comments: Hard to imagine this being harder than the Fang at Underwood, and certainly doesn't appear to be in the same league as pitches like Dark Lord. But there's only one way to know...


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : C: Northwest : South Colton Cliff - Ice : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 13, 2017

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Comments: Ah, but Feb 2016 was in the middle of the worst ice season in recent memory. I would wager that this thing can be solid (as in leadable) in a good season. But I'm not about to make the 10+ hr round trip drive to find out!

Wish I knew about this place when I was a student up there. Our spring climbing area was the Herman-DeKalb roadcut. Anybody still go there??


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : D: Keene Valley and Chapel ... : Chapel Pond : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: Robert, this pic was from late season 2009.


Location:
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 7, 2017

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Comments: Moores Bridge, a few years ago.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed : G: The Southern Region : Little Cathead Mt : ... : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Those big chunks on the ground speak to the odd weather we've had so far this winter.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : * Adirondack Ice & Mixed
By: Gunkiemike When: Jan 18, 2017

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Comments: Blue Lines 2 is out! In the intro Don says that this will be his last book, so I'm not sure who'll be collecting new route info from here on; Jim, maybe you?


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Jackie (5.5)
By: Gunkiemike When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: So lots of folks know that climbing the 2nd pitch of Classic is a great way to go after P1 of Jackie. But it can get even better - climb the arete that's just left of Classic's P2 dihedral. Details and photo:
mountainproject.com/v/11237109...


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Cosmic Ray (5.7+)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: IMPORTANT - the black Tricam is the 0.25. The white is the .125. Since the black is specified by color here (who uses numbers for the small pieces??), I assume that's correct. I stayed away from this route based on the book specifying the .125.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Aquarius (5.6)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: Book says the mantle is the crux, but group consensus today was that the first few moves were the hardest part. No problem with the mantle at all. Nice route with great pro - def. want the double 2s and 3s, and a 4 plugged well overhead gave me a warm feeling on the opening.


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Sagittarius (5.8+ R)
By: Gunkiemike When: Nov 7, 2016

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Comments: I found nothing remotely 5.8 about the unprotected (PG? Really?? You could take a 30 footer from that spot) upper face. More like 10a, and I only found the "nice hueco" (ADK Rock descr.) while trending up and R from the Starline bolt after TR'ing that line.


Location: New York : The Gunks : Peterskill : c. LA Roof : Sound The Horn (5.9) : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 27, 2016

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Comments: 7 years later that stump is still there.


Location: Vermont : Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana : Main Crag : Photo
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: Man, that brings back memories.


Location: Vermont : Lake Dunmore/Falls of Lana : Main Crag
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 14, 2016

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Comments: The trail (such as it is) takes off from the south end of the campground loop that's on the EAST side of the road (main campground, ranger booth, beach etc are on the west side). I used to take my kids climbing on the quartzite cliffs here every summer, and access was simple. Now, however, the area has been designated a National Recreation Area, and there have been some changes. Camping at Falls of Lana is no more, the privy along the fire road to Silver Lake has been remo... more >>


Location: New York : Adirondacks : G: Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Glee Club Crack (5.3)
By: Gunkiemike When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: The consensus of our little group today is that stemming that awkward early move is the way to go.


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