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Member Since: Aug 15, 2004
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Gregger Man
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Point Rank: # 1,214
Total Points: 576

23 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Gregger Man been climbing?










Contributions


All 1075 | Routes 13 | Areas 2 | Photos 211 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 61 | Posts 666 | Stars 115 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Cosmosis (5.10a)
By: Gregger Man When: Jul 9, 2017

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Comments: The second pitch is worth doing. Regarding the length of P2, I noted yesterday that the end of the final dihedral is just over 35m from the bolted anchor at the top of P1.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Big, Big, Monkey Man (5.12b)
By: Gregger Man When: Jun 17, 2017

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Comments: The 5 lead bolts have been replaced as of 6/17/2017 with glue-in bolts.
They were relics:
Rock Climbing Photo: Relics from Big, Big, Monkey Man.
Relics from Big, Big, Monkey Man.



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Toys for Tots (5.11a R)
By: Gregger Man When: May 23, 2017

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Comments: Bolts replaced as of 05/07/2017.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Piece Easy (5.6 R)
By: Gregger Man When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: As for the chimney at the end - climbing through the cave requires zero chimney/climbing moves but one spelunking move. Wiggling through the pinch would definitely be impossible for a climber with a large chest or hips.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Black Sun (5.10b)
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 24, 2017

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Comments: I lost a good chunk of ankle meat on this. My size 13 boats don't heel/toe very well against the calcite.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Heart of Gold (5.12-)
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: Bolts are all stainless and modern now. Bolt #9 is ~2' lower because the previous location was in bad/hollow rock.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 13, 2017

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Comments: So that was your chalk - we were there the same day. My buddy, Dave, was leading that pitch, and we told him to turn left at the top. He followed the chalk out right and went to the top instead. That's a fantastic variation.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: I found a slight variation on P3. After the bolt and barn door move, Rossiter gives the remainder of the route a grade of 5.2 to the tree. If you instead stay on the face and traverse left up the diagonal band in a straight line to the Predator anchor, you get 30' or so of exposed 5.7+ or so climbing that protects reasonably well with medium-sized Camalots.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Le Toit Direct (5.11d R)
By: Gregger Man When: Mar 13, 2017

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Comments: Bolts upgraded as of 03/12/2017.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Gregger Man When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: The 1/4" lead bolts have been replaced. From the look of it, this 'horrible old bolt' on P2 has been cracked in half for a very long time. Worthless. New bolt is in the same hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1/4" bolt from below P2 crux.
1/4" bolt from below P2 crux.



Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Gregger Man When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: I cleaned up a couple cams off the route today. I got a first generation green Camalot off the first pitch and one of the five #3s on the last pitch. I had a hammer and a funkness, but the rest are going to require a hacksaw. The one I removed was the most annoying - just before the crux move. Neither cam is serviceable any longer.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Stargate (5.11b)
By: Gregger Man When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Anchor up top - wrap three or four strands of rope around the tip of the summit (tensionless hitch) which gives a high enough point to belay from while seated on the sharp block to climber's right. Not super comfortable but strong and effective.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Vulcans Don't Lie (5.10a)
By: Gregger Man When: Oct 11, 2016

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Comments: Did a link-up of P1-3 of Captain Beyond with a finish on Perversion and Vulcans Don't Lie. My partner got the rope stuck behind the flake a couple body lengths above the climber in this photo (the detached green one, not the upper brown one). It stuck solidly while he was at the crux of VDL. I had him anchor into three pieces, and I rope-soloed the pitch on clove hitches to get up to the flake and build a belay there. Placing a nut at the top of that flake would probably keep... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Rewritten (5.7)
By: Gregger Man When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments:
Jason Kim wrote:
My first visit to Eldo and Rewritten left me disappointed...

Jason - The Beloved Chosspile also known as Eldo is an acquired taste. It's too bad that you didn't enjoy your route that much, but only 3 out of 773 climbers have given this climb less than 2 stars. Sounds like you had a bad day. Do Ruper or Gambit at daybreak for cooler temps next time. The charm of Eldo is a diamond-in-the-rough quality that sets it apart from sport c... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4 PG13)
By: Gregger Man When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: Unfortunately this is no longer as good a pitch for beginner trad leaders as it was before the rock scaling. The removal of that column of rock has left a few suspect holds, and the tree snapped off during the operation. It was once 'G' rated but now is probably 'PG-13' for a novice (good gear not as obvious or plentiful.)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : It's Time For Change (5.8)
By: Gregger Man When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: Death block on the arete is gone.


Location: Colorado
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Percious - click 'view votes'

view votes

(sorry for the clunky website - hopefully it will be overhauled soon.)


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a/b)
By: Gregger Man When: Apr 4, 2016

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Comments: Fun route. We did this in 6 pitches with a 70m rope (combined the final three into two). Didn't take a #4 but would have placed it if we had. Placed only 3 nuts on the entire route. Last pitch is pretty run out but easy. Somewhat complicated descent.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Split Block : Ohmer's Odyssey (5.9)
By: Gregger Man When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: Really fun pitch.
Build an anchor on the right just shy of the end with a few 1/2"-3/4" pieces and lower. (If you're going to walk this far, everyone in the party should get to lead it. Last guy gets a second lap.)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part F - The P... : Potato Chip Route (Regular ... (5.10c PG13)
By: Gregger Man When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: I wish I had taped the inside of my left ankle. The edge of the crack is very sharp.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Point Break (5.11a)
By: Gregger Man When: Feb 28, 2016

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Comments: Yup. Finally all done.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Point Break (5.11a)
By: Gregger Man When: Feb 27, 2016

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Comments: Cut seven layers of tat off the 4.5" belay/rappel tree. The tree creaked audibly when weighted and was scarred by the slings.
Installed two stainless bolts with double rings a few feet to the right.
The summit has a large dead tree that used to be an anchor. There is a vertical glue-in anchor now that works either direction - rap the route or rap to the block at the base of Gambit where the trail is nice.


Location:
By: Gregger Man When: Jan 22, 2016

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Comments: No spinning required on that stud, huh?
Dude, the Greenlee abides. :0)


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9+)
By: Gregger Man When: Oct 20, 2015

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Comments: Chris, regarding rope drag on P4: right at that corner, place a medium-sized nut upside down (with the wire pointing up). It's not there to catch a fall, but the rope runs against the nut and won't jam in the crack. Works like a charm.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Gregger Man When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: This is where the old bent pin was for ~40+ years at the crux of the first pitch.


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