REI Community


Member Since: Jul 23, 2010
Last Visit: Jan 16, 2018
Contact greg t

Point Rank: # 930
Total Points: 900

365 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



Where has greg t been climbing?










Contributions


All 358 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Approach Trails | Photos 173 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 51 | Stars 50 | Ratings 3
Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah > Zion National Park > The Watchman > Chastity Crack (5.11)
By: greg t When: Dec 4, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Rack beta:
(1x) red c3
(2x) .4 - #3
(3x) #1, #2
(1x) #4
(1x) yellow & orange metolius
(3x) runners

Curious why the first pitch anchors don't have rap rings. If they did, then you could rap the route with one 60m. I saw a piece of a stuck rope in pitch 1, perhaps that's a clue. But I would suggest to bring a set of quick links and short chains and 1 rope.
Pitch 3 is ****


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Bridger Jacks > Sacred Space (5.11)
By: greg t When: Nov 1, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: a 4 star blue-collar roller coaster.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Perla's Ridge and Environs > Ridge of Bliss (5.10 PG13)
By: greg t When: Oct 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: The rappel drops you into the Shambala Wall. Year of the Pig and Red Moon Phase are both worth doing while you're there.

The #4 is still there, probably bring a hammer if you really want it back.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Fin > The Lateral Fin (5.12a/b)
By: greg t When: Oct 19, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: three or four .5s would not go unused on the crux pitch.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Fin > The Pabst Schmear (5.10a)
By: greg t When: Oct 13, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: You can rap to the top of it when getting off The Wave Of Mutilation ( w/ 70m ) as a fun bonus pitch.


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > The Fin > Fish For Brains (5.10b)
By: greg t When: Oct 12, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: you'd be jumping off the ends with a 60m, a 70m would make things nice


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Highway (88) > Calaveras Domes
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Ellis Rd, 8n 32 Rd, & Panther Creek Rd were all closed on 6/15/17


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Lower Buckhorn Wash > Life During Wartime (5.8 A3+ R)
By: greg t When: Jun 3, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Sounds rowdy! nice work.
The "unknown route left of the pillar" is a 2 pitch aid route "Disconnect". Put up in the late 90's by Bill Ohran.
I just established a free route that starts at the base of the pillar and links into Bill's aid route, then continues to the summit. "Crossroads" 11+


Location: Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of the Gunniso... > North Rim Routes > North Chasm View Wall > Highway 61 Revisited (5.11a)
By: greg t When: May 16, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: My partner, who really knows his shit, thought it tasted more like bat poop... but it really wasn't bad at all. Great route! (Climbed 5.15.17).


Location: Utah > Cedar City > Spring Creek > Rigel's Wall (5.10+)
By: greg t When: Apr 23, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route in a scenic setting. Thanks for adding this.

Just a thought on the anchor situation. Why not have a two bolt anchor at the top of P1 slightly lower than the bolt at the better stance? The ‘gear back up’ is in some questionable rock. Also you could rap back to P1 ( with a mild pengi ), then rap back to your packs. Thus avoiding the additional rap station that drops you into the bushes.

There are some cool pictographs just uphill from the route.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Kolob Canyon > Paria Point > Wind Sand & Stars (5.12 R)
By: greg t When: Feb 28, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: There is a good article on this route in Rock and Ice Issue 98 written by Craig Luebben. There is a photo of the large flake on pitch 4. They foot traversed in front of it while mildly hugging the flake. Seems scary. I hand traversed in front of it completely avoiding touching the flake all together.
Side note: its more of a boulder held up by stacked dirt than a loose flake. Sounds worse than it is.


Location: South America > Argentina > Rio Negro > San Carlos de Bariloche > Frey > ... > Sifuentes-Monti (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Feb 21, 2017

view comment >>
Comments: I heard some holds broke off on P2. Definitely felt hard for 6b+... even in Frey. At least there is a shiny bolt at the crux.


Location: Utah > Zion National Park > Moonlight Buttress > The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: greg t When: Dec 5, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I would never say don't aid this route, but please don't make this your first aid route. Learn to be smooth an efficient first, it'll be less damaging to the rock. And don't bounce test c1. complete waist of time.
A good write up on this subject by Andrew Bisharat
eveningsends.com/when-do-aid-c...


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Tanners Gulch > Skinny Puppy Wall > Skinny Puppy (5.11b)
By: greg t When: Nov 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pretty spicy lead. Bad gear in questionable rock. Easy and worthwhile to set up a TR from Downward Spiral.


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Lower Buckhorn Wash > Short Stack (5.11a) > Photo
By: greg t When: Nov 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yeah, I heard that too. but I bet the crux is still runout or has a bent bolt sticking half way out. Whoa Dude!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwood Canyon > Green Adjective Gully > Lucid Dreaming (5.11c)
By: greg t When: Oct 19, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Fun climbing. Pretty stout if compared to other 11c's in the canyon. A larger wingspan would help.


Location: Wyoming > Grand Teton National Park > Death Canyon > Cathedral Buttress > The Snaz (5.10a)
By: greg t When: Aug 16, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: confirmed. Rap with 1 70m


Location: California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Highway (88) > Calaveras Domes > Calaveras Dome > Wall of the Worlds (5.10+ PG13)
By: greg t When: Jun 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I would bring a 70m lead line and a 60m tag. Leave the tag on top of pitch 4.

All day sun on June 26

Did not see any baby falcons


Location: Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell - North > Lower Buckhorn Wash > Short Stack (5.11a) > Photo
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Really, this is still your mtn proj profile pic? A subpar route in the swell. Havent you ever heard of Deprivation 29?


Location: Idaho > South Idaho > City of Rocks > Checkered Demon > Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Seemed standard city of rocks 11a. On par with Cairo, scar tissue, easier than terror of tiny town. Fun!


Location: Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood Canyon > JHCOB Wall > Ream's Chimney (5.8+)
By: greg t When: Jun 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I think the description of the second pitch is a little off. According to the Ruckman guide, you traverse left on the next crack up. It's much better quality rock. The second set of chains for Weed B Gone are on the right of the crack.

All in all, mediocre climbing on subpar rock.


Location: Utah > West Desert > House Range > Notch Peak > La Fin du Monde (5.10) > Photo
By: greg t When: May 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Well thanks for putting it up for us to enjoy. I cant imagine how much work it is to put up routes on Notch Peak. So much choss!


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > The Bridger Jacks > Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Rapped East face ( Wild Flower ) with 1 70m. Came up short on 2nd rappel, but not by much. Built a temporary gear anchor and easily down climbed to rap anchor.
Logistically I think it's easier than bringing a 2nd rope.

Leave packs at base of Wild Flower and hike around to Rim Shot.

4/5/16 there was a stuck newish #2 on P4. It'll probably come loose with a hammer.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Island In The Sky > Moses
By: greg t When: Apr 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Possible to rap the north face with 1 70m.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Potash Road > Long Canyon > Reptilian Wall > Seventh Serpent (5.11)
By: greg t When: Mar 18, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: An 80m is just barely long enough to link both pitches and come back down.


Page 1 of 4.  1  2  3  4   Next>   Last>>

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · Contact · About