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Member Since: Jul 23, 2010
Last Visit: 52 mins ago
Contact greg t

Point Rank: # 979
Total Points: 725

298 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has greg t been climbing?










Contributions


All 316 | Routes 2 | Areas 1 | Photos 152 | Page Improvements | Comments 69 | Posts 45 | Stars 44 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Cedar City : Spring Creek : Rigel's Wall (5.10+)
By: greg t When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Fun route in a scenic setting. Thanks for adding this.

Just a thought on the anchor situation. Why not have a two bolt anchor at the top of P1 slightly lower than the bolt at the better stance? The ‘gear back up’ is in some questionable rock. Also you could rap back to P1 ( with a mild pengi ), then rap back to your packs. Thus avoiding the additional rap station that drops you into the bushes.

There are some cool pictographs just uphill from the route.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Wind Sand & Stars (5.12 R)
By: greg t When: Feb 28, 2017

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Comments: There is a good article on this route in Rock and Ice Issue 98 written by Craig Luebben. There is a photo of the large flake on pitch 4. They foot traversed in front of it while mildly hugging the flake. Seems scary. I hand traversed in front of it completely avoiding touching the flake all together.
Side note: its more of a boulder held up by stacked dirt than a loose flake. Sounds worse than it is.


Location: South America : Argentina : San Carlos de Bariloche : Frey : Aguja Frey : Sifuentes-Monti (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Feb 21, 2017

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Comments: I heard some holds broke off on P2. Definitely felt hard for 6b+... even in Frey. At least there is a shiny bolt at the crux.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Cle... (5.8 C1)
By: greg t When: Dec 5, 2016

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Comments: I would never say don't aid this route, but please don't make this your first aid route. Learn to be smooth an efficient first, it'll be less damaging to the rock. And don't bounce test c1. complete waist of time.
A good write up on this subject by Andrew Bisharat
eveningsends.com/when-do-aid-c...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Skinny Puppy Wall : Skinny Puppy (5.11b)
By: greg t When: Nov 10, 2016

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Comments: Pretty spicy lead. Bad gear in questionable rock. Easy and worthwhile to set up a TR from Downward Spiral.


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.11a) : Photo
By: greg t When: Nov 6, 2016

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Comments: Yeah, I heard that too. but I bet the crux is still runout or has a bent bolt sticking half way out. Whoa Dude!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Lucid Dreaming (5.11c)
By: greg t When: Oct 19, 2016

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Comments: Fun climbing. Pretty stout if compared to other 11c's in the canyon. A larger wingspan would help.


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : The Snaz (5.10a)
By: greg t When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: confirmed. Rap with 1 70m


Location: California : Central Sierra : Calaveras Domes : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10+ PG13)
By: greg t When: Jun 30, 2016

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Comments: I would bring a 70m lead line and a 60m tag. Leave the tag on top of pitch 4.

All day sun on June 26

Did not see any baby falcons


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.11a) : Photo
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Really, this is still your mtn proj profile pic? A subpar route in the swell. Havent you ever heard of Deprivation 29?


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Checkered Demon : Checkered Demon (5.11a)
By: greg t When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: Seemed standard city of rocks 11a. On par with Cairo, scar tissue, easier than terror of tiny town. Fun!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Ream's Chimney (5.8+)
By: greg t When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: I think the description of the second pitch is a little off. According to the Ruckman guide, you traverse left on the next crack up. It's much better quality rock. The second set of chains for Weed B Gone are on the right of the crack.

All in all, mediocre climbing on subpar rock.


Location: Utah : West Desert : House Range : Notch Peak : La Fin du Monde (5.10) : Photo
By: greg t When: May 9, 2016

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Comments: Well thanks for putting it up for us to enjoy. I cant imagine how much work it is to put up routes on Notch Peak. So much choss!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Rim Shot (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Rapped East face ( Wild Flower ) with 1 70m. Came up short on 2nd rappel, but not by much. Built a temporary gear anchor and easily down climbed to rap anchor.
Logistically I think it's easier than bringing a 2nd rope.

Leave packs at base of Wild Flower and hike around to Rim Shot.

4/5/16 there was a stuck newish #2 on P4. It'll probably come loose with a hammer.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses
By: greg t When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: Possible to rap the north face with 1 70m.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Reptilian Wall : Seventh Serpent (5.11)
By: greg t When: Mar 18, 2016

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Comments: An 80m is just barely long enough to link both pitches and come back down.


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Fiddler on the Roof (5.10+)
By: greg t When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: Just like.. my opinion man.. but this route isn't that great. The quality of climbing doesn't really justify the runouts, nor is it that quality to begin with. If you like to run it out a bit, I think Risky Business is a much better route.


Location: Connecticut : Central Valley : Pinnacle Rock : Dream Weaver Wall : Great Expectations (5.8 R)
By: greg t When: Dec 17, 2015

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Comments: George, if you don't lead it, then how else would Ryan's rope get up there?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Stardust Cowboy (5.11-)
By: greg t When: Dec 10, 2015

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Comments: Really fun route!

P2 seemed on the harder side of 5.10 if not 11- ( just for a bit ). The loose blocks didn't seem to bad, but I wouldn't trust gear in the flake.

An optional finish for the 4th pitch would be to take the easy handcrack up and left. This joins up with the kor-ingals and avoids the North Chimney. It seemed like a better option for rope drag and communication. Although, use extreme caution with the massive rocker block you crawl up and over around the corner.

You don't need a... more >>


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : The Hook Direct (5.10c R)
By: greg t When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: the ever exfoliating LCC slabs.. I still chipped off some loose flakes today ( 11.14.15 ) felt pretty full on 10c slab. Definitely worth a lap if you're into that sort of thing.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Bird's View Butte / Crow's ... : Rim Routes : Think Ya Should (5.11c)
By: greg t When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: red camalots seemed to work fine. 4 or 5 should do


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : Paria Point : Wind Sand & Stars (5.12 R)
By: greg t When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Thanks. Hope I wasn’t stepping on any toes by adding this. I just thought it was a great line that deserves more attention. Hollow flakes? Of course. Dangerous? Not necessarily. The overall rock quality was better than expected, but you still need use your desert rat skills. Use everything, trust nothing. There are also a lot of old pitons and star drives for belays. All part of the fun. As far as the hangerless bolt on P10, the bolt is sticking pretty far out and is fairly rusted. It has a nut... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12+) : Photo
By: greg t When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: One of my favorite pitches of all time.. its just too bad that my arms are pretty tired by the time I climb all the way up there. Still working on the RP.. but I'm pretty sure that's not the point.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11- R) : Photo
By: greg t When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: George had one too many cheeseburgers at Milts


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Tower Of Babel : Concrete Jungle (5.11c)
By: greg t When: Jun 15, 2015

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Comments: Hmm... I must be doing it all wrong. ..Pretty good route. Great rock, fun climbing, but I think it doesn't quite deserve the hype because its relatively easy until the very end. So it's just not as consistent at the grade as say its action packed neighbors Fuego and Pump or Jump. ..But don't get me wrong.. fun climb, and a great warm-up for the other 2 classics.


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