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Member Since: Apr 29, 2009
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Greg Kuchyt
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Point Rank: # 905
Total Points: 785

13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Greg Kuchyt been climbing?










Contributions


All 634 | Routes 50 | Areas 13 | Photos 40 | Page Improvements | Comments 114 | Posts 79 | Stars 206 | Ratings 132
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Mal Bouche (5.12-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: After a couple failed attempts to take the crack on directly, I revisited this recently and opened my eyes to the other options and was surprised to find a much more moderate way to breach the overhang. One crux move gets you past the lip and then a fun and engaging exit keeps the excitement level up. I really feel like the full routes is one of the better routes in the Bolton Valley crags with great climbing throughout. While the crux is quite short, it's still a fair bit of climbing involv... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : A-Sharp (5.6)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 27, 2017

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Comments: The anchor is now a glue-in inline chainset up and right of where the old anchor used to be.
Rock Climbing Photo: A Sharp anchor re-positioned. Red arrow is the old...
A Sharp anchor re-positioned. Red arrow is the old anchor, green is the new anchor with an inset photo of the new anchor.



Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Bolton Quarry : Schoolhouse/Main Quarry : Anything For An A (5.7+)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: May 12, 2017

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Comments: The top anchor was replaced with a slightly longer stainless set, that puts the rap rings over the lip so the rope hangs/pulls freely. That just happened by accident when I replaced the right-hand bolt in the anchor. I had miscounted the number of links in the original chain set.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Main Wall : War on Drugs (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The bolts on this route were all inspected and replaced as needed between 04.14.2017 and 04.15.2017. Seven of the bolts on the route ended up showing one sign or another of not functioning properly and were replaced with glue-ins.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : 82 Crag
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Apr 15, 2017

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Comments: The bolts Matt and Kris are referencing were inspected and replaced as needed between 4.14.17 and 4.15.17. Thanks to Rob Fleming for his help.


Location: West Virginia : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Cotton Top : Love Sock (5.12a)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: Actually a good bit of technical climbing on the upper face that is split into three different boulder problems with almost perfectly placed "rests".


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Solarium (5.12b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 16, 2016

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Comments: Derek is pretty spot on in all points. My two-cents, this is the hardest of the three 12b routes in the book (Beyond, Doggfather, Solarium).

The gear is there on the upper part but you'll need the hang time to fiddle with it to get something that will work. The stance above the last bolt presents the first opportunity to plug gear in. On an on-sight, throw in at least two pieces as they have to work (I put in three even on the redpoint). The gear above is good but it is very... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : The Doggfather (5.12b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Oct 2, 2016

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Comments: The 5th bolt has been replaced with a glue-in.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Upper Tier - Right End : Hippie With a Hand Grenade (5.11c/d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 28, 2016

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Comments: What happened at the first bolt?


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Bilateral symmetry (5.11a/b PG13)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 17, 2016

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Comments: Great route that deserves more attention.

Two finger size pieces are good for the top, as the placement is pretty critical.

A couple cams in the 1-1.5" range provide somewhat dubious protection gaining the left-facing corner.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : 82 Crag : 82 Steep Wall : Crusty By Nature (5.10d)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Perhaps a better way to use this as a warm-up is to link into Afro Samurai at the bulge. It's an easy traverse across and gives you some steep jugs to finish on which rounds out the thinner section below. A double shoulder sling is useful to clip the bolt on Crusty long to protect the traverse over.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Upper West : Lower Tier : Fresh Meat (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Just for clarity, Zak's comment about not an easy TR is prior to a shared anchor being installed with Paradox. The anchor sits between the two lines and facilitates easy top-roping if you're able to get to the top of either line.

This anchor was converted to a pig-tail lower-off a couple months ago. Please help the hardware last as long as possible and don't top-rope directly through the pig-tail. Setup your own top-rope anchor off the... more >>


Location: Vermont : Mt Mansfield : Cantilever Rock : Walk the Plank (5.9)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: So this isn't an FA then? If not, who is the FA team and date?


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Easy Gully Buttress : The Deep End (5.11-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: My guess, just checked to see if it fit (since visibly the standard 9/16" nut is a different outer diameter than the standard 17mm nut) and then it cross-threaded and got stuck. I say this because I basically did the exact same thing in my apartment. If you do the math, the thread pattern for 3/8-16 is like a few thousands of an inch off from 10mm x 1.5mm or something like that. So in this case it starts to thread initially, but then cross-threads.


Location: Vermont : Smuggler's Notch : Easy Gully Buttress : The Deep End (5.11-)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Sep 5, 2016

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Comments: Agreed with Derek, the first pitch is burly without much character. I think it should be possible to start as for Snowflake and just traverse across the P1 belay ledge to the the anchor above P1 of The Deep End. The step up to the base of Hummingbird Crack is a little funky so belaying across might be the best plan there.

So the questionable bolt is like the 9th bolt on P2. After looking at it, what I see is that someone tried to help out and put a new nut on it. Thing is, Fixe is a Spanish com... more >>


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Talking Crack (5.6)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: You can get by with just a 3 on this.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 19, 2016

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Comments: After a final evaluation I removed the last bolt entirely but re-positioned the 4th bolt a few meters lower. I discovered that the "bomber" red C3/blue alien placement mid-way between the 3rd bolt and the crux roof was formed by two large hollow blocks. Given that the holds in this section are a lot of hollow flakes and the fact that the corner to the left bulges out below, I compromised on the side of fall protection. The fourth bolt is now a couple meters below wh... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : What's up, doc? (5.9 R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: I think this is actually the route Say Goodnight Dick. What's Up Doc? is to the left of the arete.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments: Before climbing this route I thought the comments regarding the soft ratings were a bit outlandish, but having done the route I feel like each pitch is one to two number grades off.

Despite the Top 100 status, my personal opinion is if you can confidently climb 5.9 then avoid the crowds, climb Snake, and don't worry about missing Diedre. I thought Snake was a significantly better route (minus the start and finish) that gave you similar climbing but with each pitch having a d... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Bone Mountain : The Main Cliff : A. Left End : Jolly Roger (5.10b/c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: The most reputable of the rolled aluminum rings are rated at 14kN MBS, hopefully this single one is from a reputable manufacturer. Best practice would be to add another one or some other backup on that anchor. Steel rings are stronger and can be used individually but these alu rings should be placed in pairs.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Catch Me Quick(er) (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: This is likely a route best for a confident 5.10 leader. I used a half dozen pieces from fingers up to a #3.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : Shannon Falls : Jump to Light Speed (5.10c)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point).


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Smoke Bluffs : ... : Ridge Runner (5.8)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 26, 2016

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Comments: The Bourdon guide's gear beta for this is not really accurate. You only need some RPs and a couple finger/tips sized cams (doubled-up, because why not?) for the obvious crack before the first bolt. The protection is reasonable for a confident 5.9 climber and I felt the bolt placements were pretty right on. If you're not a strong friction climber you'll likely wish there was closer pro at the top and a fall would likely be unpleasant.


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Tea in the Sahara (5.10b)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: I feel like this route and Sticks and Stones are akin to Discombobulated and Legacy in the New River Gorge. Sticks is the classic like Legacy and Tea is the ugly-duckling that is either loved or hated. In both cases I guess I see the diamond in the rough and I think Tea is a worthwhile route. A few tips and finger sized cams and a number 1 C4 are all you need for gear.

I replaced the hardware on this last year after talking with Mark about how to handle the litany of non-FA party bolts added. F... more >>


Location: Vermont : Bolton Area : Lower West Bolton : Hailstorm (5.10a R)
By: Greg Kuchyt When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: The crux is protected by an acceptable small wire and cam (TCUs and C3s helpful) that can be equalized. Use a screamer if you really want to feel warm and soft inside. Small gear takes care and patience in the best of times. Even some of the larger gear on this route takes patience and skill to set in the best manner. With the requisite bag of skills, it's PG.


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