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Member Since: Oct 3, 2008
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Greg Gavin
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Point Rank: # 1,304
Total Points: 523

46 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Greg Gavin been climbing?










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All 2032 | Routes 25 | Areas 1 | Photos 78 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 228 | Posts 699 | Stars 849 | Ratings 151
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : East Gate Buttress : Sidekick (5.8 PG13)
By: Greg Gavin When: May 1, 2017

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Comments: Not a bad route, but not great. Discontinuous features with the odd move thrown in there to keep you honest. Might clean up with more traffic, but not likely. Would recommend to those who've climbed everything else or want a quick approach to the Flakes or Wildthings.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coal Pit Buttress : Stiffler's Mom (5.11a) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Nov 9, 2016

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Comments: This looks like the 5.6 pitch 5.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Curiosity (5.11)
By: Greg Gavin When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Don't bring #4 camalots. Bring #4 Friends. Not quite fists up top for me...to small.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Coyne Crack (5.11d)
By: Greg Gavin When: Oct 20, 2016

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Comments: Who put those in? What kind of bolt/hangers? Are they stainless?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Hand Jive (5.9-)
By: Greg Gavin When: Sep 14, 2016

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Comments: Just stem across the gully into the crack at the bottom. What's the big deal?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall : Slot Machine (5.11b/c)
By: Greg Gavin When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Didn't find any worthwhile gear getting to the bolt. It's about ~5.10 to clip it so just don't fall.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : The Gardner's Delight (5.9)
By: Greg Gavin When: Aug 13, 2016

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Comments: Isn't the corner left of the great escape the old route expanding man?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hogum Fork : Hogum's Heroes (5.11-)
By: Greg Gavin When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Beat Out beta coming from Red Pine Lake to Hogum col.

Gain the LCC/AF Ridgeline via the red pine lake/pfieiferhorn summer trail, and immediately cross over the ridge dropping through a very short 3rd class cliff band. Traverse beneath the Pfief roughly ~200 vertical feet aiming for grassy sections on it's southern slope. This grade will guide you directly toward the Hogum col where you gain regain the ridge line, and drop in.

Great route, good gear, and fantastic belay ledg... more >>


Location: Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : The Grand Traverse (5.8) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jul 28, 2016

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Comments: Take the lowest notch that may or may not contain slings. Rap this then bank right into the gully where you'll find one more rap. Descent the gully looking for the house sized boulder that gets you into the Gunsight notch.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jul 19, 2016

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Comments: The tower 1 downclimb can be located easiliy from the top, but looking SW 30-40ft using a platform as a land mark. Find this and there should be a clean finger crack on perfect quartzite. This is the 3rd class option.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Shadow of Death (5.10)
By: Greg Gavin When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: This climb is exactly 90 meters long which makes if 295ft. Just sayin! Shingo's description lines you up for a fantastic 60m pitch 1, and awesome 30m pitch 2.

Shadow of Death is a phenomenal line that should be on every crack climbers list. No solution pockets here to save your ass!


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : South Summit Wall : Free Mexican Air Force (5.11b PG13)
By: Greg Gavin When: Jul 13, 2016

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Comments: Excellent route! The machine bolts appear to be roughly 3/8's studs so if they're deep they should be good, but the number of threads that are in the rock is the unknown. Could be a bunch or they could be in 2 threads! Bring an extra set of peenuts. Overall this climb appears to ascend the largest continuous wall in the cirque. Pretty cool stuff.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Hyperform Wall : Jibrones Highway (5.10b) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jul 7, 2016

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Comments: They look doable Jonathan albeit a bit thin. When we scoped them out (3yrs ago) it appeared they might need a top down effort or nailing on direct aid to clean it from the ground up which we weren't wanting to do. Judging from that Bigwood route (5.13 right?) to the left of Book of Rhymes I assume they'll be stout, but easier. If you're keen I've got loads of free time this summer to get on it, and see if they go!


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Ian - The theory is that the dark "chicken head" material, and granite are two immiscible fluids while in their liquid state - like oil and water. With the formation of a granitic pluton growth happens via syntaxial or antitaxial crack seal growth. So these periodic injections of material naturally include both felsic material, and mafic materials intermingle getting introduced to the pluton.

The former is a frontier, and not fully understood. The later is well stu... more >>


Location: Utah : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Lower Buckhorn Wash : Short Stack (5.11a) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Heard some chuffers are bolting the shit out of Buckhorn draw!


Location: North America : Canada : Northwest Territories : The Cirque of the Unclimbab... : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Jun 15, 2016

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Comments: Xenolith is now a defunct term in geology. The preferred term is "mafic enclave"!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Culvert Canyon Block Tower : Southeast Face (5.11) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments: Cool preserved mud cracks under that roof.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a)
By: Greg Gavin When: Mar 5, 2016

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Comments: Maybe they were listening to lots of Chocolate and Cheese while watching Star Wars?


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: Greg Gavin When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Pics or it didn't happen...


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Siesta (5.10a)
By: Greg Gavin When: Mar 2, 2016

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Comments: Nice work! Tried to find this thing a few years back, and got lost. Thanks for cleaning it out.


Location: Utah : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Cabbage Patch : The Monolith (Easy 5th V-easy)
By: Greg Gavin When: Feb 3, 2016

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Comments: maybe in gym rating grog.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Kung Fu Theater : Shuriken (5.9+)
By: Greg Gavin When: Dec 16, 2015

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Comments: Nice I always walked by that thing, and wondered what it was. Those blocks at the bottom were incentive enough to keep walking!


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Walker Spur (5.10b/c R)
By: Greg Gavin When: Nov 30, 2015

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Comments: Doubles to .4 camalot for pitch 1. Doubles to #3 for pitch 2.

Pitch 1 currently has a fixed nut just above the pin which can be clipped from the same stance of the pin. Normally I try to clean all gear possible, but my follower is short and was unable to reach the placement after the crux. I assume the fixed nut won't last very long as a result. An orange metolius or red alien protects the runout on pitch 2 nicely.

Finishing the climb up Cat in the Hat makes for a nice day, and adds two... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b) : Photo
By: Greg Gavin When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: I think this is the 12b free variation off Toquerville Tower. The Sharp crack is just above the leader to their left.


Location: Utah : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Iron Hayden Wall : Beer Mule (5.10a)
By: Greg Gavin When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Definitely recommend the link up Where Vultures Steel Beer. Vultures Pitch 1 -> Sun and Steel Pitch 2 -> Beer Run -> Vultures last pitch. The difficulty never goes above 10a, and stays on great rock until the last pitch of Vultures. But if you're psyched just do the last bolted pitch of Sun and Steel as the alternate finish.


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