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Member Since: Apr 10, 2006
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact Greg Barnes

Greg Barnes
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Point Rank: # 429
Total Points: 1,498

36 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Greg Barnes been climbing?










Contributions


All 976 | Routes 89 | Areas 19 | Photos 102 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 104 | Posts 480 | Stars 138 | Ratings 43
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : Heart of the Narrows (5.12b)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 16, 2017

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Comments: First pitch gets a bomb rating, poor bolting and contrived.


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Five-piece Bolts
By: Greg Barnes When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: The opening sentence:

"The five-piece, such as the Power-bolt (also known as the rawl bolt) and the Hilti HSL, is easy to spot on the rock by its flat hex-head with no visible threads."

can be misleading, since Taper bolts also have a hex head. 1/4" Taper bolts are sometimes mistaken for 3/8" 5-pieces. Luckily, as in this photo, they are usually coupled with sketchy hangers. Still, sometimes they're with a good looking stainless hanger, and the only way to spot them is ... more >>


Location: Fixed Hardware: Bolting & A... : Hardware : Climbing Bolt Types : Five-piece Bolts
By: Greg Barnes When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: The new 3/8" Power-bolt+ should not be used for climbing, the shear strength is only half of old 3/8" 5-pieces, 3990 pounds. The 1/2" version is strong enough (same strength as the old 3/8").


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Tree Trimmer (5.11b/c)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 11, 2017

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Comments: Bolts replaced 5/11/17, hardware was provided by your donations to the ASCA! safeclimbing.org.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Lunchmoney (5.9+)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Feels like the reviews overhyped this route, I thought it was just OK, and the crux (the start of the lieback/fingers up high) has a bad fall, since you'll land on the slab and your belayer can't see you. Also seems a bit greasy there. I wouldn't put a 5.9 leader on this route.


Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Capitalist Crag : Lower Capitalist Crag : Cheap Labor (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: May 8, 2017

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Comments: Small greasy feet and reachy, not so great finger locks, 10d not 10a. If you're tall, strong, and have great edging shoes, then it could feel easier. I can see this being 10a before the feet got greased up (and I bet some small edges have become smaller).


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon
By: Greg Barnes When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: Looks like it's now $7 for the day use fee:

fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinter...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Frothing Green (5.10d)
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Fun route, but 5.10b or so (old school 5.9+) - nowhere near 5.11 unless you really try to force hard moves. I think people would like this route if it were advertised as a 5.10. Definitely use a 70m rope, my old 70 had maybe 10-15 feet on the start ledge.

I think the bolting on the top slab is kind of cool, you can climb either side of the slab and the bolts protect fine. I went up right for the first half, then traversed at a bolt to the arete/cracks/fin, nice exposure and climbing.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Curb Service (5.10b)
By: Greg Barnes When: Apr 27, 2017

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Comments: Guidebook typo? 11a off the deck unless you're super strong. Up high it's way harder than 10a if you try to follow the bolts.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Heart Throb (5.10)
By: Greg Barnes When: Mar 10, 2017

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Comments: Replaced the bolt today:
Rock Climbing Photo: Old 3/8" Star-Dryvin from Heart Throb next to...
Old 3/8" Star-Dryvin from Heart Throb next to the new bolt, a 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolt.


Hardware provided by your donations to the ASCA! safeclimbing.org


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10b/c)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 5, 2016

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Comments: Nick Rawluk and I replaced all 7 remaining 1/4" bolts today. All were replaced in the same hole except one pro bolt where the end of the bolt broke off in the hole (third pro bolt on pitch 4). We also checked the fixed pin at the optional anchor (good for now but small, good to back up the single bolt + pin with a piece up high if you belay there). Also added some fresh webbing to the first two rappels.

Not a single other party on the entire wall the whole day! Warm and sunny, th... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Your partner agreed as well? Huh, maybe I was having an off day, I'll try it again next time up there - you did start by stemming up the dihedral and moving left into the finger crack?

And no, I'm not too strong, it's been years (and 2 kids) since I onsighted harder than 9+, and even at my very strongest 11- was my max. Never even toproped a single 11c face clean (followed a few cracks up to there). Kept pulling finger tendons on face, cracks are my friend....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Olympic Swimmer (5.7)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: I wouldn't argue with 5.5 or 5.6, I figured it was a direct retrobolt of the first pitch of Lichen to Like, so I kept the 5.7 rating from the D'Antonio guide.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Pool Skimmer (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: No offense, Tony, but maybe you're too strong of a climber to accurately rate this? There's no way those moves left out of the initial stemming dihedral into the finger crack are anywhere near 5.7, you'll get someone hurt rating it that way (particularly with the thin pro). Maybe you climbed up to the first bolt a different way?


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: After the easy start, the first couple moves - cranking on finger locks with basically nothing for feet - is solid 5.10 (at Yosemite, the Needles, Joshua Tree, etc). Just because it's short doesn't mean people should sandbag. After those first couple cranks, it eases off to 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Unnamed (submitted as Doc's... (5.7)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: The pro before the first bolt is unlikely to hold due to rock quality. As is, it's just dumb, it either should have a bolt at the start, or just remove them all and return it to the original state....


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Bock! (5.7 PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: There are a lot of loose blocks at the top, but there's a detached block on the right wall - a logical foothold if trying to move around right to the anchor for the arete - which is ready to go and extremely dangerous for anyone on the ground. I'd recommend heading straight up and belaying from the tree.

This would be OK if the bushy start and rubble-filled finish were cleaned, but it's hard to recommend it as is.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Of Human Bondage (5.10 X)
By: Greg Barnes When: Oct 18, 2015

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Comments: Replaced both bolts 10/18/15 with 1/2" x 2.75" stainless bolts. The second bolt would not have held a take let alone a fall, it was fractured about 1/2" under the surface with only 20% of the metal left attached (on a 1/4" bolt).


Location: Colorado : Golden : Golden Gate Canyon SP : Lazy Squaw Spire : Lazy Squaw Spire (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Just a note - if you rap directly down the route on the southwest side, it's a 95' rap. Since a 60m is a "short" rope these days, it won't affect many people!


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nursing Home : Grampa's Day Out (5.9)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Dangerous for a 5.9 leader, easy to deck on the sharp ledge if you blow the crux moves getting past the first bolt. Also it's solid 5.10 if you try to go straight to the second bolt instead of staying right (and even staying right is very tough 5.9). I wouldn't be surprised if a hold or two broke off at some point. Short leaders may need an extendo draw to clip the first bolt.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: We replaced the worn links at the anchor last weekend with fat, stainless links & rings provided by the ASCA.

Please donate! The ASCA is a 501(c)3 organization. safeclimbing.org.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Triple Play (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This felt more than contrived - it was just silly. How far do you force a move before stepping back left? I led the stemming corner and clipped all the bolts, on toprope climbing anything other than that felt contrived. Almost like this "route" shouldn't even be in the database, just call it variations on the retrobolted stemming corner.

Still it's nice to be able to do the corner with just 4 draws...


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : Mountain Rose (5.10a PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: The bolt was a rusty 3/8" Lok-bolt design (e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php ) with the threads not quite fully engaged on the nut (perhaps someone had replaced the original thinner hanger with the Metolius hanger that was on it). It turned out the bolt was bent as well. Sketchy! This design of bolt is very weak in the 3/8" size even when new.

The bolt was provided by the ASCA, please donate and help replace old bolts! safeclimbing.org


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mountain Rose : War Drums (5.9 PG13)
By: Greg Barnes When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: All 3 bolts were replaced today 8/1/15, and we added a two bolt anchor to the left of the dying tree & removed all the tat off the tree (just a note - it's dying due to running out of dirt, it has nothing to do with climbers). The first two bolts were rusty 3/8" sleeve bolts (of the Lok-bolt design, e.g. powers.com/product_06160.php - a very weak bolt even when new), and the third was a 1/4" buttonhead.

Hardware for the bolt replacement was provided by the ASCA, please support bolt ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Timeless aka New Route Righ... (5.10a)
By: Greg Barnes When: Jul 25, 2015

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Comments: I agree with Nick. This has very delicate smeary stemming, Joshua Tree 5.10b or even c, only a few moves but a surprise if you're expecting 5.9-ish climbing. Fun!


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