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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Jul 16, 2005
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Point Rank: # 21,726
Total Points: 10

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3

Where has Greaser been climbing?


All 40 | Routes 1 | Areas | Approach Trails | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts | Stars 3 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Dynamometer (FA)

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b (12)

Sport, 3 pitches, 300'

Colorado : Boulder : ... : Lost Angel

Jan 1, 2002

Contributed Comments


Location: Colorado : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Corner Pump Station (5.11c)
By: Greaser When: Jul 16, 2005

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Comments: It has been a few years (5-6), but this is one of my [all time] favorites. Powerful and delicate all at the same time.

Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Greaser When: Oct 6, 2004

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Comments: Sounded like a fair question to me. I've known of a few "crazies" that have done the [Diamond] in the winter. So the question sounds reasonable.

Then again maybe I'm [naive].

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : Great White Crime (5.11a)
By: Greaser When: Sep 23, 2004

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Comments: I have fond memories of climbing this. Great route. To bad it was not a lot longer.

Is Turkey Rocks open now?

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Dynamometer (5.12c)
By: Greaser When: Sep 17, 2004

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Comments: That is, somewhere between 12c and 13a, a range. I'm not good at grading but that is where it would fall, I think. Harder if you don't have long arms and a little height.

Great route, though.

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Punishment For Shoplifting (5.10d)
By: Greaser When: Sep 9, 2004

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Comments: Richard, it has been red pointed, I sent it a few years ago (if we are talking about the same route) and I'm sure others have done so as well. [Equivalent] to a good [Shelf Road] 12b to me (not as hard as Oxamoxa, though). I am 6' with a slight positive ape index and it did make me stretch a bit. Great route.

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Lower Tier : South Facing : Music for the Dead (5.13b)
By: Greaser When: Aug 23, 2004

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Comments: Good, but stout.

Can't believe more people don't climb this.

Appears to have lost some foot holds on the left side of the crux (tick marks leading to feet that are no longer there and fresher rock scars remain). Anyone have any info on this?

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Mercy Drilling (5.12a)
By: Greaser When: Aug 19, 2004

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Comments: This mono is not man-made. Occasionally features like these are created when granite is formed and/or eroded. I've climbed this route and have looked for and have NOT found any signs of chipping. Look at the hueco on "American Beauty" next to this climb. It is NATURAL. I have seen these kinds of pockets on granite in many other areas, not chipped. Just because a route is at the Sport Park does not automatically mean that it is chipped or bad. There are some good routes up there.

This is a good ... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Naked Edge (5.11b)
By: Greaser When: Aug 13, 2004

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Comments: Telvis, I agree with the previous 2 ac's...those are all good routes to do in order to get your head into it. As well, they are very good routes just to do on their own.

Take you time and work your way up to it. This is [definitely] better on lead as well...every pitch. I would veture to say that it is best climb I've ever done. I've done it bottom to top 7 times and the first two pitches probably 30 -40 times as an after work workout and it was always GREAT.

You will have to do moves above... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest : Little John's Big Stick (5.9+)
By: Greaser When: Aug 3, 2004

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Comments: Paul, where, exactly do you stand on this issue???

Show me the [relevance] of WHATEVER I said to the incremental n=1,2,3...infinity expression (Are you trying to express this in terms of a series...) you used.

Would you approve of the removal of any bolt on the routes you established? I'm not suggesting you approve, just trying to understand what you are getting at.


You had to of known that this would become the topic of another heated debate that you have very definite views on. And... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Elanor (5.11d)
By: Greaser When: Jul 30, 2004

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Comments: "Thanks for the doublespeak explanation, Steve. Let's see, another and even better example of doublespeak would be Saturnalia. A route which toproped climbing that had previously been led onsight and then poorly retrobolted that climbing. And lets not forget no lo contendere, which also poorly bolted rock that had been onsight soloed. What knd of special honor should we confer on you?"


Anyway, I've climbed this many times as it is a great warm up, and have never thought of it as... more >>

Location: Colorado : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Cap-gun (aka Dave Bingham R... (5.12a/b)
By: Greaser When: Jul 20, 2004

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Comments: Is this the one that is between Fire Arms and In Your Face? If so, [yeah], this is a very cool route with a little crux at about 2/3 height. Felt about as hard as Fire Arms, but more fun to climb.

Location: Colorado : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Bourgeois Belay Slave aka B... (5.10b)
By: Greaser When: May 14, 2004

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Comments: I think that Shelf is fair in its ratings. Some are soft and some are stout for the rating. Do the routes around Hot Beach (on Cactus Cliff) to see what I mean or go do Rain in the Bank or The Example (some think it's soft). For me, Shelf is every bit as hard or harder than Rifle; for the rating. Even Rifle has a few routes that are soft.

WHO CARES! Just climb and enjoy it, Otherwise you are there for the wrong reasons!

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Greaser When: May 6, 2004

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Comments: Bernard, Thanks for the info on the access issues. I thought it looked a little like the approach might cross private property.

Is there a guide out or comming out for the [St. Vrain] area?

Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Life After James (5.11b)
By: Greaser When: May 5, 2004

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Comments: Matt, you found the route and you put it up the way you wanted to. I think most would feel that, since you found it and put the work into it, you have the right to apply your ethics to it.

If it is open for debate then this same principle could be applied to to other routes as well. Such as some trad routes in eldo that take a good head to lead could become open for retro-bolting. Certain old bold routes like Jules [Verne, Wide Country, Green Willow Wall, Evictor], etc. would be open for debate... more >>

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Finger Prince (5.13a)
By: Greaser When: May 4, 2004

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Comments: ac wrote: "How many potential 5.14's were chipped/pocketed to make 5.12's?"

Probably none. Is this topic about chipping or grading????

As for my .01$ on grading... To me, and since everyone is a little different, grading is a close approximation and that is all. Grades let me know if I should try something or move on. I mainly look for the quality ratings for the climb.

And, although I like to climb at my limit, having fun is the main goal. So... it doesn't really matter if it is .13 or .10... more >>

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Killer Fish Taco (5.11a)
By: Greaser When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: ...I said it here because it was brought up here, and I did not notice anything obviously chipped.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Killer Fish Taco (5.11a)
By: Greaser When: Mar 31, 2004

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Comments: "A few of the holds have questionable origins". What, are they bastards, or were they made in china or smuggeled in from cuba with a bunch of cigars.

No, they are not chipped. There are only 4 or 5 routes out of the 50 or so there that are chipped. Four are on the clock tower and one is up the hill above this climb. Some agressive cleaning on the owl prow (I think).

Location: Colorado : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Promised Road (5.11+)
By: Greaser When: Jan 30, 2004

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Comments: Careful there, Bob, the anti's will start huddling up.

By the way, congrats on Philly doing better than the Chiefs.

Maybe next year....

Location: Colorado : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Greaser When: Dec 11, 2003

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Comments: ...Good send Greg, this is harder than some of the 13a's in [Rifle] (for me). If I can't redneck it, I [probably] can't do it.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Greaser When: Dec 10, 2003

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Comments: On a more serious note: I've seen and heard a lot of close calls at this lot.

Last time, A biker about hit someone leaving the parking lot. He had his bike sideways to avoid the person pulling out, swerved into the oncoming lane and about got creamed.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall
By: Greaser When: Nov 18, 2003

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Comments: ....Anyone climb at the West Bank anymore? Great stuff. It is just south of Micky Mouse.

Oh [yeah], no matter how you go to Mickey [Mouse], you have to get close to the tracks. [Locomotive] Breath is right on the tracks...

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Dynamometer (5.12c)
By: Greaser When: Nov 12, 2003

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Comments: Thanks for the correction, Tom.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Universal Crag : Palm Pilot (5.13d)
By: Greaser When: Nov 3, 2003

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Comments: Having climbed a few of Jimmy's easier routes (.12b,.12c, etc), I would say that he does not give soft ratings, period.

Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Greaser When: Oct 29, 2003

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Comments: "Greazer does the community a favor by creating routes on road cuts".

I don't put up routes. I only climb them.

I asked the question because it seems that S.P. is a focal point for the issue. There are only a few chipped holds on even fewer routes. As with any area some routes are good and some are not. One of the best routes I have done in boulder canyon is there (American beauty). It's like "I won't eat beets but will eat the mashed potatos and gravy and roast beef next to them, on the same... more >>

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