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Member Since: May 15, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Evan Deis
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Point Rank: # 4,561
Total Points: 93

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has Evan Deis been climbing?










Contributions


All 232 | Routes 5 | Areas 1 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 56 | Posts 18 | Stars 105 | Ratings 30
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Arizona : Northern Arizona : Navajolands : Cleopatra's Needle Area : Venus Needle, East Face (5.10- A1-2 PG13) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 5, 2017

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Comments: That's an awesome photo.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Culvert Canyon : Golden Nugget Spire (aka Ha...
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: Do you mean that neither of those names come from the FA?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : The Sorcerer : The Sorcerer (5.11d)
By: Evan Deis When: Apr 4, 2017

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Comments: P3 is a nice squeeze chimney like Charlie Sheen a good father figure. Single rack is good. (2x) 5+6. I also recommend 2-3 tips sized pieces. I had 1x purple TCU and wish I'd had more. This will help backup an old leaper at the start of p3.

'Big thanks to Dunn, Coyne and Wood for this wild and unique experience.
Another thanks to Shanti for the new anchors.

Also; It could be my imagination but I think this route deserves an S Rating.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Culvert Canyon : Golden Nugget Spire (aka Ha...
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: What does it mean? Aka hangnail? Which is it? FA party should name.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : River Road : Indian Chief : Talking Bull (5.7)
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 27, 2017

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Comments: Thanks. Edited.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Culvert Canyon : Gold Bar Tower : Au-Spice (5.10+ PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 24, 2017

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Comments: If anyone knows the FA details of this route please send them over and I will update the route description.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Desert Shield (5.11a C3) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 15, 2016

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Comments: Some things never change.


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Roof Ranch : Squat (5.12-)
By: Evan Deis When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Jay Anderson. Yep!


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Unaweep Canyon : Gateway Vicinity aka The We... : Gateway : ... : Banana Hammock (5.11)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Hey. Here are our notes from the FA. Glad you guys found the route! That roof is pretty nasty huh?
We had been calling this formation The Fruit basket. There's a coffee table book that the owner of the hotel put out. He calls the formation Triton. Where did you find the brighams name?
Sorry for the rough notes. We had planned to clean them up before the write-up.

Banana Hammock
5.11, or 5.10 C1, 3P
F/A 11/2013 Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
Whereabouts: The route climbs the South-eas... more >>


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Evan's Overlook : Broke Dick (5.10- PG13)
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 10, 2016

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Comments: That may be Tony, but if I call it 5.11 my Vedauvoo friends will stop calling me. It's nasty dirty OW and YDS doesn't apply very well.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Happy Turk Hoodoo : The Happy Turk (5.8 C1) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Mar 3, 2016

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Comments: That's a fine job.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Echo Pinnacle : Free Window Route (5.11a) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Feb 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Andrew


Location: Utah : Moab Area : 191 South : Joe Wilson Canyon : Feeding the Rat (5.7 C2 PG13) : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 3, 2015

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Comments: That #3 looks pretty nasty!


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : Offwidth City : The Mayor (5.11d)
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 20, 2015

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Comments: Dang


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Master Blaster : Trip Master Monkey (5.12)
By: Evan Deis When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: Dang.


Location: Colorado : Grand Junction Area : Rough Canyon : Tabeguache Tower (5.9+ A1 R)
By: Evan Deis When: Jan 2, 2015

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Comments: A beak ladder? It seems to me that if one drills a hole, he should install a bolt. What is the thinking here?


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Sari : East Face (5.6 A3)
By: Evan Deis When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: The route does not end at the ledge with anchors. One can traverse around the back side and top out the summit block. Then downclimb the block to the anchors.
This is a clean aid tower! Leave your bongs in the car.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : CU Campus : Engineering Center : Dihedral (5.11- V2)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 13, 2014

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Comments: Cool thanks for the info, BC!


Location: Wyoming : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Whipping Boy (5.11c)
By: Evan Deis When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: Excellent climb. Not nice. It is possible to get a tipped out #6 before committing to the crux (this is your first pro if you've soloed the chimney). A second large piece would be nice to have.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Gill Crack (5.12a)
By: Evan Deis When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: As a not-5.12 climber, I can say that this thing hurts. Lots of potential to kick your belayer in the face, as it is hard from the moment you leave the ground.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: Yep. If you came here to do ancient art... don't do this. Else, pretty sexy.


Location: Colorado : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Vampire Rock : The Good, The Bad, and The ... (5.12a)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Rule #1. Sorry.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : River Tower : The Flow (5.8 C1)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: The book gives this route 5.8 C2+. I didn't lead the first pitch but it seemed, to me, to be pretty damn contrived for C1.

Edit per Jeremy: Sand-Bagged.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Great Googly Moogly : Great Googly Moogly (5.10+)
By: Evan Deis When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: This thing is really good. It's no 5.10 though, and can be done with little or no O/W technique. Solid rock for the business up top, the bottom is a fisher though.


Location: Colorado : Eldo reopening : Post : Photo
By: Evan Deis When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Looks like a new arch to climb on in Eldorado.


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