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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 31 mins ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 164
Total Points: 3,104

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3051 | Routes 256 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 320 | Posts 150 | Stars 1251 | Ratings 995
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Questar (5.11 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 9, 2010

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Comments: I trashed Josh's rope when I fell trying to clean gear while on the roof traverse on the crux pitch. If following this pitch, it's probably best to move all the way out to the stance on the prow, then lean back to deal with the pro. If leading this pitch- don't blow it before getting gear in, or you'll fall on your belayer. We cut 12' off the end of the rope at the next belay as a result.

Re: 1/4" bolts. The bolt on p1, Josh Smith replaced a year ago. The bolts on p2 are 1/4" but the climbi... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Bolting Barbie (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: My thoughts on El Rito climbs at approx. this grade:
Peach Cobbler (11c) is harder than BB in my opinion.
El Beerto (11c), Walking the Plank (11c) and a number of other 11c's seem slightly easier.
Jug-or-Naut (11b) and Booty/Longjohn (11b) seem significantly easier.
There aren't many other 11d's to compare. Procrastination (11d/12a) seems harder but is less continuous, and is painful or has a hard clip for me. Stroke Me (11d/12a) is harder, and climbs similarl... more >>


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : MF (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: If you do the 2nd pitch, a 2 rope rappel makes for the easiest descent. (There is a somewhat scary intermediate anchor on Birdie Party that might allow for 2 raps with a single rope, or with more effort than its worth you can get to the MF p1 anchor.)

2nd pitch is worth climbing too.


Location: New York : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: George Perkins When: May 19, 2010

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Comments: It seemed like it would make sense to combine p1 & the first part of p2, belaying at the 2-bolt anchor (above Roseland?); then a 2nd pitch to the top from there.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Guillotine (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: This climb is probably not where shown in the "Taos Rock" photo; it should be to the right of the line. It's not a big deal; most of this portion of cliff is 5.5-5.6 by any route.

There's a 2-bolt belay station on a good ledge 60m up (not shown on the topo).


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Traditional Area : Chile Verde (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 9, 2010

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Comments: The 'correct' line for pitch 1 is probably not where shown in Taos Rock. It should be to the right, where #7 is. Since both books adopted Clarks' names, probably that resource is most accurate. Not that it's a big deal- it's all mostly 5.4-5.6 with intermittent pro.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpentine Crack (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 25, 2010

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Comments: The crux is on the 2nd pitch, which is short. If you climb only to the anchor, and rap off, you miss the crux, but it is still a fun climb; and sets up one of the better beginner toprope climbs at TP. Watch the ends & extend the upper anchor with cordelette if toproping like this with a 60m rope. Better with a 70m, or belay from the anchor. Don't drop someone using a rope that's too short.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Middle Rock : Unknown (5.8- R)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 18, 2010

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Comments: (Edited after climbing this in 2012)
In ~2010, this climb was bolted, it now has 2 bolts protecting its crux, and a 2-bolt anchor. I do not feel it is run-out on anything harder than 5.2. You still may want a light rack for the headwall.

A 60m rope does not reach from dirt-to-anchor-to-dirt, but works to lower to the easy slab at the start that some people won't find it at all scary to downclimb from (20' up?)


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : Runway (Lower Tier) : Flight Simulator (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 12, 2010

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Comments: A 70m rope is recommended (or trail a 2nd rope). (A 60m rope is probably too short if you lower through the draws; it might reach if you rappel or unclip the draws as you lower?)

Nice new climb. Still a little bit of flaky stuff coming off like any new climb here, but super fun cruxes each requiring different tricks to get through.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Holy Wall (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 5, 2010

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Comments: Slightly easier if you use the crack to the left at the first crux (2nd to 3rd bolt), or a foot on the face left of that crack. One book says this reduces the rating to 5.9, though I think it's still probably 5.10- overall considering the pump at the sequency upper crux.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Apple Cobbler (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.

Obviously if you step around the arete to the slab on its right, you can get no-hands rests, which reduces th... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.

Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: This climb was bolted by the team of Tom McFarlane, Brian Riepe, Chris Pollard, and Peter Gram, according to Peter.
The last 2 bolts have been replaced recently. Thank Jason if you see him.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments:
Daniel Trugman wrote:
Are the bolts relatively new or of the old 1/4 inch variety?
All bolts on this route are fairly new (3/8") and no cause for concern. The guidebooks warn people about old bolts at Questa in general, but that is really a non-issue on most climbs here, though a few old bolts are still around.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Scrambled (aka Bob's Route) (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: In Bob Kamp's tribute route database it notes that Kamps climbed what was likely this route in 1993, and referred to it as "Bob's Route". I'm not sure which Bob bolted this line, though; at least 2 people with that name have put up climbs at WR (D'Antonio, Steuwe, ??).


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Over Easy (aka Goldilocks &... (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: This climb was called 'Goldilocks & the 3 Bears' at one of the Meltdown comps, although it's not clear that they knew the "real" name. I don't remember any of the other names used for 'Unknowns' on this buttress.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: I found an in-progress guide, which I used to add names to some of the unknown sport climbs. Definitely correct if there are mistakes/add'l info, especially as it could be a while until I get down here again.
enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts...
It doesn't have Vaino's new routes, or old lines delineated, so it's not all that helpful.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2009

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Comments: I've redpointed it. I think 12a is consistent with White Rock 12a's- but there's quite a range of how hard different White Rock 12a's seem! Admittedly I usually use the crack before clipping the 1st bolt, which seems like the more sensible thing to do, sometimes I'll clip it from the crack, then start over from the ledge, which adds 2 moves of 10+ crimping to the beginning.

I would rank the 5.12-... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. T... : The Skipper Too (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.

The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack s... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : The Trough (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).

Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probab... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009

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Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Top Hat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

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Comments: There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.


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