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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 19 mins ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,082

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2990 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 310 | Posts 127 | Stars 1237 | Ratings 982
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Apple Cobbler (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 4, 2010

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Comments: The guides suggest this is 10c if you stay off the right side of the arete. A lot of the best holds in the upper half, and the last bolt, are basically on the arete itself, and it's pretty tempting to reach around the corner farther. It's super contrived and significantly harder than 10c in my opinion if you force yourself to stay left, and avoid all the possibly-cheating arete holds.

Obviously if you step around the arete to the slab on its right, you can get no-hands rests, which reduces th... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.

Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Wailing Banshees (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 2, 2010

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Comments: This climb was bolted by the team of Tom McFarlane, Brian Riepe, Chris Pollard, and Peter Gram, according to Peter.
The last 2 bolts have been replaced recently. Thank Jason if you see him.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 7, 2010

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Comments:
Daniel Trugman wrote:
Are the bolts relatively new or of the old 1/4 inch variety?
All bolts on this route are fairly new (3/8") and no cause for concern. The guidebooks warn people about old bolts at Questa in general, but that is really a non-issue on most climbs here, though a few old bolts are still around.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Scrambled (aka Bob's Route) (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: In Bob Kamp's tribute route database it notes that Kamps climbed what was likely this route in 1993, and referred to it as "Bob's Route". I'm not sure which Bob bolted this line, though; at least 2 people with that name have put up climbs at WR (D'Antonio, Steuwe, ??).


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : Lower Buttress : Over Easy (aka Goldilocks &... (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: This climb was called 'Goldilocks & the 3 Bears' at one of the Meltdown comps, although it's not clear that they knew the "real" name. I don't remember any of the other names used for 'Unknowns' on this buttress.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Las Hermanas
By: George Perkins When: Jan 1, 2010

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Comments: I found an in-progress guide, which I used to add names to some of the unknown sport climbs. Definitely correct if there are mistakes/add'l info, especially as it could be a while until I get down here again.
enchantedtower.com/PrintDrafts...
It doesn't have Vaino's new routes, or old lines delineated, so it's not all that helpful.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant F... (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 22, 2009

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Comments: I've redpointed it. I think 12a is consistent with White Rock 12a's- but there's quite a range of how hard different White Rock 12a's seem! Admittedly I usually use the crack before clipping the 1st bolt, which seems like the more sensible thing to do, sometimes I'll clip it from the crack, then start over from the ledge, which adds 2 moves of 10+ crimping to the beginning.

I would rank the 5.12-... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Gilligan's Island (a.k.a. T... : The Skipper Too (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: This crack seemed easy for 5.8: its published rating; but may be on the hard side of 5.6, especially for those who haven't climbed cracks. The suggested double set of camalots is too much to carry up here for a 40' climb for all but the newest leaders. Because I don't have anything to add to it, I'll stay out of the discussion about the name (or lack thereof...) of this crack.

The anchor appeared to have chains and be just fine for rappelling- however, I downclimbed the next crack s... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : The Trough (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 28, 2009

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Comments: Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).

Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probab... more >>


Location: Nevada : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Jet Stream Wall
By: George Perkins When: Nov 16, 2009

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Comments: Though the approach described above up the Olive Oil descent gully is no doubt faster, it's also reasonable to get to/from this wall using the 3rd class gully down to its right, from the Challenger Wall/Adventure Punks area.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall Area : Pie In Your Eye (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 23, 2009

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Comments: Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009

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Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009

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Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Top Hat (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

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Comments: There is an independent anchor for this climb, 4' up and right of the "Unnamed Left" anchor, which probably makes it a little bit easier to clean but it really doesn't make any difference which anchor you use.

I added the FA info to this route and "Unnamed Right", which someone told me, but wasn't 100% sure about it, so correct me if I'm wrong.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Eagle Canyon : Racist Fantasy (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 30, 2009

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Comments: We replaced the disintegrating webbing anchor with links+biners, but chains would definitely be a further improvement.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Mexican Breakfast Formation : Tarantula (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 26, 2009

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Comments: Thanks, John. It felt insecure compared to other 5.10b's in the Sandias, following what I was pretty sure Sandia Rock said was the easier way to go. Nice climb certainly.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall
By: George Perkins When: Aug 9, 2009

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Comments: The climb left of Grendal is a fairly new climb Josh put up this summer, probably in the lower 5.10 range. Sorry to hear about the loose bolts- that surprises me, and scares me a little bit.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Cherry Pickin' (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 4, 2009

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Comments: A flake at the upper crux has broken off, making this climb harder than it used to be.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : Monster Wall : Cyclops (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: You can also start up Werepig (the next climb to the right) for 3 bolts, then move left to Cyclops for upper half, for a slightly easier (~5.11b) variation to these climbs, bypassing Cyclop's small pocket crux.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras
By: George Perkins When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: It's tough to feel good when climbing at your limit over 30+ year old rusty 1/4" bolts.

Also, it's important to remember that:
On most climbs at TP, and nearly all of those 5.10 or under, the fixed gear and bolts are in great condition and trustworthy,
despite the reputation this area has unfortunately gained over the years. First time visitors, and climbers staying on 5.10 or easier climbs, should not be discouraged from coming here, and should not worry about bolts.

Here's my take o... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock : Serpent Face (5.10c PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 19, 2009

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Comments: Re: "Needs a facelift (three years ago)."
All the bolts looked good on this climb today, and seemed ok when I led it last year. It's fine now, not sure when it was upgraded or by whom (thanks by the way). Edit: heard rumors Taos climbers upgraded these bolts a while ago. Thanks guys.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Napoleon's Angst (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 16, 2009

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Comments: The first bolt is still missing its hanger, but skipping it is not too scary.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Gridlock (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Redline" in Taos Rock.
I didn't see a need to step around to the arete, a lieback from a crack to the right to a big reach and I could just barely clip the chains without any scary/committing moves, felt 5.10 to me.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Ed Woody : Redline (5.11a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2009

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Comments: This climb is erroneously(?) called "Gridlock" in Taos Rock.


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