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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,082

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 2991 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 308 | Posts 126 | Stars 1239 | Ratings 984
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Icarus (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: Icarus is the most obvious & straight-up line of the 3 climbs sharing its start. The first pitch is high quality, 105', and a good warm-up for the Solar Cave climbs. You can rappel from the pitch 1 anchors with a single 60m rope, but it might not reach if lowering through the draws. A 70m would work.

I didn't try the 2nd pitch because I thought I might not be able to get down with a single 60m rope, based on the length listed. But it looks shorter than p1 in the photos & bolt count, so pleas... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Cholla Wall (5.10a/b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 17, 2012

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Comments: Though I think more people should be open-minded to leading Cholla Wall because it is pretty proud/memorable, I was definitely intimidated prior to doing so. Here's the warnings:
  • Don't fall at the start (1st crux). It's a boulder problem before you get your first pro.
  • Don't fall at the top (2nd crux). I've heard of 2 big falls from up there, and the gear in the highest pocket is tricky and perhaps not fully trustworthy.
  • Don't try to onsight Cholla Wall if 5.10 is hard for you, or if you'r...
 more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: I think the 4th bolt is in the ideal place if you clip it off the 1st jug after the crux; if it was much lower you would probably just clip it off the same holds used to clip the 3rd bolt, which is at waist level at that time and takes minimal effort. The best beta through this section is to do the crux move left first, bump the left to the jug, and clip off that, which seems reasonable once you get past thinking about the boulder behind you to the right. It's sort of tempting to try... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Echo Canyon : Techweeny Buttress : Crankenstein (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 23, 2012

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Comments: In April 2012, 3 bolts were 1/4" (one of them was the last bolt a few feet right of the anchor, which isn't as important as the others); the other 4 were bigger. I think the crux was protected by a more modern bolt, but don't remember for sure.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Tendon Bendin' (5.12b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 8, 2012

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Comments: This climb's a tougher version of Crimp Chimp, steep and relentless with no distinct crux. Despite a scary 2nd clip off the smallest hold on the climb (consider stick-clipping this), and a demoralizing finish due to the difficulty of clipping the chains while pumped, this climb is great if you enjoy steep climbing. I'm not sure its much more tweaky or painful than other mid/upper-5.12s at the Dungeon.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Crimp Chimp (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 13, 2012

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Comments: Stickclip bolt 2 if 12a is hard for you, especially if you don't have the beta dialed. The technical crux (just before bolt 2) appears to be somewhat height/reach-dependent, and the 2nd clip can be dicey sometimes. Angle right after clipping the 3rd bolt to stay on Crimp Chimp, which starts what is generally the redpoint crux. Although most find it a bit more difficult than the other popular 12-'s, Against Nature and Moat Jump, strong people who regularly climb steep stuff ma... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Gangland (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 29, 2012

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Comments: 2 useful holds were recently broken off at the upper (slab) crux at the 2nd-to-last bolt, making the climb somewhat harder (edited 9/2014, as a 2nd hold just broke recently)

Other beta:
This is another one at the Dungeon on which you don't want to blow it before clipping the 2nd bolt, and it's fairly sequency to get there, so one may want to stick-clip b2 if you don't feel confident up to that point.

The 1st crux clip (b4) is considerably easier if a draw (long is better) is already hanging.

... more >>


Location: Colorado : Diamond : Post : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Jun 26, 2012

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Comments: Great photo of us!!!!

I am unknown green guy. My partner, unknown red guy, is Lee H.from Colo. Spgs.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : John Dunn Bridge Area : The New New Buffalo
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage has more beta on this area:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Comales Canyon : Water Wall and Lower Areas : Gothic Pillar (5.6)
By: George Perkins When: May 18, 2012

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Comments: Has this climb been bolted as a sport climb?
(I received an email asking that question, but I haven't been to Comales recently.)


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Voyage of the Beagle (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: Hi Amy, Nice photos! I'm unknown guy in green. I was climbing with Chris from Los Alamos (unknown guy in red). Sorry we missed you.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Texas Canyon : Texas Tower
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: The available descent info on Texas Tower is a bit vague, or the descent is not obvious. Perhaps that adds to the experience.

When Josh S. and I climbed this in 4/09, we missed the 2nd rap station, left our own gear somewhere on the east face, but 1 rap later eventually joined up with the bolted anchors of the East Face route.

I thought maybe we were just chumps, but it looks like we weren't the only ones to get confused on the rappels, as I saw Kalous and Thesenga's trip report: ttp://www.t... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : No Exit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: Admittedly, I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but the crux boulder problem with the mono-to-mono move culminating with the throw at the end, is really fun and is out of character for White Rock. I'll agree that the lower half sucks (especially when its dirty), and also agree it seems hard for the grade to me as well (harder than Face Off and the popular 12a's at BONP), though perhaps it's j... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : Y - North Side : Open Book (5.9-)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 9, 2012

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Comments: This is one of the more varied and interesting entry-level cracks at the Y (or all of White Rock), I agree.

Many people seem to get frustrated with this climb, especially the start. Even though it's nominally rated only 5.8+, people with little experience on cracks seem to have troubles. (It might be a little tougher for short people, or those with smaller hands/fingers.) I guess that is what I was hinting at when I wrote the description.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Amphitheater : AMS (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 29, 2011

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Comments: Other than Pogue's Arete, this is the most overhanging 5.11 I've climbed in NM.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Sardonic Smile (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 14, 2011

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Comments: Don't be too put off by the above description- dirty holds aren't too much of an issue (but maybe my standards are low or maybe it's seen recent traffic?). It's an aesthetic face, isn't contrivedly close to cracks, and isn't heinously sharp like many harder routes at WR. For these reasons, I think this is my favorite of those on the right side of this crag. I think the above beta may not be the best: I started left of the first bolt.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: George Perkins When: May 15, 2011

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Comments: FA info from Hill's guide:
Emerald Hiway (= Emerald Road?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Sapphire: Gillis-Rix, 6/85
Emerald City: Hicks-Lewis, '86
Revenge of the Elderly: Holcomb-Riley 5/87
Surf's Up: Leonard-Benyak, 5/88

Seems possible Emerald City was still unclimbed when you were on Emerald Road in '86, with that and Sapphire to its right being the only 2 established lines. (Emerald City being climbed later, sharing the 1st pitch with Emerald Road, with the 2nd pitch following a seam between the two rou... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada : Huevos Verdes (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 4, 2011

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Comments: The 5.12b grade seems more accurate, without using the cracks, on this contrived climb.
Additional gear might not really be needed for most 5.11/5.12 climbers; it's about 30' of 5.7 to the first bolt.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : 5.8 Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 28, 2011

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Comments: I didn't try to sell anyone on this climb.

I guess I meant: it has the feel of a climb harder than 5.8, and the pro at the crux is below you, small, or weird. Maybe it's the gear or the crumbly rock, but the crux section looks improbable and you stare at it for a while, then you actually commit to it, and it's not too bad. Just my impression. I'd say it's harder than Headwall Right Crack, or Cholla Crack, but easier than Holy Crack.

Was the stopper I ret... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Squeeze Chimney (5.8 PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 22, 2011

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Comments: There are 2 crack climbs right of Bosker Boozeroos. Both of these cracks have sections of wide crack near their start.
The 1st crack just right of Boozeroos is an open book, about 5.8, not listed in the guides. This would be between #1 and #2 in the Jett/Samet topo below.
The 2nd crack to the right is the 5.10+ climb marked as "Squeeze Chimney 5.10+" in the guidebooks. It is a splitter slot-to-smaller-crack on the smooth face right of the corner. This crack angles left to the co... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Sewer Crag : Hey, Is There Anybody In Th... (5.11d PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 28, 2010

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Comments: Don't stay off this one just because you didn't bring gear. It's 15' of super easy choss to one ~5.8 move to clip the first bolt, but the rock is crumbly and you don't want to fall so tread carefully.

The rest of the climb is really good, with good rock, & quite steep for White Rock.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Way Beyond Zebra (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2010

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Comments: If you continue to the 2nd anchor, you get a few more interesting moves, the guidebook says doing so is the difference between 11a and 11b. The rope drag when TRing/lowering off the high anchor is annoying though. My assumption is that the lower anchor was added after the climb was initially bolted to alleviate this, which resulted in the last bolt being quite close to the (lower) anchor.

I'd agree that stemming or using the crack to the right would make it less than 5.11.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : The Minotaur : The Megamahedral (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: We thought this climb was pretty good, definitely has its share of wide climbing but protectable enough with one or two big cams. The beta & topo in the new Supertopo guidebook seemed mostly right on.

I'm a little confused with the above description, seemed like we climbed something like:
P1: Start in sandy alcove, step right into wide crack, climb a right-facing corner to a bolted belay on a ledge for pitch 1 (180', 5.11-, some wideness);
P2: Right-facing corner with OW to hands ... more >>


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.9 C1)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 14, 2010

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Comments: This climb is more like 120'. You need 2 ropes to descend (or 2 rappels using the intermediate anchor should work).

The books say this climb goes free at 5.11, but the bolts on the crux bolt ladder section at the start are mostly old/scary and the free line isn't right in line with them.

Even though it's short, I wouldn't suggest climbing in Zion when wet or snowy to be a good idea.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : Muralla Grande : Out to Lunch (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 22, 2010

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Comments: Thanks for the advice and info John. Sounds like I will have to try going straight up next time. (Both times I'd been on this, the crux was exciting enough we were looking for the easiest way up after.)


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