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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 14 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 164
Total Points: 3,104

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3050 | Routes 256 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 320 | Posts 149 | Stars 1251 | Ratings 995
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Chip Tower : Stuffing Nuts (5.9 C2 R)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 31, 2016

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Comments: Here's what Josh S. and I experienced on Chip Tower last week, climbing the route in "mostly free climbing mode" with no aid gear. (Mostly similar to that described in Mike A's trip report from 11 years ago, linked above.)
  • Pitch 1: A little chossy, but what did you expect?
  • Pitch 2: Splitter 5.11 (or C1) mostly hands and thin hands up to the roof (great climbing but still needs to clean up). When the crack thins, do 2 short...
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Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Hurt Me Not (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 17, 2016

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Comments: The FA, as listed in the old book, is "Gramont ?". He died in 1998.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: Aaron, I think you've got "Voyage of the Beagle" & "Hominid" switched?


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : The Back Rocks
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Hi Brett,
There is a route list to this area in an article Cam Burns wrote in the early 90s. Cam posts on MP as Camster (Rhymes with Hamster). It has a photo/topo, but my copy is too darkened to make good use of the photo, but I've uploaded it anyway (If someone puts up a cleaner one, or complains about copyright stuff, I'll take it down). Norbert Ensslin or some others in the LA Mountaineers probably also has a version.

Lighthouse Tower is obvious when you'... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: Recommend a #4 (or 2 of these for a 5.8/5.9 leader) on p2.

On the raps, if rapping the face itself back to the start:
Note the Too Fast topo has a couple minor errors which caused us some confusion. From the p3 ledge, it is ~100' to the 2 bolt anchor atop Days p2. It is ~130' to the p2 anchor on Magnas Veritas (our single 70m didn't reach on that rappel), so use 2 ropes f... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Buttress Fly (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: The proper, original route may have been 2 bolts + gear, but if you don't have gear it's not unreasonable to finish on either climb to the left or the right at the top now.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: My head/helmet got stuck in the slot near the top and I wasn't persistent enough to figure out how to squeeze through- but climbing on the featured outside wasn't too bad. I was somewhat runout above my #5 (didn't have a #6), but may have missed TCU placements (I didn't place any tiny cams on the whole climb).
The loose rock wasn't too bad, though not as clean as the more popular clim... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Moondog (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Though not especially incredible, this is a cleaner way to get to the alcove and the next tier than p1 of Full Monty.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Pumping Harry (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Harry: I'd be happy to update this page with the real name if you let me know what it is. I didn't add the cutesy name posted above, btw, but "unknown" isn't that great a name either. I don't have any qualms about a "real name" being used, even if not from the FA.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Xena: Warrior Princess (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Someone moved the 2nd bolt to a better location in the last few weeks; the clip is no longer weird.


Location: New Mexico
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments:
d. hall wrote:
Just moved to Albuquerque from baltimore. Wondering what would be a good climbing guide book to pick up. Is the Falcon guide inclusive and up to date enough?
Yes, Falcon's Rock Climbing: NM is the best first option for an ABQ-based climber. Other guides (especially Jemez Rock; and maybe Sandia Rock if you like trad; and Taos Rock- though a bit farther away) cover some of the areas you&@POUN... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'll delete this. I... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: As I've been looking for mountain climbs to do recently, I'll suggest this page would be a bit more user-friendly with a bit more re-organization of sub-areas. I'll suggest the below as a start, similar to how its done in the 14er guides, but keeping individual Front Range areas separated.

1) Tenmile Range
----all currently listed areas
----Fletcher Peak to Atlantic Peak
----Pacific Peak
----Quandary Peak
2) Sawatch Range (needs a new... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Jagged Mountain : Normal Route (5.2)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Admittedly at risk of sandbagging someone with this, but anyway...

If you're wondering whether you should bring a rope and climbing gear, climbing shoes, etc., IMO if you climb 5.6 confidently, you ought to be okay without all that stuff. The cruxes are short (~20' at most) and IMO are reasonable to solo, up and down, for most dedicated, in shape, "rock climbers", assuming it's dry. For a comparison, I w... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : No Questa About It (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 20, 2016

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Comments: One can traverse in from the right and skip p1, and start with p2 (the steep 5.9 hands that goes to the arete- this is a good feature to pick out- I think if you identify this, the rest of the route-finding will come naturally).

Josh S. and I got as far as roping up for it a few years ago, but decided not to due to weather. (This was before the climb was posted, we didn't know the climb had already been done but should have assumed so. Cool to see what we would have gotten... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 5, 2016

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Comments: [At risk of coming across as a dick, but..] Perhaps you were off route? It's also listed at 5.6 in the guidebook and the SW mountaineers topo. The West Ridge of the Wedge (listed at 5.7 in the books) in the Organs felt harder to me. Admittedly, I've found most of the ~10 climbs I've done in the Organs to be hard at their respective grades, but I'm not local.

[In an effort to be helpful...] This climb is a magnet f... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : On Beyond Zebra (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: "On Beyond Zebra" is 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (bolt count in the books is off). No chains, but you can easily clean the anchor from the top while hiking out.

It's given an "R" for pro in some books, but that's obsolete info, as the 2nd bolt was added after the FA (and the FAist was involved in the process; and it was apparently rebolted as well). Now it is just minor runout on 5.8-i... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Beer Block : Village Cobbler (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 31, 2016

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Comments: With all respect for the idea of adding a permadraw to alleviate a challenging clip (which I do appreciate sometimes), if people are clipping that with a quickdraw, it seems to me like adding another bolt is a better solution. One of you folks with a drill ought to send Lance an email and put one in. Alternatively, take the permadraw down and let the climb just be one of those with a bit of a bite to it (there are some classic 5.11 sport climbs in NM with minor runouts / hard clips, so... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Windward Wall : Good Clean Fun (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Placed 2 pieces of pro: a yellow tcu at the start and a stopper near the top of p1, was glad I had a small rack.


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Squeeze My Cobbles (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: A good independent line, despite the allusion in the name.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Boy What Nice Fellows (5.11a PG13)
By: George Perkins When: May 14, 2016

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Comments: In Jemez Rock, "Boy What Nice Fellows" (11b, TR) is described as the face between "Squeeze Chimney and "Boy What Assholes", going right and joining "Assholes" at the top. The lower half of this TR problem likely shares terrain with the more recently bolted "Nice Guys Finish Last", but branches right mid-way up. This would put it to the right of "Nice Guys" in the left-to-right route list.

The face with the OW on it (described here) is "Squeeze Chimney" (5.10d).


Location: New Mexico : Upper Rio Puerco Valley : Cabezon Peak : Mad Hatter's Tea Party (5.5)
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: A few 5th class routes are on the S-Side of Cabezon, info:
See also SE Gully (Standard Route) page, some info in the MP forum and rockclimbing.com (links below)

mountainproject.com/v/cabezon-...
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Devil's Throne
By: George Perkins When: May 4, 2016

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Comments: Aaron Miller showed me a couple of lines that he had climbed here maybe 15 yrs ago, on the bigger formation on the S side of Waldo Canyon Rd. (Devils Throne). As I remember, a 10+(?) crack/dihedral that looked like the cleanest and best line at the crag (has anchors, noteworthy as Aaron's first FA in New Mexico) and another one that he said wasn't as good, possibly others too. If you're contemplating climbing in this area, consider asking him for more details, maybe he'll post with the names a... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall (aka... : Duran Duran (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Didn't try the 5.12a extension, but I felt the 5.11c to the mid-anchor was well worth doing in its own right (as good as Master Ganj). Rock quality seemed good enough, but would recommend stick clipping b1.

Dirt Wall hosts a handful of good 5.11s that stop at the mid-anchors; check out the list on the Dirt Wall page for details.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Filet de Papillon Wall (aka... : Bob Marley Meets Master Gan... (5.11b)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: I clipped 7 bolts today (no extension, just to the ledge), so I think a few were more recently added.


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