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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3397 | Routes 256 | Areas 24 | Approach Trails | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 341 | Posts 180 | Stars 1270 | Ratings 1270
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Gilman Tunnels
By: George Perkins When: Aug 15, 2017

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Comments: Gilman Tunnels has reopened. Use caution and good judgment on the climbs on the road side, looks as though the construction team did some "cleaning".
jemezpost.com/2017/08/14/gilma...


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > The Overlook > South/East side > Thief in Time (5.12d)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 9, 2017

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Comments: Devin and I led this tonight, though we didn't send, our take was more favorable than that of the above posters. I'd do it again:
-Few will bother because it needs trad gear and is pretty hard, but if you've sent the other 11s & 12s on this side of the Overlook, do consider going up there.
-It's 5 bolts (not 6 as listed in the book) to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains, but easy to grab your draws from the top). And, you will probably place 2-3 cams from #0.75 camalot to #3 camalot (ex... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > Echo Canyon > Yucca Flower Tower > Yucca Flower Tower (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Aug 6, 2017

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Comments: Climbed YFT for the 3rd or 4th time recently. Regarding pitch 2:
-I was able to link it with pitch 3, going from the bolted belay atop p1 to the top of Yucca Flower Tower with a 60m rope and about 10' to spare, but placed little gear on the easy terrain at the top of this pitch.
-Not sure what to make of the coffin-lid block (mentioned above). I climbed very carefully and delicately past it, and you pretty much have to use it to some extent. If it pulled out unexpectedly, it would be disastr... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Comales Canyon > Water Wall and Lower Areas > Tranquilo (5.7)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 25, 2017

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Comments: Thank you for soliciting input from the broader climbing community before changing an established climb, and for looking for opinions beyond your own (and those of your like-minded crew). Not everyone does that, but all other climbers who do the climb are affected by it. Although I've climbed on Water Wall, I haven't done this one, and will withhold any opinion, as I personally wouldn't care either way (when I climb on this wall next, I'll almost for sure have trad gear with me... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area > In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Jason. Sounds like I just need to find better beta at the start.

I'll surely be back, in addition to having really unique features, this climb sets up another great kids' rope swing (as good as Pegasus, those at the Dungeon, and Rad Wall).


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Love Shack Area > In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it?

Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should beware of and expec... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Gateway Rock > Forest (5.10b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: This climb's history regarding bolts (documented above), is unfortunately reflective of a general lack of respect and lack of communication by climbers with drills toward other climbers (other bolters, or gear climbers, past and present, and even other sport climbers).

These days, it's easy to track down the FA, send them an email, and post a note publicly here or on one of the NM climbers FB groups sharing your plan, before you change an existing climb (this is generic, not... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon, Upper > Chaos Crag > Mucho Jale (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Mark. Please don't take this as arguing..
Our gut feeling- trying to figure out the Duck Soup line, reading the Hill description and its photo with marked line, and based on the cleanliness and difficulty up to the roof (we encountered 5.10 climbing that had loose blocks (now cleaned) ~40' below the roof at the top of our pitch 1 and Duck Soup should be 5.7 up to the traverse)- is that Duck Soup exits the open book to the left significantly lower than the big roof, but we weren... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbing Areas > Northern Box areas > Waterfall Wall
By: George Perkins When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments:
Andrew B. Ellis wrote:
Does anyone know why these routes are no longer bolted for lead climbing? Is it an ethics issue, or did the hardware get old and just wasn't replaced?
In the guidebook, which you should buy, it says the FA that bolted the climbs initially removed the hardware so he could use it at Enchanted Tower. This was in the 80s.


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon, Upper > Chaos Crag > Duck Soup (5.10 R)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: For this and other climbs on the right side of Chaos Crag, it's probably simpler and preferable to not try to traverse the ridge over to the Edge of Chaos raps; rather, go off the back side (toward Torreon) as shown on the photo/topo (1 ~150' rappel, but might be able to make it work with a single rope and shenanigans).


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Fisher Towers > The Titan > Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 5, 2017

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Comments: As we weren't sure what to bring, due to too much available gear beta (here and in the books), I'll spray a little more.
-Didn't bring, didn't need: a hammer, pins, or stick clip
-Brought but didn't need: tricams, hooks, hexes, or ball nuts
-Didn't have, but they sound great: Totems
-Key on p2 and p3: offset cams & offset nuts (we had 1 set of each).
-Otherwise, just a typical trad free climbing rack
-I needed to free climb a little bit (~5.7-5.9ish for 2-3 moves at ... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... > Main Wall > Lower Tempest (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: Not to advocate for or against renaming climbs in the interest of political correctness...

We met the climber for whom the climbs' original name (Asian Whore) was named for today. Her husband helped Mike T. put up the route and named it. There's a funny story behind the name, which she was happy to tell us (we wouldn't have even thought to ask), and didn't seem offended by it. "City Girl" was named in a similar spirit. But it seems "the community" would pr... more >>


Location: New Mexico > El Rito > El Rito Sport Area > Rad Wall > Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: May 27, 2017

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Comments: Finally got on this today, and think it will be a fun project to work when I'm at El Rito.

Since Jean is asking for opinions, (and there seems to be a pattern of adding bolts to NM sport climbs in general recently), I'll suggest this one is appropriately bolted as it is and wouldn't benefit from moving/adding bolts. (My 2 climbing partners today who got on it agreed as well.) Please don't change our project until after we all send it.

You can use a big-ass stick clip and stick... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > Old New Place > Gulf Stream (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: I haven't quite figured out how to do it yet, but this is almost certainly the most well-protected 5.12 trad climb at White Rock (at least, at the popular cliffs).
Rack should go from small stuff up to #0.75s , with maybe 1 #1 Camalot at the very top, nothing bigger. (I placed 4 #0.75's, but it is probably is okay with less; also the 0.2 and 0.3 camalot size is pretty key for the hard sections).


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > Below The Old New Place > Ralph's Leisure Suit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 28, 2017

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Comments: The left anchor chain really gets in the way when trying to finish legitimately (no cracks). It's probably overall a better climb if you allow yourself use of cracks on either side at the end and appreciate it for being a decent, thin 11c face.


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > Below The Old New Place > Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 28, 2017

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Comments: I'd mostly avoided "Fat Boys" for its reputation for big moves and being so close to the crack, and because I remembered at one point being scared getting to the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd bolt, but I got after it again this spring and enjoyed it. Don't bother trying to fly- the dyno is silly- but the alternate beta may still be too reachy for short people. The steep, bouldery crux is atypical for White Rock, with a decent pump already building on the pocket pulling up to it. Though I... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Questa Dome > Questa Dome > Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: Yikes! 6 weeks ago, I fell from the lip (in a completely unexpected surprise fall), popping the cam I'd placed at the lip (which I was confident was bomber when I placed it), and the pin caught me just as I hit the slab. I think other good gear can be placed in this section, even without the pin-- back your gear up-- the weird angles the rope pulls on gear on the roof can cause it to misbehave.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Hallucinogen Roof (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: P1 can by bypassed to its right via 5.7 cracks, making this a good choice for a 5.10 climber.
The start of p2 goes up a L-facing corner on a slab with very small gear, if done directly. For better gear, climb the finger crack splitter 15' to the left, then hand-traverse the flake back right.
We'd stared at this roof a bunch when first climbing here, hoping the cracks exiting the roof would go, until Josh finally went and checked it out. But they are too thin- it won't go, thus the ... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Rufie (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: The annoyance of the easy "approach 1/2 pitch" through the bushes and choss is more than compensated for by the rad roofs up high.


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > The Overlook > South/East side > Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: At risk of opining on bolt ethics, here are the rumors I've heard regarding the 3rd bolt on Thorazine Dream:
-Prior to the 3rd bolt being put in, the climb was often led without bringing any trad gear (perhaps by mistake, out of laziness, lack of gear, or ego), instead running out that section of the climb. That section is easy up to the no-hands rest at the horizontal crack, but there are a couple of thin 5.10/10+ moves just before clipping the next bolt where falling would have been really ba... more >>


Location: Colorado > Pagosa Springs > Piedra River
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: What is the season for this area? Will it be pleasant (or accessible) in late March? Thx.


Location: New Mexico > Socorro Area > The Box Climbing Areas > Southern Box areas > Pocket Change Wall > Pocket Change (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: One of my favorite 2 or 3 climbs at Socorro. Though it appears intimidating at first, the runout with unexpected jugs at the top adds to the experience, rather than detracts from it.


Location: New Mexico > Las Cruces Area Climbing > Organ Mountains > The High Horns > The Tooth > Tooth or Consequences (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Climbed TrC again yesterday (my 3rd time?). Just as amazing as I remembered it being. With the runouts & exposure, it would be intimidating for a leader who's maxing at low-5.10. (I remember it kicking my butt and me wimping out on my 1st attempt on the Tooth quite a few years ago now, and I've heard of a couple other teams who've looked at the crux and said "no thanks".) A step up compared to nearby classic 5.10s like Endgame and Days of Future Passed at Cochise, or Mo... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Taos Area > Questa Dome
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments:
Skeeter aka richard wrote:
Are you allowed to place pins in this area
Yes, but they aren't needed or useful on established routes here.


Location: Utah > Moab Area > Island In The Sky > Chip Tower > Stuffing Nuts (5.9 C2 R)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 31, 2016

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Comments: Here's what Josh S. and I experienced on Chip Tower last week, climbing the route in "mostly free climbing mode" with no aid gear. (Mostly similar to that described in Mike A's trip report from 11 years ago, linked above.)
  • Pitch 1: A little chossy, but what did you expect?
  • Pitch 2: Splitter 5.11 (or C1) mostly hands and thin hands up to the roof (great climbing but still needs to clean up). When the crack thins, do 2 short tension traverse moves left off small nuts/TCUs (C2...
 more >>


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