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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
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George Perkins
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Total Points: 3,104

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3051 | Routes 256 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 320 | Posts 150 | Stars 1251 | Ratings 995
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains
By: George Perkins When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The approaches to various formations in the northern Sandias that used the North Crest Trail are closed, in the aftermath of the North Crest Fire.

This likely affects Pinnacle Valley, the Needle, the Shield (from the top, though all but the Knife Edge are currently closed anyway). See map in linked order:
fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUM...


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 17, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Jason. Sounds like I just need to find better beta at the start.

I'll surely be back, in addition to having really unique features, this climb sets up another great kids' rope swing (as good as Pegasus, those at the Dungeon, and Rad Wall).


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : In Your Face Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 15, 2017

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Comments: We found the climbing up to and just past the first bolt hard for the (12b) grade [feel free to use the "suggested grade" function... I know]. Maybe we missed something, but never having climbed it before today, I'm going with the theory that the broken hold mentioned above increased the grade? Jason, Jeffrey, have you gotten back on it?

Stick-clipped boulder problem (fun, hard V5?) to cool-featured, fun, but obviously fairly untrafficked 5.10. Belayers should beware of and expec... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : Forest (5.10b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: This climb's history regarding bolts (documented above), is unfortunately reflective of a general lack of respect and lack of communication by climbers with drills toward other climbers (other bolters, or gear climbers, past and present, and even other sport climbers).

These days, it's easy to track down the FA, send them an email, and post a note publicly here or on one of the NM climbers FB groups sharing your plan, before you change an existing climb (this is generic, not... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Mucho Jale (5.12b)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 11, 2017

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Comments: Thanks Mark. Please don't take this as arguing..
Our gut feeling- trying to figure out the Duck Soup line, reading the Hill description and its photo with marked line, and based on the cleanliness and difficulty up to the roof (we encountered 5.10 climbing that had loose blocks (now cleaned) ~40' below the roof at the top of our pitch 1 and Duck Soup should be 5.7 up to the traverse)- is that Duck Soup exits the open book to the left significantly lower than the big roof, but we weren... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : Waterfall Wall
By: George Perkins When: Jul 6, 2017

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Comments:
Andrew B. Ellis wrote:
Does anyone know why these routes are no longer bolted for lead climbing? Is it an ethics issue, or did the hardware get old and just wasn't replaced?
In the guidebook, which you should buy, it says the FA that bolted the climbs initially removed the hardware so he could use it at Enchanted Tower. This was in the 80s.


Location: New Mexico : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : Chaos Crag : Duck Soup (5.10 R)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 24, 2017

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Comments: For this and other climbs on the right side of Chaos Crag, it's probably simpler and preferable to not try to traverse the ridge over to the Edge of Chaos raps; rather, go off the back side (toward Torreon) as shown on the photo/topo (1 ~150' rappel, but might be able to make it work with a single rope and shenanigans).


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: George Perkins When: Jun 5, 2017

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Comments: As we weren't sure what to bring, due to too much available gear beta (here and in the books), I'll spray a little more.
-Didn't bring, didn't need: a hammer, pins, or stick clip
-Brought but didn't need: tricams, hooks, hexes, or ball nuts
-Didn't have, but they sound great: Totems
-Key on p2 and p3: offset cams & offset nuts (we had 1 set of each).
-Otherwise, just a typical trad free climbing rack
-I needed to free climb a little bit (~5.7-5.9ish for 2-3 moves at ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Lower Tempest (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: May 28, 2017

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Comments: Not to advocate for or against renaming climbs in the interest of political correctness...

We met the climber for whom the climbs' original name (Asian Whore) was named for today. Her husband helped Mike T. put up the route and named it. There's a funny story behind the name, which she was happy to tell us (we wouldn't have even thought to ask), and didn't seem offended by it. "City Girl" was named in a similar spirit. But it seems "the community" would pr... more >>


Location: New Mexico : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : Against All Cobbs (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: May 27, 2017

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Comments: Finally got on this today, and think it will be a fun project to work when I'm at El Rito.

Since Jean is asking for opinions, (and there seems to be a pattern of adding bolts to NM sport climbs in general recently), I'll suggest this one is appropriately bolted as it is and wouldn't benefit from moving/adding bolts. (My 2 climbing partners today who got on it agreed as well.) Please don't change our project until after we all send it.

You can use a big-ass stick clip and stick... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Gulf Stream (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: I haven't quite figured out how to do it yet, but this is almost certainly the most well-protected 5.12 trad climb at White Rock (at least, at the popular cliffs).
Rack should go from small stuff up to #0.75s , with maybe 1 #1 Camalot at the very top, nothing bigger. (I placed 4 #0.75's, but it is probably is okay with less; also the 0.2 and 0.3 camalot size is pretty key for the hard sections).


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : Sinewave (aka S Crack) (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: May 5, 2017

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Comments: There are birds in the left crack about half way up (where it opens to hand-size). Consider avoiding this one for a while. If you take the thinner right crack finish, you can avoid climbing directly through the nest, but you're still pretty close.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Ralph's Leisure Suit (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 28, 2017

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Comments: The left anchor chain really gets in the way when trying to finish legitimately (no cracks). It's probably overall a better climb if you allow yourself use of cracks on either side at the end and appreciate it for being a decent, thin 11c face.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 28, 2017

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Comments: I'd mostly avoided "Fat Boys" for its reputation for big moves and being so close to the crack, and because I remembered at one point being scared getting to the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd bolt, but I got after it again this spring and enjoyed it. Don't bother trying to fly- the dyno is silly- but the alternate beta may still be too reachy for short people. The steep, bouldery crux is atypical for White Rock, with a decent pump already ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 26, 2017

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Comments: Yikes! 6 weeks ago, I fell from the lip (in a completely unexpected surprise fall), popping the cam I'd placed at the lip (which I was confident was bomber when I placed it), and the pin caught me just as I hit the slab. I think other good gear can be placed in this section, even without the pin-- back your gear up-- the weird angles the rope pulls on gear on the roof can cause it to misbehave.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... : Gilman Tunnels
By: George Perkins When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Gilman Tunnels to Close Temporarily to Mitigate Rockfall Hazards

SANTA FE, NM – April 19, 2017 – For Immediate Release. The Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF) today announced that a half-mile segment of the road that passes through the Gilman Tunnels on the Jemez Ranger District will be closed to traffic to allow crews to remove loose rock and stabilize the rock cliffs around the tunnels.

“We apologize in advance for any inconvenience caused by our work on the Gilman Tunnels. But p... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Hallucinogen Roof (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: P1 can by bypassed to its right via 5.7 cracks, making this a good choice for a 5.10 climber.
The start of p2 goes up a L-facing corner on a slab with very small gear, if done directly. For better gear, climb the finger crack splitter 15' to the left, then hand-traverse the flake back right.
We'd stared at this roof a bunch when first climbing here, hoping the cracks exiting the roof would go, until Josh finally went and checked it out. But they are too ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Rufie (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: The annoyance of the easy "approach 1/2 pitch" through the bushes and choss is more than compensated for by the rad roofs up high.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: Angela- Good job on persevering with all the snow. Though I haven't done the Flatiron walkoff, my suspicion is if you can deal with postholing through the approach, you can deal with the walk-off, based on our experience on the Dome proper in early March of this year. It snowed heavily in late March, which no doubt covered the trail we broke.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Pueblo Canyon Areas : School Canyon : Homestead Bridge
By: George Perkins When: Apr 8, 2017

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Comments: These boulder problems are in Pueblo Canyon near the Homestead bridge. A shorter approach would be from the playground off Ridgeway.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: At risk of opining on bolt ethics, here are the rumors I've heard regarding the 3rd bolt on Thorazine Dream.
-Prior to the 3rd bolt being put in, the climb was often led without bringing any trad gear (perhaps by mistake, out of laziness, lack of gear, or ego), instead running out that section of the climb. That section is easy up to the no-hands rest at the horizontal crack, but there are a couple of thin 5.10/10+ moves just before clipping the next bolt where falling would ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: What is the season for this area? Will it be pleasant (or accessible) in late March? Thx.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Pocket Change Wall : Pocket Change (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: One of my favorite 2 or 3 climbs at Socorro. Though it appears intimidating at first, the runout with unexpected jugs at the top adds to the experience, rather than detracts from it.


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth or Consequences (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Climbed TrC again yesterday (my 3rd time?). Just as amazing as I remembered it being. With the runouts & exposure, it would be intimidating for a leader who's maxing at low-5.10. (I remember it kicking my butt and me wimping out on my 1st attempt on the Tooth quite a few years ago now, and I've heard of a couple other teams who've looked at the crux and said "no thanks".) A step up compared to nearby cl... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments:
Skeeter aka richard wrote:
Are you allowed to place pins in this area
Yes, but they aren't needed or useful on established routes here.


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