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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 196
Total Points: 3,130

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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All 3398 | Routes 256 | Areas 24 | Approach Trails | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 342 | Posts 180 | Stars 1270 | Ratings 1270
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Sun Devil Wall > Sun Devil (5.11b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: 4 days ago

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Comments: To stay on Sun Devil on p2, from the belay immediately step right of the wide crack (Sun Devil Crack) and climb the bolted face on/just right of the arete. The obvious line straight above the belay is 7th Sun. (A couple of my friends were recently confused.) See also the topo on the Sun Devil Wall page.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Leaning Tower > Mainliner (5.14a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 11, 2018

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Comments: Thanks for your reply, Jean. It's a beautiful climb and the videos and articles about it 15,20 years later are a testament to that. Hope to see you at the cliffs again this winter, George


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Leaning Tower > Mainliner (5.14a)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 11, 2018

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Comments: After seeing the 2 videos of this route, I wonder if the gear beta (TCUs needed at the top) posted here by the FA and in the 2 published guidebooks is still accurate (if not, should be updated). Looks like neither Eric nor Nat brought trad gear, and Cody's interview implies it was fully bolt-protected on his initial sport send (probable 2nd ascent, unless someone quietly did it prior) and that it clearly wouldn't have mattered to him if it wasn't fully bolted. Were bolts added after the FA and... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Squoze (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 3, 2018

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Comments: The crux is the bouldery start, moving into the corner at 10' up. You'll probably only have 1 cam in for this, so make sure it's good.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall > Barracuda (5.11+)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 3, 2018

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Comments: Bring a #4 camalot too.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall > Zozobra (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Jan 3, 2018

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Comments: 5 #1s is ideal for a 5.10 leader, if you want to sew it up without backcleaning or leapfrogging gear.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > The Sponge > Freeloader Friday (5.12a/b)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 30, 2017

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Comments: I was curious about something else at Las Conchas.. didn't find that.. Found this climb was listed in an old online guide (W. Wehner, ca. '97) as below: (3) I am Broccoli (5.12c, toprope). Toprope the center face of the boulder just left of Pumpin' Huecos.


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > Below The Old New Place > Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 18, 2017

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Comments: There's 2-3 different sequences to do the crux, but they all involve the same poor shallow 2-finger pockets. According to rumors, this climb was chipped/comfortized after the FA, making it slightly easier, but it's hard for me to see any "damage" on any of the holds through the crux sequence so I'm not so sure. Someone upgraded the hangers and replaced the 2nd(?) bolt (about a foot to the left) in recent years (doesn't change it).


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > White Rock > Below The Old New Place > Manic Nirvana (5.12)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 18, 2017

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Comments: I'd avoided this for a few years after getting completely shut down at the crux, but did it again recently and enjoyed it more than I expected. The crux is really cool, kind of reminds me of Monsterpiece's crux. It felt reachy to me and might be harder for shorter folks? With good beta, it never gets terribly painful or thin, and it doesn't climb as squeezed in between the cracks as it looks. My opinion is the very last move of Leisure Suit makes that route the hardest at the crag; it’s the o... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Eden Canyon > Eden Wall > ... > The Cruxifiction (5.12-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 10, 2017

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Comments: Very cool, tricky, and techy cruxes. This climb is great and probably the best line on this wall.


Location: New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Eden Canyon > Eden Wall > ... > Judas Tower (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 10, 2017

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Comments: Climbs somewhat bizarre, with fun sections but gives a feel of being always on the wrong side of the arete. Be open-minded to leaving the bolt line and trust that it will work out.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Easy Bake Alcove
By: George Perkins When: Dec 9, 2017

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Comments: Hadn't been here in a few years. These climbs have cleaned up quite well.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Retirement Wall > Extra Fiber (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 9, 2017

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Comments: I mostly climbed the crack, which has some loose blocks and bushes in it. Maybe I did it wrong. Seemed like it would be harder than 5.10 without using the crack.


Location: New Mexico > Jemez Mountains and Jemez V... > Las Conchas > Retirement Wall > Metamuscle (5.11c/d)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 9, 2017

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Comments: This has cleaned up nicely with traffic and isn't dirty any more. Tough crux, but one of the best 11+/12-'s in the Jemez. Climb it.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Ponderosa (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: Certainly you have my blessing to put a bolted anchor on this if you climb it. The tree we rapped off of burned, and there aren't very many climbs at this grade at the cliff. It might be better than the 1 star I give it.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Nuclear Winter (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: If someone wants to put an anchor on the top of p1, go ahead. My anchor on the small bushes burned away. This would make doable a 90', well-protected, 5.8 that would be one of the easiest climbs at the cliff. I climbed it twice, it was fairly non-descript but wasn't bad.

Re: pitch 2. The OW pillar was scary, not in a fun way, like the whole thing was going to break off, be cautious. After backing off the previous autumn, I bought a #5 just for this OW, then borrowed a #6. Maybe my memory ... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Unnamed 2 (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: If someone wants to climb the first pitch and put an anchor on it, go ahead (as far as I'm concerned). I doubt the pitch has been repeated since Josh and I first climbed it, it may be worth a second look and better cleaning.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall > Burnt Tree Corner (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: Feel free to put a bolted anchor on this and clean it up, if you'd like. It would probably see some traffic as one of the easier longer cracks at the wall.


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Frisky Widow (5.11) > Photo
By: George Perkins When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: "George's TR Bonus Problem"? Thanks, but I didn't climb this one. Josh did the direct right-hand crack/stemming problem on TR ("Straight Up Widowmaker"), I'm not sure who his partner for that was the first time he did it, though it might have been me. I never got very far on it, it's very thin. We weren't willing to climb up the right corner (or the left) when Josh first led Frisky Widow and upper Widowmaker in late 2010, because there was a car-size chockstone precariously wedged between the ... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Monkey Business (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2017

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Comments: (con't from 1st comment)
Earlier this summer, with Rika Beck and myself, Will Vining led it to the ledge and installed the high anchor, cleaning and aiding the final thin section on RPs and TCUs. This seemed a good crack for us to practice aid climbing for an upcoming wall, and to finally check out the top. We then TRed the entire route. Though the final stemming seam was hard for us (we max at 12- on gear), we felt it might go in cooler temperatures at 12+. Will and I were psyched, both about... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Main Cliff > Monkey Business (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2017

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Comments: edited to consolidate and after talk with Aaron and Will:

I attempted this crack and led it up to the seam (where the low anchor is now) with Calita & Josh, and possibly some others, in 2010 or early 2011, before the fire, I think it was the same day Josh did the FA of Monkey Spank. The seam was still filled with dirt and plants, and also clearly too hard for me then, so my partners encouraged me to come down and climb something else rather than continue aiding and cleaning. I didn’t put in... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... > Capulin Canyon > Upper Wall > Unknown (5.10)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 15, 2017

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Comments: Best 5.10 at Capulin?


Location: New Mexico > Albuquerque Area Climbing > Sandia Mountains > Chimney Canyon > Muralla Grande > The Second Coming (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 2, 2017

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Comments: We brought and used a #3 and #4 camalot (as very wet conditions yesterday morning caused us to adjust our plan and we happened to have them with us), so I'll suggest a 5.8 leader might appreciate having them too. I think we placed the #4 on every pitch.

This climb has a surprisingly high amount of loose rocks for being one of the most trafficked climbs in the Sandias. It's mostly avoidable, but be aware there may be other parties below you or hiking past the base of the climb. In genera... more >>


Location: New Mexico > Los Alamos & White Rock > The Dungeon > 45° Boulder > Beastmaster (5.12c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 9, 2017

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Comments: I've climbed-- and usually fallen on-- Beastmaster dozens of times over the years. Eating my words from my post from 5 years ago... Yesterday I hit the boulder for the first time, just with my foot, it wasn't bad (no injury, no worse than normal falls) but surprised me. After clipping b3, I fell from the bump-move to the jug after you stick the crux, with a light belayer who I still trust as being fully competent. Hadn't ever heard of anyone else even touching the boulder in a fall, including w... more >>


Location: Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Chiefshead Northeast Face > Cowboys and Indians (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 5, 2017

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Comments: Depending on conditions, getting to the start of the climb could be problematic without crampons, spikes, axe, or something to deal with the steep snowslope when it's still icy at dawn (significantly sketchier than getting to the N. Chimney on The Diamond in our combined memories). Because we're New Mexicans, Josh S. and I didn't have that stuff, and it wasn't going to happen for us in sneakers. So we started on "10 Little Indians" instead; this worked out nicely and ma... more >>


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