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Member Since: Apr 28, 2006
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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George Perkins
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Point Rank: # 162
Total Points: 3,082

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has George Perkins been climbing?










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All 2991 | Routes 255 | Areas 23 | Photos 6 | Page Improvements 50 | Comments 308 | Posts 126 | Stars 1239 | Ratings 984
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : Questa Dome : Question of Balance (5.11- PG13)
By: George Perkins When: 2 days ago

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Comments: Yikes! 6 weeks ago, I fell from the lip (in a completely unexpected surprise fall), popping the cam I'd placed at the lip (which I was confident was bomber when I placed it), and the pin caught me just as I hit the slab. I think other good gear can be placed in this section, even without the pin-- back your gear up-- the weird angles the rope pulls on gear on the roof can cause it to misbehave.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Gilman Tunnels
By: George Perkins When: Apr 20, 2017

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Comments: Gilman Tunnels to Close Temporarily to Mitigate Rockfall Hazards

SANTA FE, NM – April 19, 2017 – For Immediate Release. The Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF) today announced that a half-mile segment of the road that passes through the Gilman Tunnels on the Jemez Ranger District will be closed to traffic to allow crews to remove loose rock and stabilize the rock cliffs around the tunnels.

“We apologize in advance for any inconvenience caused by our work on the Gilman Tunnels. But p... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Hallucinogen Roof (5.11-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: P1 can by bypassed to its right via 5.7 cracks, making this a good choice for a 5.10 climber.
The start of p2 goes up a L-facing corner on a slab with very small gear, if done directly. For better gear, climb the finger crack splitter 15' to the left, then hand-traverse the flake back right.
We'd stared at this roof a bunch when first climbing here, hoping the cracks exiting the roof would go, until Josh finally went and checked it out. But they are too ... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Main Cliff : Rufie (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 17, 2017

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Comments: The annoyance of the easy "approach 1/2 pitch" through the bushes and choss is more than compensated for by the rad roofs up high.


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome : The Legs : Bear Mountain Picnic Massac... (5.8-)
By: George Perkins When: Apr 12, 2017

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Comments: Angela- Good job on persevering with all the snow. Though I haven't done the Flatiron walkoff, my suspicion is if you can deal with postholing through the approach, you can deal with the walk-off, based on our experience on the Dome proper in early March of this year. It snowed heavily in late March, which no doubt covered the trail we broke.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Aspen School Canyon
By: George Perkins When: Apr 8, 2017

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Comments: These boulder problems are in Pueblo Canyon near the Homestead bridge. A shorter approach would be from the playground off Ridgeway.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 31, 2017

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Comments: At risk of opining on bolt ethics, here are the rumors I've heard regarding the 3rd bolt on Thorazine Dream.
-Prior to the 3rd bolt being put in, the climb was often led without bringing any trad gear (perhaps by mistake, out of laziness, lack of gear, or ego), instead running out that section of the climb. That section is easy up to the no-hands rest at the horizontal crack, but there are a couple of thin 5.10/10+ moves just before clipping the next bolt where falling would ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Pagosa Springs : Piedra River
By: George Perkins When: Mar 16, 2017

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Comments: What is the season for this area? Will it be pleasant (or accessible) in late March? Thx.


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Pocket Change Wall : Pocket Change (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Mar 15, 2017

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Comments: One of my favorite 2 or 3 climbs at Socorro. Though it appears intimidating at first, the runout with unexpected jugs at the top adds to the experience, rather than detracts from it.


Location: New Mexico : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth or Consequences (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Feb 6, 2017

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Comments: Climbed TrC again yesterday (my 3rd time?). Just as amazing as I remembered it being. With the runouts & exposure, it would be intimidating for a leader who's maxing at low-5.10. (I remember it kicking my butt and me wimping out on my 1st attempt on the Tooth quite a few years ago now, and I've heard of a couple other teams who've looked at the crux and said "no thanks".) A step up compared to nearby cl... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Taos Area : Questa Dome
By: George Perkins When: Jan 24, 2017

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Comments:
Skeeter aka richard wrote:
Are you allowed to place pins in this area
Yes, but they aren't needed or useful on established routes here.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Chip Tower : Stuffing Nuts (5.9 C2 R)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 31, 2016

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Comments: Here's what Josh S. and I experienced on Chip Tower last week, climbing the route in "mostly free climbing mode" with no aid gear. (Mostly similar to that described in Mike A's trip report from 11 years ago, linked above.)
  • Pitch 1: A little chossy, but what did you expect?
  • Pitch 2: Splitter 5.11 (or C1) mostly hands and thin hands up to the roof (great climbing but still needs to clean up). When the crack thins, do 2 short...
 more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Hurt Me Not (5.12a)
By: George Perkins When: Dec 17, 2016

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Comments: The FA, as listed in the old book, is "Gramont ?". He died in 1998.


Location: New Mexico : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Photo
By: George Perkins When: Dec 16, 2016

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Comments: Aaron, I think you've got "Voyage of the Beagle" & "Hominid" switched?


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : Mitchell Trail Area : The Back Rocks
By: George Perkins When: Nov 27, 2016

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Comments: Hi Brett,
There is a route list to this area in an article Cam Burns wrote in the early 90s. Cam posts on MP as Camster (Rhymes with Hamster). It has a photo/topo, but my copy is too darkened to make good use of the photo, but I've uploaded it anyway (If someone puts up a cleaner one, or complains about copyright stuff, I'll take it down). Norbert Ensslin or some others in the LA Mountaineers probably also has a version.

Lighthouse Tower is obvious when you'... more >>


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Days of Future Passed (5.10b PG13)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: Recommend a #4 (or 2 of these for a 5.8/5.9 leader) on p2.

On the raps, if rapping the face itself back to the start:
Note the Too Fast topo has a couple minor errors which caused us some confusion. From the p3 ledge, it is ~100' to the 2 bolt anchor atop Days p2. It is ~130' to the p2 anchor on Magnas Veritas (our single 70m didn't reach on that rappel), so use 2 ropes f... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Southern Box areas : Major Wall : Buttress Fly (5.10a)
By: George Perkins When: Nov 13, 2016

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Comments: The proper, original route may have been 2 bolts + gear, but if you don't have gear it's not unreasonable to finish on either climb to the left or the right at the top now.


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: My head/helmet got stuck in the slot near the top and I wasn't persistent enough to figure out how to squeeze through- but climbing on the featured outside wasn't too bad. I was somewhat runout above my #5 (didn't have a #6), but may have missed TCU placements (I didn't place any tiny cams on the whole climb).
The loose rock wasn't too bad, though not as clean as the more popular clim... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Moondog (5.9)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 30, 2016

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Comments: Though not especially incredible, this is a cleaner way to get to the alcove and the next tier than p1 of Full Monty.


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : Pumping Harry (5.10+)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 26, 2016

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Comments: Harry: I'd be happy to update this page with the real name if you let me know what it is. I didn't add the cutesy name posted above, btw, but "unknown" isn't that great a name either. I don't have any qualms about a "real name" being used, even if not from the FA.


Location: New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : 45° Boulder : Xena: Warrior Princess (5.10d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 5, 2016

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Comments: Someone moved the 2nd bolt to a better location in the last few weeks; the clip is no longer weird.


Location: New Mexico
By: George Perkins When: Aug 27, 2016

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Comments:
d. hall wrote:
Just moved to Albuquerque from baltimore. Wondering what would be a good climbing guide book to pick up. Is the Falcon guide inclusive and up to date enough?
Yes, Falcon's Rock Climbing: NM is the best first option for an ABQ-based climber. Other guides (especially Jemez Rock; and maybe Sandia Rock if you like trad; and Taos Rock- though a bit farther away) cover some of the areas you&@POUN... more >>


Location: New Mexico : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: George Perkins When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'll delete this. I... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock
By: George Perkins When: Jul 22, 2016

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Comments: As I've been looking for mountain climbs to do recently, I'll suggest this page would be a bit more user-friendly with a bit more re-organization of sub-areas. I'll suggest the below as a start, similar to how its done in the 14er guides, but keeping individual Front Range areas separated.

1) Tenmile Range
----all currently listed areas
----Fletcher Peak to Atlantic Peak
----Pacific Peak
----Quandary Peak
2) Sawatch Range (needs a new... more >>


Location: Colorado : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Needles : Jagged Mountain : Normal Route (5.2)
By: George Perkins When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Admittedly at risk of sandbagging someone with this, but anyway...

If you're wondering whether you should bring a rope and climbing gear, climbing shoes, etc., IMO if you climb 5.6 confidently, you ought to be okay without all that stuff. The cruxes are short (~20' at most) and IMO are reasonable to solo, up and down, for most dedicated, in shape, "rock climbers", assuming it's dry. For a comparison, I w... more >>


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