Comments: A very nice climb when combined with Wounded Knee to top out. The pro is really good the whole way with small stuff. I have only done the original finish once, a million years ago, on the dull end and I remember my friend Andy Burnham, who would lead anything, commenting that it was pretty dicey. It certainly seemed he had done a load of hard moves before he got anything in.
Comments: I did this years ago with Derek Hersey and Jon Grayson and none of us thought it was harder than 10+ (c/d). A small TCU can be used under a little overlap to make it a bit less 'spicy'. It's a little heretical being this close to P1 of the NE, but the climbing is nice.
Comments: Small RPs protect the first pitch quite well, the Crack-'n-up thing should be put to rest. Carry 2x #3 RPs and a #2 and some other really small wireds and you will be fine. The second pitch is among my favorites in the area.