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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 576
Total Points: 1,225

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



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George Bracksieck

 
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All 624 | Routes 69 | Areas 8 | Photos 84 | Page Improvements | Comments 275 | Posts 117 | Stars 66 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Scruffy Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: On the right side of this complex outcrop are three bolted lines. You can see the first three bolts of the leftmost route and the first three bolts of the middle route from the starting ledge, which is an easy scramble above the ground, a short distance from the creek.

The leftmost route has about nine bolts and is about 92 feet long, ending at Mussy hooks. Above the third bolt and the bulge, place a #2 Friend in the crack. The climbing up to and over the bulge was continuously strenuous (5.9).... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Scarpa Pizzo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: I just found this comment on the Piz Badille page; perhaps it refers to this rock outcrop:

By tbol
From: Front Range, CO.
Aug 3, 2011
Just finished up an old project with EVD close to the Pizba. This place is awesome because there is sense of solitude, potential, and albeit roadside, adventure. The route we finished had a name that would be appropriate for Bernard's book, 'Man's best friend.' Although I wanted to call it 'Guardians of the Ass Fortress.' Maybe that could ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Scarpa Pizzo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We explored this cliff, because I wasn't aware of previous documentation and because it offered shade on hot days (June 11 and 18).


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Scarpa Pizzo : SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Mike noticed this line on June 11, and we climbed it on June 18. The first pitch looked improbable and dirty. The third pitch begins near the right end of a big wide ledge and climbs a series of left-facing dihedrals, jogging left to reach each successive one. Ross led p.1 and 3. Mike led p.2.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Scarpa Pizzo : Unknown Right Crack (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We climbed this on June 11 and found lots of lichen. I think it's 10a (although this was my second pitch since my March hardware removal and hip replacement).

Ross did a bold onsight of the often-too-thin-to-see crack. It opens to hand size in only a couple of short sections. I toproped it.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... : Scarpa Pizzo : Unknown Right Arete (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We climbed this on June 11. Ross onsighted it. I think this is 5.10 in a few places. Lots of lichen and moss made it slippery. This was my first pitch since my March hardware removal and hip replacement, and I struggled on toprope.


Location: Colorado : Morrison/Evergreen : Juniper Pass : Main Slab : Unknown 5 (5.12-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jun 25, 2017

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Comments: This pitch is 100 feet long and has 15 clips. On toprope, I avoided the first half on the left, following a left-angling seam. Traversing right, to the midway anchor, was the crux of this variation (5.9+). Above, the rock steepened into an enjoyable, slightly overhanging jug haul, protected by bolts next to cracks.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Three Spires : The Patriot (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: Dale Ralphs took me and Dottie Cross to this route on 9/17/06. He had already established the route and used my new rope to rap from the top and do some maintenance, while Dottie and I climbed nearby routes, including Cleft Palace and a route named "Back from Iraq" (5.8).


Location: Colorado : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : Columbus Day in America (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: Hi Drew —

I'm not upset. I'm just poking fun at you. I'm also satirizing the mindset that many have displayed over the decades, when claiming first ascents.

You have a keen eye for finding previously unclimbed rock. For example, you established almost all of the routes on this rock.

However, I can think of one route that might have SEEMED like unclimbed rock. You claimed an FA on a route on the Fourth Elephant Buttress in Bocan.... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag East : Cougar in Heat (5.10+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 4, 2017

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced. Excellent pitch.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Mission Obscurity (5.7+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: I agree that it was a dumb name. Hope you like the new name.


Location: Colorado : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Dogs of Doom (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: I think DoD is 5.10 and typical example of the sandbag ratings that have been perpetuated for many of the older "moderate" routes around Durango. I think that most of the Durango .10s and .11s that I've been able to do aren't sandbags and are generally rated consistently with climbs in other areas.

About ten years ago, neither Clark Corey, who is relatively tall, nor I could get off the ground on DoD. At the time, Clark was ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : LA Woman? (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: The first third is now protected by Prow Hugger's bolts, which I think is good, because the rock is dirty, fragile, and otherwise poorly protected. LAW then moves leftish into a short, clean, right-leaning handcrack, after which the climbing deteriorates into loose groveling in the big dihedral. This route (LAW) feels no harder than 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Tons of Fun (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: This route lies between Prow Hugger and Wildflower, to the right of a steep gully. To call this a beginner's route is ridiculous — it is a full-value 5.9, requiring jamming, liebacking, stemming, and underclinging. It is definitely fun.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Alpinista Sista (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: FA: Dale Ralphs. He and I climbed this on 9/17/06, long after his FA. BTW Dale might have established other nearby routes.


Location: Idaho : South Idaho : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : L'il Buckeroo (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: FA: Dale Ralphs. He and I climbed this on 9/17/06, long after his FA. BTW Dale might have established other nearby routes.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Interstate 10 Crags : Hayfield Exit : The Black Wiener (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: After looking at the crumbling start and the funky Australian slip-on (and -off) hangers draped over what looked like threaded hex-headed bolts from a hardware store, I decided to enjoy the sunset from the ground.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Interstate 10 Crags : Hayfield Exit
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: From the Hayfield Exit, we drove east, paralleling the freeway along its south side, following a narrow, bumpy, sandy road that lies between two continuous rows of old telephone poles.

After about 2.3 miles, we turned right (south) on a faint road. I wouldn't call this a wash, although water has probably washed across those wide flats. We eventually crossed a crossroad and a line of giant modern high-voltage powerlines, which we would follow on the return. About 1.1 miles... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Description : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: In 1974, Paul Mattson and I did a three-pitch route up the slab/dome to the right of Tarryall Tower, beginning near the visible notch. We called our route Bony Fingers, after a Country Western song popular at the time, and rated it 5.8. We also climbed the original route on TT, which we also thought was 5.8.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: I just posted a comment under another pic that you have added to the TT page. It is the "Lost on the approach" pic. I also posted the same comment under the pic that shows the approach, posted on the Witters/Yeatts Crack page. I think that it is the same pic for which I made my 2012 comment.

Regarding THIS pic, I think that Bony Fingers climbed the rock visible behind TT's shoulder, instead of that slab in the upper right. I didn'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Witters-Yeatts Crack (5.8) : ... : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: In 1974, Paul Mattson and I did a three-pitch route up the slab/dome to the right of Tarryall Tower, beginning near the visible notch. We called our route Bony Fingers, after a Country Western song popular at the time, and rated it 5.8. We also climbed the original route on TT, which we also thought was 5.8.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Fire Sermon (5.10-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: On Jan 2, 1992, I led Teri Ebel up the first pitch of what is now this route, before traversing right, onto the Wasteland's second pitch. There were no in situ bolts or slings on what is now this route. Because of the lack of good pro, I thought this was 5.10.

I had overlooked the inobvious original start to the Wasteland. Because our late start, the long approach and short day, we rapped three times from the top of Wasteland's third pitch, using two ro... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: The Google map on this page locates Cougar Crag East. The beta pic at the top of this page shows only Cougar Crag East. Cougar Crag West lies west of the quarry.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West : The Whitewall Route (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This route begins about 20 feet right of Insecurity Never Wins at Cougar Crag EAST. To reach the two-bolt anchor on top, you may lead an easy fifth-class pitch to the left of the Whitewall Route, or just walk over from the top of INW.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West : Stahn Solo (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This may be the route that climbs the blank white slab about 30 feet left of Enter Slabman, at Cougar Crag EAST. It has a one-bolt rap/tr anchor. Walking to the top is exposed, but easy.


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