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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 611
Total Points: 1,305

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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Approach Trails = 4
Page Improvements = 3



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George Bracksieck

 
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All 701 | Routes 74 | Areas 8 | Approach Trails | Photos 89 | Page Improvements | Comments 294 | Posts 157 | Stars 72 | Ratings 7
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Main Wall > The Perception of Buzzy Fuz... (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 8, 2018

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Comments: Excellent 75-foot pitch! I was very happy to place a #4 C4 in the offwidth near the top. I placed my second #2 above, to protect the exit. I easily scrambled north and west down to the bolted anchor atop Trapeze. (Belay this, or don't slip!). Then I rapped.


Location: California > San Diego County > South San Diego County > El Cajon Mountain > The Toe > Swine Flu (5.9- PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 21, 2017

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Comments: I think that passing the white flake would be 5.7- in Joshua Tree. Starting about five meters to the right of the SF start, an undocumented route climbs to the same anchor atop pitch one. It is more difficult and has nine bolts.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs > Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up (5.9 C3)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: I'm visiting Durango now, which is jogging my memory about this climb. In the winter of '76-77, which was almost as dry as this one is (so far), I lived in a trailer on Florida Mesa and did construction work in town. I had my eye on this rock, which I knew nothing about. I had a hard time finding partners, so I brought Tim out from Boulder. A day or so after this climb, we did some undocumented climbs in the Hardscrabble Pass area, east of Westcliff. More later....


Location: Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: Esther's remains were repatriated to the cave — by the Hopi — along with her belongings.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs > Old, Bad, and Ugly Nail-up (5.9 C3)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: When I have access to a slide scanner, I'll post the few photos from our ascent.


Location: Colorado > Durango > Falls Creek Cliffs
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 11, 2017

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Comments: The outcrop that contains the two (now three) posted routes lies on what David Kozak calls the "Turtle Lake Wall" (p. 40 of his 1985 SOUTHWEST ROCK). It is composed of the Junction Creek Sandstone, as are the X Rock and East Animas climbing areas. He calls the band of Dakota Sandstone containing the Coyote's Tooth, up the hillside from the so-called Turtle Lake bouldering area, the "Chapman Lake Wall." Locals know that Chapman Lake and Turtle Lake are the same lake. Neither cliff band is anywher... more >>


Location: Colorado > Durango > East Animas > Bedrock > Wally World (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 4, 2017

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Comments: The starting flake has fallen, leaving a dust-coated stemming problem up to an overhang. A #1 Camalot can be placed at the lip. Turning the lip is the now the crux (5.10). Above, the so-called handcrack continues for a few feet, then it widens to fist, then offwidth.

Darren did a stellar job leading this burly climb. Overall, he placed one #1, one #2, one #3, three #4s, and one #5. Left of the the sharp, right-protruding flake at the top, he placed a 3/4-inch Mastercam. A thin wire may fit t... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Fern Canyon > ... > Galactic Warrior (5.8-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 24, 2017

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Comments: Today, Jim Desrosiers and I started from the ground, directly below the main pitch, which was unidentified at the time. This direct start was about 5.7, was heavily lichened, and had some very fragile rock. I placed medium to large Stoppers and green,red, and yellow C3s, among other things.

The climbing flowed into the main pitch, which was overhanging and leaned to the right, with poor feet on the right wall (excellent, varied, strenuous, 5.9-). At one point, I was happy to blindly slap in ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > East Ironing Board > Crackin' Up (5.6 R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: At the beginning, you can start with the right crack, or cross ten feet of slab to engage the left crack, which I did. The cracks converge about 30 feet up.

Protect where you can, which is not often. Lots of pine needles must be brushed off of holds and out of gear placements. The first tree makes a good belay anchor and can be reached in 190-195 feet. Along the way, I wedged a good five-inch Tube Chock in the vicinity of a #6 Cam placement. I would like to have brought a second #5 Cam.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > West Ironing Board > ... > Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Seams Like a Crack climbs the thin "crack" to the right of the chimney, continuing 40 feet up the slab above the end of the crack, then traversing left to the top of the chimney.


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > West Ironing Board > I Lichen Chimneys (5.4 R)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 21, 2017

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Comments: Having just done the thin "crack" to the right, I can't see how this chimney is longer than 200 feet.


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > South Fork of St. Vrain Can... > Stray Dog > Stray Dog (5.8 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 12, 2017

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Comments: I think that getting to and past the first bolt is harder than 5.8. I think that the left start is 5.8. Two other routes can be toproped from the same anchor: More Left climbs to a grungy bulge and underclings strenuously to the right with feet on slippery lichen (5.9+); Leftmost climbs a nice short hand rack, which thins and ends in a funky water groove (5.8-).


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Blob Rock Area > East Blob > ... > A Hike for Y2K (5.11c)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 11, 2017

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Comments: Using my partner's 60m rope, we toproped this route from the pair of cold-shuts that are about 25 feet above the ground. We didn't have much extra rope. Therefore, this route is about 120 feet long.


Location: Colorado > Backyard Miracle
By: George Bracksieck When: Oct 9, 2017

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Comments: Went there yesterday. Beautiful, sweeping views. Most, if not all, of the rock was burned to a crisp when the fire roared through, in the mid-nineties. All of the lichen was vaporized. The rock is composed of the Silver Plume granite, which also composes the South St Vrain, Lumpy Ridge, and The Diamond. Here its surface is grainy and sometimes crumbly, so I applaud the use of half-inch bolts. All of the routes on RaS were intelligently bolted, although most of Best Bottom and Raspberry Crack cou... more >>


Location: Colorado > Ouray vicinity (rock) > Waterfall Wall > A Fistful of Awesome (5.10)
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 23, 2017

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Comments: After traversing upstream on Sidewalk Ledge, we didn't notice a sling on a small pine. When the ledge ended, we turned right and traversed to skier's right, across the exposed slab, to reach easier, less-exposed slab/gully. Then we scrambled all the way down the Class-4 ramp/gully. Tedious! You could die!


Location: Colorado > Ouray vicinity (rock) > Waterfall Wall
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 23, 2017

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Comments: After crossing the Tyrolean and scrambling up the gully to said giant conifer, leave your packs, and traverse right along an exposed dirt ledge to reach a rappel anchor (two bolts with links). This rap is 45m, not 35m, although scrambling to the right in the slippery wet grass at the bottom may allow a rap shorter than 45m. Unless the creekflow is low, expect to be sprayed by the falls. Fixing a 45m rope to the anchor would allow an escape, using prussiks or ascenders, back to the giant conifer,... more >>


Location: Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 23, 2017

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Comments: Parking for Cenotaph Spire is the same as for Cenotaph: at 12.3 miles. The outcrops are adjacent.


Location: Colorado > Buena Vista > The Leaning Wall > Columbus Day in America (5.6) > Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Aug 10, 2017

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Comments: That doesn't surprise me. That's why I put a question mark for the FA entry, and that goes along with the theme of the name I gave it. That Drew didn't claim it was significant to me; perhaps other routes on this rock were also climbed before the claimed FA.


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo > ... > Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 29, 2017

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Comments: Didn't you clip a fixed pin in the small overlap above and left of your left hand?


Location: Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Boulder Canyon - Ice > Scruffy Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 13, 2017

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Comments: On the right side of this complex outcrop are three bolted lines. You can see the first three bolts of the leftmost route and the first three bolts of the middle route from the starting ledge, which is an easy scramble above the ground, a short distance from the creek.

The leftmost route has about nine bolts and is about 92 feet long, ending at Mussy hooks. Above the third bolt and the bulge, place a #2 Friend in the crack. The climbing up to and over the bulge was continuously strenuous (5.9).... more >>


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: I just found this comment on the Piz Badille page; perhaps it refers to this rock outcrop:

By tbol
From: Front Range, CO.
Aug 3, 2011
Just finished up an old project with EVD close to the Pizba. This place is awesome because there is sense of solitude, potential, and albeit roadside, adventure. The route we finished had a name that would be appropriate for Bernard's book, 'Man's best friend.' Although I wanted to call it 'Guardians of the Ass Fortress.' Maybe that could ... more >>


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We explored this cliff because I wasn't aware of previous documentation and because it offered shade on hot days (June 11 and 18).


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo > SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky (5.9 PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: Mike noticed this line on June 11, and we climbed it on June 18. The first pitch looked improbable and dirty. The third pitch begins near the right end of a big wide ledge and climbs a series of left-facing dihedrals, jogging left to reach each successive one. Ross led p.1 and 3. Mike led p.2.


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo > Unknown Right Crack (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We climbed this on June 11 and found lots of lichen. I think it's 10a (although this was my second pitch since my March hardware removal and hip replacement).

Ross did a bold onsight of the often-too-thin-to-see crack. It opens to hand size in only a couple of short sections. I toproped it.


Location: Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of St. Vrain Ca... > Scarpa Pizzo > Unknown Right Arete (5.9+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jul 12, 2017

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Comments: We climbed this on June 11. Ross onsighted it. I think this is 5.10 in a few places. Lots of lichen and moss made it slippery. This was my first pitch since my March hardware removal and hip replacement, and I struggled on toprope.


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