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Member Since: Oct 4, 2008
Last Visit: 12 hours ago
Contact George Bracksieck

Point Rank: # 610
Total Points: 1,125

10 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has George Bracksieck been climbing?










George Bracksieck

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 598 | Routes 65 | Areas 7 | Photos 75 | Page Improvements | Comments 268 | Posts 114 | Stars 64 | Ratings 5
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : East Sector : Three Spires : The Patriot (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Apr 16, 2017

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Comments: Dale Ralphs took me and Dottie Cross to this route on 9/17/06. He had already established the route and used my new rope to rap from the top and do some maintenance, while Dottie and I climbed nearby routes, including Cleft Palace and a route named "Back from Iraq" (5.8).


Location: Colorado : Buena Vista : The Leaning Wall : Columbus Day in America (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Mar 4, 2017

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Comments: Hi Drew —

I'm not upset. I'm just poking fun at you. I'm also satirizing the mindset that many have displayed over the decades, when claiming first ascents.

You have a keen eye for finding previously unclimbed rock. For example, you established almost all of the routes on this rock.

However, I can think of one route that might have SEEMED like unclimbed rock. You claimed an FA on a route on the Fourth Elephant Buttress in Bocan.... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag East : Cougar in Heat (5.10+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Feb 4, 2017

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Comments: The bolt has been replaced. Excellent pitch.


Location: California : San Diego County : South San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Mission Obscurity (5.7+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: I agree that it was a dumb name. Hope you like the new name.


Location: Colorado : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Dogs of Doom (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: I think DoD is 5.10 and typical example of the sandbag ratings that have been perpetuated for many of the older "moderate" routes around Durango. I think that most of the Durango .10s and .11s that I've been able to do aren't sandbags and are generally rated consistently with climbs in other areas.

About ten years ago, neither Clark Corey, who is relatively tall, nor I could get off the ground on DoD. At the time, Clark was ... more >>


Location: Colorado : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : LA Woman? (5.10-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: The first third is now protected by Prow Hugger's bolts, which I think is good, because the rock is dirty, fragile, and otherwise poorly protected. LAW then moves leftish into a short, clean, right-leaning handcrack, after which the climbing deteriorates into loose groveling in the big dihedral. This route (LAW) feels no harder than 5.9.


Location: Colorado : Durango : Lemon Reservoir : West Side : Tons of Fun (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 16, 2017

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Comments: This route lies between Prow Hugger and Wildflower, to the right of a steep gully. To call this a beginner's route is ridiculous — it is a full-value 5.9, requiring jamming, liebacking, stemming, and underclinging. It is definitely fun.


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : Alpinista Sista (5.9)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: FA: Dale Ralphs. He and I climbed this on 9/17/06, long after his FA. BTW Dale might have established other nearby routes.


Location: Idaho : Castle Rocks : South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar : L'il Buckeroo (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 15, 2017

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Comments: FA: Dale Ralphs. He and I climbed this on 9/17/06, long after his FA. BTW Dale might have established other nearby routes.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Interstate 10 Crags : Hayfield Exit : The Black Wiener (5.8)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: After looking at the crumbling start and the funky Australian slip-on (and -off) hangers draped over what looked like threaded hex-headed bolts from a hardware store, I decided to enjoy the sunset from the ground.


Location: California : Joshua Tree National Park : Interstate 10 Crags : Hayfield Exit
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 14, 2017

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Comments: From the Hayfield Exit, we drove east, paralleling the freeway along its south side, following a narrow, bumpy, sandy road that lies between two continuous rows of old telephone poles.

After about 2.3 miles, we turned right (south) on a faint road. I wouldn't call this a wash, although water has probably washed across those wide flats. We eventually crossed a crossroad and a line of giant modern high-voltage powerlines, which we would follow on the return. About 1.1 miles... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Description : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: In 1974, Paul Mattson and I did a three-pitch route up the slab/dome to the right of Tarryall Tower, beginning near the visible notch. We called our route Bony Fingers, after a Country Western song popular at the time, and rated it 5.8. We also climbed the original route on TT, which we also thought was 5.8.


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: I just posted a comment under another pic that you have added to the TT page. It is the "Lost on the approach" pic. I also posted the same comment under the pic that shows the approach, posted on the Witters/Yeatts Crack page. I think that it is the same pic for which I made my 2012 comment.

Regarding THIS pic, I think that Bony Fingers climbed the rock visible behind TT's shoulder, instead of that slab in the upper right. I didn'@SEMIC... more >>


Location: Colorado : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Tarryall Tower : Witters-Yeatts Crack (5.8) : ... : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: In 1974, Paul Mattson and I did a three-pitch route up the slab/dome to the right of Tarryall Tower, beginning near the visible notch. We called our route Bony Fingers, after a Country Western song popular at the time, and rated it 5.8. We also climbed the original route on TT, which we also thought was 5.8.


Location: Arizona : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : The Wasteland : The Fire Sermon (5.10-)
By: George Bracksieck When: Jan 10, 2017

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Comments: On Jan 2, 1992, I led Teri Ebel up the first pitch of what is now this route, before traversing right, onto the Wasteland's second pitch. There were no in situ bolts or slings on what is now this route. Because of the lack of good pro, I thought this was 5.10.

I had overlooked the inobvious original start to the Wasteland. Because our late start, the long approach and short day, we rapped three times from the top of Wasteland's third pitch, using two ro... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: The Google map on this page locates Cougar Crag East. The beta pic at the top of this page shows only Cougar Crag East. Cougar Crag West lies west of the quarry.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West : The Whitewall Route (5.8+)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This route begins about 20 feet right of Insecurity Never Wins at Cougar Crag EAST. To reach the two-bolt anchor on top, you may lead an easy fifth-class pitch to the left of the Whitewall Route, or just walk over from the top of INW.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West : Stahn Solo (5.6)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This may be the route that climbs the blank white slab about 30 feet left of Enter Slabman, at Cougar Crag EAST. It has a one-bolt rap/tr anchor. Walking to the top is exposed, but easy.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West : Enter Slabman (5.7)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 27, 2016

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Comments: This route is on the first slab that you encounter win you "Turn right on the approach " at Cougar Crag EAST. It has a two-bolt rap anchor, which is easy to reach via an exposed, dirty scramble.


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Cougar Crag West
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: Cougar Crag West lies across the valley from Cougar Crag East. The quarry operation occupies the valley in between. As Zackary states, the approach to CCW begins west of the quarry gate.

The OP's statement on this page ("Turn left on the approach.") is misleading. If you are hiking up to Insecurity Never Wins, on the left side of CCE, you could take the left turn. If you are hiking up to Cougar in Heat and Stranger Danger, you could take the r... more >>


Location: California : San Diego County : North San Diego County : Cougar Crag : Photo
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 26, 2016

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Comments: This photo shows Cougar Crag East. Cougar Crag West isn't visible in this photo. It lies below the portion of the hillside that is visible in the upper left of this photo. From CCE, CCW can be seen above other side of the valley that contains the quarry.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Monkey Skull : Sunshine Dihedral (5.10b)
By: George Bracksieck When: Dec 6, 2016

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Comments: In 1981, Mike Endicott led me up this. There were no bolts or adjacent routes, but the old fixed pin was there. I recall reading/hearing (at sometime since) that Layton Kor placed that pin.

We continued up what is now known as "Alvino's Variation," which I led. Gillett's guidebook says that Alvino and partner did the FA in 1993. It was probably climbed by Kor and/or others long before 1993, because this is the most obvious... more >>


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Throne : Magnum P.I. (5.9+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Nov 1, 2016

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Comments: Clever route name. However, we saw zero poison ivy all day. Perhaps the 2013 flood eliminated it from the river bank and the gully. We avoided the gully by mostly following the ridge to its right, as suggested by Gillett's guidebook and MP.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Throne : Petticoat (5.10a)
By: George Bracksieck When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: The halfway mark on my 70m rope had passed through my belay device by the time Ross reached the two-bolt anchor. Sufficient rope lay on the ground when I rapped. Cams and stoppers thinner than 3/4 inches were placed, along with gear wider than 3/4 inches.


Location: Colorado : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Throne : Magnum P.I. (5.9+ PG13)
By: George Bracksieck When: Oct 31, 2016

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Comments: Yesterday, Ross led me up Magnum PI, climbing variations to the second and third pitches. He finished the first pitch just a meter or two right of an old bolt and belayed a meter or more higher, on the right, from a bombproof sling around a solid block. This block is four or five meters above the pair of modern bolts atop Petticoat. This pitch was about 120 feet long.

This same block is where Milt Strickler belayed me and a guy named Kent up said first pitch, after Milt led it, on Sept. 19, 197... more >>


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