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Member Since: Feb 8, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact geoff georges

Point Rank: # 141
Total Points: 3,460

9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3



Where has geoff georges been climbing?










Contributions


All 3525 | Routes 261 | Areas 17 | Photos 116 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 486 | Posts 50 | Stars 1430 | Ratings 1160
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Utah : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge : Capitol Gorgeous (5.10)
By: geoff georges When: 6 days ago

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Comments: we were way right, very near where it wraps around to south side. I will get your book for next time.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : One Scoop with Delicious Di... (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Jan 9, 2017

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Comments: Anders, I was just checking the Campbell book and it sure looks mostly the same. There must have been an outcry of WTF when Robin renamed that route?


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Malamute : ... : Photo
By: geoff georges When: Jan 5, 2017

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Comments: the confusion comes from Marcs book calling this " grub street complex" and describing this pitch of Rosebud as part of Grub steet complex- his idea of the classic link up.


Location: Utah : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge
By: geoff georges When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: I climbed something almost directly ( little west) across the way from the Classic hand crack on the north side of the wash, south face. A plaque said something about LA. Maybe 10a/b. dirty hand crack to OW pod, back to hands and fingers, scary block at top and bolted anchor. I replaced the ancient sling with a orange cord 10/2016. gotta love the feeling of doing a first ascent at the creek.


Location: Utah : Capitol Reef National Park : Capitol Gorge : Capitol Gorgeous (5.10)
By: geoff georges When: Nov 4, 2016

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Comments: we thought we were climbing this , but the picture shows we were way off- did a double crack in right facing corner, anchor below a roof with OW. It was closer to the south face corner. Information is hard to come by for CRNP.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: ground fall would be from like 40' up if you slipped before reaching the 2nd bolt, it is easier there but still run-out. You could place gear before the 1st bolt, also the bolts are ancient.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Life Without Sex (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: this is the route with what I call the trailer hitch bolt as the 2nd or 3rd bolt after the fun roof move, and then 20' run-out on easy slab ( can get a .5 camalot mid way) then the crux comes up high with a sequency move either making it really hard or just hard. This also has the area rap station.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Testosterone Test (5.11d)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: the bolts, hangers and anchor all need replacement on this. and yes a #4 is nice in the horizontal slot.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Impotence (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: you can get a cam in on the traverse and like said above a .5 or .75 work up top.


Location: Idaho : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : The Big Easy (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: yes, that is it, either do chimney at 5.6 or 5.9 fingers top out on the left. Both have good gear options for anchors. One would belay up on the 5.9, but a easy TR can be set on the top of the chimney.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Man Eater Tower : The Man Eater (5.10+ A0+ PG13)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: for me pitch one could be 11a, but maybe it is height dependent, I was able to squirm up to the roof past a tiny cam and then do some wide stemming at the roof to gain good finger crack above. The lower portion is sustained 5.10 on some hard to place gear. 2nd pitch has some sandy scary rock, but it improves mid way and is great up higher- 10a. pitch 4 was more like 5.8 not 5.9.


Location: Utah : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Spaceshot (5.7 C2)
By: geoff georges When: Oct 29, 2016

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Comments: anyone know what the story is with the fixed faded green rope on pitch four? another over to the side near base- someone working on route to the left, assortment of gear too. We were up there mid Oct.2016.


Location: Utah : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: geoff georges When: Sep 23, 2016

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Comments: that is sad, nice artwork.I remember climbing it before and after seeing that plaque, only thought that someone would steal it, sad that someone broke it.


Location: Washington : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend North : Dancing Bear (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: I entered it as 10b because that was the rating given by the first ascent. For some reason all the routes on this face are really hard for their given ratings when compared to the West Bend routes and Royal Columns. But I think it is fair, most ratings are soft in Wa., we just need to humble ourselves, or get better. But I did add that I think it is 10+.
I don't know what Ed intended with the grade, but whatever my body parts can reach are in for me on outdoor routes, there a... more >>


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Rattletale (5.10b)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: there is no longer a #4 in 3rd pitch, but as a whole the route is cleaner as of Sept. 2016


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Steel Pulse (5.10c)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: cleaned 1st pitch labor day weekend 2016.


Location: Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : The Nose, of Jello Tower (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: first ascent: Fred and Don Wilde, 1950. It is listed incorrectly in Kramar's book. Ed Cooper confirms this as he was not yet climbing in 50 or 52.
Beckey also says they placed 2 bolts on the first ascent, they are long gone. At the lower crux you can place a good cam, make some very hard moves and then it is really strenuous to quickly jam a small cam or nut in, then it is much easier the rest of the way with one more short crux after the roof.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Club Paradiso / The Actual ... : Trappline (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 31, 2016

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Comments: the bolting and grade may be different then other X38 climbs because this wall was the first bolted out there.


Location: Washington : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : Liberty Bell : Serpentine Crack (5.11)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 25, 2016

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Comments: even with the fixed #3 it would be nice to have 3) #3 for this crux overhanging crack. Agreed that 1) #4 is good at the roof. There is not much small gear on this route. best to double up on #.5 - #2, with 3) #3. There are some small cam and nut options.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Wild Turkey (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 24, 2016

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Comments: Greg, yeah it just makes sense to me that you would have continued up the same crack, it is good and protects well, actually the easiest part of the climb- don't know why McClain gives it a 11b. For me the climb is at least 11a overall.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Lookout Point Area : ... : Law and Order (5.10a)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: I would say that one needs to lead these cracks with a nut tool to clean for placements. I have completely cleaned this section like 3 times, it just fills with needles. there are many blue-green Alien placements there, no need for a bolt. Also I think the anchor is fine, not every route has to have a 60 or 70m rap.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : Skykomish Valley : Index : Middle Town Walls : Mid Wall
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Slim, no, the fixed rope left of Winky is mine, there is a steep narrow gully right of Winky that has or had a fixed rope.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Deception Crags & ... : Substation : You're only nice to me when... (5.10d)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: the way Burdo wrote it, seems appropriate since everything X38 is kinda messed up.


Location: Washington : Central-West Cascades & Sea... : North Bend & Vicinity : Exit 38: Far Side : Winter Block : Bamboozled (5.10+)
By: geoff georges When: Aug 16, 2016

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Comments: Serge, looks like you get 2nd ascent.


Location: North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : The Black Book (5.11a)
By: geoff georges When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Description
I first climbed this by mistake, as it is on the ledge near Bullet heads east and looked good. Harder then it looks from below. Moving left and sticking fingers is a crux but even harder above that is about 2/3 way up another thin bit was the crux for me.

Location
From left to right on Bullethead ledge:
1) Mystery route ( maybe 10a, worth doing)
2) Bullet heads east 10b/c
3) Rainy Day Woman- splits off start of BHE, 11a/b
4) Black Book
5) Triptoe, 5.7

Protecti... more >>


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